THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, OCTOBER
8, 1955.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
The Longer Bodyline
ME
For their autumn-winter collections German couturiers have decided on the long-bodied look with slight figure emphasis. In some instances this means a softly. moulded hipline with no accent on a slim waist. By MAGDA MEYER
trend towards
greater
and
Interesting woollers luxurious für trimming play a prominent role in this collection. The The feeling for wool jersey is alro strongly marked
evening a draped
drosmes in 13 loose-Otting and the largo "Grecian-style, which looks as collar and revers, which extend elegance in though it will be a very popular to the waist are trimmed with German fashion, which was one wit
with German women this block Persian lamb. the apparent in
summer winter.
пре Conta mid-season couture coller-
Bly lexi on the lines angk tions, continues
<implest
feature the In
straight, set-in sleeves, classic autumn winter
presenta- dollar and revera. Occasionally tions.
they are trimmed with fur от sweater hove patch pockets placed on decorative the side seams for
of Mill effect. The simplicity the desiens enhances the fancy- patterned fabrica which the couturiers have used.
While the youthful Ir with a long torse and owinging pleated skiri Important in many collections, It be a number of new charne- Frum these emerge *erieties. the Caruque or tunic line, which is last interpreted in suls mil
Cont
i11 shorter-than-long
leng*hs,
and Jackets have clasic uphenrince as far as the wast, with collar revers and Harrow, set-in dreves, but the basque extends to the thigh or eve: to knce-length, thus allow- ing for a variety of treatments. Often it stands away from skirt or juls forward or side ways at the hem and is given Additional emphasis by means of Pugo pockets or inock pocket flops.
tha
Sometimes the basques of suit jackets are comparatively short In front, but dip to a low curve nt the back. Six-eighths length conts are trimmed with deep bonds of fur round the hem line, thus helping to make it stand There away from the body. are dresses, too, in the camaque style. These took
though they have two skirts one just shewing beneath the other
2:6
Big News
Cant dresses with either slim or full skirts are big news. They are somewhat reminiscent of last year's Princess line. Skiri fullness is swept to the back and gathered into low- placed half-belt, giving a regal Bir to the wearer.
...
Many day dresses feature banas, loba or pockets at hip level while others have buckled bits placed just beneath the bust line in the Empire style, The waist line in clearly sug- gentext in
these dresses although the bodies extends to the hip. The favourite fabrics
One Are
woollens. often with a melange effect.
for there
The
Casaque Style
on
Schwichtenberg Hermann favours wide, unbroken panels in all types of models, with little detail interest, thus allowing the fabrics to be the main attrac- tion. Preference in this tion is given to multi-coloured wool flammea. Dress weight worls are often teamed with matching
but heavier weight
The
The casual suit. styled Youthful Ines. with a brief
Casaque style is incket shaped in to tho waist much in evidence here. The and a straight skirt or with a lengths of jackots vary CON- straight hip-length lacket and siderably. One Fult hee A PIL all-round pleated skirt double breasted Jacket of (which proved 50 successful moderate length but with a In-t scuron) is re-appearing an basque which stands away from many winter ranges,
the hips at the sides giving it
D1
As regards fabrics generally strong resemblance to a riding for the coming
season, the jacket. A large
flapped patch emularity et tweed for daytime pocket on either side further weur has not diminished. The stress the stand-away effect most popular types fro Shet Another fashion house which, Tands. closely followed by favours ensembles for the
Dy multi-coloured boucle tweeds. coming season is Horn-Modell. Long-haired fleecy woollens and who specialise in
#Darts-wear zibelines are most important for and travel-wear.
Fabrics coals, while vigoureux flannel different patterne and colours and closely-woven wools top the are used together to obtain list of dress fabrles. Glen Interesting contrasts. Double checks are being given prefer- iced woollens--lain and flecry ene for tailored suits.
on one side and plaid
the other are of particular signill- cance in this respect.
