2 per pyn
WEEK-END
Are You The Girl Vase Look? Or
All Trapeze?
By VERONICA PAPWORTH
66TRAPEZE suits
ballooned backs
draped chemises" . you are probably murmuring to yourselves "These fashion girls go skipping off to Paris and Italy and send back reams of deathless prose about Looks and Lines-- but what in the world does it all MEAN?"
And fwhich is very much
more important).
It mean to me?"
"what does
Right? Well, to begin with i certainly does not mean that
you ore going to look like a.
circus net.
why I cannot thluk how or such inspired artists at dress- making dream up such utterly uninspired names,
"Trapeze" is almost as un- fortunate na "suck."
In fact the St. Laurent-Dior line is a development of the straight-up-and-down chemise dresa, But the new ones are very much wider at the hem.
This is young and absurdly pretty on a long-legged girl. it can also be toned down to suit the less young and lexgY.
One thing-before we go any further insist on giving John Cavanagh in London equal credit for this trapezo Une,
There were no hysterics when he showed it. Nobody cried and,
so far as I know, nobody kissed
him on both cheeks.
But he deserved his kisses.
llow doca the
that
it happen same shape "inspires" the fashion kings in three
capitats?
"It's in the air." Say
young and starry-eyed.
the
"It's al) A development
from the collection,"
wise ones,
Let
Inst Balenciaga
say the
THE LINE
old
and
us consider the shape
in relation to you because it's
not the slightest good going out to shop for it your proportions won't stand it.
the
Never, never. buy any dress because It "is latest,"
If it doesn't do something for you don't have it,
since
the Броп-
So-we will reduce this problem dosat to simple equations and. recent Government sored
sizing report provedi thai the average wornan is slightly pear-shaped (smal bust and wide hips), here's the way I see it.
A pear Into д trapeze shape equals success. It does po-splendidly. In fact, this 13 the line for the woman with pretty legs and problem hips.
It will have to be short-well, shorter than you have worn for soveral years. But don't be reckless... and do keep your knees covered unless they are insured for £10,000,
CONE-SHAPED
There are many, many varli- tions With sults it simply means a waistless jacket above a cone- shaped skirt. The outline widens gently from just below the bust.
Did I say bust?
on this "rapeze" line.
BEEHIVE
HELMET
THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, MARCH 1, 1958.
News From
WOMANSENSE
To Wear The New York
You Go
Will
HAT TREND. In the drawings: What Paris offers.
Ia
the picture: Trinted chiffon cloche-by Michael of London,
THE VASE LOOK-On sale in Londen now, a Polly Peeks Bower-printed dress with a Rited front (there's a waist elastic Inside) and bagged back. Price: le gulness.
Grecian-positively not a tea urn-with n slight waist, no
LAST WORD
more.
In fact it is still there-but A FINAL word about the
only just.
'You don't think this is "you"? Courage...cournge. ... There's another equation coming up.
Let
Ing.
·
excitement at Dlor. It did happen...the crowds and cheer-
But if three or four muvie
outside cameras appeared London dressmaker's-plus 1
shouting into
#1
a micro- US now. consider the man woman with splendid shoulders phone and a couple of hundred and bosom, no waist and quite fashionably dressed women commendable hips.
#
ihrunging the entrance-don't you think a crowd would col-
To blazes with the Govern- lect?
ment sizing report. There are If only our designers were a plenty of this shape of woman ittle more publicity-minded, around.
A few cheer leaders strategie-
What is more they almost al- ally placed, a beautiful blonde ways have very pretty legs and to start the kissing...in fort, a liny feet.
Mike Todd-ory all apet more round and wa'd hit the head- They are tho vaso-shaped inca every bit as hard as Paris. women. And....... a Vako into n On the other hand, there are blouse-topped, whistless
those who maintain that fashion scirted dress'doca go-rungnin-is a serious business
And, as in every other busi-
"It's orders that mätlès- ness, not urgies.
cently.
slim-
You don't hope to be a vane. You may be an-VEN.
THE “VASE LOOK.
I'VE
VE worn my feet down almost to the knees hunting up the few dresses from the very latest collections of the London wholesalers that approximate to Paris.
These are not the genuine thing- you'll have to wait until Paris Bays we may show you.
But they are absolutely on the beam --and they will be coming into the shops almost immediately and they are not "couture" prices.
Now for some these two outlines.
of the snags about
The skirts on all the trapeze skirts and dresses must be lined with some very firm backing such as Vilene. They must swing like a straight-sided belt from just below the bust.
