THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 1956.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
The newest hat line in Paris (and how men are going tehale ii) is a big clrolé, all crown and almost no brins, tike a saucepan, 113. I muri warn you that I find it tremendously chic. This version is of naturas ovloured ersckly straw,
za, worn dead level; by Givenchy,
Anne Scott-James at the Paris dress shows reports a completely new silhouette in
BALENCIAGA'S TUNIC LINE AND DIOR'S A-LINE
ARIS fashion is
Puddle
Paris.
4
in
4
tremen- low as the back.
Necklaces I THINK: This is wonderful, You know how I go on and on about colour.
are all shapes and 10
Season
SKIRTS Vary dourly, and here I refuse to slung back to from. I never re- b.ter than another.
pick out one line or length as 1 THINK: You're done with- Dior's are out a full-length double mirror. member such a conflict of chors and full. Balenciage are
HÁTS
dull
for Ines and shapes and colours noticeably longer. And both
sizeu under the sun, and it's
ACCESSORIES, consider- in Paris before.
Show ·lenger, above-ankle dressts, rush
to predict which line will ing this is Paris in the spring. for evening. TWO WOMEN
Every house in win, But I've put a ring round Beads, reses, diamante, stoles, lunch together-one in a dress Pens Trow picela, particularly big hats worn flat on the head umbrellas are sill with us in
and small hats tilted forward. as tight and narrow as a lemon- with middly tope,
THINK: The
the shapes and sizes we know. smartest belt
Dior's nowest hat is a little idra in Paris
The only new idea is a bur- la Balenciaga'- Green moon lted over the
of spring in the shape of coat with three martingales
birds, butterflits diferent
and bugs. These alight over the place Etxer a bird on your brow
Can
to Ko
ade struw, the other in a lost
bodice and a middy
swiri Both will took right. pleats
of
to pin on the back of her head,
5
Nearly
every
dress
at
brow
bas
y
.
to
TWO WOMEN can buy new looseness at the back.
I THINK: It looks a tiny, tiny levels catching in the 20,000-frane liis--me a
a bonnel
bit common.
COLOURS are bright and two tropical-size butterfiles on gay, there's very little black, the back of your coller. There ar's toast and sunburn I THINK: I shan't be wear- colours; yellow; flower blues; and ing a butterfly myself. But they} here and there a streak of bril- have a sort of primavera charm, llant red
if you're the type.
and the other
one in a
12 bit of Dolly Varden nonsere
to perch on her forehead. Both will look right.
TWO WOMEN can
Ro to the saine evenbg purty Minky birk dress like a fesume fatale: the wher in a short, beft- skirted dress of rose-pink chif- fon ever patitenats, like a bal- Jarinu
Both will tank right For The inment, anything Сосн
A BELT, though it may be a set-ir belt which is part of the garment.
Most bls are low around
hip-Bae or lower.
idea in Paris is Balenciaga's coat { THINK. The smartest belt with three martingale at dy- CLOTHES are the talk of the town, BUT— xxxxx ferent terria catching in the Longruens of the back.
But there are trends lending 6
SLEEVES are
ali rel mustly in the natural place From the Thousands of models of the outside edge of the shoul-
into the future.
of der
I've seen, from the whirl
There is no squaring, pad. BoCessories, trom the talk and thing, or compleations. It's all cross-talk of fashion designers imple a shirt-sleeve. Most
and reporters and buyers, I've ported out the few facts which Beer to me to matter
I'm not going to give you de- tailed descriptions of clothes, be- cause I always find them quite incomprehensible (I can't even understand my own notes.)
sheves are threequarter length or quite short.
I THINK: This is going to do more to date my oian clothes than any other factor. Because most of my sleeves are cut in one with the bodices
new
Most of the detail and in- Instead, here's a personal, pre- terest of the
clothes judiced Ten-Point Guide to Sues TO THE BACK. Belts at Ports, which I hope will help the back only. Collars dipping
ก
you
ine when you cons to do your spring and shopping.
