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THE PEOPLE ACT
that
Speedy Rise
His carcer seems to have borne out that rather trrtling state- Angolon, ment. Born in Los Eugene Meyer is the son of an almost equally remarkable Jewish merchant, also Eugene Meyer,
IN THE WORLD
and
entered his father's banking fra tions were "necessary or contri-, and worked for four years in the butary to the prosecution of the war" and to banking, institutions Now York office as a clerk. By
that helped finance such industries. 1001 ho felt he was ready to open his own investmont banking house: Subsequently he became managing Its success was amazingly prompt.
remained such Moyer was able, within a very throughout the life of the cor- few years, to buy a seat on the
In 1920 he was chairman of an cotton commisalon. New York Stock Exchange (algn of success) and to becorge direc- tor an increasing number of cor, rations.
1017, his Wall Street Baruch, brought
even though offcially he who emigrated to America from! "baddy," Bington to help him
France by himself when bo was
"
The biggest blinker in the word and publishing the Washington Is the president of The World Post, it has been said: "The world Bank tho multi-billion-dolar is directed by individuals, and he:
directing individua? Anancial organisation set up by in 38 members of the United NE- wherever be happens to take.nn
Interest." tions for reconstruction and re-
war-torn habilitation of a universe,
He
70-years-old
Eugeno IR Meyer, an American of Jewish nacestry who cut his teeth of U.S. Tational finance. The
selected Meyer for bis job,
World Bank's the It has become the fashion these 12 executive
was elected by
who re- directors, days to depict the British public present 12 different nations.
By A Special The U.S. Government was able as a long-suffering, lifeless, sheep- like community,
bullied with to decide that an American should forms and harried into queues by be president, because America is
putting
42 per cent of the a merciless army of Government put 500,000,000 dollars capl- ufficials. Like most generalisations, tal--and, in return for ita malor it is far from accurate. During contribution, it is getting virtunt
This of control the war and before the raids be-
The U.S.
Meyer because he has a thorough background in private and public finance, which encourage con- presumably will fidence among the investors who billions of dollars of world bank bonds.
Kan it was the official view that national organ.
London Tube stations were un- suitable as air-raid shelters. Cock- ney common sense decided other wise. Officialdom was
abashed
inter- of
Correspondent
10, and finally engaged_in_com- mercial banking in San Francisco and New York as a representative banking frin of Lazard Brothers. Young Eugene
educated in public schools of
Sun the Francisco, spent a year at the University of California, and then to Yale Valversity. went cast
matriculation he spent two years lila father's relatives in Paris, London, Berlin, Frankfurt.
Upon his return he immediately
Meyer to run the War Industries Hoard.
Meyer dissolved his investment banking firm and determined to devote himself to Government aer- vice. His advice to others at this time was: "If you want to RO ahead in politics, koop out until you have made your pile. That's what I did."
During the war years Meyer held a variety of Jobs, winding up as a special assistant to the Secretary of War.
poration.
his direction the commis- sion was successful in provonting surplus cotton from recent bumper crapa boing dumped on the mar kot and thereby
entire South
ruin to the bringing financial One governmental attempt after another at stimulating production by extending increased credit to private industry or
or agriculture found Eugene Moyer at the helm.
In 1927, at
at the request of Preal- dent Coolidge, he undertook the task of reorganising the Federal Farm Loan Board, the governmen- tol agency which regulated more than 70 banks engaged in making loana to or for the benefit of farmers.
and gave" in. The latest example before long will be asked to buy After the counting houses of dent Wilson named him director signed in 1929 bo was being at
Of Eugene Meyer, who devoted his time in recent years to editing
A “Manager"
Meyer put them on A sound Meyer was 90 effective in basis but gained many enemies "managing projects" that Presi- by his methods. Before he xo- of the War Finance Corporation, tacked in the Bonate by farm stablished to give financial sup- Senators, purticularly Huey Long. port to Industries whose opera- as "an ordinary, tin-pot, bucket-
shop operator in Wall Street."
Never Idle
How Clothes Are Designed
Never idlo for very long, Presi- dent Hoover called Meyer back to servico in 1030 as governor of the Federal Reserve Board, the Gov- ernment agency which, controls the note issue.
of initiative by the public in the face of extremely dilatory! action by the authorities is the "squatters" movement to take over Army huts for conversion into ordinary homes. For the last twelve months this simple remedy for relieving the housing short- age has been handied across every public house and teashop in the land. It is bard to believe that civil servants have frequented nei-you ther, but certainly they failed to take the hint. Now the squatters have forced the issue, and thus prodded from the rear, official dom has woken up. If it is true that there are many camps suit- able for conversion into housing estates, the public will be justified in wanting to know why official dom did not wake up a good deal | always a natural development clothes?" Well, he does' produce so few facilities in the dress established with Government funds sooner. All the same it is fair to
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and the Ministry of Health, once they had recovered from the first shock of surprise, have made some very sensible and highly desirable provisions for the orderly control of this new migration.
