THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, APRIL, 3, 1954.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Why Smart Girls Turn
Out To Be Dowdy Wives
THY do so many smart become dowdy
W girls
and dull after they are
married?
The drab wife is the one with Ing little money.
It's natural for a woman to like looking her best. There are few things she enjoys better than a shopping expedition for a spring hat, or the toole of a new hairdo or lipstick.
But not everyone will admit thal. Here, for instance, is the Rev. C. W. H. Lemon, vicar of St. Thoman's, York, with A diferent view.
"Girla before marriage Rre anart," he writes in his church "but inagazine,
suvinetimes, huving got their men, they get slack." He then explains: “Men clon say an awful lot, but I suspect that may account for their going off with their inen friends a little too often."
You are wrong. Mr Lemon. The wives are not slack: they are hard-up. And if half the muney spent by husbands with their men friends was put on feminine backs, instead of down masculine throats, wives would look attractive enough to keep the old man at home.
ALLOWANCE
Tuo few husbands give their wives a fixed dress allowance, however small.
And all too often the lavish spender of the honeymoon rapidly becomes the close-fisted husband.
I know that many family budgets are strained these days. Even дот I still say it essential for a woman to have her own regular allowance for pocket-money and clothes even if it is only a Tow shillings.
AND THIS SHOULD NOT THE ANYTHING THAT SHE CAN SAVE ON THE HOUSE- KEEPING MONEY, which
lowering of human dignity Bexisten with most household budgets already overstrained, there would be a constant feel- ing of gullt in robbing it.
A pathetic letter is lying on my desk. The writer
is the wife of a man who is fairly comfortably off. He has
a good car, smokes a lot, and drinks with his
evenings.
friends most
THE CONSEQUENCE
the
ap-
She writes: "This is cause of the majority of divorce cases. The poor wife is not allowed enough money to dress herself in order to keep up her
attractiva pre-marriage
She becomes shabby penrance. andl depressed, and sequently not a very pleasant person to live with. So the husband looks for a more at- tractive female for sympathy
compansionship..
and
This one disillusioned woman echoes the heartaches of many.
But she has young children, so
The story of a revolution that affects every woman's wardrobe
This is the kind of dress that is worth a fortune
in the Unhappiness Business--the dress trade-today.
In cornflower blue silk and white muslin, it has been copied in London and New York.
And that sailor-collar trick, reported all over the world when it first appeared, is ripe for mass-production.
Robb
CHARTS HOW SEVEN TIMES
IN SEVEN YEARS THEY MADE HER CHANGE HER LINE
A New Set-up In The Unhappy Business'
took fortune, war, Once upon a Iand 15 years to change member?" clothes
ask:
it?"
Today "Which make is it?"
were
Recently it was Schiaparelli who announced that she was
time-rc- with the kind of dress that was a success just because it could not be and rationed. The would never date,
mass-produced and one qucation. the ques scarce tion a woman asks another storca were frantic for when she BEES her in a more to sell. dress she likes. Fifteen And the manufacturers, quitting. The woman at whose years ago a woman used to promising to do their beat, saw salon everyone who was anyone "Where did you get their chance to move up from wed to buy their clothes in making 10 more fabulous tailors to she asks: modest littlo
big creations, business tycoons,
The dress manufacturers bore," she and at 迎 week- The story that bridges began to build up their names end. "It is no fun any more,
glossy and it is far too expensive, the gap between is the...on poster sites, in
In newspapers, In a magazinen, unrecorded history of
slogans: "Look your best in revolution in the dress Windamoor". "It's a dream, business-a revolution that it's Hareila”........"It's a Susan threw up a new boss, # Small world"
.... "Dereta--the label of disainelion," new ruling class, new slogans, a new set-up; and left its trail of victims by
the wayside.
a
Bigger
"It has all become
such a
"All this business of sitting down twice a year to be 'Inspired' is a lot of rot. What does it all mean,
really the Tulip Line, the Scissor Line, and all the other 'lines?'
