THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, JULY 16, 1965.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
A PREVIEW OF AUTUMN FASHION
Victor Stiebel Breaks The
with
THE GOWN
Black velvet with faffcia- ,swathed bodice; dropped hipline outlined mink. A huge haband trailing mink complete this private- view glimpse of a top fashion designer's new startling Idea,
ON RIGHT: A
back view
the
of
dress with
the now long, slim shapeless line that Victor Stiebel, has in mind for his new collections,
Hush-Hush
London.
IF the other 11 top British
dress designers are thinking along the same lino ns Mr Stiebel, to ste some are going
we
startling women around town this winter.
1
We shall not know their secrets until the fashion collections at the end of July, but I do know what VICTOR STIEBEL has in mind. A long slim, shapeless line, with concealed bosom, hidden waist, and a half-dropped hip- line.
For Victor Stiebel has broken through all the hush-hush security surrounding fashion to give me a glimpse of his autumn collection.
FASHION GOES WILD WEST
By Elizabeth Carey
ARIZONA is becoming motif of the design,
centre in ita
Sheer wool, sheer jersey and felt are basic fubrics, The colours are bright but not garish, and hand prints reflect the growth and colour
for
of
small
buttons un-
There was the flimpecan even ing gown decorat- ing a tallors dum-
Where storl?
Robb
A DRESS
TAKES SHAPE
IN SEVEN LAYERS
IN ONE of Victor Stiebel's nine work- rooms... And here is the beginningy
Is Marriage The Key To Success?
ARE married women more
⚫ Page 9
Embroidered "ALLOVERS"
successful in their carcers than the spinster girls? I think they are
The embroidery and for three reasons. They have
more self-confidence, work of St. Gall they are more at ease with has always been the opposite sex, and the famous for its give and take of married perfect finish life has taught them the art and strength of getting on with other which allows it people.
to be cut with-
Only one leading film star of out fear of it today can think of has no
"M" ing to her name, and coming undone.
that's American Grace Kelly,
In the House
of Commons
most of our women MPs are married. Notable exception is the lively and Intelligent Pat- ricia Hornsby-Smith,
The TV screen rarely includes spinster among its personall-
of a crinoline dress-seven layers of crisply gathered nettes. Joan Gilbert and Mary
the roam
to the
They begin in where I was sitting. An austere room, with beige curtains and
rather worn carpet
with the
སྐ
fashion secrets cutting out, pressing, and fit
ting
I looked into the head fitter's A young girì carefully room. pinned into place the many tiera for a full-skirted crinoline for Joyce Grenfell's American tour. In another corner a short, A- line dress was being fitted lo.n dummy.
my--In the centre coming strangely of Mr Stiebel's wealth of gold, heavy pile car- private sanctum. pets, and chandeliers Only embryo salon outside.
on embryo dress, for it
In the
remarked "Strictly clinica}," Mr Stiebel. "I see no reason for having my workroom fit for on Eastern potentate,"
WAS made in tolle, the muslin-like fabric that stands in for real
material for As an idea materialises, Victor the first few at- Stiebel jots it down in a little Unlike tempts on
pocket-book. new gather
he many designers
does not every stitch and every plan sequin before he starts. His dresses are designed as they are munde,
Stiebel told me how I will look in his collec tion: "Soft black 99011 velvet, with a ne taffeta
swathed
bodice, the dropped hipline outlined ined with a movement of mink. A slit the front shows a tiny bit of ankle." And being n de- sither he had to think of more than Just the gown.
He Thoughtfully: "I model for dress should wear an mous picture hat and....she should trail a very long, very
fat
back,
think the
this chor-
thin mink disdainfully, of
course."
An outfit in the luxury elega had been created.
But how did it come about, this new line for the winter?
Three necklines had been with tope so that marked in Victor, Stiebel could decide which he wanted. Other dresse awaited his instructions.
