THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY; AUGUST 16, 1952.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
LONDON
ROME
Interna
PARIS
**
LONDON
ROME
Anne Edwards gives you the
kay to this whirlwind Wook of high fashion shows Make no mistake, she says,
in the world'o' capitais.
all this activity is aimed at the girl who buys clogance with
dollara. SHE IS–
THE GIRL they all have designs on .
Grey Denim
SE is the girl who will dominate the dress shows
in London, Paris, and Rome--although she will not be at any of them. She is the girl every top dress designer is out to please—although she is not one of his customers. She is the girl whose eye they all want
Play Outfit to catch-although she will not see any of their clothes,
By GRACE THORNCLIFFE
IT IS nice to see denim in a while in its once Baual habitat, rather than for town or party
21
clothes. So nice for beach, sail boat or yard, is denim in deep charcoal grey done up into pedal pushers. White stitching adorns the hip pockets which button down with smoky pearl buttons. The sleeveless blouse is of red and white striped cotton with convertible neckline.
凸
For she is the average American girl.
She is the girl who will wear the dresses that
American buyers have come to Europe to get, to copy, and to mass-produce.
She is the girl with A few dollars in her purse. And today
he is the most important dress
client in the world.
ce
upon a time. Most
Important Clients
were very
ifferent. Once upon a time
was
it
the international rich women who buttered the bread for the dress designers.
Now there are scarcely enough Eastern princesses, Hollywood Blm stars, or American million-
airesses to keep опе
designer's head above water.
Bood
Barbara Hutton does her best.
("7'll take them,” she
ported to
have sald
re-
after
seeing Balenclara's collection last 5c23011, "Certainly, madame," came the
"Which reply. ones?" "Oh, all of them," said Miss Hutton calmly.)
THE DIOR DOOR
The Duchess of Windsor helps
to keep the wolf from the Dior door.
Eva Peron used to order the most fabulous dress in Balirnin's collection. The Shah of Persia's wife did her bit, by wearing a wedding gown flown from Parls so heavily embroidered that she could scarcely move.
Rita Hayworth, while she was in Paris with Aly Khan, put the cream in the coffee for Jacques Fath
But a baker's dozen of rich private clients won't keep alloat nearly 100 Arst-rate dress houses in Paris, 11 In London, and 10 in Italy. Only the gigantic American dress Industry is rich enough these days to keep the designera going,
.....
That's why the red carpet goes down all over Europe today for the tough, rich, shrewd buyers from the United States.
"Walk up, walk up," they say in London. "Come to us for the best woollens, the best suits, the best tailor-mades."
Built-in bra, fong-mado panel, which acts as a girdle, guar-
antees perfect figure control in the most modern swimsuit.
(uide to
Anne
is off to Paris
BOR5011
the London Fashion Isunched, Anne Edwards will be off to Parts to report the opening of the 1952 shows for readers.
"Walk up, walk up," they say In Rome, "Come to us for elabor- ate silk and evening dresses at half the prices you pay in Paris."
"Walk up, walk up," they say In Paris. We have the best ideola, the best seamstresses, the greatest chic."
*
THE
GIRL
WITH
.
Here Comes The Big Top
Look
By DOROTHY BARKLEY
London.
ATTENTION of the First
Eleven designers has shifted away from the "wan- dering" waistline and pelti- coated skirtline of last sea- son. It fixes this season on the "Big Top" look-a top. heavy appearance created by boxy jackets and outsize stoles, some trimmed with fur or velvet, worn above slim, straight skirts. (Seen at Michael Sherard, Norman Hartnell, Peter Russell and Michael at Lachasse).
narrow
for
woven
Velvet is the material coats, suits, evening dresses. Several new types are seen in- cluding a black velvet with a
stripe -white through it horizontally at two- Inch intervals (ot Hartnell) and velvet embossed on matching salin in floral designs (at Victor Stiebel).
*
•
Green is the colour, though it may be any one of half a dozen shades, including ilex, forest, emerald, water, duckpond and escargot. Most popular tweed is green woven with black. Any other sombre colour good; caviare, mole, or
quagmire
are equally fashionable. And just as we were beginning to think colours
had sunk
retrievably into a slough of de- "spindle- along came
spondink, "pervanche"
blue
(a bright, Van Gogh blue), and "blood" orange (a pinky orange).
Materials, Includa dress weight Donegal tweeda, pin- check
suitings, Otterburn twoeds, and lambswool. An element of surprise comes with awning-striped shantung
$$
evening,
TO
PAY
"Walk up, walk up." says small voice from Spain, "We're in the bazuar, too, this summer.'
