THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 1952.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Spring Is Coming
Extreme left: A creation in ntraw Embellished with a white
muslin flower effect.
Left-centre: The theme is Brittany. Here is a model displaying the designer's idea of the native French head- dress in Brittany.
*
Right centre: A chirpy toque in white salin sel off by a camellla rose in while and red.
Extreme right: Black
ploat
In the shape of a heart. The
Lorder is of velour.
The famous costumier, Rose Desbat, has just presented her collection of Spring hats in Paris and those shown here are from her collection.
THE
A
LONDON SHAPE Inspired
And the Edwardian"Masher" tops the news
LONDON. By MURIEL SNOW and was quite electrifying in Ita
S always the new suits from Lachasse inevitably herald the Spring in London - and Spring in the Fashion world is like New Year's Eve-full of promise, of
un tho anticipation of known, of the future which downs.
THE MASHER'
INIEC
15
the new
-line
from the
Waist,
sudderne.
10
SPOTLIGHTED: A neat little caped, sleeveless erat of the new iff, grey fabric, a jutting skirt and altogether very pert looking. Fitted shunting! coris, one of brilliant plum eulatır.
det embroidered waist band to 11 black suit.
resistance-a
gund
an
The whispering, many layered grey chiffon dress. Its exquisite botero embroidered in silver with a big plain bow antying beneath the chin to reveal a halter neck, and midriff completely covered with the same silver bends.
Comfort
BLACK!
The Paris silhouette without a waist
By SUSAN DEACON
Pro
Paris. London or Paris so far. Coilena
bold
shadow-printed and have Mexican flowers and animals bordering the hem line. For colours, plnky belgo take: the place of navy blue and grey. Evening Ureases in the Carvin collection are mostly full length with one bare shoulder.
THE first day of the spring dress shows opened in Paris with collections by Jacques Heim, Rruyere, and Paquin: the masters Dior and Fath have yet to show.
And I the first day is any- thing to go by, it will be a spring season of untrimmed hats, combre colours, ̧ and lots of
black.
Low sleeves The biggest fashion news so far is in the hip line and the sleeve.
The HIP LINE la emphasised with either skin-tight hip drap- Ing on a straight skirt or by all- round fullness or pleating start- ing at the hips.
The 'masher'
IN LONDON the Big Ten concentrated mostly on tailored suits, dresses, and matching jackets and top coats,
Lachasse's "masher" line for suits is
the newest London a straight skirt line. It hay and boxed Edwardian jacket with high flat revers.
♥
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I liked the London short even- Ing dresses with their feminine fluffy skirts shown by Hartneli and Hardle Amics. Colours in London were as sombre as in Paris.
RX-
(London Express Service.)
달 •
.
SLEEVES are often set in the shoulder seam.
The rounded shoulder line is fashionable again. Paquin shows enormous sleeves on loose coats and day dresses which balloon out in winged point.
there were magnifrent evenino and ball dreases-the rostling of their great, sweeping skirt still echo in the ear.
Worth focuses attention 021 the tight bodices and feminine for silk dresses but skirts
The emphasises a shade, the front
The piece ile
black falllo denil- fullacs a difcult line to
wear Tavishing
dress: evening
swathed bodlee The pro save by the young and lean, beneath a minute velvet-banded
first fulfilled
In
Doubtless because of this, there halere, the long hip line tight, Edwardian "Mosher"
Svelto then joined to a deep, wide line-high buttoning with smali la the alternative line.
half overskirt flounce; a revers, cutaway front, the whole from the draped, low bodice to
swathed skirt, often two over to one side making #luose
tapering
hém which uneven
was em- shoulder to
hem.
Secondly in Innse panels springing from a
phasised by a two inch band of the more conventional suits of knot at the bosom. Sleeves are
Lick velvet Border tweeds & West of Eng- mostly
passementerie, short and softly fuft The
The thick, light navy blue and flannel-still with the ac- caught into a narrow band. In grosgrain suit, le grly
nipped-in centuated
ballooning. Victorian Jucket with peplum dropped padded shoulder line; the conts they aro -the-shorter, slightly cutaway, The diaphragm_In_must of the Bipline over spreadjag skirts.
double- breasted Jacket,
the day and evening dresses Fondly padded hips & much emphasised by light, fins draping broader lapels; the cuffed sleeves Cuffed bodices are much used and still more of his successful
for designs with abort, rounded back pleated or flapped skirts.
Lolcros. This is
of the nne
few who designers
can make ū country sult it for the country FABRIC for day are with a skirt not so tight that it would prove to be a handicap in unerushable surahs, shantungs, Mugnificent satins and fuilles are the first ploughed field. Equally organzas and a glazed gauxe-all lavishly some of his wool dresses are the with an appearance of fragility miniscent of a more leisurely age and graceful made of living. quintessence of distinction for but in fact of remarkable sup- Chiffons, muslins, organzas and Inowledge
of pleness and quite frm. Most of tulle also enter the picture.
growing the country. Witness the one of
number of credits to various in- navy blue; full, fine
Anely pleated
Delicate embroidery Is much neckline out the silks are printed in suial), skirt, horseshoe
for their creations. used to enhance the richness of spirations lined with big bone buttons and geometrical designs.
fabrics.