It's always
Summer when you see
Sun-n ́-Fun
COTTONS
SIZES 7----- 22. AND
PRICED TO SELL ON SIGHT
at the
LINEN CHEST LTD
"I shall create just a few new smaller dresses for my private clients 3 CHATER ROAD, 'CORNER ICE HOUSE ST. TEL. 21050
The name of the firm which made the dress got bigger and bigger, while the name of the store where you could buy it drifted further and further into the background.
at a price they can afford."
But the big money doesn't all lie with private clients any from more. Half of it comes the dress manufacturers.
What they want is a silhouetto that be copied at any
can
Before it happened dress manufacturer was little man with six dresses over his arm....The label ho stitched
cout into the
It was a shrowd move--and price level, and trick ideas that And. be mass-produced. he had made was ripped how it paid off!
above all, a fresh silhouette out by the shops....The Today thero are only three every 12 months....suficiently before London different from the ane clothes he made had to be top fashion stores in
want to make a woman what the shops told him to which can still afford to rip out to
tho manufacturer's name and throw away the clothes she has make.
put in their own....Today the and buy something that looks British dress trade is the second new largest in the world.
His label
Today B dress manu- in- facturer is a plushy dividual sitting comfortably in a new Rolls.
HE decides what he will offer the stores.
what women pay for.
HIS label in the coat
is
HE is the new boss
and
in
ia the business he has rocketed to turnover of more than 2500 million a year.
a
How did it happen?
15
740
"We're In the Unhappiness In 1938 women spent £246 Business," they say in the new the dress business, million on clithes. By 1852 play about
million "We want to make a woman the figure was £853 (although the price of clothes feel unhappy every time has not increased
that opens her wardrobe." much).
And the new bosses rose on The spending tide. (Asked why he had just bought a new Rolls one. of them explained; "You feel such a fool without one.")
The new boss
The
No one knows the Un- happiness Business better than the man' who has made warnen foot dissatisfied
their with wardrobes seven times in seven Dior (as years-Christian Robb's drawings show).
The new set-up was hated by some of the old top-liners. .Lelong, Molyneux, and Chapel the people longed to
the old tradition of a scale unprecedented even in Paris; who
nomes Paris, because
be- who
made their
The New Look
Modified New Look
The Brissors Look
The Talp Look
The Goblet Look
The Royal Milliner Adds A
He is hauling in the money on
he is the only
Princess Look --The Look today.
South
Sea Tang To His Latest Creations
London.
cannot go out to work herself. 71TH the Queen absent
the
By DOROTHY BARKLEY
Another now model was shaped like an Australian bush bat In miniature, made
designer who manages to keep: on his side both sets of power- ful clients the rich, private clients who buy his dresses to wear and the rich; 'manufac», turers who buy them to mass- produce.
To manufacturers Dior glyes quick-changing lines; to the others, the best cutting in Paris.
Prestige for sale
"One-third of the intanke aro sold to private cilente
"A labourer is worthy of his W in Australia two mill with lemons, plums, black- This is Kate Day's yellow organza and trimmed in Paris," Dior said, "one-third
hours cleaning, 312 hours
ON
hire," we read in the Bible.
And few
housewives have liners, who fashion hats for berries and fruit blossoms. favourite style, but she does have you succeed?with wattle. are for private ellents in the All styles are small and perch rest of the world, and one-third turned chance to slack today. A royalty.
their Usually there's just one not expect to sell many on the head. To distinguish are for dress manufacturers." recent American survey reports thoughts to styles for
previous There's no room them from small hats of fruit to each hat, but for a today.
worn at a His distinguished: clients give that the average woman cooks
special Easter bonnet she for them in the low modern seasons, they are 1,085 meals a year, spends 650 other customers.
finds cative tilt over the eye him enormous prestige and he And the new straws make last sells the prostige (as well as his breaks the rule and masses sports cars, and she the fruits and flowers to- that women prefer small year's seem out of date. There designs) to the dress manifac hats they can wear in all are straws with a sutin gleam, turers for a prical (£120 for
metallic
#rid strawe gether.
straw a cotton pattern of a suit, or weathers.
woven to look like checked 2200 for a simple evening dress, or £400 for an elaborate [ona).
laundry and 20 hours mending.