So down with the red
carpets and up with the striped awnings. Bring on the champagne, the flowers, the crowds, the perfume -and, of course, the dresses.
For. If the British women are not so much in the pleture this year, at least it is always nice to know what kind of new dress to, buy when you do get around to buying one, it's always nice to know what kind of zip to give the dresses you have; and it's always nice to know just who is doing whom in the eye in the fight over That Girl they have all got designs on.
(London Express Service)
(UMMERTIME can be disr rous for a
St
girl who enjoys the beach, yet has to rely upon a carefully-selected brassiere for perfect figure symmetry. For swimsuits, needless to say, are more revealing than any other costume, and what a dive your glamour rating can take if you show up
one that "tells all" by revealing nothing!
In
You can't make up for Mother Nature's deficiencies by using bust pads either, for while there are occasions when you can use them, at the beach-they're strictly beyond the pale. No matter how carefully · inserted into your sult, their presence is obvious,
What, then, does the figure-conscious girl do? The girl who is an in-between size and needs a built-up brassiere? Or the average figure, wearing a full A, B or C cup, who finds that most swimsuits tend to press her bosom down, giving an unattractive, unnatural line?
*
The answer is no obvious that we marvel no one has thought of it before. This year, for the Aral time, there is a line of swimsuits on the market with built-in brassieres which guarantee to keep their shape-and yo
100. The obvious. In presence of the built-in bra is no fact, it cannot be detected at all-uxcopt for the marvellous way it works on your figure.
of streamlined styling
the suits Tho doesn't stop at the bosom, either. Abdomen con- trol is obtained by means of a centre panel of lono- thin fabric used for making girdles. You'll not be held in as Armly as in your girdle, of course, but that extra control works wonders on a tummy that isn't entirely fat,
Made of water-repellent velvet and Inton taffeta, they are decorated with gunmetal pearls or rhinestones and, happily, are hast as lovaly when you emerge from the water as they are on the beach, for each has been tested and re-tested 'under all sorts of swimming conditions.
•
So take a figure inventory now.. And even If 'Mother: Nature did forget you when she was doling out the curves, you needn't miss a lot of summer fun. Belenco bas dane to your - FESCUE. Got in the swim!
for
shining cellophane georgette, wool taxe and straw velvet,
Hats vary. Little-boy velvet сара
peaked all the way round, piped to match sult blouses; mob
in felt; berets edged with persian
cupg
tricome
lamb, skull caps, pillboxes and hats with high cone-shaped
crowns.
Evening dresses, grand and formal with full-crinolined skirts giving a hint of things Year to come in Coronation arc no longer strapless. In- have halter-necks, stead, they scooped out necklines, or create a cold-shoulder look with one sleeve only.
MICHAEL AT LACHASSE, who presented the "Masher" suit inst season, is the origina- tor of the "Big Top". An out- size version of the normal to stole, it is made in tweed match the suit, and worn back wilh the Ho at front
cecond theme is the loosely atted Gaucho jacket of inspired by the Cauchos
Cut with more width
TD
to the back.
Micxico.
than length, it is set on a round shoulder
and low yoke. To accentuate width, sleeves are long and full. They accompany slim skirts and dresses.
.
Starred in this collection is a cocktail mult gold lame,
511 alecved, edged with
delman mink
10s
of
MICHAEL BHERARD shows Jackets with deep batwing Eleeves reaching from armhol? to waist. Hems are trimmed
bands of
seal. with broad Coats have pyramid collars emphasised with fur trimmings. But on dresses, Sherad maintained the roundness bodyline" of Last season.
Starred in his collection is a white velvet evening dress, simplicity itself, cut on prin- cess lines, with fitted wakat and full dirt; its round neckline is edged with ermine.
deniably smart skirts,
HARTNELL Elso shows some
look. thing of this top-heavy Baxy Jackets, self-styled "loose- fitting and
shapeless straight pro un- They are trimmed an
and buttons, pockols beit with black. His crinolined evening gowns are magnificent, Starred is a black velvet crino- line, and limb yellow "overcont" with atted valvet bodice, and tullo: dirt,
collar,
PETEN RUSSELL, a country- man born and bred, and o huntin', fishin and shootin type, is fond of producing a
of sophisticated town version Country
Invariably clothes, shows twood drostes and jackets impeccably tellured for. wear. This season
the
"La-de-da" jacket, turns out to be a town cousin riding
of a Victorian lady's habit. It is elegant, taclored, has rounded revers, longer- than-average peplum, cutaway front and Inverted pleat at the back.
amelia
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