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THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, DECEMBER
1950.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
London Adopts A "Chinese" Look
By
LONDON.
JOAN ERSKINE
the season
there
****
It was introduced at one of prefer these to imitations, which of cost almost as much, But for VERY now and then the most colourful parties
compered by the those who cannot afford this, we hear of the Eastern Burmese model Saignon, whose and do not like the heavy orm- influence in dress de. Oriental beauty was enhanced mentation,
Gre many by a dazzling black velvet dress adaptations of the coolle jacket, sign or hat styles. This
Alwynn and cont designed by
of Selgnan Wears one in dark usually heralds a return to Paris. The sheath-like drests, green satin, fastened with huge
with straight tight skirts, slit at
usually worn with tight trousera, the sides; high round white ground at the top, and the They serve many purposes. Chinese collars; short coolie tight-walsted coat has a dragon younger girl can wear a tight
worked into the skirt. Her long skirt
beneath kit would although jackets flowing out from a black hair, elaborately swathed, normally a full
suit her better. Ал older rounded shoulder line; and had an orchid pinned in it.
woman
will like the grace- smooth coiled hair. Hata
Aui wide simeves and high The models who showed the fastening. And for the expect become small, and sit different colourings wore suit-
the ent mother there was never a straight on the head, able outats to emphasise
more convenient style. Eastern effect. Illustrated mandarin-fashion. Women Baroque," a short white satin Achlove a slightly Chinese paint their eyes carefully at coat with dragon on cuffs and look by: swathing your the corners, endeavour to pockets, in gold kid and Felting into a switch and malding a coll; pink beads. This shows how by wearing a little round collar
the look tranquil, and behave perfectly age-old
style of velvet, with embroidery and becomes an English, model. counter- as their Eastern
aalit front; by embroidering or braiding the slit edges of your parts probably never would
skirt; by removing your shoulder your loose pads and fastening
pliqued design of flames on
petal skirt, has an ap buttons. This type of jacket is
do.
hair
coat high with an old brooch; and by paying scrupulous atten- longer ton to your hands and face.
WAS
toffcta
of
The East Is
One of the loveliest unfailing an
coats, below knee-length, of inspiration to the in Butterfly Wing Blue zource designer. But why? Probably with a diamond check of narrow because the majority of Easter velvet strips all over. A red, women have about them an air blue and gold.evening cap went of dignity and refinement which with It. There is an Increasing
feeling for evening caps Is difficult to analyze, and ex- Chinese character, az opposed tremely tempting to copy. De to the moro usual cocktail hats. signers Imow that Western Often these are authentic reps women will succumb immed ductions of mandarin hats, ately to a tight dress of *MIzip Blue" or an evening coat the "colour of delicate Chinese porcelain."!
..
It must not be Imagined that the Chinese influenéo të reserved for-evening wear only. - Proofed
coats, in linen and gabardine For the Arst time, however, natural and stone shades, were the influence at Chinese ancestor cut on elasto-high-necked lines -portraits and traditional
and worn with tiny black velvet costume, which has pioved such paroda ... bata. Ornate gold. a boon to dress designers, has buckles were used to faston, the
necks of these coata..
nbad lie Kindly light on another faces of the fashion-world. The "Chinese Look: bas, made: If In London,
áre y many
This evening drem In cranberry taffeta for the holiday season appears in the mid season collection of Cap- tain Edward Molyneux, Paris fashion leader for 30 years, who announced on November :9
9 that he was closing his sion because of falling sight. The skiri le ankle, longik and
panola, giro the ✨ Im-
tight, but the allatod
Vrank of voluminous OVER":
Akirin. ». The low, marplioo de« collate is draped on a crescent Plapod wire under each armil A malarsion: nooklaod Bur emaralde durrounded by dlak "mands," and """ diamond jona. rings · from Vin: Closť mod
Balmain's New Collection
T
By EMILIE TAVEL
ho cap black kni "chimney sweep,"
White Sulphur Springs,
W. Va. HE unrestrained ele
gance of Paris fash- ions found a new sot- ting in this resort town high in the Alleghenies when Plerre Balmain displayed for guests of the luxurious Greenbrier Hotel his latest. French creations.
Such extravagances na mink goled platform shoes and emerald-dyed Persian lamb atoles high-Highted the showing.
calls his
A lavish use of fur character- ises Balmain's entire collection. Silver mink dots flock a vnli Natural mink is found at cuffs, neck, and hem of a black sheath drasa. Enormous leopard mult like cuffs grace a greatcoat.
A KC
genuine show-stopper was ked up slightly on the side to a jersey dress with full skirt show, of all things, tight fitting knec
ee brecohes with icopard cuffs. A variation of this style carried a pocket at the knee, "ike the West Polaters," Bal- main cald.
The magnificent dusty roic the Greenbrier proved a perfect backdrop for the most exciting of all Bal- main's collection-his after-dark clothes.
Balmain is the first lending ballroom of French couturier 10 fly to America his entire collection, many pieces of which Paris it self has not yet sor.
Sporting a yellow sweater, brillant as the noon sunshine and the
frost-inted mountain follage behind him, Balmain, who is both youthful and witty, described the details of his designs as models paraded on the Brat tee of the fashionable Greenbriar links.
Wrap-Around
Wrap-around greatcoats, fuzzy as a poodle and light as the whipped cream clouds overhead, ind flowing stoles and were belted. tightly at the waist.
A fascinating dress which Balmain insıșis le a "must" for
Praline Opens Show Praline, one of the two beauti- ful models from his Paris shop, opened the show by burgeoning forth from a candy-striped hat box. As the orchestra muted its Un tones, the models paraded and down the runway beneath # glittering crystal chandella which twinded in the camerali brilliant light.
Black braid by the hundred 001 yards appeared on chiffon, coats, on dresses. Exquisite gold und jet embroidery (so elabor- ale some took three wocks to make) decorate skirts, bodices, evening wraps.
Most of Balmain's evening gowns were either strapless or accentuated his newest line, the
comfortable travel had skirt halter neck. All belts were tiny. that looks like a skirt but was and tailored, stoles were ram- really trousers discreetly disguise.
11
Several long-sleeved, nendi- thin woollen dressed had wrap- Bround overskirts ideal for quick change in effect.
a
Judging from this collection, Balmain's own personal rainbow borrows most of nature's hues, But black-the chic absence of all colour-is his unquestionable favourite, When It is not used alone, he twins it with emerald
with
pink, yellow.
green,
OF
with
Grey Follows Black Grey is another pet shade. This he uses either alone, or with scal brown or occasionally cocoa.
A pretty Paisley design devo toped in his exclusive Rue Francoix premier salon pops up frequently and in unexpected pinces the lining of a stoje, a blouse, an evening gown,
either
pent, and skiria were enormously fill or mife-thin. Wool jersey with metal thread Find was found in afternoon evening gowns.
Own Commentator
Balmain was again his own commentator, and a most enter taining one he was. With arms kimbo (a favourite pose), he wore a red plaid bow tie and a simple navy blue suit, distin- guished only by tiny cuffs on the sleeves.
His entire collection will be shown in New York. And not all of them are outside the realm, of reason in price, $85 being about the minimum fgurc.
was
These so-called inexpensive di esses are from his boutique collection, which is a sort of bargain basement in a French salon. This originally contained. only accessories but panded to include ensembles of sufficiently simple design that His hate, with rare exception, travellers passing through Paris
1wo are small and snug. Wool fersey can, with Attings, havq and chiffon make a turban. A dresses completed in five days.
The Last Molyneux· Dress