T
THE CHINA MAIL, WEDNESDAY.. NOVEMBER 28, 1956.
NATHANIEL GUBBINS
HERE appear to be "Knees Up, Mother Brown" there nobody would have
many
Oscapism?
forms of which older
☆
Shape of things
people of won it. al the another generation danced moment. A man somewhere in times of stress. in the North of England, where heartier, is reported to have eaten FL 4 lb. steak-and- kidney pie with two veg. in ten minutes flat.
appetites
Immediately afterwards he went home to 1 KORI dinner because be "fell bit peckish."
14
In Birmingham, where alcoholism has always been a matter of deep concern to the local temperance moves ment, the
citizens have beaten all their previous re- cords.
A White Paper just published says the convie- tions for drunkenness there -"56.95 per 10,000 per sons"-are the highest in
the country. But, as
A correspondent has pointed out, this figure represents only a fraction of thousands of enthusiastic elbow-lifting Brums who behave themselves and are therefore never convictest, Among these must be in- cluded 75-year-ok! Bill law. kins, who works in an egg boxing factory and says he drinks 16 pints of beer a day.
Mind those eggs tomorrow morning, Mr Hlowkins.
Then there are the Old Age Pensioners who have been dancing Rock 'n Roll on TV, a modern version of
MARTELL
A widow of 64 complained in court that a dining-car attendant would not allow har to leave a train at St Pancras until he had kissed ber.
the
Although it would be dis- courteous to suggest that this was a form of escapism on the part of the stoward
suggest that it does times we live in have upset of pro- somebody's sense portion. Not many widows ut 64 get a chance of being kissed by anybody.
One form of escapism is to the past. going back While I have been rereading **Duvid Copperfield," ex- Chief Yeoman of Signala, 76-year-old Ernest Wilder, has been proving that Nel son's famous signal, "Eng
and expects that every man this day shall do his duty," is a lot of hovey.
Patiently Mr Walder has worked out that us
Rag signalling would have taken an hour to send the message round the Fleet no admiral in hix right sensEN would have wasted so much lime in the middle of a battle.
There is also some inter- minable correspondence go- ing on in one of the papers about who won the Battle of Waterloo.
All I can say is that if the had been United Nations
Very Fine Cognac
MARTELL
CORDON BLEU
also THREE STAR VSOP and EXTRA
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prophets in
1
UNLIKE many
these difficull times Old
More Gubbins, the discredited and usually peadmistic astro- luger, takes resy view of the shape of things to come.
Writing of future events he saya:
Although nome think that but for the cease-fire in Egypt the problem there would have been week they must solved in a
remember that if Lance- also Corporal Nasser had capitulated or been captured alive by pare troops he might have beeTi brought to London in time to get into the New Year Honours
List.
O. M. G. van tell his delighted renders 12t This is how un- likely to happen.
The shortage of petrol wil
EN have
Blessings. Not only half-empty
CONTINUING THE PERSONAL ADVENTURE STORY OF THE YEAR.
EXCLUSIVE.....
THE CHRONICLE OF A ONE-MAN JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD BY CAR
A TABLE COMPANION EATS
M
SPOONS AND GLASSES
was
I
Y rebuff at the Bulgarian Border disturbing setback. It wns now half past eight and will the sends be for oner, but bilious motorists would have to go hundreds with have to walk, cycic, or at
of miles round by Greece, least run for a bus. This will
vewhere, luckily, the English improve their health and the money on the new charges do not need a visa. for the National Health pre- scriptions due on December 1.
save
Even if the crisis has stopped no talk about turkeys and Christmas puddings [or the moment things will soon swing back to normal. Greedy readers
their enjoy will be able Christmas dinners long before December 25 just by reading The cookery columns,
To there who unk
anxiously,
"Will there be any peiro! for Christmas?" O. M. G. answers, Who wants petrol for Christ- mas when you can drink gin?”
O. M. G. asks his readers in dulgence for the poor old Dean who probably of Canterbury, doesn't know what's going on,
he Ever since
thought the Americans were dropping plague-infested Insects on the Chinese he has been a bit So don't be surprised muddied. if he tells us that we have been dropping poisoned bluebottles in Nasser's soup.
Unless the stars Are lying affairs should soon be bock to normal in Egypt-so normai, in fact, that nasty postcards inay bo on sale again at Port Said.
How it's done
A fairly
regular Intervals somebody writes in to ask how columns are wrillen. Here is the answer and a warning to would-be columnist who
wanted some advice.
this
with
Every Munday morning particular column wages The Intention of writing some- the thing on Monday to avold stampede ister in the week.