They look wonderful on the model girls (what does not!) but I'm not so happy about Bitting around in one... driving a car in ore.. and so on.
It poema to me that since the fulness la not soft it might well be dimoult to arrange gracefully and modestly.
(Rather like sitting down pilable lampshade.)
MY CHOICE
The loose, balloon top is my choice because I don't honestly like full adirts on women ever 30.
Also it ‘has · fewer dland- vantages.
In fact there are only two snags that I can pinpoint.
One is that the fabric used must have "body." In a cheap
It would droop.
second is that it must be very skilfully cut before it Is draped,
After that it is entirely n matter of proportion...
If you are really short, your baggy-backed skirt or dress must cling tight below the hips. If you are taller you can have fun with a full-length drape. Take a look at the flower- printed dress. See what meur? Ours is a very wearable compromise.
WHO KNOWS
Fattening? Not 'in the slightest.
With any loose look noborty knows for certain
where you end and the fulness begins.
Isn't there an old Easter: proverb-"A woman velled in drapery is more mysterious by far than one who smites the eye in a skin-tight robe"?
in a slightly
HANDBAGS THAT LODE Remember, if you do top the skirts of your cults you must turn up your jackets in pro- portion. This is really in- portant if you don't want to ruin the balance of your sult. HATS are mostly small, fair- tall and warn very straight. The Italians show the Breton sailor, but I didn't see one in Paris,
ly
By GAY PAULEY
DDING on pounds
A Usually means letting
out the
no
seams. But longer, if the prediction of Charles Weiner, & textilo official, comes true.
Weiner said that dresser which will expand, or contract, with the changes in weight are in the test singe and may be available before the end of the year.
Weiner is merchandise mana- ger for a Philadelphis Company (textured yarn) which makes a synthetle called tycora, Modo into dresses, which look like lightweight wool ·Jersey, the varns are hent set so that the contours remain, even though the figure underneath has shifted. Yarn clasticity is built ja,
A
•
THE CUINEA PIG
company stylist, Alma
| Triner, is one of the guinea pigs
for the test dresses.
"I'm perfect because my weight's "always changing," she said. "In the last two months I've gone from a size eight to a size 10... from 114 pounds to 125."
The dress expanded with her, she said. Now she's anxious to find how it will contract.
Sald Miss Triner: "I've gone on a diet."
Most diicult to wear Were the Pierre Cardin pot hate exactly like a man's trilby within the Waldorf Astoria the dent michel out,
Sophia Loren has one Bartole, wears ore.
They can keep them!
UTTERLY CHOSTLY
HANDBAGS must be envelope ог purse-shaped. Anything that hangs down below the hem- Ino on long bandles looks Hidiculous.
TOW
Just about everybody who is anybody in New York society and the entertainment workl turned Qui for this year's March of Dimes" fashion show Hotel ballroom. Models for the event, sponsored
the National Foundation for Infantile Paralysis, Included Shirley Booth, Dody Goodman, Julle Harris, Doretta Morrow, Teresa Wright and Thelma Ritter.
But it was the finale that left a lot of the guests breathless.
THE BLONDE
EVENING DRESSES — may- A blonde beauty, dremmed in thing goes, Short, medium and form clinging champagne full length wide or nar-coloured dincier dress, appeared
there f
something of on stage, escorting Lindy and almost everything.
Sandy Solomon, Bix-year-old The most consistent line is twins of Warner Robins, Ga., the fronted ultra-curtain- who are this year's Pollo Fund backed dress in flowered chiffon poster ehlidren. but very much more to.
How are
the men going to like the latest look? I showed the proofs of today's pictures to a couple. "Depends on the Icgs, doesn't
sald it,"
my
No? Well there certainly husband doubtfully. "Absolute should be.
ly, utterly ghastly," said my THERE'S the rest of the new? older son,
from Rome, Florence, Paris
What do your menfolk thinke of 11?
and London,
SKIRTS are short every- where.
Which
means
that you'll be cutting off anything from a half to two and a half inches according to your height....and your
nerve.
It depends how seriously you take fashion
all this
business.
alocyte, bergdā backinali Tho hów Laune: Da Dorrillo's mohair cost. Twenty-seven Stinth
PICTURES BY
look.
Almost to a man, and woman, the some 2,000 guests gasped,
for and then stood up
better
Peter Ustinov, the author and actor doing the Emece for the finale, delivered the superfluous lice of the day.
"This," he said, "is Marilyn Monroe":
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