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WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
A Scalloped Line For Spring
By JOAN
HRISTMAS is followed
closely by the "haute
couture" collections, and already many women are wondering whether the new drastic senson will show a change in colour and line.
Most of the model house in which the ex- collections, treme "haute couture” trends
ERSKINE
were
necks,
similar-halter tight-fitting bodices and full skirts. One was knife-pleated and the other suray-pleated. been the dresses had Both
effectively washed,
proving that they needed no ironing to retain the fine pleating.
First Time
For the first time, too, this of both Paris and London are designer showed
plaid wool eleverly Interpreted and Jersey Jackets teamed with adapted to suit everyday needs, pleated white skirts. All detall have been seen already. Judging was "below the belt," whether from these, the slim, tailored in double fastening beginning line of last year will continue at the waist, or in hip drapery. indefinitely. If possible, it is an There were many novelly silks
but even narrower silhouette,
woven into herringbone, din- now types of pleating add
mond or squared patterns. A softer touch.
light navy silk sult had a pale Arthur
his Banks showed
blue waistcoat and facings. Set- collection against 题 spring
as well waistcoats, ns background of winter flowers separate ones: slit cuffs showing scarlet carnations and
contrasting edging; and scal- white chrysanthemums, His
trimming were loped braid blue, navy main colour was
some of the sult details and the fabric that formed the
The newest spring coats are
snow
in
The lovely evening town (above left) in heavy navy grocgrain trimmed with guipure lace marguerites comes from Arthur Banka' Spring collection.
------and the navy grosgrali
with pout
restrained trumpet hemline (at right) also comes from the Arthur Banks' Spring
collection, Guff, detalls aro nocented with scalloped brald.
was in pale blue grosgrain, and there was the suggestion of a train in the skirt. With it was coolic a tailored Jacket. Two jackets were also shown-one in matching grosgrain, with the slit sides and high neck em- broidered with pale blue silk braid: and the other in the most brilliant cerise grosgrain, black and pale blue with braided slits and collar.
was In The second tailleur heavy oyster satin with In- bodize and tricately tucked
brocade jacket. organdle,
Spotted and plain crinkled nylon, and tulle were tight made into dresses with fitting bodices extending to just waist level, and then. below
from a bursting into fullness
Often the skirt- diagonal line. hem was uneven, to show the feet at one side only.
Interesting Variation
Hand-knitted dresses are 'in' again
[AND-KNITTED dresses
Hand sults are having a
com-
cream
over face
Included In this collection I ...Rovive a colourless saw on all-round pleated skirt plexion, mix a little which can be made to measure rouge with your foundation of...sweaters knitted in authen-
tic tartans ....
a bolero which cream, and smooth can be worn'
three different and neck, ways...mon's sweaters knitted In cashmere...and a copy of a Princess Anno, set worn by which sells for two guineas.
fashion revival. Many the skirts aro Imitted in firm rib stitch, which mains permanently pleated.
I
These ден hand-knitted clothes (which have always beca, considered stodgy by the younger generation) are ter than many fabric dresses.
Party beauty tips smar-
They are made in sophiall cated colours and even with low-cut bodices, making suitable for party wear.
To
...Give a bright look to your hair, spray it with brilliantine. when the hair is wet.
Bunches of drinking straws tled firmly, in the centre and
For them
Prices of these clothes vary, but they are specially treated to help them keep their shape and give longer wear,
Your
keep insting make-up, pulled out at each end maito. apply astringent to the face, an attractive decoration. use powder base sparingly and powder generously. Leave Ince
the table-stand
red, thickly
for a few lighted candles in water in a powdered minutes, then brush off sur shallow flower bowl Seal the plus,
candles to the bowl with nall ...Make Upstick lasting, pat varnish, and arrange flowers the lips with Eau de Cologne around the
bases of the after applying lipstick.
candles.
Lips Can Be Lovely
By HELEN FOLLETT
NEXT to the eyes, the mouth, advancing towards middle age, pulling down the lip ends. Wo- who go in for facial perhaps, is the most important She knows that facial loveliness mon feature. During a complexion depends upon soft, strong, well- gymnastics, puckering the lips, treatment
pressing them close to the teeth, A beauty operator kept, perfectly-moulded lips.
them to one side will give considerable time to The surrounding muscles are or drawing
them- the treatment of mouth contour, fine and delicate, are affected are not being kind to
The beauty of the especially
If the customer is unfavourably by the habit of relves.
mouth is largely in the expres- slon,
Your Waist-line Is Your Life Line
varicose velns, and hernia are all more common in those who Even suicides are overweight. are more frequent in this group. Most always a person becomes
By H. N. BUNDESEN, M.D.
FOR twenty-five years I bave been preaching the philosophy that your waist-dine is your life line. the longer the first, the shorter the second will be. Re- cent research has done nothing to change my opinion that over- weight is a definite hazard to life and health. On the contrary, it has done so much to confirm it that today many have come to regard obesity as the greatest present problem in preventive medicine.