Mile. Lydia
This is where Mile, Lydia comes on the scene. She is the head fitter at Stiebel's: a Rus- The design comes to life in sian, with a mass of blond curls, very strong views on Long, and workrooms. the nine business-like rooms, with trestle fashion.
Now Lydia is making up the tables, photographs of the Royal
in Family decorating the walls, black evening gown I mw
she does not busily tolle. But and in each 25 women
Nike Mr Stiebel's new line.
"It is not pretty to hide the bosom and the waist," she told me. "I do not understand this."
I
is: Stiebel's answer hidden gure is more interest- ing than any amount of reveia- tion,"
The
Parker are still bachelor giris, attractive but moot of the feminine faces who come into our liomes have households of their own.
ANNE GUNNING The only one of twelve.
Let's take the top
models Only one of the leading twelve
A pause. Then Stiebel add--Anno Gunning--is young od: "She comes to me all day eligible.
The 'What do you suggest?'
women who've made TEN old-fashioned irons stand asking OTI hot plates In the Bulebel She fights against some of my their mark in business all wear steer but wedding rings. Directors of workrooms. Here shoulder ideas like a prize
1
and big slores, pad is being pressed before it always she brings out the dress companies
chains of dress shops or cosmetic a finished gown. I want.” is fitted into
businesses, there's scarcely "Miss" among them,
More Variations Of The Italian Cut
By Dorothy Barkley
London.
fashion
Sara Neary of Scotisdate uses own right. The Indian re a wool fabric in a deep, bright handwoven by the local servations nearby and the blue,
inhabi Indians,
short a Spanish-American
fitted tants always a source of jacket. This is worn with
wide band of embroidery. inspiration for artists and craftsmen are now in- Separates in worl jersey and fluencing sportswear and wool felt skirts are created by
Olive Hulett
Phoenix, cocktail separates.
whereas Katte Davis specialises Her version of the Arizona de- in hand-printed sheer wools.
"Genziana" cut is for those who sert "burmous" teamed with a
to- strapless evening dress to give aTAIRSTYLING changes prefer a longer, cofter style.
HAIRSTYLING and Every hairdresser, warkah te covered-up look der the arms to form sleeves or fancies of passing fashion et face the oval shape," says can be unbuttoned and worn as much as dress itself these Mr Richard. "Hair is cut down or broadened out to give that good travel number since it is days. Short cuts one year; illusion.
A hairstyle, after all, wrinkle-resistant: if docs Grecian chignons the next changes
The Italian boy woman's outlook
out, for It is an area of craftsmen crease after, packing, it hangthere's no limit to the more than a hat, and as much those with smooth heavy
hair, as a suit or dress,"
They are now planning a super-hairdressers which will be almost like a club. Besides
usual hairstyling equip ment, it will have beauty salons
SURPRISE FABRICS
of the icon vegetatky or " desert агеня,
straight
stole. This is a
out quite quickly.
OTHER GIMMICKS
variety.
-silver and leather workers, painters und wood workers
But now in London there -and Scottsdale, a small
Tapered stacks, studded belts, is a new technique in hair- town about 15 miles from
the Italian cut the in-or-out shirts, sweater scarves styling Phoenix is its special hub. and other fashion "gimmicks" which gives to all the This little town has a long have come to the sophisticated history as an arts and crafts world from the land of the cow changes in fashion an under- and an Italian-style coffee bar,
dude lying link. the
boys and Crom
..
the days when most of the
ranches.
For the tech- nique is the Aame, no matter
lens. The heavier and clumsier woollens are disappearing from the fashion scene, A highlight of the collection will be á featherweight wool which though light and not too wAITY in wear, yet as sufficient bulk for top coate and dresses with matching jets.
v11
Another new wool is
woven
community, going back to
From Ronald Paterson, the handicrafts were done by Now fashions and colours are what the style, and it pro-
Тор from the traditions of duces a soft, natural look, bright young man of the born the surrounding Indian
the ancient peoples, local settings, encouraging
hair's Twelve designer, come a tow pure silk chiffon, and is groups.
and varied craftsmanships.
hints of what his new collection featherweight and unerushable.
