Page
BY THE. WAY.
by Beachcomber
Hen in America
JAVING notleed that sports- for matches was bluntly refused Dre In by the headmaster yesterday. clined to Bloot ench
Smart-Allicit said: "The other, Dr
has already instead of the birds and beasts system of bribery
with
THE CHINA MAIL, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 1955.
CHESS PROBLEM
By P. MONREAL V
Black, 9 pieces,
they are hunting, the Izank commercialised school sport to Walton League is asking hunt the limit of what is decently was to wear scarlet hats permissible. Pay for evertime
would convert what in a gaine very broad brims.
albeit rather a dirty one-into purely nancial operation. ream is no excuse for an attack Professionalism In the class-
status of pur on the amateur cleven. Surely the team nfakes enough by the normal practice of betting on the matches, praising advertised equipment, White to play: mate in two. and selling
strips of the play- Ing Belds to building contractors. We must not forget that it was problem: with the money received for a tribute to Snibho Lid, that our 1, Kt (B2)-KI. I... R-K3; 2, captain was able to arrange for (K13);
B-K3, 2, us to beat Millbridge last month.
They
The ion is that a sportsmin who encounters
a man in this hat will hesitate to shoot, saying to himself, "One πισπισης Animals don't wear scarlet hats.
bo a human being fun will begin when animal lovers
clap scarlet hats everything they can find. You will hear one sportsman say to another, as he points to an elk in a scarlet hat, "Surely we can't all be animals!"
Mrs Wretch sume up
I'
O
T seems very short-sighted to
employ Italiana
and Aur-
trians in our coat-mines, when
they can so easily go to Betglun
White, 10 pieces,
Solution
to
yesterday's
BxKB; ... Kt-K3; 2, K1X B
WOMANSENSE
from the
Italian autumn-
The general line that emerges from winter collections is a long, narrow silhouette with tend
tunic
towards
the Empire or slightly flared
ITALY CHOOSES THE
TUBE LOOK
By GINA POPESINA -
And he had thought left over to (ch): 1 ... P-K3; 2, K1XKB.THE Italian designers who the silhouette from bust to hem Imitation of beaver fur purchase a in the for his brother."
to dig the coal which need Songs of Innocence
to import. The solidarity of
the working-classes" does not The brief illusion's at an end.
mean that Englishmen need be
so friendly to foreigners.
-Mrs Wretch.
Overtime at Narkover
A
DEMAND by the Narkover cricket eleven for overtime pay when extra time is allotted
JACOBY
ON BRIDGE
Villain Aces Peril Came Bid
By OSWALD JACOBY
PERHAPS
you wonder how South managed to get all the way up to game on his miserable hand, but his bidding was real-
ly quite sound. It was clear that
It seems that, in our peaceful
We dreamed
we were allowed
sleep
to spend What money we're allowed to
keep.
comes a little But, Though it
late,
There is big news for you and
me:
The Government's declared
state
#J
Of dangerous prosperity. The moral's clear-t is indeed, Work harder still and break
our backs
money you will
To warn the seed To pau [x.
your higher income
TARGET
O
OE
DSH
H L U
How many
words of toor letter er more con you make from the letters in the
dare on the left? in making each word, the lettera iD each of the small squares may be used once only. Each word, must contain the large letter in the centre sciare, and there must be at least one nideletter word in the t. No plurnis; no foreign words: no
TODAY'S Proper names. TARGET: 28 "word", good : #1 words, very good; 92 words excellent. Solution tomorrow.
YESTERDAY'S SOLUTION: Agop agony along ongel angle eagle elcov engage
vale
galeeny gang gange gaol gene GENEALOGY plean pics plen pogi pone sono pula leggy logan long. prez ogle.
