THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 25, 1956.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
NEW ITALIAN CREATIONS SHOW
First Row-Three-Quarter Length Coats, Capuccl: From the front, this model appears to be a simple one-piece dress, but from the back I looks as IC 1835 worn with a matching three-quarter length coat. Made in a very dark brown wool fabric, it is trinumed with a large white collar. Guidi: A similar effect to that achieved in the above mudel is seen here in this three-quarter length coat in high blue berringbons patterned wool. Marueriti: ¡right red wool fabric is used for this three-quarter length straight sporty topcoat.
Second How-Talldred Sults. Capucci; A deep slit in the centre back softens the line of this otherwise straight salt. Veneziani: The collarless loose-fitting jacket of this sult has bloused fulness at the back held in by a band round the hips. Schuberth: A full-blown roso adorns the back of the targe white collar on a youthful-looking mult, Carosa: Sults of this house feature long slender bodices with short gathered basques standing out over slim skirts,
Third Row-Dressen. Veneziant: "Capricious" is the name given to this line with its long slender ludice and fall, bell-shaped skirt. Marucelli: The Mors Line Laken the form of alim dresses at this house which are worn with short caper In a contrasting colour. Veneziani: In contrast to the Capricious Line in some dresses, this designer also has very slim ones with chemise tops. Note the detail
the back, Interest at Antonell: Three-tiered skirts are a feature of cocktail dresses at this house,
Fourth Row-Full-length Coats, Carosa: A similar line to that which this designer las adopted for suit jackets is seen in this cont. The long slender collarless bodice extends almost to the knee and then the skirt shoots out as a deep flounce. Guidi: The Ghibellino Line is shown here in this aim, straight cut coat with an enormous cape collar reaching to the elbows. Maruccill: Ribbon is slotted in a band round the ahoulders of this coat to give a yoke eДeet and the name trimming is repeated round the hipline. Capucci: A novel touch at this house are coats which bulton down the back.
MARKED INDIVIDUALITY
INSTEAD of creating new
of
at
By GINA POPESINA
ard
An Illusion
arc
сот-
fited
o
VES
As
Let's face it...
an all weather coat is simply essential at all times and we have the finest selection of
Rain'n Shine
Corduroys,
Gabardines,
Twills and
coats in town.
Corded Failles.
in colours that are planned, blended or harmonized in contrasting shades..
. every one actually storm proof . yet specially treated to offer the very maximum
of air circulation underneath.
some with matching hats and umbrellas
from $145.00 only
at
Paquerette Ltd.
Fabrics used in this colloetion include Shetlands, wool shan- linea in their
tungs, basket and, hopsack wool spring-summer collections appear on the revers. Another a three-quarter matching jocket while colours are mainly pastel, Italian couturiers have con- tailored sult, this time in Glen niso, allt from waist to hem in with a touch of navy blue and centrated on developing Urquhart check worsted, has a the centre back. This, however, red.
The
models nt Emilio their individuality on last large tle of black faille at the is merely an illusion because the
A neck.
number Df Guils. "Jacket" finishes at the side gehuberth are designed with a feattere Jackets with year's formula.
The model Is long scams.
(but not mouldri) long bodices and At Marucelli, models in alender
a large whito pique bodies find and farly full skirts, short pleted by
Last month, this designer pre- rich fabrics take on the gathered basques standing out collar.
Fern green is ono over narrow skirts,
of the pared a complete collection for of airiness
angels;
Topeonia, too, have a similar colours which is particularly Empress Sorays of Persia. Schuberth, they are solemn and imperial, often adorned with a long narrow bodice prominent in this collections. a result, he has dediemet his extended to just above the knee Ethers are black, white, brown, spring-summer collection to the "Imperial Rose." Practically with roses; at Antonelll, and the fulness of the skirt yellow and purple.
every model is adorned with en they are silm but at the either in picals or gathers. One
artificial rose. For instance, a mudel ja li block same time well-curved; at such
Wook suit with a fitted jacke; and gored skirt has fuil-blown Carosa, frivolous; at Guidi, white small checked worsted, In
there
clothes, where interest is The "Ghibelline" is the name classic; at Capucel, irresis- concentrated towards the hem given by Gulds to his latest line. rate attached to the back of the tible; and ut Veneziani, line, bodices are very simple Main features of this are high large white collar of the jucket. large number of models ap- and often collurs are replaced neckllues after the Myle withy.
T peared
the collection of by patched banda and button those worn in the 13th century Veneziani Muria ንገኒ
dificult collertion
and It and enormous cape collars Antonelli Bas
influenced trimmings.
to pick out a dominant line or berti
theme. Fabrics widely used at this reaching down to the elbows on
Ono ne, called the Dv the harmony of Flemish
from Include herringbone straight topcoats buttoning
"Capricious," featured dresses e nuts and her long bodices are house
waist to hem. Fabrics favoured " Shetlands, mclane inspired by figures in the paint patterned
this designer
are with slim, elongated bodices and of Comprd and Mudiginal, wrels, finely-patternet worsteds by
Colours Gre her latent line, the ad wool felta.
worsteds for tailored sults and full, bell-shaped skirts.
are She
Here the hips are
pastel mody
and hopstek wools and ever, other dresses suci Bottle Lbre.