The
Other fabrice suggest that will contain at the end of There was a time when In- Clothes such as these are local natural wave.
The two hairdressers who month. The line and all its de- luxury is to be the keynote of dian women copied the white in their origins, but will find a
fashion havo brought this new cut, to alls are still top secret, but the now collections. For Ronald women. Now,
skirts welcome place in the squaw
tells of some of the now Paterson has also picked velvet .and dress are high fashion centres of the world.
London they call them ho
fafrets, with delicate' cut-out selves Mr Richard and Mr fabrics he has chosen.
tracery patterns, Bome "Bright vivid
colours have Henry explain that it has
and medieval design, and brocades dicappeared completely been helped by new tools.. subtle colours have taken their end satire woven with synthetic
especially when decorated with gold braid and gold ric-rac.
THE SQUAW DRESS
The history of tho squaw dress begins with the arrival of the early pioneers in the 1880's Down the years the atyling of this dress has gone
through various
phants. The
modern version is available as
a
kay, cocktail
Vinegar Will Banish The cold permanent waving place," he says. Many of these wild the
has brought a new softness; are created by weaving two FOR NEW COLLECTIONS dyes, in place of chemical en with cry, for instance
Surprise of his fabric choler for those who like is the use of light weight wool Lincoln, Neb, dyes Vinegar now is a wash- their hair highlighted produces a softer effect,
| Nylon Curtain "Grey" and the use of vegetable together, brown with blank, or
or evening day aid.
dreas. Its origins are sull
parent, not only in the design
np- It will help keep nylon IDEAL SHAPE itself but in the authentle pat- curtains from becoming
terms which are worked in the greyed, says Mrs
fabric.
Typical in a two-piece in
Clarn
The Italian cult, which van
N. Leopold, home manage-to London in a small way just turquolso wool Jersey, beauti- ment specialist at the Uni-after the war, now looks as if it fully decorated with banda or versity of Nebraska.
gold breid and a pattern worked in gold
s here to stay. So far they Favo opened five salons in Lon ric-rac braidi the wild freshly-laundered dion, all of them giving the This is by flicki of Arizona, white nylon curtalm eventually same technique in qutiting. • To specialty take on a great appearance, keep the harita Up-to-dat with Arizona designers, Skiris because of steile electricity; etief in style and to train the now wool felt and other wool in a room is attracted to the turr He host might, clawon
apprentices, Mr. Richard and, fabrics are very full, and there talne on this one or other of the elone every 1 much originality in the de Most manufacturers solve
In
Separates, pro 裁
Kigni. Florenen
Aspoli of probijvoeg Leopold it wolluf the pott's#1
Tucson, for instance,hes do antiestnile
aigi which tell a story on her | sold, Init for
skirta, after the style of the so finjatied, a
Mika Bokka, ane of our bes! in the world, is now cumpering with the French on their own ground. For
ho is dow designing fabrics in England and having then made in the heart of the French silk prochicing country Lyon. And, what la: moru, thome fabrion will be used by Dior ERAT and Tath in thedr Dew CineLions ins August, ag Diction
by the
Which
this
The best of our ballerinas are Icading married, so are many
woman doctors, barristers and lawyers. And looking around the London stage I can find only one Little leading lady who still has to enter wedlock. She's the new girl-Annu Massey
but she's only seventeen,
GO-GETTER
Mayo
I asked psychologist Wingate what it is that marri- age does for the career woman? "It's not so much what mar- riage docs for a woman as the dnd of woman sho 19
that
makes for business Success," he
tells me
go-getting type, who carves a successful career ds usually an interesting, vital
and person
automatically attractive to the opposite sex. of remaining
So her chances single are slim,"
-(London Express Service)
DO
from $35.50
These
ambrol-
dered "allovers" may be used in
a thousand and опе different ways to give an infinite variety of affects. This
is what makes thom So in- expensive.
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from,
beauti-
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Bouffant
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Almost too pretty to be hidden
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