YOUR BIRTHDAY ....... By STELLA
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15
North had about 16 to 18 points PORN today, you are destined
You Bre usually calm in a
in high cards, since the overcallo infirence the world either crisis and rather shrewd when
of one no-trump shows about the
doed UF
paths when
You
the it comes through
to making decisions;
suna stength as an opening bid originality of your ideas. You You are good at getting all the of one no-trump, It was alsu
was ist have a great store of energy
and evidence and weighing facts, clear that
hat North had a good fit will utilise it to further your
pro and con, before you make for spades and very little
wasted ambitions.
You would know pretty a definite decision. strength in clubs. When you add much what you want and will make geed delective, reperier, the fact that North's Strength was behind the opening bidder, out directly to get it. You awyer or jurist.
to take any side which meant that most finesseure not one
Your strongly developed love are headed you would probably work, it becomes
want nature demands that you wed Loward something clear that South was sure to
you
at an early age, for you are intensely. have a reasonable play for his
happiest when you have your gine contract,
Sincere and frank in all your own home and family groups. West opened the jack of clubs, contacts with people, you are
this date Among these boni cn put up the king, Enstone to be trusted to defend those are: James Fenimore Cooper and covered with the ser, and South who are, in turn, loyal to you. Robert. Benchley, author";
Declarer finessed the, however, you rulted.
suspect that William
Howard Tatt; U.S. queen of spades successfully, someone is playing you false or President; Bruno Walter, con- expected, and then abandoned is veretly plotting against you, ductor: Richard Olncy, states- trumps to knock out the ace of no one can be a more drastic or man; Diaz, Mexican statesman; diamonds,
nery Weat
Weiss, enemy. You spare nothing Albert led another club, and
psychologist; until you have brought your Zachariah Allen, scientist. South ruffed again. South now enemy to heel. Often, you even
make a friend that way.
WEST AK 10 8 VA54
• AB
J
J 10972
East
NORTH MAQS ♥KJ9
K984 AK43
-13
EAST (D) 442
8832 +53 4AQ805
SOUTH AJ9763
Q107
◆ QJ 1072
* None
Neither side vul.
South West North
JN.T.
Pass Pass 1
24 24 3
3 a Pass 14 Double Pass "Pass Paxs
Opening tead- J
led a heart to dummy's king and continued with a second heart, forcing out West's ace. West Jedn third club, and South rufted for the third time.
Only now South could' afford to lend a second trump to dum- Jny's ace, Declarer then left the king of spades at large and went about his business of cashing Evod diamonds. West could ruff with the high tramp whenever he pleased, but
dunnny's last trump would then assure declarer of the rest of the tricks.
South would lose the contract he led a seconil trump before knocking out both of the red
For example, apes,
suppose Houth draws one trump, knocks out the ace of diamonds, and then draws a second trump and runs the diamonds. West dis- two hearts and a club,
To and what the stars have in store for you tomorrow select your birthday star and read the corresponding paragraph. Let your birthday star be your daily
You have a happy-go-lucky and hearty nature which gives you the capacity to laugh at the world and yourself at times. guide.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16
not have seen for a VIRGO (Aug. 24-Sept. 23)- you may The morning hours
well considerable time.. Но
to CAPRICORN enough, but you may need
(Dec, 23-Jan. use diplomacy and toet during 20)—If you will use your leisure evening hours.
time profitably you may develop a new skill which раув dividends.
05
LIBRA (Sept, 24-Oct. 23)- Your imagination as well courage and will to act upon it at once can bring you unexpected
success.
SCORPIO (Oct. 24-Nov. 22.) Don't go off the deep end today. Make your plans well ahead of time and then
stick to them closely.
SAGITTARIUS (Nov. 23-Dee, 22)-You might plan to enter. tain friends this evening whom
CROSSWORD
Across
1. This may be a datful of papera,
6. dowler may try to sohieve one. (4) 8. This oils the way. (I
cords refusing to ruff a diamond. South must eventually lead a way out of it. (B)
heart to the ace, whereupon West draws trumps with the king of spades and enshes his remaining clubs to defeat the contract.
