THE CHINA MAIL, – SATURDAY, JULY 30, -1960.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
London Winter fashion
WHILE
most houses have kept skirts of short dresses slim oven for Evening
Hartnell
has featured a number of short, bell-skirted dresses for a feminine look after Eve, including several in black.
In a sensational compromise between a shoit and long evening dress, he gave a figure- moulding, short strapless, sheath of royal blue chiffon huge buik- terfly wings of matching 'taffeta, the wings spread out below the waist en fell into a train at the back.
There
were echoes of the 1930's in some of Hartnell's long evening dresses.
Lavish
Fur, especially fox, was used Javishly for coatlining and cal-
rs at this house.
Back and vivid purple were favourite evening colours but brown and grey were also used, while day-time favourites
alive and included
silver
greens und khaki.
Michael Sherard based his collection on a curve something
Like the
music.
bans def sign
Coats, Jackets and were slightly convex
in
dresses, at the back and curved forward while the front was slightly concave below a high bustline.
Colours here were mainly sombre with a lot of black and brown-China Mail Special,
was
born
during the summer
A new, plain felt hat from the Walmar collection that rises high, but stays snugly in place on the head,
Jacques Cousty is about to glamourise, using his ability as an artist, not just a cutter of hair.
THE
BREKENO
GAMBOLS.
THEY'RE HOLDING A PARTY-
IN THE NEXT ROOM GEORGE
180 AND STOP THEM
DID YOU
TELL THEM WE CAN'T SLEEP
YES
Paris
HE following are
THEME
the
three influences that were most discussed in Paris as the eventual winning `candidates:
The neo-romantic look per- sonified by Brigitte Bardot
A revival of the 1930 slyles with-blas cuts and soft clinging treatments.
Asiatic adaptations with smooth sheathe and caftans treated to split sening or doating panelą.
Fashion people here never
under-estimato the fashion power of film star Brigitte Bardot Her influence has revolutionised the styling of French ready to wear clothes in the past two years.
Betting was generally on soft and romantic clothes compared with the stapic square-shouldered school of fashion personified by Balenciaga and Givenchy
In the same feminine mood, people connected with the cou ture talked about a revival of the 1930s, inspired by the clinging and limp-looking clothes made famous by a ranking designer of that period Edward
heat
Molyneux, who retired from fneblom designing in 1950. The British captain was recently interviewed at his home on the French riviera and replied that he has no wish to make a fashion comeback. Inadvertantly his great influence in the 1940s may put his name in the head- lines among top ranking Paria designers again this sensor.
Molyneux's school of thought is the bias cub known as a trademark at the two houses of Gres and Jacques Grife. The latter designer topic over the famous "Molyneux premises at pumber 5 Rue Royale when the captain retired because of his falling eyesight;
The overall demand for soft and pliable fabrics confirms the 1930 trend, suggesting that last season's princess silhouette with iis stiff and rigidly lined inner construction will definitely be put
Madeleine de Kanch used trouser skirts very effectively in her ready to wear and cocktail clothes for autumn.
Paul Poiret, Paris designer of war one fame, first pre-world
women to high introduced
> trousers in 1912: styles
Chanel re- Schiaparelli and peated the innovation in 1955.
NEXT season's hats rise high, for the millinera are not taking
year, and are chopur
hairdo, even the bashiva look.
stylpe large enough to acc
The favourite fabric they are uning is velour, a smooth furry outlines of the Cossack hats. Prices are lower than the
for the millinery trade are determined to show us this year that we con
a hairdo and a hat, “
Smoothly brushed maluzine makes" a new, up-to-date ver- 'sion of the classic " "cloche hat, trimmed, with a band of peter. shom ribbon. Also by Walmar.
The Frenchman said "Madame,
for you, the bouffant !"
THE handsome young Frenchman said, "With her hair like that, Madame looks so severe, not half as pretty as she could look
I would like to euï (1,7
"
And 50 it happened, Madame (that's me) had her hair cut and styled by the Champion Hair Stylist of the World, 23-year-old Jacques Cousty.
Off came my long carefully purtured locks, which - were thrown most un-carefully onto the floor, and two hours later, I was presented to the world in the full glory of the "bouffant look" as it really should look.
In fact, it was so bouffant and airy-fairy, that all the way back
By Sylvia da Conta-Roque.
