XXXXXENEXXERXEXEN EN 199 XX
THE CHINA MAIL.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 1930.
A The WOMAN'S Page t
Military Style Coat
POOR PEOPLE
Some Interesting Reminiscences
An old lady writes from a helle country town that when people complain of lack of progress in our uge they should have seen condi tions forty or even thirty years ago, which were there taken more or less for granted. It was an ac- cepted thing that really poor children should be barefoot. They went to school with bare feet in the worst kinds of weather, and sometimes shoes-old ones, of course, and usually the wrong size were given them so that they could come to church or Sunday school. It was considered rather kind of people to provide shoes for people whose destiny it was to have None. At Christmas luxuries of this kind were provided, together with oranges and apples. As re gards food, charitable people made dishes which they distribut- ed. These were the soups and jellies of village life. Bones wero given away, though the reprehen-
sible poor very often did not make
Drury Lane Pantomime
For the first time for many years, the famous Drury Lane Theatre, the home of spectacular Pantomime productions, staged "The Sleeping Beauty" for last year's Christmas pantomime. A talkio film of a rehearsal of the pantomime was made for Pathe Sound Pictorial. The "Pantami me King." Mr. Julian Wylie, the famous producer, is seen seated at table watching the pretty chorus at rehearsal.-(Sport and General).
LONG OR SHORT?
The battle of skirts has by no means reached a decisive conclu-
sion,
While the leading dressmakere flat ordering trailing gowns ap-
pears to have been obeyed as far
of them the good soup they might fashionable evening entertain
have had. One old woman used to come up every week for tea-leaves, which
were saved for her and which made for her the only tea she had.
There were such different clothes in the different statuses of life that clothes given away were generally rather disfiguring. They were to big or too long, and some people had little discretion and gave away things which were wholly unsuit- able for the purpose for which they were used. For the children poor parents had little time to cut them Town and they were worn as they were. Again, It was the thing for the "poor child" to be rather dis- The Jaunty tape, worn over · onc
gured by clothea. One of the shoulder of the brown and tan carneul
greatest
changes 19 not gives
only military air to the
the costume. This style, with rolling collar in
fact that every one shod, but that they are shod in
becoming 1
way. Also the children' who pour out of the elementary schools now look as smart and trim as the children of any school, with whom it is also
con,
and luring sleeves, is very youthful is and popular for the day-time hours.
SOCIAL PECCADILLOES
•
purpose.
We all commit them, Even the tendency to wear a uniform people who pride themselves on exactly suited to its their good manners are often guilty-II. in Manchester Guardian. of the "little sins,"
The woman who does not im- mediately write a letter of sym- pathy on henring of a friend's death; a letter of thanks to people who have entertained her; a letter of apology for a broken engage- ment this woman in rude, but she errs through thoughtlessness rather than through lack of breed- ing.
NEW ENSEMBLES
A
Coats and dresses that combine ensembles include fine lainage, crepe de Chine, or Shantung gowns, worn beneath lainage or tweed coats. The coats are cut on simple but elegant lines, with distinctive details such as side fastenings, quaintly shaped pockets, scarf cul- fars, and unusual ceintures. typleal model-and one that illustrates the prevalent lace- jersey vogue-comprises a navy blue coat fastening down one side of the same with a single row coloured buttons, worn over a dress of fine lainage that shades from pale yellow to deep orange.
Thie
There ure, however, other breaches of good manners which are inexcusable. Mrs. X. will talk to you about "Mr. X." She never calls him "my husband," although she speaks of "my brother" or "my son," when discussing some other masculine relative. The Misses O. will insist that you take something from every plate on the table: per haps they will, even fores you to
is not the ordinary shading process, take a second helping, though you
but is achieved by shadings of protest that you have already had different tones superimposed one Bufficient.
above the other in charmingly Lydia will not say "good-bye" artistic diagonal lines from hem to and gol
neck. It is at the neck that the Talking "ahap" is unpardonable lainage melta, so to speak, into a at a social gathering. Yet how subtle lace-jersey yoke, terminating many women who are interested In the same diagonal points that chiefly in clothes will discuss break the dullish surface charac- nothing but dress? Those with a teristic of 80, many "embre" passion for some hobby or other materials. The lace-jersey reap- will insist on talking about it to pears in a scarf that is passed the bitter end. The sports-mad through a wide slotting cut across girl finds no other topic of con- the front neckline of the coat. versation... all are examples of the way in which sheer bad form can spoil any party,
Fanny Burney, in her novel "Evelina," describes very graphi-. cally the pain ill-breeding gives to a sensitive mind. A true woman le never vulgar, She puts you at your ease, she is interested in your
Pamela
affairs and not eternally talking about her own home and children, She does not lavishly praise her friends to their faces, she does not gush-and she knows when enough has been said,
13, Queen's Rd, C.
