THE CHINA MAIL, MONDAY, JUNE
WOMANSENSE
THE ARCHITECT
WHEN fashionable Society
OF FASHION
Victor Stiebel studied architecture at Cambridge,
but he found success moulding fabrics
and elegant, wad his mannequins are the essence of grace because they pose naturally.
Quality
These are the qualities that at tract the highest in the land to his salon; these are the qualities that draw praise about the clothes worn by Princess Mar- garet. They all possess a solt ness of line that is essentially feminine, and unmistakably the work of Victor. Stichel.
Although Stiebel designs for Princess Margaret and can run ber among his other clients the. Duchess of Gloucester, Lady Olivier (Vivien Leigh), and Katharine Hepburn, he respects. the confidence placed in him and steers questioners away from the subject of his clientele.
When he is not in his office or salon, Victor Stiebel often works in his house at Launceston Place, Kensington. A bachelor, he is devoted to his work and is always thinking of new ideas and new designs and has litte or no time for hobbles. The ex- ceptions, are his collection of Victorian china, and his. interest in the theatre and music.
Reconcile
London's haute couture salons all have two things in common they are sumptuously furnished women seek clothes and they wear an air af hushed combining colour and elegance they often turn crecy, Stiebel's salon is no ex- One's 'first ception to the rule, towards Cavendish Square, near London's fashionable impression on entering as of Oxford Street. For there, in a fine 18th century house," luxury. A great and elegant from the large they can find Victor Stiebel, who is probably the most staircase rises
to the old ball- reception hall brilliant colourist among London's principal couturiers. room which is now his main
Victor Stiebel has been heard, showroom. This is a fitting set to say that the designer's tune- In appearance, Victor Stiebel looks as prosperous ting for his collections, details of tion is "to foresee what women as a bank manager and as youthful and jolly as an which are guarded as closely as are going to want to wear be This room has a fore they know it themselves," undergraduate. His jovial, broad smile, and his laughter the Kremlin.
Adam but he claims to dislike his own Only occasionally are well known to those associated with his salon, fine blue and white
ceiling and floor-length windows, collections. Unaffected and sincere, he is a man who is happy in the draped in blue velvet curtains does he create a dress that he bellef that he is contributing something to the world of which are
fashion.
quarter
In London's fashion his business is now known offi- cally as "Victor Stiebel." Until recently he was "Victor Stiebel
surmounted by the does not "actively hate." His original carved, gilded Adam dislike for personal publicity pelmets. A deep blue carpet is even more marked, but this
all: is
to nearly The younger Stiebel might adds to the richness
couturiers. not have imagined his present surroundings, surroundings when, at the are
of seventeen, he came to Bri-
at Jacqmer," the latter being tain to study architecture at
Perfection
of the
common
He has also been known to lament the fact that he is not a famous writer. The reason for the house of which he was Jesus College, Cambridge. It All his models are initially this is that he does not class the Director of Couture. He then may well be, however, that his designed in cough sketch form, dress designing among also operated his own separate unerring sense of what is both new ideas for glittering evening greater arts ("Surely it's the last and exclusive salon in the same elegant and beautiful springs gowns, attractive coats coat form of creative work that building in Grosvenor Street, from his early studies
and-suit ensembles, day dresses exists"). Nevertheless, he has readable Mayfair.
often being written Stieber's creations reflect his or cocktail suits views as a man who does not sketched hurriedly with the aid blography of M. Reville, to like to see women with long of a pencil and a used envelope. whom he owes his early train- untidy hair, red nail varnish, Whatever it is, the model re- ing in the techniques of design- platform soles on shoes. or. eelves infinite care at each stage ing and whose teaching has His of assembly, Perfection is thus made him one of the great men indecd, anything artifical,
of fashion style makes for the feminine assured.
JACOBY BRIDGE
TODAY'S band is of little
interest to player who does not care about overtricks. South's three no-trump contract is ironclad against the sparte However the techni- opening. que that George Copple of Nashville, Tenn. used to make
•
CHILDREN'S
Hanid's Caterpillar
five-odd is a good example of A Race Between Hop-a-Long And Crawl-a-Long --
how the expert takes advantage
of every spot card.
Bast's queen of spades Jost to A heart to dum- George's, ace. my's jack knocked the ace out of the East hand and a spade re- turn put George in dummy The jack of clubs lead
WEST 40876
10832
+ KJ3
98
South
NORTH AKJ4 QJS + Q842 J32
EAST
Q53 A9
WAS
20
• 10875
4K754
SOUTH (D)
A102
VK744
• AG
AQ 100
Both vulnerable
West North East
1 N.T. Pozs 3 N.T. Pass - Pass Pasa
Opening lead-♣ B
covered by East's king and George noted
eight spot from West. The queen of clubs.picked up West's nine and George decided that West was not false-carding and that he had a finesse left against the seven spot.
He led his low diamond. West went right up with the king and
By MAX TRELL
11
very
CORNER
"A Grasshopper!" exclaimed Hanid joyfully.