The individual autumn-winter collections of the main German designers can be summed up as follows:
on
Classic Silhouette
어
Gehrluger & Glupp shows wide variety of silhouettes with Although here there is some the casaque line given particular evidence of the casaque lino, prominence. Great resourceful- there are a number of models in ness is shown in dealing with the now familiar sweater line, colour combinations and un- with its semi-fitted top and full, usual fabric alliances.
pleated skirt. One dress in this For instance, a three-colour is in beige knopped tweed. The shepherd's checked wool is used bodice is trimmed with for a
two jacket which Illustrates spped patch pockets at busi- the new casaque line. This is level and n band of cocoa- fitted and classic in style as far brown satin round the lips. It as the waist, with a black velvet is worn with a loose-fitting with matching jacket completely lined collar, and is fastened
The pep- with fur. A seven-eighths length three large buttons.
mas out and extends to cont in feeey wool with Persian
lamb collar is in the thigh-level.
ensanuo line. A fitted sult in a tweed of Sholland
the suma colour as the coat accompanie
Simple Look
it.
new
The Importance of two- and ensembles is very Thru plece
This fashion silouette has
undergone much stressæd by Staube-Seger, not
such severe who also favour the casaque changes at Modellhaus Schwabe. Une ensemble conslets of Here most attention has been
at press and cost in black and given to colour and fabric com- while speckled 1 weed. The binations. Long-haired fabrics
aro
HORN MODELL
DEHRINGER & GLUFT
TANK-State
Amandy.
SCHWICHTENBERO
STANE-STOCK
ANNOUNCEMENT:-
Págé" 9"
Paquerette Ltd. will be closed
for additional renovations and installation |of new air-conditioning units as from 1 p.m. Saturday, 8th October, thru Wednesday, 12th October, 1955.
We reopen again, on Thursday, 13th October with a completely new Autumn selection in the most ravishing and exciting of fabrics
not only in our popular
Gown Dept.
but also in our newly
installed Co-ordinate, Separates, Sportswear and Maternity Depts.
Meanwhile, for all immediate pur-
chases, deliveries or enquiries, please apply
to our sister store →→
Chest Ltd.
The Linen
will be given to your requirements.
3 Chater Road.
It has * TOP LEFT: A suit with the new iunie Jacket. In vlotet-coloured wool, large collar and deep basque of black Persian lamb, the latter emphasising the stand-away line; by Gobringer & Glupp.
combines
TOP CENTRE: A Travel ensemble consisting of a slim wool Jersey dress and loose- Atting topcoat. The latter is made from double-faced material-and-coloured plain fleece an the outside and blue-green check on the inades by Horn Modell.
which
1wo black wool dress-and-jacket ensem ze in TOP RIGHT: A important fashion points. First the Empire line of the sheath dress achieved by the buckled band beneath the bust, then the tunic line of the jacket, emphasised by a large pocket of
hip: Persian lumb
by Staebe-Seger. on either LOWER LEFT: most
A Interesting coat and-dress ensemble in black and Illac tweed, based on the trumpet line. The coat fastens at the back and is designed on exactly the same lines as the dress beneath it, except that it ends where the pleste in the skirt of the dress fan out just about knee level; by Behwichtenberg.
In anthracite-coloured LOWER RIGHT, This celegant dress-and-jacket ensemble is wool trimmed, with grey Persian lamb. The braque of the Jacket is quite short in front but dips in a low curve at the back: by Staebe-Seger.
The afternoon dress, which was oasted for a time by smart enektall frock returns to favour once more. Its come. back ly due to the current trend be dilee of the slim-fitting dress ere favoured for coats, while for it more lady-like" look In extends from high at the neck
hondling "materials dry fashion, The j£ཡ
afternoon right down to the thighs and chosen for dress-and-Jacket en- dreeses are invariably slim and perfectly, plain except for a sembles. Lavish uno is made of Lauer-Bohlendorff prefers the trimmed with fur. One such are double-breasted with long considerable use is made of bulton tab at the neck and a rich fur trimmings,
wool Empire and Princess silhouettes, model is in black
rep rows of buttons and stand-up Such pocket bows and shaped effects.
either hip. (In-
Russian in- Sults styled on classic Unes
any youthfulness of stylo is a trimmed with a deep band of collars, revealing dresses call for soft,
cidentally, fluid
the simple, un are teamed with loose conts. cluttered look is one
special feature of this collection. Peralan Jamb round the hem of spiration. Others have elongated fubrics. Thus wool
basques. the main double-faced fabric with camel- All his models have a demure, the jacket.