In its more virtuous monents i tells itself it will write t column a day for a week ond take seven weeks off
By
PETER TOWNSEND
I
canic
an instance, For
the road from Skopje to Gevgelija I had a delightful encounter with a charming old
man. upon him as I rounded a bend He was riding on In the road.
and his jocund face donkey
swathed
massive Lurd. He raised his hat and I suluted buck.
u Was
1
IT
of
2
believe
to Erzerum and so on to the Iranian border at Maku.
In the evening I went to see the mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk.
diminish their
of friendliness.
好
demonstrations
Addled incessantly with the wireless, trying to pick up what nows I could. The R.A.F. had Though it was late in the day bombed Egyption targets. The I could hardly have chosen 1 government *pokesman botter weary drive. Soveral times 1
moment. The golden phasised they were military nearly fell asleep, but at last we light of the evening gave a rare targets only. Mr Gaitskell had the protest and topped a gentle rise and there quality to the pale yellow stone spoken
The out- Opposition were moving a vode. below lay the glittering lights of the great edifice,
Constantinople.
Poised line of its massive proportions of censure. It was difficult to above them, a crescent
all this columns moon and lofty
were thus appreciate the reality
of softened and a certain air in the midst of the poverty and hung low in the sky
It was could hardly
the beauty around me. Prisants the mystery hung about it.
Were tilling the sunlit earth already past the time that the sight which confronted me, and
with their mausoleum
slothful Iur
vxen. was closed to the moment I thought my
I found deceiving me.
my way Brially, bearded travellers pass- public, and He was much a character that tired
eyes were AC
But ed me, riding on donkeys or in barred by a tall soldier. felt compelled to photograph I realised then that the moon
drawn by bony nags, Bulls Iziz.
wrong way up, but the great iron gate was HC was delighted and was the
"No, "Doutsche?" this didn't in the least diminish ajar. He pushed It gently open, Above, the sky was an immense ked English," I replied "Ah, Lon my first drainulle Impression of and I walked into the solenn, dome of unbroken blue.
It
this in interior
strange donn?" he exclaimed, and once
Ancient capital
of the shrine of the
that almosphere
I passed founder of modern Turkey. Byzantium. more coffed his hat.
through the narrow gorge of But I was Impatient to that Once in Grocce I had no re-
Arst spenil
day-a out at being cast
away from Ankara's atmosphere of Sunday-in Istanbul trying to Greece is a wonder- recuperate. I was installed In of uncertainty, and on the road
D room ink the ful country, which lles under a
city's most again. Next morning I left und hotel, The blue splendid sky of peerless blue.
which looked headed out along the road which leads south to Aksaray, Soon I fight is everywhere. It is east, out over the BOSPHORUS. It
camo upon the first camel I had WDB German, ke a mantle, upon the moun-
contrast to that little
On my journey. at Tuink.
country hotel Ench
had ita merits,
but I found none of the guests being towed by his owner w tination, but I turned aside to was riding on a donkey. I was visit the town of St Paul, the
by the difference in gait struck
The customs officer advised me to go back to Pirot, twenty- five miles away and "schlaffen" -he laid his check against his |—
hands to indicate his meaning, I took his advice. It was at this out of the way little town in southern: Yugoslavia that I passed the night.
The hotel restaurant was full of country people who regarded me kindly but not without some curiosity.
One hefty young nun sprang up from the table Text to me to help me explain to the walter. His three friends followed and sat at my table. We had no common language save
趋 handful of French and Italian words,
An advertisement in English describing
performance
of swallowing gloss
ruzor blades was produced and fingers pointed at the hofty young I pushed an empty ginas over to him. He nodded, plek- ed 11 up and carefully bit of a plece. Ho
munched it be tween his strong whit
white teeth, swallowed the fragments and
them down with washed
of wino. IL was mouthful wrazing and we congratulated him muttering "Phenomene."
D
So to bed
a
Д
COMEONE then produced
It was one of those poun.
made kitchen
of проспн lightish metal.
Again he bit off a plece, and it disappeared Gravely he down his throat. gulped down another mouthful of wine.
It
So it was in happler mood
went up to my room, What was clean and simply furnish- el. There was one red blanket on the best and us it was a cold night I decided to sleep in my clothes. I lay down, pulled the blanket over me and in a moment was fast asleep.
My alarm clock woke me at four next morning. Already
Не
#110
grets Bulgaria,
It persetrates deep into
Trouble on the road the Land-Rover has its third puncture. Top of page: Group Captain Townsend poses with some of the inhabitants of Malatya, Turkey. The cloth cap is much in evidence in the highland beyond Malatya,
Every Tuesday morning it wakes with nothing done, but consoles itself with the thought that, after all, it is only Tuesday. It has all Tuesday, all Wednes-
set off, on an empty stomach, cheerful and to my delight I day, all Thursday, and, at a
found some unknown friends. pinch, Friday morning to pro- duce itself. So what is it worry-way back to Nish, dawn was At one place, where they were
mending the
the road, they called
the countryside was astir. The cocks were crowing lustily, dogs the sea and even the road which before me reflected stretched were barking and one or two
the azur of the sky above. The carts rumbled by in the dark.
were kind and I shaved in cold fresh water and people I saw
the
!