And the finished pro- duct! Better, N'est-ce- Pas?
to the office I was scared the which is the best style for her slightest breeze would what it shape of face"
away.
The hairstyle which hurt
It all started the night before Monsieur Cousty, consisted of a.
morning putting my hair through a complicated series of loops and turns, to the accomp paniment of a dozen hair-pins.
The hair-styling session went off smoothly, but it took an awful long time - from 10 am. to 2 pm. to be exact.
Reason being that Jacques had to divide his time between about 40 women, each as anxious. as I to sports creation by the World Champion Hair Stylist.
Possibly the youngest hair- styling expert in the worki Jacques uses no exaggerated mannerism's ar flamboyant gestures. He is normal, boyish and very nice....
He reached the top of his profusion last year when he was selected Champion Hair Stylist of the World Eroin among competitors from 15
He became Champion of Europe when he was 20, and Champion of France at 18.
at a cocktail party, when French roll, and a middle part- After what he describes E Jacques looked at me and said: ing with two "bangs" at either "e noimal childhood", Jacques "Pardon Madame, do you mind side. very much it I tell you some- thing?"
(1 muttered something about me being only too pleased.)
He frowned, and then said; "You must understand that consider hair styling an art, not 'just a way of maiding money, and when I see someone like you, wearing a hairstyla vilich does not suit her "personalite"
well, it hurta me!"
"If Madame would come to morrow I would gladly how her
spent two years training at a
He explained that I needed a beauty culture college. He then style which would surround my became a student of "the great face with hair, instead of one Pere Redolph" who taught which dragged it back in fact, him styling the "bouffast" style.
"Anyway, Madame is ruining her hair by twisting it like that, and even after I have styled it, it will take a long time to settle down."
At the mention of his cutting
He is now working at fa great Paris salon, but I do t want to mention the name." When he gets home from his present world tour, he thinks be might open his own saibo,
One thing about it, it's going
my hair, all I could think of to be rather expensive lf 1. have was that I would no longer have to go to Paris every time I to spend 15 minutes every went a new hair stylel
Barry Appleby
THEORISLEEPING
"MISS
FLORENCE
ISS Fashion" of 1961 will go to cocktail parties in a dress looking like a slip and in the morning she will wear miniature men's
Those are some of the streamlined 1960's designs shown here in the Pitti Palace by Enzo of Milan, a leading Italian designer.
The cocktail dress; Enzo has designed a skin-tight black sil sheath dreas which looks like a sip, complete with full decolele top and narrow straps. It is decorated with black "shoe-strings" suspended from the top of the dress.
The day dress: Enzo offers a suit with the miniature "tails" as a jacket. It is made of soft tweed, with a wide belt in con- trasting colour or printed pure silk. The skirt is straight and very short
For evening. Enso goes for the mermaid look with long, nar- row stranden, gowns in sea-green or white sain, flaring out, så uie calf with a silt in front and a train at the back,
Hats also had a "last word" look at the show, by Patrick de Barentzen, Italy's youngest designer, looked like a hair-dryer, It was a large cylindrical hat made of black gather, worn low over the forehead and went with a tweed suit and matching patent leather-collar and cuffs.
He also showed a coffee brown fur cape worn with a large version of the cossack hat in natural beaver.
Bone designer Roberto Capucsi won a round of applause at the Italian fashion show here when he showed a range of evening dresses featuring yards of net, ranging from rough and stiff fisher- men's neto to the finest veils.
„One particularly successful dress was toader of forest green saling Large mosquito-net shaped bolero was suspended over it, hanging loosely in folds, floor-length at the back and much shorter -in front..
Clouds of pale pastel chiffon figured in dressing-gown-like dinner dresses with uneven panels and deep, kimono sleeves cuffed with wide bands of dyed fox: far.
Capacci's cocktail dresses were straight chemises or bad saftly defined, beltless waists.
The main line running through the collection by the Fontane sisters of Bonnes » straight cut, wainless or low-waisted botiem, | and the melon' skirt, zohieved by a lowered, very full hipijas, which then abruptly narrows to a short, knee-reyesling hemline.
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I'D LIKE MY PHOTOGRAPH
ĮTAKEN. LIKE THAT
CARELESSLY LEANING ABANG
A TREE WITH THE BUN-
CARESSING MY CHEEKS
READY
GAS IS TOPS
From east of the sun...
west of the moon
where each tomorrow dawns .......
Pango
Peach
the new color creation
by
Revlon