THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, MARCH 2-1957.
WEEK-END
Two evening dresses illustrating the new soft, supple silhouette favoured by French couturiers in their recent Spring-Summer oollections,
Left: As smooth and graceful as "the salt in the breeze”, this strapless_gown_fypl- fies the theme of Jean Dessen' creations. It is in almond-coloured fallie, with s bodice dipped in the front from where the skirt in puffed into the shape of a balloon. With a long tapering train, the skirt is caught at the back with a tiny how,
Right: "Espagno", the main feature of which is the flounced skirt with a dipping train, is of natural-coloured lace embroidered with gold. Dlor here given 'hlu nod to the
Irregular skirt length. — Arence France-Presse.
The Spring Fashion Scene In Paris
HEADLINE
Paris.
trends int the Paris spring collee- tions, star the slim, natural- ly proportioned silhouette. treated to new draped and tapered effects.
An overall suftness with lines fluid, lightly defined
emphasised by supple fabrics, is prevalent from morning until midnight.
in the daytime picture, there
"The are two new suit themes. tonger belted jacket is typiled by Dlor's "Saharienne" derived African bush Jacket. from un
Angerup Other knuckle and
include in erpretations
the "Cuba" cut, like a short pilot coat or pot jacket, and certain middy treatments.
Jackets continue t Cropped nany houses in speteers with tiered unle skin at Heim.
buckswept Lanvin Castillo's
boleros balanced by bloused top und wide kimono sleeves, aru The outstanding highlights in Balmain's filled, open-collar characteristic ut this 1957 Jackels with graded hemline.
summer season!
Art:
the new
middy top and fouling bodice Day dresses
dressts; the return of the long costume overblouse, use,
bell; the
the wide opened up necklines
for
day wear
decolletes for the
particularly the
tapered Jouk of
harem
лод
The blouse
with
sofi
cowls
uric
ог
plays an integrat bareback rand
evening: the rele, mated to jacket linings in
spotted twills printed or hemim shamungs, or featured in pastel hobbled effecis in Kossamer chiffon chitton; and, finally, the regal drapery filling in the wlue BOL Chanci stressts sul nickline, ttle ruins un formul-luthes.
the print overblouse casually with: New dipping hemlines, con- swathed round the waist,
the trasting short lengths in front sash ends falling below with long back panels or Ashtall Jacket him. trains. preface the Royal visit of
Elizabeth Queen England in April.
fron
the big news in formal dressing.
"Pakistan", created in the manner of a sari, is of black and beige houndstooth silk. The drapery in the skirt is drawn up as a cowled hood,
Agence France-Presse,
coat of
court
WOMANSENSE
Would You Like To Buy Yourself A New Face?
10
From ANNE SCOTT-JAMES
NE branch of science is expanding furlously and has no sinister under- tonos. Cosmetic surgery. It is now reputable and un- secretive. Every year, more and more women (and men) have noses straightened, de- fects corrected, faces made younger, to the benefit of their happiness and health.
I bave just read a book on Cosmștie Surgery by one of the crack
in Paris, surgeon..
Dr can Boivin,
As the bcok impressed me greatly, i As the French surgeons are supposed to be the (best in the world at the job (the French cure most about beauty), i went to Paris to sue him. Dr Belvin jina Axed the faces of celebrities from every coutury a earth. He started to tis a painter and sculptor, so he views each face with no artist's, as well as a doctor's, eye.
I didn't walk technicaltues, I just shot at him the few key questions that thousands of women want to ask.
Successful?
"Which operations are most Successful?" I asked,
"At what age should a woman who want to stay young-looking nave cosmetic surgery?"
A is bet to nave it young, say at 40 or
1 cumiot g JANIVEL DE UIs if the liries nave The first oDNIR- Get too deep. tion is usually for lines under the eyes. These are the Best to appear, and if they are re- move) a woman looks five, 10, even 18 years younger."
What Risk?
"Do the operations have to be repeated?"