CARD Senso♣
Q-With neither side vulner- able, the bidding has been: North East South Weat
1 Heart 1 Spade Para Double
hold:'
Pass
You, South,
Pass
ABS WI633 697′ $39852
What do you do?
A-Bid two hearts. There is no value in showing the weak fivas card sull when you have four- card support for the major.
"TODAY'S QUESTION
The bidding.is the same as in the question just answered. You, South, hold:
What do youa-dotạ
12. You can't aing tüla just oy
yourself. (4)
(81
13. Men who want to mow 14. Hard centre | (4-3).
15 if you're on it you're honest i
19. A child loves'ons, on the beach.
1. This you might say Gils all the
(4)
best channels in time, (4) 27. Bend the money (5) |23. Jelly doen-like cliques ↑
24. Blemish on the surface, (6),
Dowo
1. The guard must bo. to
eficient. (V)
2: Eaten by apologists, c6-35
3. Bun master (anng.), (9),
te
4. Hidden, perhaps where there's
amoka in the plural. (8)
6. Spread out. (9)
0. Ten on the 'Christmas boards.
(R)
7. Dent in for a change.
Aunttuned
10. Ühume note
to music, 441
power i (4) -
17. Bounda
untruthful Lin a trument.
10.'It'e the real
"prlow."(4). 20, a noise,
or
AQUARIUS (Jan. 21-Feb. 18) Be quick to seize on oppor- tunity when offered, The first to take advantage can be the first to win.
PISCES (Feb. 20-Mar. 20)- If the day has been a difficult one, plan to relax at home with a good book and some music.
ARIES (Mar. 21-Apr. 20)--- If you have pending business obligations, now is the time to take care of them.
Pay your
bills.
TAURUS (Apr. 21-May 21)— Don't be impressed it someone
Other
recently showed their instead of from neck to thigh. fabrics used for casual coats This line is indicated by means include tweeds, raised wool colour autumn-winter collections in of horizontal scams under the brics with blended Florence, are agreed on a hust, slender shoulders, bare
boucles and canvas and long, narrow line for the necklines, Aat collars
For the basket weave wools. smarter, more fitted coats, the coming season, although the marrow sleeves,
fabrics
beavy interpretation varies from
favourita wool drape. velours with one couturier to another..
entbossed patterns and glossy. wool texilies which look like seal's fur.
season.
Carrying on from the
line established last
sult jackets have become longer. Sometimes they orc tubo- shaped. Occasionally they flare out slightly from the bust like tunics. Many designers shown marked trend tewards
the Empire line, thus lengthening
Соймесі
and The natural siline is often well-marked. As regards fabrics, pride of plate is held by Shetland tweeds, These are often reversible and have
been widely used for tailored suits, two and three- plece ensembles and overcoats.
The thick, hairy wool cloths are disappearing and are being replaced by soft and compact fabrics which give a very good
Marcelli
Canosa
BOYS'
*
are
Wool boucles are much leat curly now than they used to be, thanks to a new shearing treat- ment which leaves only a hint of curl and levels the face of the fabric.
Fine wocl satins and geor- gettes are used for dresses and dressmaker-style suits.
As in other countries, bright colours are almost non-existent in the Italian autumn-winter. collections. There is a good deal of binck and neutral tones. Where colour is introduced, it is greatly subdued.
Uncluttered Look
Ou touri
·Page
Guias
Fabiqu
The most noticeable point about the models at Vene beneath the bust to give a hint often consisting of two or three zianl is their uncluttered look.
