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THE
INA MAIL, SATURDAY, JULY 9, 1955.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Happy Feet. ....In Next-To-Nothing Shoes
Jacketed, it fo
Page
While Couture Client's Dwindle To A Few Thousands -
A New Clothing Industry Booms In France
Paris. the industry has made amazing Leading ready to wear houses HANGING concepts and progress.
He has recently returned
CHAN
: in
Rever List anything but the finest quality fabrics from the French textile houses,
The
HOUSEHOLD HINT
When fitting or buying a dress, blouse or suit, nolice the top shoulder seam. It should be centred on top of the shoulder and in- conspicuous from front and back,
Some
Flimsler and Almasier, this summer's shoes are the prettiest for years. are just things and a sole. Some are so hold bare they have invisible sides to them on your feet. Some are of Ught=23»! air fabrics, from pale pink linen to nylon, mesh. Left: black patent thong sandali with invisible sides, from Delman. Right: blue and white pumps" in nylon mesh.
THOSE DILETTANTES MAKE ME MAD!
Says Anne Scott-James
works--the
It's nice London..
that today there's world
differs are
ASKED for tea and she work for everyone and every. between fo.b, and c.i.f.. and one works. But the pay-off is between a contango and a back- brought me coffee.
the battalions of amateurs who wardation." "So sorry," she said with give the customer such, hall- a giggle. "I never can re- baked service. 'member
who's ordered what."
YOU FIND THEM in shops the girls who chat behind She was a waitress in a West the counter while you wait for attention, who know less about End shack bar.
the stock than you do, and say "No, we've nothing like that,
economic standards have trom the United States, after increased the demand for making an intensive survey of
fabric manufacturers women's ready to wear methods used there. His feeling
is that the American mass pro- prefer to sell outright at the be- clothes in France,
duced market is
ahead of ginning of the season to the and wholesalers, rather than have Franco
the lower Until World War II, this medium priced ranges, but that their star fabrics taken by the market was practically non- the French houses can turn out couturiers on consignment, and
better EveryDet existent here.
styled and finished gar- perhaps returned unused, months fabrics, later if the model executed in ments, in first quality Frenchwoman, with her
the fabric has not been success- in the higher price bracket. mania for individuality, His
at ful own clothes ‚ore,
sold in many famous bought her clothes from a present
Certainly it is good prestige stores. Belgium, couturier, had them made department
Holland, Germany and the for a fabric house to have any by a little dress-maker or, Scandinavian countries are the of the world famous couturiers
it material, but in the last resort, made her best
for use. their .European clients OWD..
ready to wear clothes, seldom compensates for cold England has a very limited hard cash. Today, in France, there amount of French merchandise are only between 3,000 and owing to currency restrictions 4.000 regular and faithful and national controls. clients of the haute couture houses,
French
with compared
THE ONE DRESS
་
JOSEPH MICHAEL
(the publisher): "Our profession suffers terribly from amateurish- ness, because everyone thinks he can write.
writes and "But the pro. writes and writes until he can use words like precision tools.
BAZEL HAMMOND director of two (managing London stores): "The pro, has initiative, and follows her work through from beginning to end. "For instance, a good sales- girl ties up with other depart- ments. Having said a dress, she suggests a new girdle or a hat. The 'nmatentr sells a dress maybe--and leaves it at that."
As Monsieur Lempereur ex-
I asked the price of some before you've said what you He puts in tremendous practice." "A new fabric may dishes and if they were fire- want. plained: be offered to Couturier X at proof.
YOU FIND THEM in offices 4,000 francs (£4) a metre (just over 1 yard) This designer "I don't know the price exact. the girls who are always in buys four metres for
expect the cloakroom making up, and a dress and ly," she said, "but I takes a piece of 100 metres en they're labelled somewhere. I who can't spell the managing 21,000,000 women in the This revolution in the basic consignment. He may or may don't know if they're fireproof, director's name. country who buy ready concept of the way in which not repeat the original, model, but they don't look as if they'd
reaction of crack " the made, mass-produced French women dress does not depending on
mean that they are completely buy
buyers and his private
She was a salesgirl in a china clothes.
sacrificing their famous Indi- We, the ready to wear houses, and-glass department. viduality. Women in the higher on th
the other hand, will use only To supply the demand, income brackets have also be three metres of the same fabrie there are 2,200 different come department store conscious for
for a garment, and it is sold to years. They manufacturers of women's in the last few
us at 2,700 francs (3.14s) the the market for uttle metre because we buy as much garments throughout the comb
dresses and extras that are as 300 metres outright." country.
ready made, but they will still
THE IMPACT
buy one important costume or
an evening dress a year from a well-known couturier.
clicatele.
