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THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 15, 1959.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
The Hot News Here Is For Men!
by JILL BUTTERFIELD
FLORENCE, Tuesday, THE most exciting news from Florence, in the throes of its annual international fashion shows, comes from the one man here who is not showing women's clothes.
From a chubby, 50-year-old order!). genius called Signor Brioni,
some
He is the person I'd like to bring back to add some colour, Home enthusiasm, and Bartorial sense clothing industry.
to Our men's
Pockets appear every- where-sometimes Canet Into out scama, sometimes picked
often ksym with stitching, metrically shaped.
is
A grey tweed sports can! collared and cuffed in grey ribbed jersey.
He is the man who has put
Newest of all are a group of "host fashion what I can only call men's ethes into the news and made Jtaly's influence gowns." In heavy silk brocade, felt in High Streets all over they have rounder lapels, & Britain, extending from Teddy single button, and a real sent- Boys at one extremo even 10 on-the-board air. Savile Row at the other.
He is the man who abolished
trouser the
tum-up,
who
invenied the short civilian over-
REACTION
cont, who thed a narrow length OES it all sound out of your
bla world lite bit splyvy, or
the young" gave "all right for
Well, the models who wore the i
sensible, were solid, clothes
wide blt middle-aged men, e
attle thin about the middle, on top. They looked superb.
of gleaming silk round model's neck and thus birth to a new tle fashion.
Above all, he made colour respectable for men. His collee- tion for 18960 sizzles with it, Leather greatcoats are bright grass green; a belted raincost reverses black to white, another comes in bright maize yellow.
AN AIR
THIS year he introduces high- buttoning sult jackets, smaller collars, narrower lapels. He has softened the typical Italian stik shoulder, ined almost every jacket with
Simmor Brioni telis me it
This dren and cape in charcoal tweed with leopard facings is designed by Bob Burnand, a young man durrently exhibit- ing his collection In Paris. He has just made his Bret dress for the Duchess of Windsor, A Britta wholesale house in considering selling his designs buto,
takes at least two years for kuch pasemsketboluna N new styles to catch on in Italy. and, sadly, at least another two years in England.
imported LADY LUCK
Nevertheless, We more than £1,000,000 worth of wear last year, Italian men's
of note in every Every shop town boasts a stock of Italian ties, and in the autumn Signor Brioni opens his first boutique in London.
unexpected flash striped silk. but I can't wait to дес the
Everything from a sober city sult to a brilliant red corduroy jacket is buttoned in silver blazer butions (engraved to
I am with him all the way reaction to purple panta in Pall Mall.
-(London Express Service),
FOCUS ON BEAUTY
He: Later, looking at hus pictures, the man trith
the camera must!:
"She's always just a lovely as she looked that day-stretched out on a sun-drenched beach, between ses and sky. Her face has that clusive quality that defies the artist'a , but it's the beauty chill... deceives the cameraman. There's a lustre about her hair.. and softness of her complexion that cap- tivates and intrigues; a complexion that's forever smooth and clear...always at its lovelient..."
She: [Unaware of his musing, the quietly thanks gentle, expensively perfumed Knight's Castile toilet soap for the daily assurance it gives her of looking her loveliest-alwayı)}
Why not follow her lead and look your loveliest ~with Knight's Castile Toilet Soap
Made in
Bagland
TO HER MACETO THE SULLA
JPW ENGAT 17H LONDOR ČASURE
Look your loveliest
WYTH
KNIGHTS CASTILE TOILET SOAP
Knight's
Castile
VERONICA PAPWORTH This is what Paris will mean to YOU
Paris.
XELL here it is in simple basic English for all WEL
those millions.of women who can't help feeling faintly (sometimes madly) interested in next season's fashion fun. You will be wearing:-
LONGER SKIRTS —–— anything from 2 to 4 in. below the knee. Aff talk of kneo-longth is just so much
nonsenso.
LONG, LONG, LONGER JACKETS right down to wrist or fingertip length, depending on the length of your orms and, us always, your courago.
LOWER WAISTS anything from an inch below the genuine, nature-intended line to almost-on-the-hip-bone. NEW are the fur pill-box hals-a pouff of black fox amack above the eyes, the top-coats shading downwards in wide bands from white to black or blond to butter-scotch.. the big braid- the milk chocolate coloured pearls. covered builone...the sleeveless tunde jackets in vivid woollens worn over matching long-sleeved dreises... the astonishing amount of white tweed for daytime in winter.