#1
ot
Pirot.
of the Istanbul hotel could est his gites or báté the end off a apooh and swallow it
be
wyna
the Cillelan Gates and descend- the distant lights of ing saw Tursus. Beyond it lay the Mediterranean.
Saint Paul
PARSUS lay just off the road loaded with merchandise and which led to Adana, my de-
д
He
wüs
of the two animals. The donkey Apostle, I went to see the Church of ttupped along in front and the appearances of a thriving fitle St Sofia which
camel followed, Uke its with
brood riding minarets looked more like
afterwards I mot B comel mosque than a Christian church.
out from Carvan serting The Turks when they conquered Istanbul in the 14th century village like a fleet putting to were unwilling to pull down sea. this lovely church, and so they added the minarets to bring ita appearance Into line with their Islamic architecture, In duo course, however, they construct- ed the splendid Blue Mosque, which stands facing St Sola, a decided challenge to it.
Into Asia
Lifted veils
FTER Aksaray the road
was
lawyer,
had bil, the
town.
It was now half-past ship
Ayo and the night was dark, swell. Soon But people
were still busy In the shops. Barbers and tailors were still hard at work. In the high street
passed four carpenters' shops, their owners still plying their trade. St Paul a skilled and learned but he took up the trade ran of wouver to meet by the great lake of Tuz, missionary expenses. I looked which reflected the sun In for signs of this an
ancient trade blinding sheet of light, I met two in the high street of Tarsus, old indies propeiling two reluct but could see none save a shop an! donkeys. They begged some with fine display of
carpets. thing of me, repeating a word I St Paul wove tent-cloth. did
Next day the country began
and change
take on 'a more prosperous look, The people. seemed to change with it and I saw everywhere the black tents of nomad herdsmen and their T flocks of sheep and goats. came across ox waggons of a mos!
The primitive design, wheels were of solid wood, and the creating which came from their burdened axles could bo heard some way off.
ON the Tuesday I rose at 4.30 nulvuly i
and caught the first ferry across the Bosphorus. I had now pussed off the map of Europe and as I drove off the ferry into Asia, a new phase of my journey began
in
that
The majority
country women I passed on the road to Ankara wcro covered. If they drew were not, they quickly
noroes their CHADURU (vell) their faces as the car approach ed. They were all dressed baggy trousers, In compliance with the religious custom no part of a women's body should be shown. I was later told that there has been some reaction to the reforms of Kemez Alaturk in so far as they affect women, and there is a tendency The to go back to the vell, women I saw were extremely shy, and much as I warled to It was a long, Tough Skopje.
steam-roller
parked photograph them I felt it offend- dusty road. 1 passed huge
Its ed them and so was discouraged. find something suitable for light scores of carts, some drawn by squarely athwart my path.
driver descended and came to- There were many buses and The drive commentary, but as events have oxen and some by horses.
A beaming while lorries on the road-and many horses work terribly hard in-wards me, turned most of the papers into
this part of the world.
Some mile t
up his face and he off th. I have never seen horror comics, the column ands
cried out "Mister Towsen; many crashed and broken-down nothing by
condition and good?" "Good" it has done
are in a pitiful the
all of them,
fed and lorries. One had gone clean over I replied draw or good evening.
a bridge into a stream. loads.
back. He seized my The beamed carry
mmense
ing about?
On Tuesday it searches madly through the papers hoping to
at five. As 1 retracel
my
.
breaking.
From Nish I took the road to out and surther on I found a
and
either
A ittle
عليا
Two
On Wednesday it gets SOTNO oxen seem to thrive better, hand and wrung it, and clapped more were lying swashed against roadside, travellers Many
Then be each other at the riding me on the shoulder, were
another hork burst to returned You
roller and and upon donkey's.
of often hear
heavy load people at home
drove ask about a
it out of my way and open under a
coal. horse "Can he carry the weight" waved me on,
In Ankara that evening the Let them consider the patient
Idens but does nothing because It doesn't like the ideas it hne. On Thursday it is in a panic $18.00 and can't remember anything, 18.00 even the ideas it didn't like. 25,00 8.50
25.00
THURSDAY is Sta But as 35.00 D-Day it has to do something: 7.50 Therefore it becomes a snarling,
10.00
•
ass, who seems to be capable of Road of snakes or was full of talk of the Suez
carrying the own weight and half as much again.
