i
THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 22, 1953.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
THE WAIST GOES UP AND DOWN
YOUR hats will be tinier
YOUR shoes will be bare-toed
• YOUR wool will look like chiffon
AND YOUR COLOUR FOR AUTUMN ........ BLACK
ONDON couturiers have high for
dresses,
L revealed their Autumn nightly dropped for auits
fashion secrets,
There is no revolutionary change in line, but the ten collections from London's top designers introduce ex citing noty fabrics and idens.
Topcoats have never been. more elegant. They are large and loose, but give a slim line, lightly flared towards the bot- tom. Wrap-around styles.
to the limit of the normal waist, dipping at the back. changed by day, but there are
Collars are many designs_for short even- very large and flat, like small ing dresses. Designers bellovo capes. There is much fur trim- that women bought grand ball
ming. gowns for the Coronation tes- Sults are alim-skirted, but wanting have small pleats for free mave- tivities and will be
formal shorter,
evening mont. Collars are bilef and very gowns for winter parties, din high. Double-breasted Jackets are more figure-revealing, with ners and theatres.
The strapless top is still with sloping shoulders, emphasised 119, but does not prettominale bull, anxi
sleeves that are often among evening styles. More three-quarter-length and set in popular is the attractive, wide very low or cut loose and full, decollete V-lino
Kimono-style. with tiny sicaves or the ono draped shoulder-strap in tulle.
curved hemline. Skirt length remaina un- luxuriously fur-lined, with a
Here comes the wander- ing waistlino aguin
PARIS
BLA
goes all-black, too
Paris. LACK, black and still more
black, in silks that resem ble wool, and wool that looks Ilke silk, This is the scene for autumn 1953.
Jean
Paris Patos, who opened the Paris collection, showed rough texture
flecked
tweed with black for day suits with small volvet collars; slim day dresses and black jersey in fine wool, and after-aix dresses with black velvet, Jace and sutin.
Secondary coloure Bre ali tones of red, midnight blue and nuft brown usually combined with black.
Top coals are much after
the London Ines, draped, loose filing and casual with a wide look across the shoulders which are still rounded. Sleeve arc low set, loose and
cuffed.
Suit skirts are still slim and the length is the same as last season. Jackets have a new look, cut with a wide shoulder line, sometimes padded to give
a rounded appearance. Sleeves are low set and loose above the
elbow frequently d
Waists are nipped but
to their lowest natural point.
Day dresser have the natural waist defined but plenty of hip interest achieved by
draping
three-quarter casually pull - up slcoves and variations on the square neck line.
Slim skirts
mare
TANG!
For his Chinese- inspired suit, Michos! hoi designed a toll hot in long silky haired felt it in in black of tan, called Tong.
Materials have never bren after the first Press show, my wonderful. I have seen reports will be released tally featherweight wools from Italy as the collections are present that look like a chitton, another English wool with a water cd,
mark ke moire #lik.
Hats are tinier than ever,
The London shows were open ed by Digby Morton and Michaei.
The lining is fur
EILEEN ASCROFT
reports
the autumn
fushions
for 1953
He mounts his skiria on allk top with shoulder stenps (reminiscent of the 90's),
but
in 1953 it is closely atted and covered by a rib-length blouso or tiny spencer. The result has all the emphasis on the bust- line of the Empire period.
Morion topcoats are mostly loose-fitting,
slighty
day
Wrap- glamorous
'.
Black predominates through- out the collections. Even in the shaggy rather bulky
looking shoes still very high-heeled and tweeds used for suits, coats bare-toed. and evea dresses there a
of towards the hemline, which is The long evening dress ap- black feck. Next come a series Most of the London collections OST Important feature
rounded. yellows I saw before I left for Paris,
is frequently AVA the Morton collection pears in both forms, slim and of beautiful Chinese
full-skirted Uraped, or
over and grey greens. Dark forest But as a fashion ban
round styles have exists the raised "wolstline for
linings of fur. voluminous
pettlcent. But grechs are general and there is on all London showings until wear. both are tiny waisted. In the a strong feeling for reti in all
Tweeds for his sulia' are SCA- shorter dinner dresses we find tones from palest shell pink 10,
thicker than in previous the full,
sons, often with a overcoat. Many of these have a black fleck. Waistlines on his jackets are interesting. At the lowest point the natural walst can be, but with n marked tirop to the back.