NEW are the beautiful, softly bloused dark dresses with the waist pet well down on to the hips.
Your CHINA MAIL Horoscope
SATURDAY, AUGUST 15
21.
AQUARIUS (January
February 19): You ought to make a special endeavour to smooth out the relation- ship between two members family who have of your become estranged, from one another.
PISCES (February 20- March 20) Your imagina-
tion is very capable of res ducing Ideas to a practical level.
ARIES March 21-April 19): A new social activity wil cake quite a bit of your time, but you will feel that It in worth the effort.
TAURUS (April 20-May 20): A former clase, relationship which you regard as finish- ed ought to be wound up quickly and painlessly.
GEMINI (May 21-June 21): In your urge to be of Barvico to others Go not neglect your own interests.
CANCER (June 22-July 21): You will find a most con←
genial partner in somebody born under Aries. 1
LEO (July 22-August 21); By putting off necessary action you are liable to mins a great opportunity,
VIRGO (August 22-Septem-
I think these are the "easy" nine-Ull-siz dress you will learn to love.
NEW is the long, narrow-skrted evening dreas reacting to the ankle. or instep only, and never hiding the silipers.
1
I think this is a deliciously pretty line Start
on
a girl who walks well, practising those tiny steps now.
NEW are the street-length theatre coats of flower-printed duchess salin worn over straight, blouse-backed chiffon dresses. For example- beauty in a thousand and one shades of blue and purple over a lilac diens,
7 would rather see a good-looking coat than a couple of yards of awkward side- slipping, adjustubie mink stole any day. NEW are culpes-in every shape and for every hour! There are short expes over street_dresses, hure cape collars on coats, calf-tergth satin capës for evering.
I think the prettiest by far are the In-
cape sleeves on top coat smoshing, dashing, and, I imagine, gorgeously
warth.
Verness
Out in front
ONE man stand's head and shoulders above the
rest of the designers of Paris. He has shape, style, a magnificent sense of colour, and a line which has developed consistently from season to brasch.
He is Pierre Cardin.
At 32, he is young enough to design for all who are still young in heart and shape. But uld enough not to make a fool of himself in a bald for a new "sensation." (No name-calling, naturally.)
To all who care about clothes it must have become increasingly evident that there are now TWO KINDS OF WOMEN,
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French manufacturers of ready-to-wear suits have already become long-jacket-minded. Pictured by the Beine, where the leaves are already · turning to autumn's gold, in a grey-and-brown checked tweed suti.
Sull by Tickliner, of Paris; Pictura by John Adriaan
FBT there Ja tho Fashion He oven
knockout shows a pare-setter She can take a new evening version-in white satin, Line and make something excit- Highlight of his collection for Ing and dramatic out of it no me was a white minit blouse
may for television viewing! - matter how Efeult" t
DOGM
se eyelashes. Her first knit- She might have been born with ted bootees, one feels, hath needle-pointed toea. She wraps hair in a her long, fly-awny "beehive or spiral round her bend. She wears a pilisbox hat.
Her hips are lean, her lips are almost eclourless. Her eyelids this season will be heat-white.
She is all eyes and ongles.
ber 22): Use your good The younger set in the French
mind help someone
Fashion scene [Givenchy,
THE NEW Chanel suits show the mixture ns before-and addicts would not wish them any other way.
Ône point worth watching ---- spari from same excelteni, muita
tunics, her Orientul
seven in the traditional mizer. eighths in length, and allt at the side, could well start a fashion ve lasting es "that sult."
THE Dor opening turned out to be a wake. Nothing is left of that ttle gonius Christian Dior himself
For the rest the collection gradually deteriorated from G ridiculously unwearable line (a bloused sit with a tight kno-
band) into a stream of burchsc
and floured knee-length dresses of unbelievable vulgarity. "
It was all very, very sad.
