WEEK-END
/!
A cocktail dress of white lightweight wool thown' at an autumn-winter collection in Turin, It has a tacked bodfor, trimmed with strips of oedar-green lace motif. The
kirt in fail a:d cai ch bías.
Eyes Are More Interesting Than Waistcoat Buttons
EY warmest
By Veronica Papworth
THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDÁY, AUGUST 8, 1957.
WOMANSENSE
Magda Meyer reports on the Autumn-Winter collections in Germany
Varied Styles Created For
Specific
WHILE British
couturiers tend to turn
to the wholesale market because they are unable to fira a sufficient number of customers who can afford to pay the price of an ex- clusive model, German de signors, in their current autumn/winter collections, have concentrated on do signing clothes for specific occasions, relegating multi- purpose clothes to the back- ground.
This is a complete change of policy and is due to the ever- higher living standard of a more discriminating class of conSLIM –
erw
brought about by the
economic consolidation in central Europe.
Germin
Since the war the Bablon houses, while following the dictates of fashiotz, have al- ways borde in mind the portance of timeless eleganét, designing clothes which could be Woth' on as many occasions pufible.
AS
In the new outuinn/winstes collections, however, the Germa designers are promoting differ- ent clothes for different times of the day and for different pui- Росса. For instance, the duty of the morning dress ork
pm; a travet ensemble is for traveling
ing only; the afternoon dress is outdated at cockta time and dresses for the theatre are different from those worn at Informal parties kfsure wear is being created with an eye to finess of pur- port,
Even
Occasions
Scharmbe
Schwichtutions
Page
9
27fathoms
3
down
and ROLEX Oyster
runs accurately as ever.
Exting
Since 1956
all ROLEX and
Tudor Oyster cases equipped with Twinlock crown hava been guarantood waterproof to an underwater depth of 165 ft.
SUBIS
HORN-MODELL: A beige wool fabric is used for this youthfal two-piece ensemble consist.
ing of a dress with an ail-round pleated skirt and stervitem bodice with a high neckline, and a brief, doable-breasted, straight jacket with a matching taupe mink collar. MODELLHAUS Schwabe; The coat and suit in this ensemble are in two different wool fabrics in the same beige colour. The large collar on the cost and the pockela and collar of the suit jacket are iti matching Persian ismb. HERMANN BCHWICHTENBERG: This alende dress in exmel-coloured wool la' topped by a short, věty full jacket of the same colour with a large shawl collar of natural beaver to match the muff. STAEBE-SEGER: A wother-of-pearl coloured soft wool is used for this comfortable topoost with a platinum coloured mink collar. The fullness falls in soft gathers from an napata buttoned Joke, GEHRINGER & GLUPP: Main features of the elongated jacket of this sult in reed greeni tweed are the dropped shoulderline, cut-in-one, rounded servis, balloon-shaped back and- tiny alde verth. Worn over a slender skirt, it has an important collar of coffee brown Persian
Jamb.
and
worsteds and carded woollens, often in fine: blends of autumní leaf shades, with the emphasis and brown-green
tones.
plain leather. Another popular sult style is that with a rather unaccented brief peplum
The Bull jacket on groing best
tlay pockets. A silhouette ronges from the lightly-fitted to the straight and brief. The latter is particularly evident in suils for the Junior, miss and is partnered by either a plented or a slim skirt.
Ing lengths. Fullness springs the colours in the courts are
15
Afternoon dresser are. Ja a quite separate category, and it is here that field Labs such as fino wool georgettes and Woo jerseys noose. Cleverly droped and sashed, the most usun! trimming takes the form of tiny bows which are placca avery- where. In addition, luxury fur including mink and ermine used extensively for collars, cule and packet detail. In- cidentally, this luxury -- -fur. trimming is not copfined to dresses but is noen on couta and quite as well.
Lamm is available in both a fine In addition, there is a distinct and a coarse texture or in both trend for comfortable firsthlons. crisp and a fleecy fabric; or colour is used as the common The relaxed look exemplided in full costs design- denominator. For instance, ed for perfect cast of move coat in green and red Shetland
than mant. They are buikler than
Js teamed with a worsted suit over and feature huge pockets in which the red of the jacket and enarious diceven of vary and the green of the skirt match
rounded, The now season's London. of one of the oldest wine mer-in gathers from
of purpose
Although the dress-plus nary consideration. congratulations cheating familles in this commry widened shouldering and from styled with fitness
primary Mto the ravishing Miss So- and
#t the being the
Jacket comes into the category they
both believe that various yoke treatments
go from classic town of multi-purpose clothes They range
it is phia Loren for doing what very women should know more about front and a the back.