TALKS IN EGYPT The discussions on treaty re- vision between the British and Tel. Nos Egyptian representatives in Cairo have now been going on for more than three months. It is a long time, even by contemporary diplo matic standards. The new treaty is not, of course, an easy one to negotiate. There are several very knotty problems to solve. The Egyptians want to see the promised evacuation of our troops more we think is prac- quickly than ticable. They also have aspira- tions in the Sudan which, for the For
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moment, we cannot accept. our part, we need a watertight defence agreement which will en- sure-in so far as anything can ensure it in an atomic age the security of the Middle East. Here again there is a gap between our requirements and what the Egyp- tians have been willing to con- cede. It would almost certainly be unwise to lusist on too many commit- details going into the
ments which will bind each side
that the Sometimes a woman says to because she know
and me: "Oh Mr. Stiebel, what are public wanted a change,
going to fores us into this designed her dresses according- coming season?" It is a quca- ly.
which is simple to answer. My point therefore is that always is an automatic No designer, or group of de- there fignera
to follow-up in fashion. Women can force women
are ns capricious as Siamese wear new fashions that they,
cats and as voracious for novel- the women, don't want!
of Опе frequently hears ty as wolves are for flesh. "fushton dictators"- which is I What think pure nonsense. women shall wear is decided by There is themselves,
women
in clothes.
This being so, you may well nok: "What then is the job of n creas designer, if it isn't to produce now and exciting
new
clothes but to be good
but I think it is fairly obvious what is going to happen, War
His appointment was fought by tho development of the farm Senators, who, speak- fashion. Before the war clothes ing for the bankers whose in- halts
wero becoming younger institutions Meyer had reorganised Britain. Women liked short, to their personal detriment, called flared skirts, nipped-in, corslet him "the Judas Iscariot ted diaphragms, rounded busts operation throughout the United
States. and squared shoulders,
Outburst Of Hair-Fantasy
During the war there were
its
to co-
But soner, less prejudiced minds hailed his appointment.
In 1931, with the depression at worst, Meyer prepared the bill which brought into being the Re- construction Finence Corporation, 500,000,000 dollars organisation
11
In the early 1920's, when the they are not necessarily exeft trade in this country that this to make loans to tottering rail-
The
the British woman's waistline dropped low on the hips and skirts revealed coy and often unbecoming knees, everybody enjoyed the freedom of this somewhat eccentric fashion. Bat fashion had to develop. Skirts could not very well become shorter, so they had to become longer.
not development was
development in violent a fashion never is, for the public will not accept violent changes. I well remember the excitement caused at a ball in 1926. One of the guests appeared in an evening dress with a full skirt, short in front and flaring to the ground at the
Thero were shocked comments, but the final verdict was that the gown had clegance.
Bret indication that was the skirta were to become long. Public Wanted A Change
back,
Ing.
A good designer should make clothes which are just a
By
Victor Stiebel, Famous London Fashion Designer
A
roads. Instrance companies and fashion became static. The only extravagance, the only outlet banka, for individuality
was in hair
The RF.C. saved the financial styles. I am sure the outburstsicins of innumerable financial and of hair-fantasy WOB due to industrial corporations which frustrations over the shortages would have gone under in those of normal requirements.
black_daye.
The same could be said of make-up; far too much make- up was used; used often very cleverly but without discretion. Hair-des and make-up will I think become more and more restrained and more and more
youthful.
Newspaper Owner
When Roosevelt became Presi- 'dent in 1983, Meyer resigned as governor of the Federal Reserve Board. But this did not mean retirement from public fe. Es bought the Washington Post, one of the five Washington dailles; for .825,039 dollars.
Bome
under
wero
little ahead of public opinion.
He is rather like an Army Intelligence Officer. His job is not to assess the strength 67 the enemy, but to collect in-
The picture will change now formation regarding the whole and clothes will slowly become been losing a million dollars a year time the paper had structure of existing fashion so
relaxed. We won't no back to under unimaginative ownership. that he can judge what action after the 1014-18
war' Things
were different should be taken for the future fashions, but there will be the Mever's direction. The clrcula- fnahion campaign. dress 1947 equivalent, Loose.com- tion of the paper increased 173
IA Inscinated by fortable bodices--waists rather per
Ita Ibasos cent., and designer women's clothes, and if he is lower than they are at present wiped out. any good at all, he uses his skirts 2 or 3 inches longer. This back dip
At the time, he purchased the eyer the whole time, watching Squaring a woman's shoulders paper it was rumored that Meyer what women wear; all sorts of helped to reduce the size of her would turn it into a mouthpieco women, everywhere, on buses, hips, and was
a reasonable for the Republican Party. walking in the street, in the step. But padding had become lauding Roosevelt's foreign policy, Instead, its publisher turned to extravagant and in future there paticularly the "quarantina tho ag will be none. Women are al grusser" speech at Chicage ready becoming moit feminine 1937, which conservative isola- and to acquire slender hips will tionist forces referred to as "war no longer be a general desire. mongering."