1
summer
There are Just two Parts designers who can set the
pee for the world, Bilenelaga and Dor. Both stick to the long toms and the easy waist.
compactely
Each has une
NEW SILHOUETTE, and these make the news of the season They will be influentiol for months or years to come.
Balenciaga has
tunic line: a narrow column made up of 100 narrow, unshaped 1unic
equally
Over an
ΠΟΥΤΟΝ calf-
length skirt. It's as simple us
piece of classie sculpture. Dior has his A line which you so in the sketch. He dresses a triangle, with your you like
head
the apex and your hem the bare,
The crossbar of the A is
a bit, which may come high or low.
The waist is loose.
I THINK Dior ought to have given it a prettier name. It sounds hard and
unattractive,
but
2.
E
feminine and beautiful. 9. THE WAISTLINE may bo high or low this w370 BLASON, but it must be onay-nting: Most dresses and Jackets are shaped so that the waist is indicated, but
not clasped tight,
I THINK: You still need to teatim. The bodies of the alender French mannequins ripple under their easy-fitting. -clothes.
THE BUST is smaller
3 to the wo
Dior at finttend the bust, and `other · designers cut bodiens no that the bust retreats somehow (or other syMAKİ
1 THINK: We always scream",
·when any new idea comer along, But we like it in the end.
Demdchy's sketch sumie, up the line. The head se ́smail, the shoulders nAITOK,
long, and the yam widEVITA "bell", or band makes the
orombar of the Parkas
Miss Caron Just
Doesn't
No
TO time, alas, in Collection Work to eat well, go shopping, or go on the town. Six hundred drèmes a day is about all you can manage. The relaxation is talking
only people.
to
I talked to a woman who buys clothes: Elizabeth Appenzellar, fashion buyer for famous American store Gimbels; she has been buying in London and Paris. She told me:--
"London fashion is welding up. This trip I found bath couturiers and manufacturers thomer enterprising than be fore,
People seemed lively. They are even willing to sel you things,
"I like to buy in London, because British imports have prestige
appeal I bought drews and sulta from several couturiers. And won- derful ready-made
cotton droses.
"Hero in Paris? Well, I adore the line, but I don't consider it 100 percent sala- able. Americans women sim- ply will not flatten their
...do -- a weenan who data, Dior's lovely new red-headed man- nequin with the tiny figure and the jet-black eyes she told me
immenden and I cam
Zour
(pótes ago, with
mother se refugee, MA,
•
Care
LESLIE CARON
No concessions to glamour,
"I don't really mind what I wear. I bought a few grand clothes because they told 'mo I. must-1.
badly dressed. "Long
short evening dresses? I don't mind.
"Hater I never wear them.
Colours? Mostly black. "I like to buy five or six dresses at time and then
It's all settled now -- the Top
·Twelve are for
THE ENGLISH
THE
.*
LOOK
London.
HEY have settled for the English Look. After toying with the Em- pire line, the American college girl look, and the eighteenth-century tight- waisted style, the Top Twelve have decided that the English Look is the one that suits Un best -- and the one that overseas buyers pick when they come to London.
Black cation rinsed with gold is the material for this V nécked, full skirted evER- Ing dress, also by Starke It has an unasusi dropped waistline at the back. Matching gloves go with the Arcos.
What is the English Look? Trim, tailored clothes for day; bouffant, colourful clothes for Cven- ing. Clothes that follow the natural lines of the figure, clothes that are dif- ferent from last seaso11 ---- not so different that every- one refuses to wear them. wear here, but cannot becaus
There's always a touch of it is too cold, Some wore in Paris in the English Look, printed silks, favourite for a whether a colour,
hot climate; they had "the full hat skirts which are more comfort- trimming or some detail of able on a hot day than tight-
Atting sheath dresses,
line,
This year it comes with the H-line. Most of the designere who
Two of the "royal" designers, have made some of
have followed it, though usually Princess Margaret's Caribbean
wardrobe, showed the Eriglish Look in most detail,
FOR CARDEN PARTIES
It is such on English version that you might not recognise as the real thing. They rejected the flat. no-waisted lock, and put the waist In 11s right place. They kept the "long torso" by beginning skirt fullness at midi- hip level instead of at the waist.