'next to St. Francis Hotel.
Have a Large Selection of Ladies' Dresses, Ensembles, Hats, Gloves, Sunshades and Afternoon Gowns
FOR THE
Dressmaking and
This will
tment
Ble
RACES
Millinery
to as a special
charge
ments are concerned, It has been completely disregarded for day wear, and women writers continue to urge their readera not to be forced by fashion into wearing garments which they condemn as ugly and unhealthy.
German women are reported to
have definitely rejected the return to long skirts.
New Style Suits
Some of the newer auita show two- tones of material, achieved by insects This style is noticed in the brown and tan broadcloth suit above pictured.
The blouse and jacket being of jan while the skirt and jacket trimmings carry out the brown tone.
SOME BEAUTY TIPS
For closing onlarged pores with- out leaving unsightly marks, mass- age with stale bread is particularly helpful, Begin by bathing the face for about ten minutes in hot rain- water Isther.. Rinse in two or three changea of water, each time lowering the temperature until the final bowlful is just tepid, when a few drops of equ-de-Cologna should be added. Instead of drying on a towel, remove the moisture by means of thin pieces of bread laid In the palm of the hand. As the tissues of the face are moyed light- ly, the skin is invigorated, and the gentle massage effectually closes the pores, leaving neither scar or blemish. Skin blemishes often pre- sent a last-minute problem. Any elight discoloration can be conceal- ed by rubbing with glycerine and lightly powdering. A largish ""blotch" is beat dealt with by touching it with peroxide of hydro- gen and concealing it beneath & beauty-patch of black silk court “but in a small circle, or
too, for
EVENING GOWN MODE
There is a new movement to be specially noted in evening gowns; an effective sort of "waft," as it were, achieved by long slender panels cleverly attached to backs fall from the shoulders in a series of dresses in various ways. They
of tabbed ends all the way down a back, or they are cut in one with a bodice at the middle of the back, where they are lightly knotted be- fore they stream outwards, The "movement" is really charming, and seems to glide with the wearer, Obviously, however, It is limited to the more ephemeral materials such As tulle, chiffon and lace.
POPULAR SPORTS WEAR
Two-plece ensembles are still the popular theme for sports wear, the dress as. ▲ rule belog simply trimmed with a narrow leather belt round
Beige a yoked hip line. crepe de laine is frequently used for both jumper and two-piece styles.
Line, of course, is the principal characteristic of all such clothes, and, though it is simply detailed in sports models, it fa none the less an unmistakably rhythmic quality, typically expressed, for instance, in fine tucks raying outwarde from the length of the skirt to the hem on either side of an Inverted box pleat.
When there is a combination of colour mixtures, sweaters, scarves, and bags are so devised as to con- tinue the same design and colour- ing.
INTRIGUING HATS
There are some Intriguing braid- ed hats for wear with tailored sults. These novel millinery models may be in very fine straw or fabric, but they are braided all over in such a way that the effect is of finest embroidery.
SHOE LORE
The shoe manufacturers have been busy with new ideas. Beige shoes are finished with coral kid. Straps and edgings of corded silk adorn other kid models. Heels aro abviously a debatable point, as heights vary considerably.
Equestrienne Costume
LACE-JERSEY FASHION
Lace-jersey likewise fashions many of the smart blouses and bodices turned out by famous Parts designers. Thus, for a blouse worn with a modlah little tweed suit,
of, brown and a deep shade of lace-jersey is chosen in a mixture
beige. All the obvious lines of the tweed suit are trimmed tightly with the selvedge of the material, a strip of which is stitched in horizontal formation at the front of the skirt about eight inches below the waist. It also appears in a deep V down the front of the blouse, and finishes off
an easy-fitting waistline.
TRAVEL CLOTHES
Some Both Smart And Practical
Gone are the days when we wore out our garments to "travel. in.” The worst of the wardrobe general- ly appeared on quays and railway platforms in winter one saw an array of mangy-looking far wraps and tweeds, with boots and gloves of the oldest!
How luxurious travel requlaites have become! The delicious camel- hair or fur ruga, foot muffs of silk and fur, pillows, gay peignoirs, and the pallman pyjamas-all such things that can be tucked away in- to the pockets of a light and prac- tical silk and leather cushion.
One can appreciate the modern method of eliminating meaningless- And unnecessary paraphernalia, though fashion leaves us all sorts of charming travel accessories, that certainly add te comfort and help the appearance by air, rond, Sca,, or railway,'
Joy of Wool
The mid-seaaun collections give For a long journey what is better us many pleasing wool specialities. than a softly-woven fabric? Some shaded effects are interesting- several ensembles are composed of checked or striped jerseys, woven and alternating with plain fabrics.