Among the fabrics supple wool crepes and wool features about this new casaque coloured
fleecy wool one side ladylike air, which is largely
used, confetti and other fancy jerseys predominate in this field, line.) The skirt of this dress is and blue plaid on the reverse is achieved by using fluid fabrics. Buits form the greater part of, tweeds-particularly in autumnal
very slim and buttons through worn aver a seml-fitted suit of Ho includes
Next la many
dress-and the collection of Hains Oester-shades-predominato. Effective use is also made of to the hem. A matching six- blue tweed, which tones In with jacket ensembles, the Jackets aard. He has given the jackets order of importance come her- wool
jersey for
eighths length coat worn over it the plaid colouring.
often having elongated basques of these varied treatment. Some ringbone and check patterns,
georgette,
intricately
оп
Smart Satin Ensemble
TIl18 two-piéce ensemble consisting of a prinɔ̃ög aktin drops in yellow and green fowery sattery and a yellow coloured salin cost is from Carren. The drem "has a new neckline and a fitting bedion; full walbēru vardų at» (he`hip-jev#{%
Matriarchy In An Italian Town
W
FIL
Bognora'a matriarchy
grew out of the days when husbands were away on long fishing ex- cursions and the women lied to take over.
Spots?
where every attention
Tel. 21.050.
spots and pimples in adolescence cause months or years of misery. Neglect may lead to permanent carring. Why suffer needlessly? Eskamel' gets rid of spots quickly. More than this, 'Eskamel hides the spots at once. It gives you back your good looks instantly. Ask your chemist for 'Eskamel"
Eskamel
freak
Made in England
Conceals as it heals
Trade Enquiries to: John D. Hutchison & Co. Ltd., King's Building, Hong Kong
HONG
KONG SOCIETY FOR THE
PROTECTION OF CHILDREN
(WOMEN'S AUXILIARY)
Under the Distinguished Patronage of His Excellency Sir Alexander Grantham, G.C.M.G.
PRESENTS AN
INTERNATIONAL CONCERT
AT
THE LEE THEATRE
ON
WEDNESDAY, 12th OCTOBER, 1955
AT
9.30 P.M.
TICKETS: $10, $7.50, $5 & $1
Bagnara Calabra, Italy,
women stepped only when all eyes sald, "Prove it." Then with Yot the women of Bagnara WOMEN really
she are the dressed up in their most allur the ferry boats were sunk as a a walk as stately as that of a
The Miss Universe contestant. result of the bombings. bosses of the families in nery with plenty of frilis shortage of olive oil in northern went off on a shopping expedi-
and hopped crowded ferry, Italy, however, gave the women tion to Mossina. in this picturesque seaside No one bothered them en route a new opening for the smuggl- resort, snuggled between to Bicily; the trouble started ing business. the mountains and the sen when they got back to Italy with their cargoes of sall, Police on the toe of the Italian on the stort couldn't search all peninsula.
the women, for they used to Despite the fact that the For the town of neur voyage back and forth in such Italian railroad was a mass
How long the matriarchy will large numbers. This of course wreckage, two days after the last no one can guess, Since the ly 9,000 inhabitants, was feminine strategy.
end of the war in April, 1945, war Bagnara has become matriarchy has been a way Tire small bags of salt usually a group of Bagnare women was fashionable resort and men now of living for years. The were stowed under frilly bodices seen at the Brenner Pass, sali find more work. And a bridge mother'is recognised as the prin
the dng olive oil to the local popu- being built across the Messina PROFESSOR ARRIGO FOA of a flowing, ruffled Ition.