立
One of the milliners was
She fully enros the right to Kate Day, who soon cele.
small regular income of her brates her third anniver-
DWN,
And the should have a say in Bary as designer for the
Queen. deciding what is fair after rent und household expenses aro deducted.
The
She shows one big pic Lure hat, of the style which flourished at pre-war As- Kate Day goes in for cots. It is still called small huts, either bonnets "Ascot" hat, but is rarely Eileen Ascroft or boaters, and hangs them seen there these days.
HOLLYWOOD STARS' PET
HAIR
SHADES
ал
.
Last year's "umbrella" worsted. Ascot thoroughly dampen- BEAUTY AND HEALTH ed women's enthusiasm for
picture hats, and this lone model in Kate Day's collec tion is a souvenir of the past rather than a partent of the future.· ́
NEW STRAWS
But when the manufacturèrs, Home truths prosented to us have copied fat
by two health experts and production: Invel, it gives them psychologist during a health- the right to say: "This is a copy and-beauty conference:
of Dior."
1. Cosmetics applied to
And my how the prestige of ternally only help aidas, troubles (thomemade - worshe twin - jell if the internal condition, is good, and fingishwomán anything If you want to look your best;
·w.' Buttner · to bottle
been manufactured in England.
The second royal mil- at the cosmetics in the world price he would be willing It comes back to the old truism: of perfume, Pat twice the liner to show his collection won't aid if your diet is bad. to pay for it without the name was Ange Thaarup the Grass always given to even though she know it has Dane who has made hate valids are in fact the fruit for the Queen for many with the lowest vitamin content.
How will Mr Dior knows it. Hollywood. and I never let it get dry and role and a yellower or "cham years and for the Queen Best, in order of merit, are For the little man is sailing into
since for her latest Mother
the early blackcurrants, strawberries, to the wholesale game now with pagno blonde,
matoes, oranges, apricots, bananas the best label in the world. Insect when a woman dyed
used to be a deep, dark crackly."
Jane switched from champagne movie.
1930's.
and eltrus fruits. Janet Leigh furned "gardena
---Lokdon, Express' Beroles. snooty
shade so well she kopl Bang
on her lashes, a touch of pencil abe said.
11
,
on a trip to Austrails and about margarine. It would be New Zealand and has ob a great mistake if people gave viously sent back first-hand voting It when butter is information to his -Landon plentiful, because margarine Is
rich in vitamins.
4-༈ .: |
hor hair, but nowadays film but expected to return to blonde' for a movie and his At the moment be iss. We mustn't bo many of the Hollywood the champagne colour for her husband, Tony Curtis lond the
13p to Brazil. beauties dye for their art, Here are some other of her "I have to have it retouched their looks or just to get a beauty secrets. She uses mascara every 10 days, but it's worth it lift.
on her brows and lipstick for Jeanne Crain thinks her career staff. His new hats have a + Pressure cooking is by far And they let their fans know daytime wear. She takes good took an upswing after die cut her South Seas tange the best way to preserve the about the change.
care of her hands, creaming them hair short and dyed it "apitare
To condúre up the colour of vifarních" in food.. Kap often with hand ladon. For red. Her studio advisers, palend Jano Powell is one actress evening she goes all out for but Jeanne says had toplanod Tooga, be shows a chalk straw, provod that be the apos who is proud of her artificially, glamour, using powder, a deeper made her
Tegtie pink, and a parple value coloured trossos, and says every tone of lipstick and "lot and vivid. S
#She other woman should be happy lots of perfume.” “may and honest about dyed hair,
Jane firmly belleves good portance of having hair dyed. "Everybody's doing it," said grooming, is the bdale, for all a competent - Indr Jant. The only thing you can beauty,gelaste ko dawdd the anki that dyeing do wrong de to over bleach. Many other stam - opanky skye one beauty frontmênh, which sell I watch my hair carefully to be their halt. Marilyn Monroe was - means for the budgeć min wure 16. In in tip-top/condition, a diamond blenda, fog.
Mount United Pres
was the nationho vi flow
prosch
balance
the in thestylu. That pinsson (LÍN
amelia
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