AROUND. Paris With STEPHEN COULTER

THE CHINA MAIL, TUESDAY, JUNE 8, 1964.

State Turns Tables On

T

Art Smugglers

HE "honourable smug wood this summer where 31 m gling" of art treasures ver Wilitma Gaetz was gone from Kurupe to Amerien is, oddly enough,

to make a din of his de pans wow: Danny Kaye

"Sum 111.4 Visa

providing French rustoms started haven't had as much meat with their most glorful a moments for years.

posted fro Gurtz ver Danny Chevaler, Ila as Thought a leper."

corporal Hid. a day, a sergeant 1s. 3d, a day, an adjutant 18. Ild, a day bod & chief adjutant 24, 1d.

a day! A private in Indo-China

1 la better off with about co a week and a corporal with £7, 10, Buia French divisional general at herne gels only 137.10.0.0 week, against a British general's

BO 15 0.

፡- incl

American Reneral's £100,

either M: Kave rays 1 vene

ין.

might

They have just up a brilliant now technique that not only watches

DENE Mayer. lar t offenders but is giving the

Pizme. 1 French State some of the

even wanted Cami Minister) biggest art barguing ever. bugtung

floground "Honourable muugglers" one of the alls of Finger at a are not professintal eroula Paris Ny dani

the true ‛;41 : but people of otherwise Be Bat

French seript enklest na hes stainless repute who try in fore the company commander,

my epeal through "Have you

commausden, for nothing quest asked customs with the len of top prirë “xpecting the usual rejdy alunt the man's preference for one on other sules in Amerion.

branch "Well win," replæd the esiseript, I'd be glad od a smull subs.dy M Mayer dado't have to explain to bas laughing audire tha

get ar tvasures

the

A friend of mine at Cherbourg the The new other day saw technique in action.

14

A dignified elderly man nowadays thus what pretty presented hai bagage, well eve gbody

among which was a hand- sume picture, "That?" he shrugged in reply to the chatons men. "Oh, the PX- pets say it's almost worth Jess. I'm only taking at a a gift for my aunt.

IN

Think he has at light to

DARIS Fadkars Lashellerene a have Team Teaching feverishly for their throat tablete Frank-taty

up

skal

sance

Mared

1

plabbe over French feriileities

The name of the Frenele

tematen arse Paquarissam Yenile. known as Maur

Put it down at £10 if you like," senador

My21 The custom

Haskel

lime to wail: *14 They

brought up an expert From The Ministry of Fine Arts. whoxummibed

A pageaisouderame

The picture THE barak

ON the Bittany CHRANE INC waiting with some

The World by author and

and valued it at C33980, So expectation for the next visit to the customs men turned to there part the traveller. "You've de. Franens Max clared it for $10. All right. Nobel Prize Winner In a recust we will buy it for that

اني

tale, M Matimas called Mant

Michael favourite

Kindly go to The router cant af åt: 11 lt visitngi

fou to

st

Poliday

jו זיי די

and collect your money.

And the "honourable smuggler" found that under COME British marel other the rules he had to accept!

THERE

HERE seem to me to be all sorts of awkward postal

the blew tried

D

foreign residents in France are feeling the strain The Best national versus since before the was has started, and toamiauchsler- booking white forms are thatter- ng through letter boxes all over M. Los Duratel, Country Connelline-General of the Seule, hat protester alektions

The

The falling off In regular There realment has so worried Frecci Monsters lately that they are going to push through a pay rise

THE best leuths of the Pare

podem are again serviching tamar bends over The reappear- sance et "Inities, the gentleman. burglar," who has lifted a for- Tota Create

Ert The

swagger West Kid

"Raffles" fool shiok police last year by breaking roto a series DỊ imillionaires nomes and getting ¿ clue. away that leaving Never a fingerprint or fool- mark Deter lives were able to Bok the pestilering becutive they noticed th

mysterious erneksitad suwed expert Taste He is not taken my by undatiotr Jewellery p objets d'ort Aut only varies ST ser VITY best things

Saree The two lafest luinglaras, the raminal police The Rade have maller du pewter Chot, vine al The meet teriowned expert, un art Lougees in Europe

MacCOLL

IN

MOSCOW

T

MOSCOW. on

SHOP

ICES

"Just tell me 'It's lovely to see the sum again' once more, that's all,"

London Express Bervice

ANTHONY EDEN RESPECTED BY CHINESE REDS

By PATRICK MAITLAND, M.P.