The waistline position of the Empire line. One such layers. Lines are simple and clean and model is a sult in belge and varico from the natural to just trimming is reduced to a mini- mum,
dark brown dog-tooth, check beneath the bust, but the latter "The bustline is smooth.
with a black Persian lamb is used more on coats than any and unstressed This designer favours the long-waisted look. collar. Another is a coat in dark other type of model. On some coata, emphasis returns once Sometimes it is slightly mould-green piled wool fabric with a
more to the bustline by means * shawl collar of brown braver, and at ed (as in redingotes)
of
fullness, The gathered times it is straight (as in suit
Also in this collection are colours of the fabrics he uses Jackets). The colours sho favours are black, blue, gomes eighth length ensembles, with from emerald to willow, fuchsia many three-quarter and seven- Include various shades of green granite red, rust, ochre and straight-styled topcoats which red and cobalt blue,
caramel.
One of the collections in which the high-waisted Empire line is predominot is that of Marucelii.
She calls it the Bindweed line. In all types of models from topcoats to dresses, the waistline is marked by a band just beneath the bust.
and have, skirts which
add fength to the figure. Colours include black, anthracite, Juniper green, brown and natural.
Bloused Effect
U
.
ふ
to
Antonelli does not seem be able to make up his 'mind what his main trend -ls-going- to be this season, Sults tend to hava short, semi-fitted slim Nurts
jackets
over
more Topcoats vary from the loong most of the fiting type with controlled full-
Galdi has chosen classic style than
season.
Coats have narrow shoulder other Italian designers this ness talling from a square yoke to lines, are close-fitting over the cut and
Topcoats are straight the very straight and narrow simple. Sult jackets tube-shaped type. The latter bust,
and dresses, sometimes have a are usually three-quarter length widen towards the hemline.
bloused effect at the back of and worn over a matching Sult Jackets are considerably
the bodice. This is introduced by sheath dress. longer then
those worn last various means, one of which season. This designer uses much is inverted pleats at the centre
Dresses, on the other hand, black in her collection and also back seam. Colours favoured by combinations of
are usually well-moulded to the dark-toned this designer include black, figure, such
as the one in colours such as violet and blue grey, green and quartz pink.
bronze-coloured wool drap with and beige and blue.
"Fuchsia" is the name given by a band round the hips at jacstt-effect bodice achieved Simple elegance is the key by Roberto Capuocl to his y note
the
the back, and double-breasted at collection
latest line. This consists of
Colours Carosa. Tho most
striking a plain simple bodice with appearance in front. the tube-look a models combine
that used by this designer. Include narrow shoulder-line with 口 horizontal seam Just develops. into a full wide skirt, black, grey, apricot, hazel and
light blue.
of
AND GIRLS'
What To Say To Ducks
MAGAZINE
swim. Dog" swim. Children swim. Ducks paddle.”
Hanid saw that once more she had said the wrong thing, "I'll talk about the weather," she said to herself,
talks "Everybody her. Looking around, she saw about the weather and nobody Mra Quackenhonk the Duck com- minds what you say about it."
with her family of So Hanid mentioned aloud to Mrs Quackenhonk: What a Hanid, sad
Mrs sky. It's simply beautiful, isn't
-- After Several Tries, Hanid Still Wasn't Sure —
By MAX TRELL ANID, the shadow-girl with ing along
tells you a tall story--that is not the turned-about name, had five duck good-morning to lovely day! Not a cloud in the
until you have investigated the told her brother Knart that she
Quackenhönk and was going down to the pond to Mrs facts.
GEMINI (May 22-June 21)-ce whether any of the water Quackenhonk returned the greet- It Perhaps
you can invite a few lilies were blooming. So off she ing cheerfully. friends to your house this even-went, feeling very cheerful and Ing. It can prove pleasant and happy about everything, for it was a beautiful day and every- timulating.
CANCER (June 22-July 29)—thing seemed wonderful. Important letters may come to you, so lake care of the answers at once. Be sure of your facts. LEO (July 24-Aug. 24) Take your time about accepting a newly offered business oppor- tunity. Be sure you now all detrits.
Water Lilies Honid wondered as she walked down the path to the pond whether, if one of the water Ulles was in blossom, it would be a yellow or a white blossom. Just then she heard footsteps behind
"I told you not to start a kissing guma
MUKELÄ.