styles (which
very often have a.
still to be seen this season be few English women have dared who. To help them in this
The casud topper-style coat fur collar), through travel suits cause it fits into the ensemble to do. Stre, who without doubt happy task they are giving a
of a more severe straight silan "sporty" woollens such
theme. The predilection for had some of the tallest men in series of lunch parties-followed houette and featuring revers, tweeds, including Shetland and contrasts in styling finds its ex the land at her feet, has elected by a tour of their cellars--cool, sollar and patch pockets is stil! herringbone, to the elegant el pression in a elender dress to marry Signor Carlo Pori Cark, sllest end caver-like.
to be seen, most often in a cub semble suit with
jacket
comparted by a brief and ve who stands a mero 3 1. 3 in. Just the place to spend a wet dues camel colour, This style is which reaches down to about Cull jacket, While the bodero has In his rocks--(Dr. so they tell attemoon.
disappeared completely,
spen- Vital statistics for Alm Mr Hill presented me with aven a new touch by means of inches above the kace,
bell
cers and vestecs are much producers are not readily cb- small shiny chart what to be casually knotted at the
waist
While the tunic effect is not tainable, but she's certainly drink with what and when It is worth mentioning that Those in the last category by evidence.
popular in Germany, it is to be 5 ft. 9 in.).
GEHRINGER. on HANS single coats are gradually
For morning dresses this sen-
Been here and there for the form Now at my age I have leamed
their way out in Germany. Al- sudden death shocked the Get son there are two very distinct
of a slim double skirt. world, deserve
silhouettes offering numerotis that a man's height is of very Drink what you like-provided most every coat is teamed with man fashion
Important colours Tar to particnire mention. His unusual, styling possiblities, The
first other matching garments
which autume and winter include ell form
Indeed, generously-cut, long jacket fea is the youthful dress the ensemble tures rounded, low-mounted,
alcovės,
bloused again favours a cut reminiscent the beige tones from putty to ohampagne, datk of the Princess line. Then there sand and theme have never been more cut-in-one versatile and include clothes for balloon-shape back end tiny all hours of the day.
side vents and is single-breasted, are the slender sheath dresses shimmering grey, mary browns, which follow the curves of the aching hazelnut and chocolate, elim a very
deep The fabele manufacturers have It is worn over
body and which, whether seam olive and bleander green, been swift to take advantage skirt.
ed at the waist or not, in- medium blues and reds, ranging from China, to lobster. Black Widely promoted is the casy variably feature a belt, of the numerous possibilities of
and white are as popular this trend.. Two, three and even to-wear and attractive travel
Favoured fabrics for these ever, particularly for formal four different patterns have suit comprising a jacket with a
dresses are a variety of stylish evening dresses. or in common. factor; the same pai- belt in zelf material
me.
"but i's simply the accepted
down any hard and fast rules.
things," said he "One can't lay
little importance though I dare say I cared about these things I would and I pocketed the variations.
you really do like it." I promised when I was very young.
chart.
My own feeling now is that, it I am all in favour of knowing I am standing close to a chap 1 but I am not so sure it's wise to would haltely rather gaze kt? air one's knowledge in malo his
walatcoat comp:ay. eyes then his
A safer technique is to open buttons. So anything aretini Sft. Bin, is all right with me.
one's eyes wide and say "YOU But many women are madly choose. You seem to know zo sensitive about being seen with much about everything "
a man shorter then themselves.
THE LITTLE MAN
I once shared a studio with a
tall girl who fell desperately in
love with a short E
It changed her completely. She took to wearing Bat sendals walking about with manklike fact sticking out beneath her snart skirts.
She wore flat berets too—at n time when hats were soaring higher and higher.
She developed rounden shoulders and a semi-stoop-- | hoping to crouch down to her boy-friend's level.
-London Express Service),
ensemble,
LOTE
London Couturiers Inspired By New Fabrics
He did not like the change-TIBISCUS —
H
and, no wonder.
that
and
nud
London. far way-the fabrics. It is from
TAMINULOCİALTČEN that's the the cloth d'esigners
the couturiers 11 colour for autumn say get their first inspiration, He had fallen for a tall, the London fashion de. It is, in the form of fabrics that sprightly character end that signers at the start of their the couture Ideas from London was the way he wanted her.
filter down from the salon 'to Oh dear, the acotes and the couture week. It's a warm, the shop round the corner.
glowing red which comple- The materiale the designere "The family are furious," she monts the mid-greys and use today are sold over the
Incarow, and would sob-"they say we look muted
the browns which are comier
fabrics used this acnson are no funny together."