THE GOLD RUSH
more
||
I asked about her shorthand. typing.
YOU FIND THEM in fashion the girls who mess about as dressmakers or designers.
"Betty has such good taste" her mother ils you proudly. But has Betty learned to eut, to it, to tailor? Not on your life.
She'd come to see roe for a fun.
#
the
girls who open soup
DISH of the -week-A won-
"I'm afraid my typing is a bit
YOU FIND THEM in catering derful summer recipe given rocky, but it ought to get better when I've had some practice, kitchens or serve at coffee bars, me by publisher Sir Allen Lane, What time would I get away on But how clear they make it It makes a meal served with a
- "ladies "
#mixed green salad. Another interesting factor is Fridays? Mummy likes me to that they are really M. Lempereur, leading Also. when compared with that workers receive
that they're only doing it for CARPETRAGGER'S STEAK manufacturer and President American standards of mass money by the hour in the ready catch the 5.15."
You want a really thick steak, scale
to wear. trade than in the haute
two inches at least, Trim off the of the National Federation production, the French
ljob. becomes infinitesimal. The best
YOU FIND THEM in interior fat and.. with a sharp couture. They are highly skill-
pointed of Women's Clothing, states selling dress from
the most
decorating... because they love knife, slice i sideways leaving that his own particular successful wholesale collection ed operators, trained to do one
Queen Anne houses and have one long side still jared so that repetitions. Specific job, such as cutting, business made an overall in- never exceeds 800
Goodness, how mad they make an eye for colour. But their the steak opens and shuts like
the curtains never hang straight and the old carpet bags. crease of 42 percent in 1954 Considering the percentage de humming, pressing, etc.
stined for export, the margin Designers also command high me, the nibblers at jobs,
The their furniture wobbles compared with 1953.
Спор up stmo mushrooms, of chance that à French woman salaries, and may have left the dilettantes, the dabblers.
In the next few weeks, as the season and dot with will see "her" dress on some- couture ranks to follow the gold girls who want the money but one else, is no greater than in rush to the ready to wear in can't be bothered to learn the universities come down, as the Pack then into the slit and sew
technique. his business headquarters the haute couture.
Custry.-China Mail Special.
schools break up, as the debs. p all round with thread Fry from downtown Paris near
Eay farewell to the season, thou- like an ordinary steak, but re- the fabric centres to
sands of girls will start in their cuce the heat after a little so the
Brst jobs. They'll be young that the meat is cooked through Rue Royale, stronghold of
all the better. Inexperienced without burning the outsides, the couture houses. He has
doesn't matter. But if they start ore erving sulp out
threads. purchased the two top floors
with the amateur attitude of No. 5 Rue Royale, over the
they're doomed. Jacques Griffe salons.
·
M. Lempereur has changed
The impact of changing times and the evolution that the French market is under-
Why Do Artists Idealise Their Subjects?
The Portrait That Flatters...
going is brought home by WHAT does a woman ex- M. Lempereur's new whole pect when she sits to sale showroom which, only a have her portrait painted? few years ago, was the From a study of recent pic
covered that some male sitters Henry Lamb, RA, would have
us believe?
feel the same way.
No woman could look in real Do women enjoy these subtle
What makes an amat What makes a pro.?"