Knari shook his head.
notice.
NARF, the Shadow Boy with
He started to laugh again but A the Turned-About Name, had
And caught
3 trained he covered his mouth with his Grasshopper to let him ride on hand so that Hanid wouldn't his back.
"Giddag, there, Hop-a-Long!" "It isn't a Grasshopper. It's Knart would say. And Hop-a- even better than a Grasshopper, Long, the Grasshopper, would I mean, you won't ever tall leap across the park over off. bushes, over high grass and
Fat caterpillar
Knarf trained a Grasshopper to let him ride on his back.
higher flowers, over Tailings Knari took his sister out to and fences, even over the heads the park to show her. There, of the people who went walking tied up alongside of Hop-a- along the paths through the Long, was a fat, yellow Cater Longs' back and let it plod lazily
Knarf had to hold on pillar. It was so fat, and so
round, and so lazy that it hard-around one of the signs that said
"Please Keep Of The Grass." by seemed able to move.
Fed him leavGE "You can call it Crawl-a- Long," said Knarf
park. tight!
And this time he really and truly burst out laughing.
Tied to stem And when the ride was over, and Hop-a-Long needed a rest, Kharf would tie him to a but- tercup stem with length of
Strange to say, Hanid didn't Spider's silk and leave him there until he returned later for an- seem the least bit displeased.
Knart looked at her with sur- other ride.
"Now
why don't you get prise.
"You mean, you like a silly something like. Hop-a-Long to ride on?" Knarf often asked his old slow fat thing like Crawl-
8-Long, Hanid?" he asked. sister Hanid.
Hanid's mysterious Hanid smiled. "One of these days," she said
"Why don't you calch another Grasshopper one for me?" Hanid would answer.
Caught something "All right," be announced to led a third spade. George won Hand later that day, "I have
The rest of the time Hanid spant feeding Crawl-a-Long nlee
fresh leaves.
THIS charming, youthful short evening dress is in very fine chiffon printed in a mottled design in tones of blue, white and black. A simple, draped sti àpless bodice tops the wide; bell-shaped skirt, which has a draped overlay sweeping down from the waist at the front to meet in a knot near the hem in the centre-back; by VICTOR-STIEBEL.
Medical observations of the
female sex
By W. W. BAUER, M. D.
ONE of my more cynical medical professors once de-
trout the middle of the men-
fimed woman as a constipated creature with a rual cycle. From this time on, the premenstrual tension may OCC", pain in her back.
It is
་
not necessary for the
LADY
Pige
LECK
* CHINA MAIL
horoscope
MONDAY, JUNE 6
AQUARIUS (January 21- February 19): A plan of yours is liable to misfire be- cause your partner's idos is exactly the opposite of your own.'
PISCES (February 20-March
20) Visitors from abroad are likely to announce their arrival during the week, and you will have to give them a good deal of your time.
| ARIES (March 21-April 19): Don't be alarmed over the non-appearance. of an invited guest. A satisfac- tory explanation will soon follow.
TAURUS (April 20-Maz 20): Before getting involved in a dispute, make sure you have all your facts right. GEMINI (May 21-June 21); If you are tempted to write
a challenging letter in a temper, let a day or two pass and approach the matter in
more con- ciliatory mood.
CANCER (June 22-July 21): A birthday celebration will bring you together with someone from whom you have been estranged for a long time.
LEO (July 22-August 21): You will be more likely to have your associate's full co-operation if you let him take the credit once in a while for a task well done.
VIRGO ~{ À u'gust. 22- September 22): In dealing with an official today, you will be able to convince him that your request is not un-. reasonable.
ILIBRA (September 23- October 22); Avoid getting too deeply involved in a friend's trouble. You will have to keep a clear head for some important business of your own. SCORPIO (October 23- November 21); Only by being prepared to give s new idea a fair trial will you be able to ascertain if it is workable without any additional investment. SAGITTARIUS (November 22-December 21): A visitor who is inclined to overstay his welcome ought to be told of your obligations in other directions. CAPRICORN (December 22- January 20) Try and avoid worrying over a mat- ter which has no basis in fact. Your imagination is running away with you.
Comment on women has ranged all the way from the half-gallant, half-satirical toast to the ladies: "We woman to understand the com- can't live with them, and we can't live without them," to plicated physiology of the pro-YOUR BIRTHDAY: If your
know that there is help for her Rudyard Kipling's most unchivalrous declaration about cess. It is enough for her to the limitations of woman versus the smoking pleasure in modern medical treatment to relieve much of the menstrual · discomfort. in a good cigar.
Women have been portrayed frult while they menstruate, be- as weak, vain, fickle, moody, as cause it will surely spoil." well as more deadly than the Until comparatively recent times male. They have been revered menstruating nurses were put And the result was that silly as mothers, sweethearts and off duty, or at least not pernit- old slow fat Crawl-a-Long the wives. They have personified ted in surgical rooms. Caterpillar, grew slower and the extremes of good and evil, fatter and older and looked Most of all, they have been much sillier than ever before.