As ochre, drcases
slim with chemise tops, but
and light tweeds for coats. The
Detall Ivory, turquoise,
interest pleasantly
rour ded,
mauve,
"Alry" and "angelie" are two found at the back This
Vanity-green, with some bright bustline remains slender.
terms which have been used to rather than the front. Tine
red,
describe the collection of example, sults have loose-nting | 7755EEBSDSSSSSSSE3D Marucell This is largely on uften collarless jatkols withi account
of the ribbons, braids bleused fulless at the back held and sasher which are used to in by a band round the hips.
For trim many of the models. instance, a dress in navy blue lightweight wool has deep sash or bright red wool which
TEXTILES can be considered clutely envelopes the shoulders as a "laison" between high and
buttons et the side.
fashion and ready-made clothes. collarless, loote-Ating top The couturier and the wholesale
Is slofted cout a wide ribbon round the shoulder fine to give de arm often use the same fabric. Moreover, the home the effect of " yoke; this dressmaker can also buy this
repented feature
hip- fabric.
For the coming The line in this collection has Italy, there are many new and mainly reverted to the Conte interesting texlies. Once again, volvulus Line-narrow at the wool fabrics command a pro- shoulder and wide at the hem— minent place because of their but a new Une makes its ap- smooth and easy handling, high
in the form of pearance
and beautiful colouring. quality capes worn ove"
Shelland cloths are particular. often in contrasting colour, The capes begin at the tip of the shoulder, extend to elbow length, and have double- breasted fastening.
tollered
Gre
15 mest apparent un coats and dresses, but diminishes on
which sulta smouthly moulded to the figure and very feminine, with many interesting detalls,
One of this designer's loved sults La
sand coloured Shetland with pattern of pinhead brown checks. A wide lung Slender ecklac with lepels enhances the shunt, atted Jacket apd the straight skirt has an inserted band near the hem trimmed with tabs at the side zeama.
A New Line
collection which The Italian roused the most enthusiasm was that of the young designer Roberto Capucci. After the show he Was flooded
with orders from buyere from all over the world.
His Butts have short, semi- Atted Jackets with wide collars which almost cover the shoulders, and deep slits in the centre back. Skirts are slim Almost all her overcoats have and smooth, HIB topcoats straight bodices, with the skirts fasten down the back instead of hanging
in tucks, pleats, UT the front, Dresses are richly hers at the ther
skles from draped and often made in wool horizontal stam just below up jersey. level. Coat
which
Considered by colinrs
many
be considerably
shape, the vary
most interesting model stand away wom the neck. A throughout the entire
Italan parteuturly attractive cunt in collections is a coat dress by this collection 19 $0 a soft this designer in deep brown sof1 yellow wool fabric. It features wool. From the front it is just a group of fat picats on such a slim-skirted tailored dress but hip, which are itched for a from the back it appears to have
way down and ther
༣: ༦༣
allowed to flow freely. Fabricg user In this collection include Shetlands, tweeds, wool toiles and all types of lightweights.
A Change
Frivolous and utterly feminine is the actall erest supplied by designer
Princess Glovanna This is a Caracciolo at Carona,
the considerable change from
the which la collection in
were very severe and Styrs woyer.
The specialty of this house is undoubtedly their tailored suits, A black and white pinhead cheek worsted was chosen for a nettle mult, the jacket of which has a wide white collar with Unes of narrow bluck braid round the edge; buttons
The Dream Fur Of Every Girl
AT
one wears ELS
By ANNE EDWARDS
we're
T least two other furs "Why did you go into Alms?"* something big on in London, after I'd like Buckingham Palace recep- "I went into films nre more expensive, tried schoolteaching, counted up tens
state visits, well, and
looked at the price booked out in mink," my money, several are more becoming. of a mink coat and said to Last Christmas, all their 60
mink stoles were hired out. But mink holds its own-the myself it cannot be done."
We even send them to places
British Forces
dream of every girl, good A mutation sapphire mink like Sheffield, Northampton,
or bad.
Although three-quarters af the mink coats sold in Britain are bought by good respectable business men for their good re- spectable wives, half the charm
stule costs £5,000. An Imitation Jersey and the sapphire mink stole costs £50. in Germany. We also hire out
to of Mamie a kot of mink ties brides' So imagine the fury Eisenhower who saw her muta- inothers."
mink described in the tion
(Cost is eight to ten guineas a English papers as Imitation. tie, plus £50 deposit, plus 11
from the banker's reference.)
of mink for a woman is that it Said the woman
has never lost that aura of bad- hire department, Mrs Phyllis For the low-down on muta- blendinêsa summed
Edwards: "Whenever
up in
celebrated Peter Aino curloon.