25.
overweight not because he has some glandular disturbance, but because he eats more than he Even when glandular nocus. disturbances are present, there would be doctors
gain in the person ate weight unless too much.
NO EXC
Over a period of years, people certain
There
undoubtedly psychologic
K are
to a
this same
of
LIP BORDERS
'These special treatments con- sist of rotary movements along the lip borders after which the lip ends are lifted quickly and lightly to give tone to the flesh in those areas. Stroking move- ments from ends to centro REC used to iron out any worry ince that have settled there,
LIP EXERCISES
If lips are thin and narrow a "fluting" movement le used to give more fullness. It consists of quickly lifting the lips with singer and thumb. This is not done if the lips are wide and heavy.
A light cream is used during the treatment, after which a cold compress is applied. A gauze pad is dipped in ice cold water, laid over the ap- plication
repented several ilmes until the lips glow with colouring.
Most people have an idea that get accustomed it is
is normal to gain weight with, bulk of food. years.
While this does happen bulk can be maintained, but the in the majority of persons, it is caloric or hat value reduced, a at all. The mass of loss of weight will occur. For not normal at
of partients A white Up stick should be muscles gradually become less example, a group
and the were given a bulky diet contain- used at bedtime to keep the skin after 25 years of age body weight, therefore, should ing only one calorie per gram of smooth, free of little shaga that at 50 than at food and they lost weight. When often appear when the skin has actually be less
contain-
Unless the lips they were given a diet
become dry. per gram of DANGER OF CONDITION Ing 2% calorles
are smooth to begin with it is difficult to make a good job of I should like to convince every food, they all gained weight.
MORE LEISURE
tinting with the rosy stick overweight men and woman of
number
Rouging the lips in public is the danger of this condition. If I could, I could
factors which also regarded by some as an uniovely a girl can avoid basis of the whole collection all made of heavy grosgrain
So An interesting variation on save many lives because, once have to do with obesity. During habit and, if was a new grosgrain.
It is an and are
suitable for cocktail
the "mermaid" trumpet convinced, they would take the the change of life, women gain doing it, she should deoist.
apply your make-up in private English grosgrain, which has
theatre nights, or
the fact that they have more If possible and take time to do taken two years to make, and is parties,
general "dress-up" occasions. It line was a pale pink and silver matter seriously enough to make weight, and this may be due to
a neat job, uncrushable.
To make applica- disorders, leisure, and suffer from boredom was quite startling to see one of brocade with halter neck and the effort to reduce.
There are many, Teaching apron front
tions as the and increased nervous tension
easier try using a long chiefly those known these coate made of navy blue tight
degenerative discases, Wa
which they attempt to relieve by lipstick. grosgrain. with white polka to the feet in a point, Three
FOOTNOTE: Don't spoit the For example, persons. get fat because
beauty of your mouth with weight persona. Agures show that high blood have some difficult problems pressure occurs three times more which they do not attempt to "facial gymnastics." Be careful about Upstick syplication, 100. often in overweight persons solve but, means of escape, For a neat Job, try a long than in others.
they indulge in excessive eating.
lipstick. The American people are not
The best treatment for over- only the best fod people in the weight is restriction of the diet. world, but they also have the The overweight person highest death rate from diabetes. learn to push back
A Prediction
Or
dots all over, Seldom, if ever. deep frills of tulle fanned out at chromore dangerous in over-eating. On the other hand, some
There
was
that
are
19
they
must
He predicts grosgrain coats, suits and evening dresses for
are patterned fabrics used for the back from waist to hem
A heavy white grosgrain dress the new season; very few three- costs.
was decorated with three rows Illustrated is a typical groS- quarter length sleeves; hardly any crepe; no fancy prints, only grain coat, also navy blue, with of black scalloped braid at the small domino spots; and much a restrained trumpet hemline. strapless top, and the slightly navy, white, grey and yellow, A The revers, pockets and cuffs gored skirt had vertical stripes
with
of the braid at wide intervals accented
alloped Another white grosgrain Bkirt new material used for summer are
with braid, from dresses la
four white mode
was trimmed at the hem
from the different rayons, and has a curved loole about many of the
suits and coats due to rounded appliqued black lace, and short The Agures show that diabetes table short of repletion. The first
white
tringes worsted Anish.
cascaded
is more frequent in overweight two or three days of the reduc The tailored Une has found revers, curved pockets, curved
down another from neck to hem
persons, and that
ing programme are the hardest. ond scal- its way to evening dresses also; cut-away jackets,
With one white dress, deep crim-
Słowa
up more often in the After this time, the stomach hemlines. Scalloped
gloves were son velvet long a boon to the woman who can- loped
obase. Overweight persons also, gradually becomes accustomed not
romantic evening bruid wear
extensively, worn, and on another the wide
hemline was deeply scalloped.
weight. Even and it is easier to continue on gowns, and whe looks place
Illustrated is a dress which deaths from wccidents are more the restricted dot.