The credits are usually confined wide pique collar; or the grey.
new coat fabric was A
To particularise the eau de to historical eres or the national which has the with seams across the waist at troduced
and parchment
coloured costumes of various lands. But the back, releasing to a fall of pearance of stiff silk tweed. "In Nile
faille with bodice and centre now comes along silver grey it was used for a
another coal ROOSO
with tremendous panel encrusted with gold and
source, that of the get - up A palest pink a pearl embroidery, inta olar folding almost
heavy grosgrain evening coat-
known as army fatigues. It has
I was sorry to see that Parla reminiscent of the late 13th been used as a base for a comfy is still showing strapless even- century in its splendour lavish lounging outfit that is all in one Ing and cocktail dresser.
Strapless dresses are finished is seen this season in a new in- COLOURS: By day dark greys ness. The upstanding collar and piece and is made with a drop in London. They are no longer terpretation-a
coat of bottle predominate and a very lovely tight bodice cut out exposing the seat and overalze patch pockets. In
of the block lace mounted: on navy shallow-sea
seen in bosom
dress The fabric is grey denim do- green
neck or single The halter beneath. The full-skirted white 13ffeta with a sweeping skiri, surah. For evening paleat pink
with white slitching shoulder strap has taken their worn over a green Paisley silk and grey are the two which are satin - its little cuffed tight cornted
place.
In Paris TULLE and LACE are still fashionable for evening dresses which are now finely plented, wide-skirted, short or full length, and for pleated from the waistline.
material at the side.
#
#
*
NEW INTERPRETATION: shawl. The designer's success of de
Hentely tailored lace over taffeta
dress of brighter huc. It is an Ascot ensemble of considérable elegance.
It can be said that throughout there is the indelinable, subtic colouring-greys, yellows, pinks. Further that while there is no startling change in outline, yer the feminine . further stressed this year; expressing the unspoken need for practical yet supremely distinguished clothes.
ly
19
As these last two years there: has been this trend towards the rounded fine, it seems reasonable to assume that it will continue but not lo extremes as far as country cluthes are concerned because it would defeat their object.
As yet the difference between this year and last year not so pronounced as necessitate wholesale discarding of wardrobes except among the dwindling numbers of those who must follow fashion closely. On other hand it does make clothes of two or three years ago look rather ald-fashioned. From this point of view it is likely to bring a fair number of orders to the trade, Belng more waisted is likely to appeal very much to the Latin American market and oven to North America, where. hitherto it
the
that
considered WIB the typically English country clothes were too severe although the tailoring itself
was always
highea
to
esteered. In South America, in particular, it tends reconcile two conflicting in- elination, that of wanting to appear very English and at the nome time satisfying the natural Latin destre for pronounced waistlines.
From this point of, view it augurs well for British export prospects. The present, fashion. is not too elaborato to be copied. to meet the capacity of tho slander purse; zo zorrow waiste and rounded hips will hot be the privilege of the rich but in duc
will come. course
into General wear.
BUSTLE OF "W SPRING: Worth heralded Spring lo London in way that was noticeably different from Michael ́of Lachasse,, . For at Warth, In contrast with Lachatso's Edwar- dian, "Masker” Sjacketøy-- and i warp-waisted country clothes,
。
blue
is
in-
THE GRANDE TOILETTE:
the
used for these,
re-
Denim campus outfit.
Each
By VERA WINSTON
seacon designers
an ever
is
a
good
to the fore but the startling bodice a mass of clustered pearl and cinched with a wide belt of Prussiari blue, now called drops-a design of the utmost black calf. This
campus special. Cerulean blue, was introduced delicacy.
"BALLOONS"
FOR SPRING
Balloon sleeves are featured in this creation
of white tle silk taffeta
shown by Herbert Sidon in his spring collection at
London.
Heim ignores the waist line. Many of his suits have loosely belted boxy jackets.
The skirt length is about one inch longer, but the neck line is higher on day dresses, White schoolboy collars and soft bow ties are in.
COLOURS are mainly all- black [with black accessories] or white (with black ac- cessories], Vivid coloured cessories are worn with shades of grey or beige.
Still strapless
ac-
English fabrics are used by many Paris designers.
Wintry hats
HATS: The pastel-coloured straws massel with spring flowers have unhappily almost disappeared.
This year's straws and folis are vivid-coloured either un- trimmed or with ribbon or feather mounts.
They looked wintry, CARVIN'S collection Is the most
Interesting вла mo.l colourfully dressed show seen in Paris so far. The clothes are Inspired by a trip to Mexico.
The trend follows that of the other shown with flowerless hats, lots of sleeve interest, and skitis. both wide and narrow The hem line in this, collection Is again one inch longer.
Fine
prints
Carvin has some of the most beautiful prints, seen in either
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