WOMAN'S THOUGHTS
Inanimate Enemies Still at Work
Mary Market Moore writes in
the London Daily Telegraph:
There are times when one is tempted to believe nggaiast one's Inanimale better judgment. that
-objects have mids and disposi
Lints, Tumally unpleaszent ad
that ronbinations of circumstances have something almost human in ↑ bir maliciousness.
Perhaps it we were learned in the mysteries of the stars and of the meaning of signs and wonders all would be clear to us. As it is, we can only bear as patiently as may be with what his been called
he mased poss
inanimate objects"; we must bow wir heals, 50 to speak, antil the storm. past.
*
קא
On the days when these silent, intangible enemies are at work all goes awry. As children we were taid that we had got out of bed on the wrong side on the days we were cross and peevish, when we broke what we were told to hold, or lost what we were quiti zure had never been out of our sight for a moment. Now, as prown-up people, we find that the hidden enemies are still at work, How else derount for the times when the affairs of the day,
.
instead of running on oiled wheels. catch and creak, delay us, and dis appoint us from the hour we get up late for breakfast and find the fakmonger has not sent the kippers until we go to bed at night to dis. | cover that the hot-water bottle has chosen this unsuitable moment to Jeak?
The
refuses
tt
Funtain-pen write when one has only a hurried five minutes for an urgent note: the scissors disappear, only to be found later on in the same place wearing an air of conserdus virtue: ladder starts, as it by mugie, in the favourite silk stockings you have put on for a luncheon party; and a rip in your glove arrives to alisgrace you before the severe family solicitor.
you are
If there be nothing in this idea of malice la things and iri circum- stances, why. when economically combining the morti fication of splashed stockings and a cut in the head, does a quite un
1
THE CHINA MAIL.
SATURDAY, JANUARY 25, 1930.
The WOMAN'S Page
I k
EXEXNE EXEKENKENXXXXXXXXXXXXXX@<5/6/9EXXONDRIO!
Dressmaking
Evelyn Matteson of Grundy County, Hinois, was awarded the grand prize for dressmaking with a green organctio gown which she displayed for the camera at the International Live Stuck Exhibition at C'hivugas.
WAIST LINES
A new note is developed in waist lines by a corselet skirt fitted round the high waist of a Krey tweed morning seit. The corselet in this instance is made at an all-round height, with open euls slotted at intervals on the normal waist Hine to show the colour of the blouse in butcher blue linen. Schiaparelli mulifies this line for a less slim figure by only affecting the corselet at the front of a skirt by gradually sloping a point downwards towards the back where the skirt rests at the normal.
This particular corselet creates a slimming line in black and white | tweed, as it buttons on to a white
blouse at the point in front.
NEW TORSADE SCARF
The new torsade scarf made with
expreted guest, whose eyes are like two strīps of different coloured
gimlėta, artive before you have time
to hide traces of these afflictions?
Why, when you are rumpled after
i
crepe de Chine gut on the bins and twisted round in torsade fashion substitutes the buttoning principle.
ating" and the fire is low, he It rolls round the neck, to tie
catise you are suon leaving rucn to dress for a party, dues the maid announce visitors from a distractive splash of colour in green taney who have hitherto seen you looking neat and alert? ·
the through buttonholes mude In the point of the corselet, and is an at-
Why But in the breasts of a host of persons this query is erhoing, and for none of us is there any answer.
PARIS MODE
That' the Paris mode has definite- ly entered into a new phase is made more evident by the sweeping clearance of last season's models at all the Important sales at Home. We are all infected by the new mole in spite of the invective huri- ed at it by muny critics, who were -in some instances--more extreme than the fashions, as they appear- ed to indivate only one length for all occasions instead of three for reparate occasions.
and Chambertia red on the long- sleeved hand-knitted woollen pull- over, and against the fine white "foulette" lainage suit,
must be
These corselet waists largely responsible for the dearth of belts. A half-and-half system is applied in black patent feather at one side only of a second model, which is an effective ensemble in black and pink.