Marry him." I used to urge the season's basic fashion news story in themsolves. be"he's dynamite, your little colours. men. He's the type that can't
fall,
་
CAN'T GO WRONG.
nmg week.
answer to a maidon's
prayer is a bottle of V
slove
11
whose
French of London calls this hair style the Midobrow". The hair to brushod forward over the forehead, up into the shape of a mantilis comb on the top of the head
u
In
Miner Rudolph showe
Foning* Un fexthered cook» » tall hat with a while osprey perched on the top.
En
the
д
fur tekintsings, this evening
boccia velrot with white
has_by Ango Thinatuý ls worn with a garlands of white fur and Lowes.
They
been
informal parties An the chooses one to weer. couters showers full-Lorigton, suru shaped exactly like mucc- And it's a chode that culto al as rayon It don't matter
Back, with a bang, ta crepe...
avening gowns, most of the patis, with the handles removed, with fruight skirts.
Cand were made from vivid But she gave him back his almost everybody.
Actipas Vivien Leigh,; "whiờ coloured volvet sud Worn -ring' cont went off to South Hibiscus red locks, at its best which. It's way for afternoon clothes and
dame to 30 Victor Shebels girnight on top of the head At Africa.
for accessories--artisis. berets in dresses, docktail
-dinner gowns, and it's tried in And the little man? He betched velvet pulled down on a dimerent way that brings it as a feather, and cool to wear, show fall for two grand man- arichart now, gradi miliner came a hero in the commandos, the side, long evening
It's but it gives you the luxury, fent' mer evening gowns two dresses galled Peter Shepheard showod " that, as one of Bilobel's ellende, large braclet-style hats mode great subcess in husiness and the to make a change from the right up to 1957. fashion.
inevitable black and white, not draped or pleated, It's net of a gigantic furry coat, father of six children.
shiki-tight in, #. Martyn. The fabric is woyen in giant she'll probably be seen round from leather strelcher smoothly
of the in Inter on this year, i
aver a firm bokady and shining Itte window-pone chocka Which seems to provo same-elegant dark shoes that are own
Monroe:- #yle
The first was a candy-birtasthoud equally good for day and eve fashiond Enter easy sittle drops dite used in traveling rugs ***
they had kidoesn't it?
with silm salria, ilightly, biotech thers roughed up afterward to evening gown of knight chatod, facquered.
over and aflahart Ekerend- ws caw shaggy draped Grecian-styla thacoondada awalschoes, gve it a fashionably tops, You can, if you're keen, tint They're the kind of de to look. Dodigner Michael used if narrow skirt. It was wiemployé tise anten: hat of all to wear your hal" hibiscus red, but we took nothing on the hanger gut for a bolted topcoat in black and and full-length Rose," said Mr A. H. M. better to conting your colour give you comelly slogant look silver, Ronald Paterson, on the
other hand - nied
The second was an einer but with the accent, on veival, Thavonot. If a young mein experimente to one hards her the whe list and streeks father than sport
candy theatre emotobleza Boutent The clammio #aft, as we once mohair in a bright plok, made
into an evening coat în pâle tine taffels, knew it, its almost disappeared wing cont cut just like en euned in brown, minic and tied with Hedginetid dhoulders, my, affleur » trench-conti come si the tackling with a Bugg, zipped in walatine and curvos bota-with brum battoom. PatentSky+cht:bow. I was worn over the bhips in 10 place 2007 who extors for the younge eror a critibilno #yla ball gowo omnes the slightly wide kirt etsromér, had sonda gioicious diete brevem and white pure sils, mut la mater to walk iny topped. hoty a narrow, sloping shouldered Bekkestilats. Savshort, banga Straight, frown the shoulder candi Indicacitan waist and
a the kind of dres
What shall we drink?" she masovolent - looking crimson aper May's capft go wrong with Rose-and head.
bo It won't
too hard on his
welk Yes, London's couture pocket.
D đi Đà La Urn ebon 1 We sat round him-Christina been launches, and the buye Toyle, Elra Kendall of Vogue stiù fashion – asiitors - from all ang myself a drinking in this pros lie world arm sei fonéry-to- xation toether with a me what the chinery, have to Gibaud Lardes, 1950, 1963 What have the collection
plais
own, with, a
↑ draped · bereis end, shohrer-cape
in a wealth of different fabrict
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crown,
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