A meeting

T their first private a map showing Chinese na- in Geneva, timal territory within Indo- British Foreign Secre- China, within Burma tury, Anthony Eden, is said (Assain) and even down

Such, indeed, is the theme that attends every converon- tion with members of the Chinese delegation who they

Not been HU

expected. approachable

have

11-

ure

to have suggested to China's into Slam. The Chinese Premier Chou En-lai that it make no secret that they was time China sent an Am- expect to recover this terri- bassador to London. There tory in due course and are had now been a British Em- In no great hurry now, basay in Peking for som But when they years. Mr Eden stressed. chivied by Westerners to be Premier Chou allegedly more forthcoming in their answered: "There is no peace proposals, they simply hurry."

smile und remark that, of course, they have these claims which, if tha West will not make

pence now, are in a position to press.

They are meantime follow- The delegates, in private ing a course definitely not conversation, imply

altogether set by Moscow. they want fighting halted hulted both in and kept Korea and in Indo-China. But they also make it clear that Chinn has claims-- critical territorial claims relations with Russia. In particular, he was asked about which they do not

whether Chinese Com- feel bashful.

munism differed from the It is possible to obtain Soviet either in ideology or from the Chinese delegation

organisation. As to ideas, came the reply, the Chinese still drew their principles from Dr Sun Yat Sen. As to organisation, they now looked to Russia.

DICTATORS LIE

SIDE

il

nerd year

fur

BY SIDE

The second despatch from Rene MacColl

xe

Jeft and I am walking down a remains Alght of marble steps into the

Tumb itself. tur to the right and there euch sharply spotlighted in ofherwise dim chamber, lie the TWO Bankers of 20th-century the history.

overdoing "The ulher night

point in

The

con-

I

that

Careful Analogy

delegate, about Chinese

One Chinese was asked

This delegate then drew A careful

analogy. "We read in our papers," he said, "that you British are look- ing to the Americans more and more for help in indus- trial and other kinds of organisation. Sometimes our people exaggerate and suy you are controlled by the USA. So it is with us. We was naturally look to the USSR. the frills.

walking

back ofter hop-But they do not control us.' pening on a full-dress rehearsal Take air travel.

In particular, this dele- for a

rehearsal parade. The the

planes in took trast between

place In

Wis asked if near-freezing gate

he which dew from London by

weather, and it made me under-thought all Communist coun- way of Stockholm and Finland, sand why the U.S.S.R. is proud tries should "live under one and the Soviet's Convair-type

of its army. job ino which

umbrella." I climbed ut

He replied that, This was an array of strictly though that had been the Helsinki They He on separate calafal-

for the last 10p Moscow

disciplined men. vin ques, with bronzé banners and

healthy look- Lengrad, could

Russian idea, it was not the ing, alert and smart. Thousands of people every

bronze Bowers as adornment at

not have been sharper if every to the day visit the

The sides. The bodies

one concerned had sat down and red-and-grey

N days when the mausoleum closed

gluss

finely planned it that way. marble mausoleum Tew O

Le

but ittat(TI the Kremlin

yam see the huge polthed yards from

As took my At the four corners matically

scut, I auto- queue fou abast and stretch- inviibir,

glanced up of the WONDER how many pesupie walls, where the ties of the for perhaps a mile or more, of the sunken rectangle

place where there are usually who

the te Vladimir Lenin am foseph winding downs a title hill from tall Followed

The entafalques stand

the twin flesh-on signs saying Battle of Dien Bien Phu realise

vozing Red Army soldiers Stalin lie perpetually

in Hest Squares and then round the four

"Fasten your seat belts" and at s what Da JAY

Freuch

corner and vanishing under the fact inwards.

"No smoking please." Fodder is”

to think state, Escal

Kremlin Park In trees of the British Lates, low enough.

the distancs. A Fierp

Af 7 d.

the French liner Lyauley Song tatue after the ships hard set rut

Marseilles, from

treated were

To formance the first ever

Med

- זיא!

יו!!!

nat new) showing the crowd wait- ing to then con the rayside e their

Casilan Porewarned may be des carmed But stil

MAURICE

M

1

at

Cherv.. Lam looking particularly sad The big party he floors Finase and Marton la Courtier. But he ses de teck it heraus he can't get an American entry Visa S I can't NBY-

thin days Bad within An otheer motions me to the HEY lie there side by muted hours,

side. One died 30 And Since Stalin's

in the tomb just subterranean years ago. The other wete

ag it has been last year. Together

members of the have changed the pubite to get a pass before they poole Ink » pesiple's privité Bives. course of history, affected pay theis in peeta.