*ine eye operation, no. Other opelations mad to be repeated, say, five years afterwards,
"Is there a risk that a woman will have an altered expression?" "Nut by my methods. Nome surgeons
merely drag the skin tighter. I take away the fat underneath."
"What about the price?" "It costs from nothing up to £300. I have had many patients Atı very humble jobs and I charge according to their means."
Well, there pre the facts. They are encouraging and I be lieve them to be true.
"All are successiui," be sula, "We know enough about it now to have na tellurca,
"The chief operations are for the nose, eyes, facial lines, ears, neck, but mugh the most con- mon operation is to the nose. I have done noses for people of
Xet, looking glvomily at my all yes,
including any own own face in the glass when 1 daughter, who is 10. Her nose got home, I decided to stick for a while to the status quo. was rather broad."
+
THE VICOMTESSE HAS A
PASSION FOR CLOTHES...
J
IN
Here
are her own personal
But rules:-
N Paris, I go to the dress
shows fur sheer news.
Because the sorel of French
DRAWING BY
GUMACHY
"I like scotnirio evening dresses,” says Jacqueline de Ribes. Here, swathed chisson by Jean DenseT,
like that pink-checked dolly Jook.
I like a pale skin and à
eat deal of eye make-up.
1 learn just as much about fashion in private houses, at I love day clothes and even interested in the value of a my favourite clothes until they I never wolle rouge as I dis-
I welur false pleces as are indecent. Lie theatre, la the cafes, rounding clothes, but I loathe after-stone. the streets.
noon clothes. You'll never catch happily as real ones. He in "dressy black."
• I change
my hair all the (Неге she showed me her time, Now it is bouffant, to clothes is the spirited way they I wear skirts and cashmeres
vast jewel drawer, with hand- right it will be up. I can't in the morning-I have masses
fuls of real emeralds and rubles, understand why women keep to of sweaters. Or a casual dress
false china and glass, all thrown une eternal hair-do. Hulf our ideas about French and cardigan if my girl-friends in higgiedy-piggledy, and kind-
cockneyed that come to lunch. My day clothes they live in black, that they are always rather casual. Always Wear hats, that they never wear tweeds.
ale worn.
women
are
Bone-simple
The only thing you can be sure of ja that
• I sometimes go haywire in Very
pretty French woman will love and the evening.
I trankly like eccentrle evening dresses.
sarve out a style of her own.
I've been
I
am not fond of black, talking clothes to except perhaps for the theatre. ane of the best-dressed women I have a passion for belgo; in Paris, asking her how, when, think it's the smartest colour where, and what with what.
in the world. Vitonitesse de Ribes is
and
The 12 rules of a beautiful woman who has all the clothes money in the world. But French women are deeply mako ty offered to lend me a piece for I never wear theatre hats practical. These rules. the evening. But she blenched those hideous blobs of black good, hard-boiled sense, however a but when I picked haphazard velvet and velling. I prefer a much-or little-you spend on on the family "diamonds.)
black velvet bow and a jewel. clothes yourself.
I don't wear many prints. You can't add to a print dress, and the adding of Jewellery, bolts, scarves is the fun,
● I wear narrow skirts clways by day time never a full skirt oxcept in summer. They are just not smart,
I like a suit with some sort of over-jacket in cold weather rather than a full-length coat.
HOUSEHOLD HINT'S
To avoid soggy undercrust in do not whiten fabrics any better frozen baked ple, mako the or faster, but they do weaken crust, then chill the undercrust the fabrics. in the pan while the Alling is top being prepared. Chill the crust or wax paper.
Try this laste trent, use left- over Julce from pickles to marinate fresh carrot or celery Botier follow the maker's curls. Let them stand overnight of bleach. In the refrigerator, and serve in use Excessivo quantities of bleach chilled.