GOING-AWAY ENSEMBLE
More interest is being taken in the going-away gowns of fashion- able brides since the development of the ensemble idea in dress. .
SPORTS CLOTHES
Sports clothes have naturally gscaped radical changes in outline, as it is a mode that must, first of Lall, reminin practical for the fleet- tooted tennis player. the yachts- woman, and golfer.
On this
the Heore
sports specialists have the field to them- selves, with the below-knee length level, and skirts are no longer or shorter than this length which all well-dressed women fostered dur ing the, Summer,
But sports stylea become more individual through details and the independent touch that forges new nute.
A
On all points Schia- pareti goes sailing gaily aheal in her own inimitable way, resisting
al outside influences, to follow her own ideas and iḍeals.
Her skirts have never been too short, anyhow, and the only added length that seems to appear is when she supplies her collection with a fow alternoon models. One of these is made to replace her effee- tive pinafore dreas made in two shades of linen or crepe de Chine for the summer season.
It is one of those utility frocks stepped into with the greatest case, so to speak, as it is wrapped round the body and fastened with, ties. This time the order of things is reversed, and It crosses over in front instead of at the back, to tie on the waist line at one side of a cross-over horlice above a full and alt-round hand-pleated skirt.
Dots and Dashes
EVENING WRAPS
The evening wrap of attractive character is always a good pur- chase for the woman who attends the wide social round; the present. reduction in furs may possibly allow of the winter wrap being plentifully trimmed with fine skins,
Most women realise that in the winter their evening wrap is more wilen on than oft. At any rate, if not, it will be generally reposing on the back of a chair or theatre stall, so it is wisdom to spend all we
afford on obtaining a decora live garment.
Here we must consider the im- portant decision of length, and the three-quarter coat for the evening appeals strongly to many women. Another type of model shows the trained eant, but this is a choice more suitable for the rich woman who can afford to possess an even- ing coat to match each frock! One point in favour of the three-quarter roat is that on really cold evenings it can either be taid aside in favour of the big fur wrap or be worn under it.
This three-quarter length for early Spring will be widely accept- ed. Added to which, there is what may be termed a long three-quarter length, covering the knee, as well as the shorter choice. There al- ways is the really long wrap as well, which, by drugging draperies and cunning devices, enn be worn Dots and dashes ond modernistic
in a variety of ways to suit In- patterns are decorating the newest dividual taste and requirements. sports costumes, Above is shown a In any case a cape or coat of sterl royal blue jersey dresa with white ing worth is a good investment at polka dots.
the mid-season.
Parisian Dressmaker
Mademoisello Lo Start has the distination.of
being judged the best apprentice dressmaker in the French capital. She wan awarded the blue ribbon after a competition with hundreds of others engaged in a similar cccupation.
DEFINITE WINTER MODE
The mid-season has established that the mode for winter is very definite, and also portends the
A bride of December 17, Miss trend for early spring, and it is Peggy Leigh, changed into a par- ticularly pleasing afternoon gown good to be able to record that the after her wedding with Mr. Charles models generally approved of this The evening mode is a thing Graves at St. Margaret's, West season show excellent taste and apart, and we hardly know what minster.
certain lasting qualities. definite influence criticiem will The dress, a Martial Armand
satin, the dull surface being used
have brought to bear upon it until creation, was of Burgundy "crepe Possibly the greatest interest is
Sensible Footwear
EX
Helen and Mildred Myers, of Eddyville, Nebraska, whose sensible footwear won in a contest conducted by the National 4-H Clubs at The International Live Stock Exposition in Chicago.
HOLLY AT A WEDDING
In Silver Grey
EVENING ENSEMBLE
Novelty and Design in
Shoes
"Sandalar" stands for a little shoe shap in Paris presided over. by
American girl, Mary Hendelari. She has crammed such | resourcefulness for novelty of de
sign and manipulation of
harmonious colour combinations in- to the brief period of her shoe- designing career, that this shop is now famous throughout Europe. •
Among the new models that wore ushored in at the mid-season collec- tion are some exceedingly smmar! shoes for town or country wear. and afternoon and evening shoes with beautiful lines and unusual touches of colour. Dahlia and u delightful tone of Burgundy are two of the most important colours, and both are combined with ante- lape and antique Indian brocade for evening
Antique Chinese brocade is another combination in blue and gold that is appealing as an evening ensemble with matching bag.
wear.