"Come, dears," the Duck said
Two Blossoms to her ducklings in a gently
"Beautiful, did you say?" Mrs scolding valce; "you must say
this Mind Quackenhonk aald. And good-morning to Hanid
time she looked more than sur- your manners, please,"
At this, all the ducklings prised. She looked astonished. utlered little quacking noises "How can it be a beautiful day which were evidently meant to when there isn't a cloud in the sky? A beautiful day for ducka be good-morning.
is a rainy day."
"Good morning to you," said Hanld, smiling to all the little
one..
Poor Hanid. She didn't know what to say to Mrs Quackenhenk
Mrs Quackenhonk came along with her duoklings.
Contrasts
As the name "Desiree", which Simonetta has given to her new line, suggests, this is inspired by the Empire look. In many
enses, waistlines, Pure high and all new effects are concentrated on the bust,
cd
żulta 'buve
In
contrast, however, many tailor- long-waistest jackela with fat bustlines.
There are
eights and
alsk
seven-
pise length
ensembles with coats widening out slightly from burt to her and worn over very narrow akirts. Here again, there seeins to be a certain Indecisivertesa, Colours in this collection in- clude black, grey and.com red.
Practically the whole of the collection of, Fabiani is de voted to two-piece serables --jackets and skirts, drenes and jackets, dresses and, copts, etc.. Shoulders are narrow. The bust la flat. Collars are round or strawl-iiice. Jockets uta
Just reason longer than peplums widen slightly towards the ham. They are
worn over
red,
Predominant
any more. She just walked were swimming-no,, peddling Then the and Mrs Quacken silently down to the pond, across the pond and quickly very slim skirts.
are black, The sun colours here honk and the fivo ducklings all looked at the water-illy, counted walked home again. started walking (or, as you two of them in bloom (a yellow was sull shining, but was it grey and combinations of black might say, waddling) down to and a white), noticed that Mrs really a beautiful day? Hanid and white and blue and white. the pond together,
Quackenhonk and her family wasn't, at all cure any more. "What To their names?" Hould asked Mrs Quackenbonk after they had gone a litle way..
Waste of Timo
Mrs Quackenhonk looked at Hanid in surprise. "Names?” sho repeated, "What do they need names for?"
"Why, 'tell them apart," id Hanidg anid
"Really?", said Mrs Quicken- honk "I tell them apart by their faces. Wouldn't your mother you were you and not someone els even "If you didn't have a name?!!
"Yes," said Hanld;, “but—”
Namos
are aware of
time," said. Mre Quackcophonk.
Cuckoo Hanid, (o suppose,” quickly changing the subject. "you're takings your ducklings down to the "ond" form! Horlar?”
Mer Cunckenhook looked more Kuprinde forn” ever. never swka, tay dear child, TAK
Rupert and Dinkie-20
Beryl is delighted at the 'mappeara ́ance of her,peta **Come along: 2. Dinkie, where haya you been 2'
she calls, it's time to go home now it but that - cae it so frisky that it won't) mo nair her, tosta,
appears again under a bush. ** That can't be Dinkie":"gaapi : Beryle...
me." Meanwhile -founded the bushy or Sat, bare the... Latt le, srity?: Bachtiar haridun found her among the ... Tang:
Subdued Colours
Varled, bizarre and amusing,
the
collection of Schuberth does not follow any of the, cur- rent trends of fashion. DresaTS, suits and overcoats follow the natural curves of the
Boure without emphasising or dis- maling them. And how attrac tive these clothes are." All thi designer's creative ability hur been treeled towards exquialto embroidery, trimming and the harmonieod blending of colours,
Vory new is the thick, hand- crocheted worl applique In well-chory colours which t Used to decorate a tumber of models. Some fil, lower Top costs have huge' collars : faced with Persian lamb. - But, even white, black and gray with a | little red and turquoise
•