Stralis will bring more of the MADAME LOLA CHANG head of the family, or tribe, inner side of pockets on
skirt.
modern life to the town. and descent and kinship are. Regardless
the MRS. JOHN MCNEILL of tho Allied Asked whether smuggling Already, visitors notice, traced through the mother bombings of Bagnam Calabra still goes on in Bagnara Calabra women are leaming about nail and Messina in World War II, today, one of these Italian polish, television and beauty instead of the father.
The amazons the smuggling went on,
with piercing black contests-United Press.
Centuries of predominance of the female and unemployment have discouraged focal mon from asserting what the world- wide majority of males bellovo to be their right,
The women are known for their dusky-eyed beauty and Marilyn Monroo figures. But they also are reportedly s aggressive
Q Madagascar pirate. Smuggling
is one their more practised arts.
and
the
NOW GENTLEMEN PREFER
PARIS,
BRUNETTES
A 17-year-old dancer is now interest in brunetten.
1
on sale at MOUTRIES & LEE THEATRE (Also Town Booking Office)
ARTISTS APPEARING:
PROFESSOR. HARRY ORE MARY RICHARDSON PRÓFESSOR F. 1...STRASSER
POPULAR PUBLICATIONS.
Chinese Croeds & Customs
$18.00
Enjoyable Cookary
15.00
Baby Book
25.00
This is Hong Kong
8.50
The Hongkong Countryside (Herklots). Hongkong Birds (Herklots)
25.00
35.00
Coronation Glory
7.50
|
King George VI
1.50
ir's Fun Finding Out --- 2nd series
(Bernard Wicksteed)
5.00
5.00
4.00
1.00
No Hiding Place (Behind Scotland Yard) Common Marino Food-Fishes of Hongkong
(second enlarged ́edition).
10.00
24.00
$3.00
15.00
1.50
1.30.
Ruport 1955 Annusl Rupert Adventure Book Rupert Magazinos
Detesting the gales and parties sliating frown eyes have set up
which, by tradition, all the top attend, Her drst appearance in the Paris models must always the most Lavin-Castillo Buddenly
tiona
sent she lives quietly with her mother talked-about model in Paris. bades tatt off blondes to their in Montmartre and practises her The women works at every-Hundrede of women are hat dressors to rinses and up- ballet steps in between Ittings. EXOTUMSO, which thing they take care of Junior, Imitating her colouring and to soil-looking beauties with the declares helps to keep her
plications that woula turm thêm Hor favourite the lemon and onante crops make churconi, "name" for her gliding, dancer's walk. ulso-black hair Tke Dany's. 19-inch waist mipple, is to walk tunny, which abounds in
with. hoss Dany Bassenave, PUZZLING
shoulders erect, Tyrrhenian Ben,
mannequin-vedetto, is the New make-up was granted to squared back and bust thrown The Bagnara women, stok. themselves quite
for only old set bit the new brunettes. Deny out just so the does when she la #reputation reason
little make-up... Nor showing snuggling walt' Bicity fashioned gentlemen pre- wou very
Since the
collatione began, Into Itak forord the Mosaina ferring blondes in Paris to terrory-pine petice, many hu
do Lake her they
has worked something day, which a boiter: price because of the day, Hardly anyone else hay even us more and includes at and so for
instead a
bollection ing the
Siraila., Salt sold in fialy brings
· Minos. Chelates on, Athames · Knigos, enskar Kepykloserponi pančit photographw, as well as present.
late monopoly. But to get it does, Into Italy, he enlarglar has to p clude the eficient Itaon dinseco
and has
Stamp Albums Waights & Measurements Ten Feinté About Pearls Points on Judging jade
On Sale At
guards, and fought, be stor dresser Gullaume chose her to tailorg bisscoays find the new averaged about 136,000 SOUTH CHINA MORNING÷POST, LTD.
c) lows the mit supply and i wear hia-new jewel-hald, Thiama aber sovet for bruosnier rother month in erlary and extrast.com may Jangulah in anol for several |dairəsiyik, her slenic black obla• your.
mon, pade, odliva-inted skin" dat
HONGKONG
WILSON
Kowloon