I've collected opinions from
fe quite so like an ethereal flatteries in paint? It seems chocolate-box cover as John that they do, It is for these some of the most famous em
of Mrs delicate compliments from the ployers in Britain.
private designing studio of tures in London art exhibi- Wheatley's picture
Michael Hughes Hallett, with artist's paintbrush that they WHITNEY STRÀIGHT (de-
one of the world's most tions, it seems that the last its fine-spun gold hair, bright sit for hours and hours or are famous couturiers, Captain thing she desires is to be blue eyes and pink and white happy to pay substantial fees. Edward Molyneux.
face has
PICTORIAL MOMENT,
puty chairman of B.9.A.C.): "A pro
in cur business is a person who can rink" personal feelings,
“Our staff 'must take changes One notable exception is, of of schedule or rudeness from course, Lucien Freud, whose passengers in their stride." pictures of his lovely wife, the EDWARD RAYNE (youngest former Lady
Caroline Black chairman of a public company
lised.
butter.
MOUSON
STOPS NAIL BITING
the
cheeks. portrayed as she really is.
Churchill is a veli. Ballerina Margot Fonteyn is. Lady
and good-looking THE STANDARD
being painted by Pietro Anni- preserved 80ni, the Italian painter who woman but her produced this year's Academy interesting character lines and There are several different ve picture of the Queen has been moulded by exper classifications among the The result will be idealised, no ence through the busy for wholesale houses....
suspicion of a line or wrinkle, None of this appears in John
New Inviable-paint effectively Forty firms, many of whom not the tiniest blemish on the Napper's new portrait of Lady Wood, are certainly not idea in Britain: the pro, has
whom skin, the hair more so idealisation,
Churchill. It is a fairy-tale
I asked artist Nicolas Egon mong tre to earn money checks inastiary dissguring babit. - employ designers who
with the complexion more luminous
silvery hair, just back from an Italian trip. The amateur reaches a certain formerly in haute couture, are and the eyes more sparkling and the eyes are too blue, the and well known for his sketches to earn that much more
salary level and makes no effort It or child persies in the dis- "We figuring and, insanitary habit of mali face too unlined the skin too of beautiful worden, why it is
biting, you can nów hạặp kit (or trug
plak and white for reality.
LORD "CHANDOS (formerly her to stop it. Just paint of Another painter who has the that most artists idealise their,
subjects. For himself he claims Oliver Lyttelton): A pro is Wilbite, the new harmless liquid touch of the Old Masters, made that he tries to catch hig sitters someone who has thoroughly which usually stops the habit lui live mannequins and first
popular by Annigoni is John presenting the Collection at "Women want to see in their R. Merton. He has portrayed at a pletorial moment, studied the they as well as of days Coctaior no does no
quanzia and; no: quinine. Even the plainest woman," the practice of a profesionales, 100% elective; wabes off spocal press show.
pictures the woman they'd like Mrs Julian Salmond, as Monsieur Lempereur who was babe,” controversial artist brooding madon.
****be slysans ber, moments of business steroli with soap' and water. One bottle of
beauty or character, and what Obviously the first to-realise the par- Graham Sutherland tells me, Viscountess Cranborne is a is what I try to capture in my tarje met be expert in the late dient for the mast sibilities of uniting and de- and adds:" "That's what makes jvely woman, but
are her cetch.
mechanics of hosted and case. From all dispensaries veloping this field, is the leader them : difficult sitters" Poor chocles really as rosy and is
typing. But she should nino of the group, and thanks to him Mr. Sutherland has also dis- fer furoat truly až white as
-Eileen Ascroft
know barly how the biziness
to
cali
than
technically entitled themselves "Creative
whole- salem," This involves a certain
standard of showing las clo DIFFICULT SITTERS
00
Invisible,
A royal welcome to all sun and moonlight hours! The shrug jacket is a real change-of- mood artist, tops a beguilingly bare dress that sweeps intó a voluminous skirt. Icy white grosgrain ribbon treads its. bodice. In blended cotton and chromspun acetate that washes, resists wrinkles beau- tifully. Olive green, lavender, orange, melon, pink, blue. or turquoise. Size 7 to 15.
:
only $95.00
Paquerette Ltd.
162 Des Voeux Road C.
Tel: 21-157.
The Versatile Beanstalk
FOR STORES ETĆ.
and
Suitable for Display purposes in Stores Dispensaries, Offices and Homes for filing, general storage etc. Clean, handy and easily moved for con venience.
PRICED PRŮM
HKS 20 TO $145
OFFICES
HOMES
Tiers can be added or reduced. With or without standa Also Hanging models, Available at
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Kowloon
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