But what

use the lives of us all. Nor is the have wen Iying

story done yet.

it

Britons who

14

that the eSUS

Dewey-parks they

worrying

on the choseups'" for years France is how soon their names will trow get round Come tax 7916491.

basre

One

1

4

The aumber would be even thegreater were it tol that the day, authorities allow visitors only

the Colony

NOW

SOUT

ORNIN

& KOWLO

ו ד ו ת

Four abreast

I is an arresting sight. this greve, and a constant reminder of the veneration in which the people of the Soviet Union hold

P

In

2214

01

Clear view

Dre

the two extraordinary men who three or four steps 1 go

50 that I am looking down nt Lenin and Stalin from a dis- tance of a few feet. The tight ing 15 admirable And the features of the men stand out with perfect clarity.

ic

the

other

They were whiling away the Chinese. They could afford minutes until midnight struck to make distinctions and and

cuissons rolled by find friends among their rehearsing their greetings to socialist' neighbours. Malenkov

the and

He notables when

pass the instanced Burma and India, they saluting baso atop Lenin's tomb. and he said China

would Dapper officers, many of them look further afield. But he

stood coplously moustachiorů,

also implied that China had up

troop- There were no such signs in carriers holding little red flags chosen her friends badly in

earnestly to the the past;

look

this Russian plane.

REASON: No seat belts - and it was up to you whether you smoked.

In the armoured

and talking

Then at a signal from the flag ideology.

men.

all the steel-helmeted heads would jerk to the right and the The seats a single row down men would give a roor in the right-hand side and a unicon: "Hurrah - Hurrah— double row on the

left-were Hurrah." covered with what seemed to The officers were clearly per- be bits of old carpet.

fectionists, for they made the men go through it angin and again-One lot did it 33 times.

in turn led Russia and bullt it. in less than four decales, Into a mighty world

power. Jinke my

place at the head of

the queue

one sunny wfter- noun. a courtesy reserved for foreign visitors Behind me

Lenin wears a binck shirt stretches out of sight the line of with outside breast pockets. His piece men, women, and children of arms le outstretched, Russin,

all

3

Some of the ventilation blow-

not.

How come?

now

she must to their socialist

persis-

No Secret

Although Premier Chou En-lai was evidently loth to concede much when he Someon had festound

talked with Mr Eden, his of bright blue plush and the to simulate a curtain at the

delegation members make right Ast is clenched, The left entrance to the cockpit, but it

no secret that they regard Some of them travelled great hand lies open, and one notices hung woefully lopsided.

the British Foreign Secre- distances to look upon their the square-cut strong fingers,

tary It is a silent, He wears a couple of ribbons on dead lenders.

the outstanding whispering concourse. although his shirt.

holes worked while others did WELL, a few minutes after personality. In private they about us are the normal

leaving the rehearsal i came acclaim Mr Eden's busting trafic noises of a great black shroud from the waist Both bodies are covered with

The stewardess was a short, upon un open manhole, andthin tence in negotiation and his city.

down, and

down inside it, doing something girl, dowdy Jengths of binelt pale

by our rather difficult with В Five minutes before we are to

constant readiness to work standards, with

heavy anaomic On

electric be ndmitted

*mile. You n polleeman just crape are cast at their feet.

cable, was a woman. could not have

out new proposals and seek She was ahead of me

Lenin's head.

wrapped wilder

in heavy to secure their acceptance. is neat.

contrast to the clothes against the nippy night The had o measured progress across the upslanting eyes of his pictures curvaceous cutles, groomed to

cheerful; but Mr Dulles role has left a cobblestones of Red Square and and photographs are a notable the last eyelash, who undulate air, and seemed

atil it was strange we all shuffle

to see a lesser impression. Chinese characteristic. He has hair around in American planes.

0

woman doing that sort of job at express disappointment. seemly rate.

never expected to come a woman agree with him. But they

in the dead of night?"

with such strength behind "In the Soviet him He replied:

would there

prove more arc no unpleasano

warts a slow and

after him at o

line moustache and from certain angles the hint of a smile seems

Red drapes

T

the

to play about his lips.

On time

that time of night.