44
deep mugcate,
Lia's Impressions of Digby Morton's' collection for topcoats and a short cocktail dems with a swathed off-shoulder sterre.
THE NEWEST FASHION IS
THE
ANTI-TREND
New York. By FRANCINE du PLESSIX
several new kinds of wool-and- silk comblikation will make winter dresses that you can wear
ruby,
KEEP IN TRIM
Which Muscles Shape
The
Waist?
By IDA JEAN KAIN
matching
Mr Morton uses satin and delicate lace for evening gowns, many of which are full-skirted and calf-length. The strapless top
is largely replaced by the wide, decollieta V-line, with tiny sleeves or the one' draped shoulder strap.
Flocked tweeds ICHAEL, showing for MICHAEL & an independent member of the
Page 7..
for the loveliest legs in the world
Berkshire
12 DENIER
Nylon Stockings
60 GAUGE
Nolace Kentrun
15 DENIER 51 GAUGE
LENGTHS TO FIT MEDIUM LEGS
LONG LEGS
TYER & CO.
H.K. HOTEL BLDG.
a
own as
the
HILE the waistline it easy to control the waist WE
appears to be the first measurement.
The following exercises ro- to succumb to the dreaded store tode to the muscles re middle spread, actually the sponsible for the waist widening root of the trouble is lack of in the first place... tone in the bias girdle Fosition: Lying on back, feet muscles. This is leading up elevated to low bench.
Movement: Bend knees and Big Ten, chooses bulky look- to answering the reader forcibly separate the knees, but in flecked tweeds for
with amazingly slim lines. who wrote that her waist- make the girdle muscles Lake
His colourings arc faintly line had gone to pot and in the action, repeat a half dozen Chinore, sour yellows and grey quired which muscle
greens, flecked with raise hips silghtly off the
ara slim; Jackets Uny- responsible for this
and tilt them ddewards, pulling waisted, with wide shoulders situation.
in strongly with
side-front which have a loose movement muscles, for those aro
was times. From this same poor+ SKLES
sad
from the bust.
suits
black.
the uploves aro low-set, usually i
small or non-existent. One un- usual. model has a high, wide Chinese collar, very loosely cut. WORLD. COPYRIGHT RESERVED
-{London Express Service)
To get a general idea of muscles you are aiming to tone. how to tone in these muscles, Back to position, tilt hips to kimono-type, loose fitting, with shapes the waist, place opposite side, again pulling in three-quarter cuffs, Collars aro thumbs together, fingers forcibly with side-front muscles.
Repeat 12 times.......... spread apart and curving.
Position: Sitting on floor, legs That's roughly the way the
straight out in front of body, alde-front abdominals span hands clasped behind head, the figure and angle up- elbows bent. wards to insert sawtooth Movement: First pull strongly fashion to midriff ribs. It's up and in with middle muscles casy to see that when these and hold, as you twist gently to muscles become flabby, the the right, half way round, and bending forward but hold- waist bulks out.
ing strong up-and-in pull, touch Before we ease into specific left elbow to left knee. Re- exercise to tone the oblique' verse action. Later touch elbow to alternate knee. This involves muscles, take this figure test ...
making
the
An important trend has come into the world of the loose-waisted, snug-hipped right through next summer. fushion. But the best way "little boy" jacket,
If your
The colour keynote this Stand sidewards to a mirror, and twisting and is not safe if your to describe it is as an anti- measurements are closer to those culum is the jewel tono. pull up and in strongly with the dower back is weak.
de Milo than to Emerald,
Now... an your fect. Finlah of the Venus
girdle muscles, sapphire, trend.
those of Tight
mannequin, play thein turquale and Tommy shades of middle muscles take the action. with a thorough-going upstretch skirts
bouffant 80 and
down with a softly tailored red are used in both daytime and This allow up the waist. It's and a smooth side bend to reach skirts, 17-inch hems and 13-inch
Jacket and a gored skirt. The evening clothes.
plain to see that when you settle the muscles bounding the sides hems, hugging fackets and loose high-waisted "empire" line, and
Inte slumped posture, the waist of the allhouette. Bend first to boleros--all will be in style this the full-bosomed "tulip" line ad-
looks dumpy. Keeping those one side, then the other, centring autumn. Unlike former cras in fashion, the time has come when verticed last spring, are stayin the trend is towartis
muscles bracingly on the job the stretching action through through good posture will make the middle measurement. no one line is predominant, and through the autumn.
every woman is free to choose a
and needs.