A purpose
crisis. I began to think hard about the next part of my REYOND Alexandroupolis I
was met by a curius sight. journey and to take stock of.
the situation. The road was alive with makes.
My hopes of motoring to
I saw scores and scores of Beyrouth and flying from there
not understand. Rather
offered them U to cigarette but they declined,
small change so could had no
1
I drove on,
not satisfy them. and turning back saw the last of them as they trundled over
Just after dark as booked in at the hotel a charming Turkish gentleman addressed mo in excellent French "Mon colonel seemed dges since I had last been addressed thus in Brussels.
to Ke Invited mo
It
}
dinner.
We had an excellent meal and before it was over the Mayor of Malatya who was dining at a nearby table came over
and jained us, He was a young mon with a charming intelligent face. We chatted amiably and wore joined by three or four other young army officers.
Happy people
Turkish, host . suddenly:
"Yes," I replied, "I am a belover." "So em 1," he said, "though in a different way to you" (he was, of course, a Moslem). "But I believe, c'est le principale (that's the main
Marked "Vous etes crobants"
thing),
I remarked that so far in my travels 1 had seen many people living in great · poverty,... yet they seemed happy and were exceedingly kind—a fast which" a pleasure meeting them and often three or four at to Kuwelt and El Riadh looked
led ono to wonder if moré 7.50 scribbling beast, defeating every I was
divilised these travellers all along this a time would writhe out of the remote. I did think I might
and. body in the entire world and
enlightened Somo were
A Creek woman with her peoples were path of my car. I rather cruelly take the rond, which led from cursing anybody who dares to dusty highway.
not putting the 5.00 knock on its door.
alone, either on foot or on don rain over one and hoppat out south-eastern Turkey across a
baby in Xanthi.
wrong things first, and that in. It was, about small neck of Syrian territory the skyline, still reproaching keys, some were in
сных exortă groups to examine it...
increase On Friday it has double about dezing in their rickety carts, two feet long but there were into Iraq and so work down me perhaps, for my lack of happiness by a more abundant 4.50 what it has done and accuses. Some were polars, some were others, both bigger and smaller, through Mosal to Baghdad.
charly felt sorry for them. supply of the things of the 1.00 itself of incompetence. Saturday tinkers, some were merchants, At thres I stopped for lunch, ~*
They were very poor indeed world, they were not i denying 3.00 is the only day free of anxiety but all wore travelling down For the fourth day running" [- Southwards
and very old, One of them had themeciver a happinsan mən 1.50 because has then forgotten, all that road with a purposo, los lunched off a tin of sardines, Ipad,
but Jean
Costly. labout itself,
sinon I was... We, waved a salute to hal, had
stump by sup-
Isaid goodnight to my 1.50
host he handed mo aparcel, one another and passed on our
morning. thar.
Hend the Turkish women containing some; apples and I have come to appreciate the
were excellent and going to Baghdad and insoniy bozma do come out into the bottle of wine, por ; the comradeship
which exista bax
etern' Turkcoralefit Abe children waved. But I was a (World & Copyright? when you come to think of Toft was dark when I res
reached Persia, Alej
K de Makingwing the most terrible Reproduction in whole or kind a fondly Journey from on the frontier at Edirne From Wil the
help of
of the
Spart et strictly mil forbidden On Sale At
and of our lives to the other theo to Constantinople toro Turkish, authorities to sub very he villager I posed „SOUTH CHINA MORNING POST, LTD. analysis; not absement Which it is a plly we do not all warto were still one hundred and fifty plled me which information, and mid and stone dwati bune one another on the way in the miles to go. I hold the good a promies of any help might) on an outerop off rubb2470 kind fashion of travellers of fortune to ba bud by a pilot, car need on the way, 1, made a plan their indobtients this seemed to the KOMT.
brutta sill, ICA was locks and to drive south to Adams, then up, be underportant, and sy ska
Ten Points About Pearls
Points on judging Jade
Outline: Relief Map of China
Asin w
5.E. Asia
Giles Annual, 1956 (Booking now accepted)
HONGKONG;
30 Sunday is probably its worst .30 day because on Sunday it feels .30 obliged to read itself in bed and rardly likes what it roads, Then
crimson face to the wall,
Way
BUT as further reports on the closed the shiple of it the proalcul
tuations: cama through, 21: Copinho decided to abandon the idea of
5.00 It goes hot all over and turns 1w/ twoers travellers Wo nire olulitis: Crysk, wing, totalós, the road which led from open, bb võil "wan lifted" anti, tomorrow," be shiok,?!
So Sunday is a day of self-
is as it should be, of cosmes,
KOWLOON
(Wenkä nourriably be
"were untidy, climbers of
TOMORROWALE Crossing to