Of course, the diet must be Bounces,
combines the severe line with the frequent in the obese. As one the first time in this Grosgrain, Grosgrain For
new spring coloure-the heavy investigator has said, "When a kept well balanced at all times, the necessary Lood pleated country, permanently
fat man falls, he falls harder." supplying navy grosgrain is decorated with ARTHUR nylon was used by
Arthritis, gallbladder disease, parts. BANKS. He did so in a plaid
gulpure face marguerites. design, for two evening dresses, one short and one long. Styles
Wan used
do not enduro out of often contrasted with a darker
in feminine frills and colour.
Compromise Hair-Do
"Compromlas" is the name of the vogue-ish new colf. fure sported by lovely Gin- ger Rogers in Warner Bros.' forthcoming drama, "Storm Warning. It's a savere up- sweep, with a soft,
oft, twisted bun near the top of her head. It
created was especially for long-haired femmes Hike Ginger, who want to look like their short-haired and `shingle-bobbed contempora- rios, yet retain their own Individuality.
all The
as embroidery hand-done and look the form of finely worked black roses on fern a sult pocket, a delicate design on a rever, or a re- It was curring wheat motif. most effective on silver-birch
the of
most grosgrain-one beautiful colours in the colles- tlon. One Jacket In this shade was worn with a tight black skirt. Often there was no de coration on plain suit, save for a huge deep-coloured rose worn high at the throat.
after- Two of the prettiest noon dresses were white spot- ted. One was steel grey with a pleated off-the-shoulder neck- line and tight skirt. The other dis- was gold art silk, barily tinguishable from the genuine fabric. A plainer dress had a neat bodice with flop pockets and a skirt of graduated box
pleats which crossed over at the top underneath each other (invisible from the outside), giving it great elasticity. Two
were maternity dresses
pro-
What's Best For duced, both in navy blue. One
Femme Figure
style. was a simple wrap-over the edge lined with white pique. The other was ́a slim barle dress also in wrap-over style, Prinz, Say LeRoy
famous but the bodice developed into tied beauty picker for Warner Bros. an apron skirt which
of ter.
neatly round the waist and pletures and maestro
mado a tunle top. palchorean spectacks: "There's nothing
Hot-Weather Suite
it
the
femme better for
that grand Agures than
old dance called
Charleston It's impossible for giris
Pure alik shantung in cream who
and ice-lemon shades made to Prinz knows bulges
two inmaculata bot-weather mits. A plain high-necked all about the Charleston from beving staged a torrid sesión black shantung - blouse a was.
pretty worn with ano. of It, Including the girls, for Warner Bros., techni- colour musical
Comedy "Toa
For Two."
The first of the evening taillours was a halter necked | dress of 'very simple design. It
cancer 130
as those of ery as well' to the lessened intake of food
IT MAY BE
NEW YEAR
SO NOW SHE MUST DRESS for the PARTY
from IRENE RICHARD
PAR18.
- The girl steps out in Paris. Her evening gown (from Dior sweeps the ground. She looks just right to go to a party and is. Why? Because French women are gaiting more and more evening-dress-minded, especially for private parties.
"Dressing
in public is reserved for gala nights in restaurants, for concerts-about the most elegant entertainment In Paris and first nights, but carply for Indiscriminate theatre wear, as in England. Fashionable, women are almost all in favour of ground- length gown—although the short, practical, adaptable model is far from dead.
Dior works on the principle of a super-simple sheath Une
elegantly decorated
Those with floating panals. frequently Introduce shaded effects, developing out of a cleverly draped bodice... Femininity is also the keynota of afternoon and cocktail design, in which dressmakers contrast tallored with dressy lines the latest formula for an up-to-the- 'minute model. Fallla. Is the smartest fabric, and dead
lest brown a popular colour.
There is also revived interest in blouse-and-skirt evening numbers, slim-fitting, but very dressy-making play of colour and fabric contrasts.
Tiny feather, hats are smartest cocktali and dinner wear, chessy chapeaux being important once more, They are cip of turben typas, cut in an irregular shape round the forehead, framing the face,...
Paris hairdressers have devised some colffures in which
plamies are as important as the hair,
Landet Sapon derulos.
Fur. On
Fur
Persian lamb with seal irim.
By VERA WINSTON ›
FUR on fur seems to be the good word for the new season'a crop of fur garments. And very handsome coats are avaliable In every price range, offering good value in now working and handling of skins and novel designs
accents. and Black Perslan lamb is used for
ave-eighth livaly
cont awnEECT
with black Alaska soal for the graceful collar facing and for the low placed buttons at elther side of the front. In this coat, us, in so many others, the fullness is to the aides ralber than to the
A
back
length