President Roosevelt returned the A figure with moderately cur- ving hips and shoulders and compliment by appointing Meyer long legs will eventually become to the National Defence Media-
tion Board.
"Butch" to his workers, Meyer porary post-war women.
likes hobnobbing with the Press
think Madame Lanvin of Paris was the first to do it and the idea gained popularity. The backs of skirts cascaded to the ground in the evenings, until someone decided they might as well be long all round, and so long skirts for evening were accepted not because Madame Lanvin had a good idea, but
in the projected treaty. A broad OF
treaty of friendship and alliance might well be the most practical
BISMARCK-
and certainly would be the FAME
swiftest-means of ending the dis-
Benjamin Charles Stanley cussions satisfactorily. One of the Martin, Blond, 15-years-old or- difficulties is that Lord Stansgate phan left t.. Navu Orphanage has not been given plenipotentiary at Greenwich to all before the authority, so that all important maat and scrub decks for 6d a matters have to be referred back day. to Mr. Bevin and the Cabinet. Martin became the first ranker- Now aged 66, Rear-Admiral This may be necessary in view of cfficer of the 20th century to be the importance of the Egyptian talks, but if so there should be a special effort in London to bring
knighted.
The man from whom he re- ceived the KBE was an old ship
| these protracted ́discussions to a mate on the battleship malaya-
firm outcome in the very near Acting-Lieutenant Prince Al- future.
bert, now King George 6th.
As he rose through the ranks, Martin became an expert boxer, a fino Rugby player. He studied hard, today was recognised as one of the bent tactical bralna in the Navy.
THINGS TO COME
cinemas. I always know so well what women are wearing and why, that I usually have a fair- ty shrewd idea of what they are going to want to wear.
Getting It On Paper Accepting as a fact that the derigner knows approximately what is to be the future trend, the next step is the business of getting something down paper. I carry a small notebook in which I sketch very roughly the basis of an idea. When I start on the collection, I select the beat of these rough notes and re-draw them.
whole
On
I then explain the thing to the fitter, talk a great deal and get rather cited. If the idea is good she gets ex- cited too and off she goes to cheap thin muslin. This is fit- make the dress first of all in td 2 or 9 times on a model girl and the faulta corrected before the cutting of the actual material in which the model is to be made. The dress itself is then fitted 3 or 4 times until eventually it is turned out in ali
its glory as a new model.
When one reads in a nows- paper that certain international or historical influences are noted in certain collections it is usually nonsense. Good de. signing does not borrow from history or from foreign coun-
Martin was the Immaculate, ico-cool commander of the £3-
cruiser Dorsetshire tries.
Chicago, Sept. 2. Within four years rockets will rango up to 6,000 miles and be capable of delivering with con- siderable accuracy "a telling ton million nago of explosives," says Major which engaged the Bismarck an The best clothes in contem-
of the General Curtis M, head U.9. Army Air Force development May 27, 1941,
Ital.
It is also possible, he said, that by 1950 there will be jet propallet aircraft which can carry atomleed the Battle of the Plate and bombs:Associated Press.
TRUMAN BACK
Washington, Sept. 2. The Presidential yacht Wi- liamsburg which is returning President Harry Truman to the United States from his West indies cruise, reached a polut 20 miles off the Virginia coast early Bunday. The President is expected to reach the Whito, House todas as „A DUM AMOS alated Press, s
The Dorsetshire's crew had begun to think they would never fight at sea. They had just miss the sinking of the Graf Spea
Then carto the signal that the Bismarck was steaming an a southerly coures;279
Captain. Martin's voice went over the loud-speakers to his men: This is our hng chance
porary fo are the most sim- ple Women in this scientific uge have to be very practical and they reject frills, and over- ornamentation. Good clothes are thone that you hardly notice clothes that are as sim- ple-looking as a fine alternft or a stream-lined - bát."Only when you look at them closely do such clothes reveal the compli- cation of cut, the unpritenHour A little inter, he spoke again dotali, the alight touch of RIGH have torpedved the Bismarck ty; of unexpected; novelty), that on the starboard side. Now Tam have gode to make up the com going round to the port sids to plated articles de 2 plan her the soorke i sidste After Evagyulaire" In the Arms: The 16 Who's Who has not i my ideas about the future of, caught up with the ex-rankar fashion ary atlily germinating,
the standard shape for contem-
in
It is a good shape, a normal | *** shape, a shape to conform to and can be seen any day loung Ing around the National Pross the new world that is going to Club in Washington instead of at be built. Let us hope there will one of the eight swank New York be designers with enough taste: and Washington clubs of which ho and imagination to dress it. in a member,
CARNIVAL
By Dick Turner
everything about you, Alice...your father's, alilet, your molber & perfume, your brother's pants!"
*