Balmain Introduces the sari Day dresses feature infinitely
gown, with sling drapery In the vorled silhouettes, with
stirt drawn up as a cowled common fecting of suppicness,
In the royal mood, he study fashion-and then coolly These artgulta skal jungths, eusy ungudded shoulders
and hood.
endorses clinging crepe which cannot quite make eul setaway necklines.
dresses complete with train, or their minds whether they are
There is an echo of the 1930s lavishly trims vaporous sheer long or short, and thus establishi
the revival
of the cont and dress ensembles with
in happy compromise, constitute with
chemisier" shirtwaist and coat long-haired furs. Big barrel
'The dress styles, especially at Jacques of while fox cuff a floor-length
while point 27, fall, black-haired, with an I like bone-simple dresses, so The instep and in between Griffe. This same désigner re- cape-back Jengths have likewise gated iterates the Vionnet technique d'esprit.
arresting chiselled mediaeval that I can add to them. I think Dior and etse of bins cut skirts falling in soft
face. acceptance at
Sho bos two children, the most wonderful accessories does Palou
mony short where. felines for
a flat hipline, for day wear folds from
dancing dresses in
skis like a dream, and has à aro jewels. I like crazy aggres- I never throw things out directions printca stabit, though afternoon.
sheers, with
I'm in the passion for clothes. drapery
sive jewellery, but not because they are old, some houses have lengthened
whirling Dior's two-piter slender models, There are them to 15 inches
ihe Tron
dervish Skirts contrived DI floor, while Jean Patou, on the effects, with bloused "Yuirgse"
Japanese flounced tiera or row upon row bodice: them to 歌
inspired models with gently of potals. The tailored shirt- Gared skirt beneath wide, waist dress, formalised shaped Inset belts or cul rashes chiffon or organza, looks equally ondi Palou's slender street new, Little fans in matching
sheer fabrica garianded dresses with wrapped sklits
with doubje breasted lines and flowers accompany the evening buttons parading from collar to clothes at Patou,
are generally
contrary, shortens
scunt 17 inches
"Saharienno", An bolge colton, is a two-plɛee Spring ensemble from Christian Note, its simplicity Dlor. and the new length of the jacket. The belf gives a bloused effect - to the top. The small hat with fine black wall is to be worn ta the afternoon, Agence Francs-Frense,
hemline.
Lanvin's
Belts, as it to make up to
1031 time, are back al every
house. They are
wide ала
or
Various moods
crushed, usually in supple suede Chiffon Is handled in a variety or gluve leather, sometimes in of moods, such
as the 1918
ribbon or self fabric fastened clinging vine gowns of Instep n-symetrically with a decorative length; the short cabaret dresses jewel. * Even cants have a with swirling gypsy skirts, and Lowing acquaintance with restrained fulness gathered into belted effects, slotted around the Zouave
effects or ipline or casually buckled on hobbled hemlines. Jean Desser Dlor's Saharienne jackets, ut a past moster with draped two-thirds and three-quarter Grecian length coats,
Coat trends
the
trouser
round
stataiary t usco shirring in spiral
body, or swelling sidrts with drapery concentrated in front.
acts of the breath-taking drama from the
Between the
A bird's eye view of coals Far East which. unfolds at
reveals three specific trends: Lanvin,
the shorter-than- dress hem- several
length
as
张打
evolution
tunics:
lines, inte
of dresses.
skirts
Chato intersperses all-white "snowball" They have the manipulated cout, entrely contrived of multitudi- tapered
or buck
nous rows of gathered Jaco or gathered
u tulle. led hem
(Pierre Cardin has a touch of magic with this Gres develops panelled treat- style for theatre wear); and the
transparent vetis ments with filmy formal coat in n cobweb falling from shoulders sheer, allk fabric.
hemline, revealing the очева line of the
Bilted gown Evening clothes are as pretty underneath Among the draped and feminine as Parts knows chiffons with high-low hemlines, how to make them. The Die shows acvoral charmingly koynalo is soft fabrics with
of eyelet embroidery ribbott,
⚫ chiffon talding top honours.
to
"knverto”, dresses with
Delicate water-toned pastels and beaded with Deiver alihouolto interest in free drawn looking for all the world like drapery and hemilse delalta Victorian dainties Lom generally replace heavy bride broussentte China Mail embroidery..
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I wear
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