Blue and grey (dark navy and better colours for travel than even iron grey) and beige and brown are
the chic black. Navy is undoubted- ly creeping into its definite place for next year's fashion. A navy flannel frock with blouse-like
F
Perfect Evening Gown bodice pouches over a grey suede belt, and ties at the neck with a large spotted grey and blue tie. To go over this is a navy cardigan. with a border of pin tucks as a trimming, worked with inserted stitches of grey wool. Then there Is the top-coat of navy velours, tined grey fleece, and collared with grey caracul. It will be wisdom to take navy serge or flannel for day wear abroad.
Į
This picturesque frock is smiled upon by present fashion.
It shows coarse net in dahlia for a perfect even- ing gown, with puffed sleeves and crystal trimming. The skirt falls to the ground in an even hom line.'
effecta. Green and white woven hopsack is a favourite, though flan- nel is firmer for sports wear; the new lighter tweeds are also very auccessful,
Hats are full of surprises, but for travel and everyday life women will naturally cling to the smaller shapes. The helmet-hat and skull caps, in felt, velvet and felt, and straw mixtures,; are all easy to wear,
Brims always come out with the sun, so the happy compromise, is the straw shape with felt brim.
A grey-and-black auit in tweed also looks well with one of the new Jong semi-fitted seamed capes with a scarf collar of its own,
For Parin ia again making vallant efforts to force the cape vogue on us, and certainly of Inte given UB some charming examples. For travelling especial- ly there are some now soft tweed conts, lined fur, that have attached capo-backs, or semi-fitted 'cape aleeves. They ensure a certain amount of extra warmth, which is all to the good.
has
Satin Dress
Luminous black satin is used for the evening gown which has found favour in New York. The dress reveals a
outlining the decolletage neckline and princess foundation with circular collar
matching circular ruffles forming the three-tiered skirt.
DRESSES AND WRAPS
Whether the occasion be dinner, the opera, or the theatre, the rule for the evening ensemble seems to be a simple dress and an elaborate wrap. Charming frocks of black handsome brocaded and lame capes varnished lace are worn beneath
silver and black, trimmed with high of green and gold, Chinese red, and
short collars of black, grey, belge, or white fox fur..
Dresses of plala georgette and chiffon are also worn under sump- tuous wraps. Net gowns, however, better express. the more recent mode.
youth look wonderfully well in net Women past their first
gowns of lavender, soft purple, or Bordeaux red, under valvet wrapa in darker hues, trimmed with black or grey fox.
Almost without exception, wraps are draped about the figure. Some have shoulder yokes. Others have scarves, hoods and loosely devised ruches.
Wraps, in a word, are more "decorative" in the evening than are the dresses accompanying
The big top-coat is so very im- portant and expensive nowadays that it is generally wise to select some neutral. shade that will look well over several tracks and suits. Then it should be spacious enough to go over any cosy ensemble, and on fairly alim women the extra them. cape is amart. A walking coat, in fine peach colour, has a three-tiered (highwayman's) cape of the cloth with self-edge border, and is cut with double-breasted, fastening four large pearl buttons.
The seamed, slightly waisted effect gives a hint of change, and
IN THE DARK
Have you seen the new fashion. for ladies finger-nails that has come from the imagination of colour? No more henna, no more dye; but, instead, luminous mother- is a variation from the straight of-pearl coatings that make the slim line. Flannel is worn at Palm naila glow in the dark and shine in Beach and on the Riviera. Cham-the daylight. They look queer in pagno, peach, and pale-green flan- the gloom of the theatre. nel make extremely effective colours for the sun, with sober-grey for morning wear and when skies are dull.
Straw and Felt
A new fabric is a loosely woven striped hopsack, far softer and
more like a tweed than these usual canvas sort of materials. The
methods in weaving provide novel touches to familiar__fabrica, the loosely woven "makes" being un- doubtedly softor.
:
Paquin has a new coat in dark and light grey; others in mottled belge and red, with clever shaded
(Continued at foot of preceding Column).
ALEXANDER'S INSTITUT DE'
BEAUTE
For the best Permanent Finger & Marcel Waves. Hair Cutting and Manicure for Ladies & Gentlemen, Fedder Bldg. 1st. floor. Room 5 Tel. C. 5169, Opposite entrance H.K. Hotel
de MODES M-me D'Obry.
MAISON
PARIS.
HONG KONG
SHANGHAL
EVENING GOWNS
Has now on display a beautiful selection of
AFTERNOON & SPORT DRESSES COSTUMES COATS - FURS
NOVELTIES
Orders taken for Ladies Dresses, Coats, Costumes, and Hats
Tal Ping Bids
18 Queen,