Hairdoes are staying short; the neat sleek, pert bob, rather than the glamorous mane.
style to suit her particular, looks Wide-skirted evening dresses "Most women are copyists." are winning out over tight dinner Sophie said. "They'll buy the Kowns, There are few enough most preposterously unbecoming clothes just because they're sup- One of the ploneers for more eccasions nowadays on which variety and Individualism in woman can wear a floor-length posed to be the fashion. But, for sake, they'd better women's wear is Sophle Gimbel, dress, and, when she does, she their own
learn how to say 'no' to fashion, one of the country's most popular might as well look regal.
The trend in materials is and insist on styles that are designers of custom-made clothes.
If you're tall and slender, play towards more year-round fabrics, becoming it up with the skinny skirt and Heavy linens, pebbly sdlks, and Press
*
to them."--United
Girdle muscles take the action.
PARIS HAS MADE
Paris.
N just four days Paris
I Pan
A YOUNGER YOU
of you! Trim, small, with roundness of last season. Sleeves
and. uncluttered by
By Eileen Ascroft
neat head and pretty lega. are low-set, loose and fairly short. Nocklines are usually Most important change is, of course, the shortened hem line. round
Shoes will be decorative and tiny buns, but the general trend: But
don't panic about that. collars."
sandals is still short. Tho small waist is still very lightweight, like the These reports of knee-high
much with us, but it is a mould- designed by Jean Desses in black To sum up it will do a "little skirts are a little exaggerated.
and marron gitt" winter, and a very pretty Christian Dior has taken two ed waistline, starting just below antelope for day
little girl she will be. the bust that
and continuing down to glace satta for evening. inches of his hems, but
These have pointed toes, high
LONDON doesn't mean that his dresses the hips.
And it means that the real spindie heels and a Vertical shaw the knees or anything like you, or falling that, your founda- atrap running up the centre of Lion garment, must be very good, the foot la moet the fastep strap.
it.
BOON.
very
Black is RIGHT
twoode
It is a pretty young length. It spells death to spare tyres,
Haire stay short walk A
N old fallacy that black fa and I prophesy you will not only and will put many women on a Your winter hat will be
the country was wrong liko it but will be wearing it
diet.
tiny, and you will wear it klied by VICTOR UTIERKI two dress lines that have straight on the hand · with
tobacco-brown, Mostal his 14 And do not be afraid that the emerged so far have the same slight tilt over the forehead. It midnight blue and belas flat-chested look that went with moulded waist. One
has will probably be a version of the rough-- textured the old short dresses is coming Empire bust line and alim skirt. bellboy be keeping the short with black calf accessories.
www.speckled with black and worn back. It is not. The bust lino The other a small curved erino- "You will is lifted and accentuated this line skirt starting at the hip. curly hair you've grown to lore
sashes WORTH' shows many autumn, either by, draping or by Becklise your legs will in on over the last year. Some of the on sheath afternoon and evening outlining it in the Empira slyle, view to the world your stockings Paris bālzstressers new lengthann: gowns 22 Mars | unusual that
Shoulders are dednitely wider, will tend to be prettier and ingthelt styles pa lille få era bottes hag “wahire in mano but stinkeep the bame soft lighter in colour.
curls in the hape of the tech or
DIOR TURBAN
in mink,
Lashes Express Barvice. Warth's colours are all in the grey-prosta¦"radige, · with much wack velvet and bronze red laco are for evening and three tones of turquniso, milky, clear and Intense,
CREED Includes several black[
rimmat suits of luxurious and introduces leather, struplaas "on" country jackets. WORLD "COPYRIGHT"" IISERVED
(ESTD. 1900) -
TEL. 26410.
Mouson
Lavender
with the mail coach
A FEW OF THE WIDE RANGE OF EXQUISITE PRODUCTS BY MOUSON
FOR HIN AND WONEN)
· Obtainable at all leading wom
Solo Agents: BORN TRADING 'COMPANY 209 Gloucester Dailding, Hong Kong. Tel 11259
Modern Masterpieces
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
SWISS. IMPORT EXPORT TRADING CO.LTD.
Sola Agents for H.K, Macao & China”