Norman Hartnell chose Ho "English garden" prints. As always. minny
of the pleked a wide variety and they dresses were the kind that go were seen to best advantage on down well in the sunny south his afternoon dresses and garden the kind that we would love to
In
This pinafore of usion and coiton evening dress, grey woven with white, in -swept up at the back to dia-
play the・ plesied under:: skirt of white organdie, 11 Is by Frederick Starke,
Travel Has Little Effect On
.་
Pregnancy
outfile.
party
They were molly flower prints, either full- blown TOPCE on
a darke bluo ground or cornflowers on white.
but
Moving away from the prints,
keeping to the
flower theme, be used Swiss organdic with applique flowers in con-
Ono trasting colour.
garden party dres, with fichu neck and full skirt, was in grey organdie with white daisies scattered over
Hartnoli niso brought back that old favourite of the English summer-the big-brimmed, un- broila sized hat, which looks its best on a tall person. Were in plain straw,
Some Others were in new materials, and one of there was a coarse net which looked live disticloth and was stretched over a wire frame.
Evening dressce were in the Hartzell tradition of rich satin and
embroidery, gleaming usually in the form of sprays of Lowery picked out in sequins and beads. One dress in palo blue_sain-Dresden chinu called it—had raised pink roses and chita blue bends, scattered on the skirt,
ho
For day
cuits and wear, dresses were neat and tailored in the English буду, They relled for effect on a brightly † coloured hat or scarf.
THREE LINES
Victor Stiebel showed three distinct lines and all brought something new
to the English, Look. There' was the long, olim
от tattered suits and dresses, softened by drag- hips ing on shoulders and TRAVEL' does not in Thory was the long-waisted
Chicago.
Tcrease the complications
of pregnancy, accordinglani-skiriod style chosen for
high
| the magazine Science Digest. Materials were
dreams. And costs had. waists and fluted skirts.
gay, and Slicbel described them ng a
Dr Joseph A. Guilbeau, Jr., and his associateer at the Max-
well Air Force Base in Alabama vatre i cope at Osperrtal colour
across shantung, paper reported
of 1917 taffeta, tie on a shudy
Kik and
collon, pregnant women who travelled Palo pinics, blues and greens 800 miles or more
were the main colours. Guilbeau said threatened and Stiebel rescued the parasel actual abortions were under 5 (Victorian variety) from the percent, well below. The -no- trink in the attle and teɛmed it opted figure of 10 percent, with some of his sille, dress, But Guilbenu warned women Usually he made it to match I met any I understand
are threatened with mis- both drew material and cont the way she feels,
Glutted
carriage symptoms to refrain Mains cloyed, wearied) with fashion, I
long trips for a period of He drewed up plata kotiet bought so much as a handker
four to six weeks after the shoes the summer by covering |symptoms...... have ended, chief in Paris,
-United them in a peint matching the Press
forget the whole business for six months.".
'Haven't
FOOD food is 70 percent
We started to study paycho-: . good cooking and 30 per-
but I had to earn some money, and H. Dior give me
cent" the way," a meal, is served." Menu va havan't been eating in the 16 dramoda in the cream-and-caviar palaces, mostly in the - Bew The cheap little places in and present a mealjain
ambornarici suntars colours
which we to go with NY, A WAY our entœurs could wal
ator of An
Shop funk
Reno
cost
rli individual
"I Want..." A Natural Trait
Of Children
Madison, Wis,'
FAMOUS I18 mpecialist wonde mEAT.
mother not to have no
too many
then the
and
Page:
We announce with much pleasure
the re-opening of
The Little Shop
Boutique de Coutura
at
The Repulse Bay Hotel
Open Monday to Friday:
from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Saturdays, closed Sundays, opent,
from 10a.m. to 3 p.m.
Repulse Bay
Attraction
Added..
Parisette
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For the
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