There is a general movement to wards colour, and all artists have their own tones and tinta. Crepe de Chine is an important medium with Sandalari, but the tendency is to use it combined with velvet in the same colour to match evening ilreases.
Practically all evening shoes are strapped to follow Grecian sandal lines. Charming effects are achiev This delightful coat is of silver greyed by the applique of leather on caracul. trimmed with grey fox collur silks and kids in many combina. and cuts, while the little helmet hat is of grey felt to tone.-Isobel, London,
A BRIDE'S EMERALD RING
Unless a bride has decided views on the subject of engagement rings, it must be quite a pleasant way of spending the week to visit various jewellers to choose "just the right ring."
tions of colour. Among the mules, which are all intriguing and in- dividual for the boudoir and indoor wear, are most delicious little pull- man slippers made to match a pull- nin robe all worked out in an ex- tremely attractive ensemble.
BOUDOIR FASHIONS
In boudoir fashions the exotic resuscitated smoking suits or elegant tea gowns are among gar- ments that, if picked up cheaply. can do service for years.
Colour and fabric are important, and should be carefully considered.
This problem has now been solved by Miss Deirdre Hart-Davis, whose cagagoment to Mr. Ronald Balfour is not very old. She says she had much difficulty in deciding For the country home especially between a lovely square-cut clear these garments are really helpful. emerald and a cabochon gem, The underdress of a tea gown moulded oval and high in its set which can be worn by itself, with ting. Her cholee of an emerald has
a gorgeous coat of velvet or tissue nothing to do with her birth month,that can also be separated-will as her stone is the ruby.
prove a useful as well as decorative When she was a bridesmaid to possession.
or.
Mrs. Grenfell last month she wore. Then the pyjamas or lounge a large sapphire ringed round with suits, with "lacka" in satin diamonds, but this was only as a velvet, joined to 2 loose substitute until she had chosen her blouse, and a engagement ring.
CHAT ON COLOURS
The red of winter promises to continue, in darker effects, far in- to this year. The usual routine is that the brown and red of Autumn and Winter should give way to green and the mauve-purple range for Spring.
Fashion, however, is often sud- den about a new colour craze. far the mode shows
a distinct liking for the sombre side of things,
So
cosy short, or three- quarter coat of
some ultra-
gorgeous coloured variety, are among other bargains for the country house partles.
OBSERVE THE HEM LINE
ordinary character It is wisdom to In picking up bargains of a more
observe carefully the hem-line in coats and skirts, as to whether it
is possible to alter it. Those godet uneven lines are impossible to change, unless they are separate bits appliqued
Still, the probable tendency of the future
on,
Captain Brian Kimmins and Miss Marjory Johnston, who were mur- Grey la considered smarter than will be to shorten, which is riad on December 188 at Brompton boige. Blues in innumerable shad- by no means so difficult as the Parish Church, had fine weather Ings have, in some measure, sup-
lengthening process! for the event.
planted green. Remarkable even- Three pages, who held the handsing ensembles have been heard of of the small bridesmaids, in cream in papal-purple. Lavender je net frocks and carrying forget-me- responsible for youthful frocks in nots, wore the green kilts of the organdi. White is certainly Johnston, tartan, and loose white leader in the Riviera modes. Pale muslin shirts with lace frills. apricot and a faint blush-pink are also sponsored by exclusive de- signers.