1
-AND RAIN
GLAMOUR-AND
There are more clothes — and
and Imagination to Laroche, and Cardin) love her TT is nim o'clock on a damp Ebullience is in the air.
an excerpt from Moliere. close to you to death. For her alone they and wily evening and han- We start with a puppet show. who needs your support. have followed through with in dreds of fashion edfiresses are The scenery sways madly-
Betweenwhiles Bardot like persistently relaxed and very converging on the open air the red-headed fiddle player is LIBRA (September 23-Octo- much "squared-up" line
theaire in the Tuileries Gardens. In danger of losing his music, beauties continue to bound to
and For her, Cardin has designed
a few drops of rainaren frp uretfi ip bounds the
bride to end it thaw, ber 22): It is a mistake to a series of idmono-geved coats,
We are to me the latest col- falling. Jump from an Isolated suits with Russian-bloused tops, lection by Jacques Bateral,
The rain is coming down my, instance to sweeping low-waisted dresses, and tailored whose chief claim to fume sensing happily around the stage, back as stamping and elapping generalisations and -you evening clothes. ought to avoid the habit.
SCORPIO (October
November 21): Vigorous outdoor activity will clear away the cobwebs and make you more alert for the work ahead of you.
to be that he made Bandot's
theo
DOMINOCKED
But the announcer is caper»
warenth
a little is making wildly I feel wedding does. The Invitation the first mannequin
her way up the steps, and yet returning to my extremition, another young man this ane NOSTALGIA has a pale, intense face, and an "Oxford" accent--da calling the
* divertise
merits."
THE BECOND kind of iwankti
A stall man in a sweater and
top
the one who wihts - pretty troners closo ta pencilce tights members of the dresses at the dark and the set of rain on
Lor her. This season abo
Nonsense
· This kind of wathan is th
clollies which do something Isups toward to lead me to thy will seat and there are plenty of pretty
Ho is without doubt a ballet dancer, and 1 tread nervously.
At any mbrient z feel I shall SAGITTARIUS (November plat. She has plunged regain
and bath into blatory with the be matched up, wirled around 22-December 21): Get over deg. She be payed on- liệu head and fung into my your reluctance to accept thing from Fosophisms (in en plate. help from others when it is Empire Line) to the Dally po gladly and seliranty Barters (in a sack). offered.
there
Nina
LAUGHTER
of his voice, then well them on a blackboard for thou who cannot hear.
Ther ore more
·Rilvertisem
I run through the treas là the the defed ourth is unbelievably
was legit.
Oh -- and a thousand times oh-to be back in thợ sundon.
The Ita de Rivolt bo A multarist in a cardbound shimmering streak of reflected
Light window with blac
༔*
strums away, and three men in lights on wet poveminta 1, too, period costume chase a shop- am wet, but not so beautiful. herdam
while round Iako
A taxi skida to' statistili "Somewhere," And how
mccording to tho thank heavens for kitila. 10- Kanightingale is Ricci's "return to the Middle 1 ein, however, bowed into guitarist, Ages with a nipped-in wait and the front row, which gives me singing."
When we reach my” hotel, CAPRICORN (December. 224 dash of Lucretia Borgin sout Immerysa paletaction int
My foot are getting wet. have stuck to the seat.. Look up and fine that the awning Under the trees in the far January 20): Your sense the shouldera
There were also made of that covert the audience starts distanco I think I me a beur. of responsibility is a mont
dinirable, trait and ought black fox fur very pretty and only above the second.
Meggy" to wear. And lecpad On the stage the left-hand It tans out to be a young man to merit the reapset of your which is terribly, terribly Ebor wing of He wentry crasies tha tull-length racoon cout
donk the wind, rozruly Incredible --- a tur cóst in this associates.
mingas the trio --- Akite, „16- tiots in August) - LUCKY ENCOUNTER: 1✯ PIERRE BALMAIN the order a Welsh harp who
25 cloudgiver whole Valotties have tribesked
A Little My new; neighbours ero altul and várt living.” today: Is your birthday. A undoubtedly (do" something for each bishth century funk.
dering .... softly andi - clapping t meeting with CAT WOMEN THO movie plan and fallions Town is ladichter, and tote violently to increase circulation. BEMA, QBACİB: tay bavi sneen, ku der another young men spring, toward to aroma aerenicegautontebing ring down moine "special, significance. of the long-jackstest mult brigado, doarenoge ile 201.
́hast it is suddenly very coliti
Í alink in likò a stro, cat. situng on my bed, petlled out •
my wet stockdings I ara sudjenly reminded of the phetrug | Worda of a girl friend-"So you're on again to a round of pleosiro
At which I gkerio wendly'atid