Oh Mr Witherspoon" Bays the high-power blonde whose Daddy has Just Sugar
given her a mink cont, "mere words will never repay you, i guess,"
Look how it is, always mlak that makes the news,
The Queen has three. Princess Margaret has two. Ex-Queen Nariman in her hey-day
12.
had
THE MAGNET George Jessel, comedian, says when he married showgirl Lela Andrew she had 24 mink coats. Publicity minks that have been worth their money. Mariene Dietrich's trench coat in white mink. Diana Dors's mink Bikini. Constance Smith's minic
panties under # mink akirt,
011
Most expensive mink record was Eva Peron's sapphire miak£37,710, und that was
West End Hari, top turtler, reports mink is the casles! fur of all to sell.
Alb
"A customer will come in to my shop ankl say "My husband says I'm to have a mink conf- and that's that,
"They've been
told
•
there's tion mink see the chart below.
MISS MUTATION AND ++++
HER LITTLE MINKS
THIS word
Whon
the
"mutation." crossed with mutation It means any variation males, Result; ALL from the normal brown
"hybrids" are dark young mluk.
coloured tut: the first place you In get the natural mutation about one mlak in 250,000. But now on mink farms scieniiats nro Ireeding mutation mink to order.
Like thin-filintrated right; In the first year standard dark females are
FIRST YEAR
SECOND YEAR
exactly the
THIRD YEAR
how much to spend and men leave it to their wives to choose, As long as she's happy they're satisfied."
Hosalind Russell nives this straight gruwer to the question.
Hybrid females aro crossed with mutation males
ond half of their young are mutations the other half hybirds,
Next
mutation females crowned with mula- tion males. ftemalt: ALL mutation.
X X X
two
صرفه العام
Bentoli
to
“
level.
Varditevere
Myjnice
at
"slim dr. nort
Myricae: A wool skiri in heavy wool velour trimmed with enormous patch pockets Joined by a buttoned tab. Valdileyere: This skirs in two-toned twood is trimmed with alternate short and long vertical bands of black malin. Umba: -This skirt in a rough wool fabric is also trimmed with bende Myricke: The largo pátch of black astin in a novel desiati. pockets are made of the same fabric as the skirt, but 478, finely pleated, with flaps in the plain fabric. Bertoll! The edge or each panel in this gored skiri of cream wool drape is sewn with mult-coloured traid and embroidered with bright sequins.
If You're Emotionally Upset,
Stay Away From The Wheel
DON
✔
_nous
How-
very
18
is usually
of models
For
A Liaison
Season
in
ly important. In medium, light or extra light weights they have slightly nubbed or rough sur- faces. Some are in one colour only; others combine two OF ore tenes softly blended to- gether; while othera feature stripes. The latter are one of the most outstanding novelties in the Italian spring fabric range.
Also very much in evidence are Cheviot wool fabrics in de- licate colours such as beige, and sky blue. Many of theso feature a herringbone design and being widely used for spring suits and
are
tailored topcoats.
A Favourite
Incidentally, the favourite fabric for conts this season in Italy is white wool boucle. Also very popular are wool gaber- dines, matted wool fabrics with a slightly rough surface and rather loose weft,, basket and hopsack weave wools
Very lightweight wool poplins are available in plain or fancy patterns. These in- clude bold stripes, small or large checks in pastel colours and sprigged mo's reminiscent of flowered muslin. Other pro minent fabrics in the light- Wht wool.brocades,
field include facquar
and
and
newsworthy
Д
are wool tussores processed in the same way a Shetland fabrics, wool toiles with a surface similar to that of knit- and wool georgette stif- fened like organdie with special starch treatment.
Fabric coloura for spring-time include belge, very light "hazel, corn yellow, fog, charcoal, cloud grey, walnut, scarlet, peony red, very light bluc, myrtle, BOES, cypress green, black and white,
cream,
An Essential
MONE are the days when a Or skirt and jumper was the fort of outfit one donned only
for such things as lounging about at home in the evening or doing the housework.
Separates have
become Integral part of tho
smart modern woman's wardrobe be cause of their ability to ring as
an
many changes as possible at a minimum outlay. They are worn at all times of the day on all occasions from a monting on the beach to a gala evening, and they are now given as much attention by fashion designers as coals, dresses and suits.
Wool felt is an ideal fabrio for skiris. It is light in the Summer and warm in the winter. It can be worn in the daytimo and then by merely changing the top, it can go on to an
New York, in accidents are pliysically ON'T argue with your and pert the wheel. They
husband. You may be vehele ser
long overthrew ther caualvening date.
most im- But perhaps the driving him, to his, death on alertness and judgment...
WWhen
know
portant thing abʊui feit skirts the highway later.
Potte emotione are at d, deprod is that they can be made s One expert said that emotions, point, be extra careful,” he said, cahily at home, oven by those
"Betler Bilil slay out of your inexperienced with [al tipuota" may paliwo Las many.
highway weeśderita os
alto pripet, A motorlate bind needle.
you want to make your felt Root enemies are his own for ook weally new and dif- driving or mauilly brakes.
Leonard Mr. van Noppen, who in MEN
current that He urged couples to evolá dos teretik, tako look at the
trimmings
skirts www 80,000,000 millen suurly) medic, prucecie especiallygu 1) | From: Taly' (meg alchich, at 10ft). tha meming, when one of many a novel and could be so
easily copied,
Lihousands of, motorists. Involved
thero
а
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