"Bow much longer are you going to wait before you have a race with me?" Knart asked Hanid one afternoon at the be- ginning of summer. "And where
་་
"
velled in mystery. This is ex- plained by their dramatic func- ton of childbearing, and by the dispositional changes which ac- company the menstrual cycle.
Partial answer ·
Now, however, studies of the menstrual cycle, and broader observations of the whole rela- floriship of the endocrine glandia, have thrown new light upon sotne fortherly mysterious womany events. Why should
Moodiness, a state of the emo-
tons described by Dr Erie Hen-
About myths
some
into a "part-time witch," and when suddenly break out "In the fall of the But 'Knart didn't until, all to Knart with a mysterious look is Crawl-a-Long anyway? Did
by a woman herself with a simi- crimes of violence? What are of a sudden, one day early in in her eyes, "silly old slow fat he crawl away somewhere and as converting a
lar but less polite term, has long some of the causes of domestic the morning. Knari got a won- Crawl-a-Long is going to be get lost?"
minute he able to go faster and further
He's asleep
been the stock-in-trade of the discord, accidents to women in derful idea, The
"He went to steep," replied action writer. Only lately has autos and in industry? Why so thought of it he started to laugh. and higher and longer than your
the basis for so-called feminine much female illness and And the more he thought of it Grasshopper!" the harder he laughed.
But. Knarf just laughed and Hanki.
"To sleep!" Knari shouted.
absenteeism? laughed and laughed.
A partial answer seems to So for the next few weeks, And he laughed until his sides vagaries been understood.
have been found in a portion of while Knart was having fun hurt.
The monthly phenomenon the menstrual cycle which has leaping and springing all through Every day Knart would say the park, Hanid would only now to his sister
"Well, did he wake up yet?" known as the menses, which fol- attracted less attention than the and then climb on Crawl-a-
lows the lunar month more more or less spectacular phase And Hanid would say: "No, he's still sleeping. But closely than the calendar month, during which the loss of blood attention. Many ...” of has been surrounded by myths compels perhaps tomorrow he'll wake up and amerstitions since earliest women's menstrual difficulties And then we'll have our race, daya. The American Indians come not during the actual Knart."
At last the day came when exiled the menstruating woman menses, but before to this has Hainid ran up to Knart and to pecial "taboo" lodge. The been given the designation of
ancient Hebrews prescribed premenstrual tensio
in dummy, led a diamond to his caught something for you to ace; cashed his king of hearts; ride on,"
Now
led a heart to dummy's queen; and East showed out. George discarded his remaining heart on dummy's queen of dia- monde led a club; finessed dainst East's seven spot with the six and made Ave-odd for a up. duplicate score.
♥÷CARD Sense♣♦ |
West
The bidding has been.
North East Bouth Double Pass
You, Bouth, hold: 8542 VKJ32 4A 2016 ́4X9
do you do?
points" aid a good four card heart suit you want to invite further bidding from your part-
TODAY'S QUESTION Yinir partner zeblds to three po-trump. What do you do now? Answer "Tomorrow
Rupert and the Squire-2
Rupert is delighted to be asked to join in the game. *!! I'd love: Ln," he says Is Algy the bowler?
Then we'll watch Rasps and help if he finds things too difficult. But at the sight of the newcomer the Country Mouse becomes shy. Here, you, have
'a go." he says, pushing the dir Rupert ***The others have shown me what to do, and I'm still no good. Perhaps if I watch you batting I shall learn more. "Yes, that's a good idej," sayı Padry Pig. So Rupert agrees to try, and lacus Algy's first bali, "ALL RIGHTS RESERVED"
-said:
"He's swake! Come Look at Crawl-a-Lone now!"
som and extensive rites for It is not my purpose here to the return of the woman to recite a catalogue of symptoms association with her husband which might prove suggestive to Beautiful butterfly: and family after her menstrual the introspective, I do wish to These, standing on top of the period. A emphasise that the woman who buttercup, was Crawl-Long In New Guinea a fantastic finds herself: Irritable edgy,
smressonable and Only it wasn't a Caterpillar any myth held currency, in which depressed, more. It was now a beautiful the menstrual blood was regard suffe Butterfly with yellow wingsod as the blood of a celes
Knart and Hand held their lover murarred by they
was who seduced him--the - mer
Knari satvor Hop-a-Longs being wphiền s back while Hand rode on the Trang back of Crawl-a-Long Ondy, kte – ng didn't call him by that me any more. She called her But the Lerfly Beil-a-Long
Who won the race? All I can tell you is that/11 wasn't Koerfi
brief pain,
Ich has int
Kenwood
CHEF
does so much more than mixing!
birthday is this week you 'will find a symbol of good fortune in a gift of a travelling clock.
Tharar and be the john the Wyrnurned Chico, & dit, il mare,: Kanimod · Chat abe
brand là tha kilahta samost
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