Д
SHORT HIP-LENGTH COATS
All coats seem more becoming when properly proportioned; and the short hip-length for the young and slim is among early Rivlera moden, also that exnet half-length and the longer three-quarter model. in the more formal (dressler) day time mode theae coats can fare or godet, whereupon an inch or 80 added or eliminated is accepted at discretion Somelems are uneven; the new openings this month and
concentrated on the many different others dip in a definite direction. Capt. and Mrs. Kimmins are well next month. In the meantime, the for the dress and detachable cape-lengths which so largely determine For the eveling the greatest remembered in connection with the Riviera amazon looms ahead, and collar.
man phases in dress as it applica latitude is parcelasible, but the Heritage Craft Schools at Chailey, Parle has been busy early suiting When the cape is removed it re- to coats, skirts, jumpers, and every dancing girl, if buying anything and the soloist at the wedding was the smart woman with advance early veals a silver guipure lace yoke changing fashion. The result of new, should secure bae of those Mr. Sydney Northcote, organist spring fashion. Fashion retailera This under a beautiful squirrel endless discussions gives more full-all-round-just-clear-the-ground- and master of the choir at the will be all agog from now on until coat, accompanied by the grey variation than ever. Certain prac-frocks in silk or satin. This mode! Heritage.
The clrcular movement is still then, following the trend for morn-velvet hat, rather like a Dutch tical laws have been accepted for being of a practical character.. The Bishop of Londen, with his with ua, capecially for tweeds and ing, sports, and afternoon clothes.girl's cap, completed the ensemble. the tailored and sports modes, such offers lasting possibilities. Yet the picturesque copo, stood beside the In the firmer face cloths and hop-
as skirts being three to four inches endless variety of flounces and Dean of York to officiate, and the sacks. The short rounded coat fol-- below the knee-the inch either up frlils are picturesque enough to red poinsettias and berried holly lows. The circular seamed sķirt is or down should always be an in- have a place of their own, and will made seasonable decorations. Missamart, or in longer form has curved dividual affair.
remain long enough to assure of Johnston's dress of satin had afourices, but the general tendency all sorts of elegant and fanciful | double train, and the long vell wasveers back to a variety of pleated frocks for the season. In the oven-edged with pearls.
skirta.
PAMELA'S SALE.
PAMELA wishes to inform her clientele that after stocktaking a sale will begin on Monday, 20th of January when the stock will be reduced from 15% and above.
REDUCTIONS 15% TO 50%. NOTICE MME. FLINT will be very pleased to attend the sale personally and at the same time show the now collection of models brought from Paris,
DRESSMAKING & MILLINERY.
This will be attended to as a special department at reasonable charge with smartest cut and style guaranteed
NOTE ON THE NEW CLOTHS
Tiny patterns in, almost Invisible checks and stripes-Blacked spots or "splashes" are all among the new cloths. Tweeds of spring weight are of loose, make, almost a basket weave, and the shaded jerseys ard- Interesting. Hopsack varieties and oatmeal clothes of bygone days are resuscitated in much improved aspects..
ing long skirts are predicted for a good while ahead, though hero again much depends on type..
ORDINARY TAILORED SKIRTS
All ordinary "tallored" and sports skirts will neither be longer nor shorter-they have been just established in pretty practical pro- portions; and there is no reason for sudden change. The early Riviera modes show this. The in- creased desire for the box or finely
Tweeds have for some time been so, becoming and soft in textura that in buying lengths we cannot go far wrong Covert-continge, pleated skirts assure of that gabcords, and serges In beige and straight slimness that is so becom navy are equally safe: Moire and ting, and generally wearable, and, poplin will run the taffeta of the where it is easy, the Individual can future very close. Nets and mar put on or take off an inch or” SO- gulsotted will be used fall without upsetting the laws of colours,
fashion and good style..
CIRCULAR MOVEMENT
ALEXANDER'S INSTITUT DE BEAUTE
For the best Permanent Finger & Marcel Waves. Hair Cutting and Manicure for Ladles & Gentlemen. Pedder Bldg. 1st floor. Room 5 Tel. C. 5169.. Opposite entrance HK, Hotel.
MAISON
de MODES
M-me D'Obry..
PARIS.
HONG KONG
SHANGHAL
Has now on display a beautiful selection of EVENING GOWNS ---- AFTERNOON & SPORT DRESSES COSTUMES - COATS-FURS
NOVELTIES
Orders taken for Ladies' Dresses, Coats, Costumes, and Hats.
18, Queen's Rd. C.
Tal Fing Bldg.