The next dày Russion:

I said to

They

does a "How a job like that did expect that a statesman

On the contrary, all work ready for serious diplomacy. Now, however, in place of a

lunch, DTÍCU

Stalin is in a khaki militory tunic, bonked with many rib-

HUT she came round with well- end of the

His face is rather more five bons.

thumbed Sovet magazints, Union marked with and later mora minutes I have come up to gaunt and

with a box the great bronze doors of the the cares of responsibility than This had a gay picture on its te tomb. flanked by huge red- I had anticipated.

top of a plane flying over the At night the huge red star, diplomacy of draped wreaths. We halt while

warnings with It is a handsome leonine head, Kremlin at sunset.

glare forth above the Kremlin's which Mr Dulles paved his way the guard 18 chonged (four the grey hair brushed back and Inside I found a caviar sand towers....and I find It extra- to the conference, there times an hour). Three young the familiar grey moustache wich of brown bread, another of ordinarily soldiers

difficult to tell you change in the American scene Axed bayonets drooping below with

the prominent

salami, two apples, some bls about this place.

also. Recent reports stemming move up, marching the

cuits, and some excellent bolled

from the U.S. delegation suggest reference aro "parade" in which each foot is

sweets. And you could have as something you and I have no that Mr Dulles would now be whammed down on the ground

much Russian-style tea (in a knowledge of. We have never willing to consider the partition as bord as possible.

tuif glass with a sliver of lemon) encountered anything remotely not only of Vietnam but of Laos, as you wanted.

piso. When all is sald and tone, went fast, we went these

two men of we

safely, and we landed on time. Rusla form an absorbing And as far as

nose.

Over there is the architecturat fantasy of St Basil's, with its twiated gooseberry Orientat spires, probably familiar to you I death,

from countless pictures.

Contrast

}

The terms of

like it.

Rough bunch I am concerned

on my hit parade

Touchstone

first leave

quòs.

of

This last has been tho St Basil's has been a museum visual contrast-Lenin the in- that is No. since the Revolution and sud- fellectual, with his high the where al travels that the YOU alt in a banqueting hall exchanges,

Louchstone of the past ten days and bald head, denly, as I glance round and bones

But how I wish

Western for the look at the silent people behind planner, the man of burning Russians

would

match their of unexampled opulence- Powers have insisted that Vlot- speech the ideas speed in their restaurants,

must me, their faces rapt and tense, prusive

no expense spared marble minh forces got that,

Stalin the door, the man I Iam in grave danger of losing pillars, mosaics, good, wines, Laos and Cambodia if any parii- some of them at least, this of action-even dead he seems

three Umos dally music,

Hors

of Vietnam is to be agreed. vas my temper mausoleum and the mortal to radiato a

sense of massive here in Moscow at breakfast, And, this setting contains the American sources, when taxed remains within must have taken power and the magic of a com- at lunch, and at dinner You roughent bunch of customers with this change, direct the place of the churches and monder.

never saw such sloppy, go-as- you ever clapped eyes on-you tioners to the personality cathedrals.

About me are the tiny sounds you please servies, and I am think they must have strayed in their delegation leader Gen. of scraping footfalls and the staying at one of Moscow's best by mistake drab in their Bedell Smith, U.S. Ambassador muted whisper a woman say hotels,

clothing and uncouthby in Moscow, during the Berlin ing something to her wide-eyed The place was built in 1907 out, standards their demeanour, airlift. He is not the man to chlid.

and my guess is that the kitchen Ticloas mengainst bright "quit", they say. And, they The four sentries stare fixedly must be an awful long way green, marblo. Caviar and event murmur about massive re- STEP

out of the sunshine at their erstwhile leaders.

from the dining room.

sweaters. Bell-bottomed trousers tallation. Land-into the air-conditioned I walk outside into the sun- The menu is in four languagès, and champagne. Aj slap-up || || But that makes no Impression dush of the Interior. ham shine. But the groas queue of and the Banglian vorsion le mot dinner but no teve On Russians of Chirene, Both mer and sickle medallion work, adulants comes on, implacaby, invariably bang-on, coming out... | But they are all enjoying|feel that change, is at hand in ed in allver... twinkles, againat There are Certain things, with such, itema as "roasted › themselves. 3. Enjoying them- every quarter and they have no Ithe dark marble background. about which the Russians, black cock with görnishings.” "Helveh very mughi

need to hurry.

Into dusk

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