8
-THE
CHINA MAIL,
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 19, 1929.
The WOMAN'S Page
PAMENT XXC=XX VIDA DO MARIN SCE
For the Present Season
Raquel Torres, the lovely and spirited Spanish screen favourite, uppeurs m the latest costume for this time of the year. Smart is her crepe frock while the new sunshade adds a dash of colour that en- bancas the ensemble.
MY LADY'S DRESS
A NEW FASHION -COUNCIL
THE TEXTILE TRADES
Dame Fashion is to have a busi- ness manager, or, rather, a number of business managers, in the near future.
They will call themselves the British Colour Council. The main object of this body will be to deter m.ne the colours for the fashion and
alled 'trades.
The Council will work on the lines of the United States Colour Card Association, which provides its members with two cards. One of these, "A" is a standard or basic colour card of colours which are likely to obtain for four or five years. The other, "B," is a seasonal card, giving the very latest shades discovered by the scientists in dyers' laboratories and adopted by Dame Fashion's advisers.
It is felt that the time has come for the inauguration of a British organisation. A meeting with this object in to be held in London on October 9, over which Lord Ebury, D.S.0, chairman of the Army and Navy Co-operative Society Ltd., and president of the London Em- ployers Association, is to preside. In outlining the proposed scheme. the details of which are yet to be settled, the organisers say:
STAINED GLASS
IN THE MODERN WAY
Time was when the mention of stained glaas in connection with a private dwelling conjured up visions of a suburban villadom and # lower middle-class smugneuя. Now all that is changed, and modern stained glass for domestic decorations is bringing Itself into line with other modernistic notions, In common with many anothor re- vival of fashion, stained glass re- turns with a difference to us.
No longer does it fill up panels in a front door with geometric de- signs of a strange, meaninglessness, or appropriate panes in, a window with light-obscuring areas that yield no rich food of colour in re- turn for their absorption of sun- shine.
Instend, it contents itsoif very wisely with a mere rondel or oblong, satisfied in the generous space of door or window to provide a point of interest, of tone, et design.
These single compositions in glass (most effective when repeat- ed in a series of windows) prove curiously effective, in spite, or per- haps because, of their modest pro- portion to the rest of the glass area to which they are related. The eye rests gratefully on them, цпсоп- sciously relieved to find a small space in vivid contrast to the re- mainder of some large expanse.
Landscape Studies
The themes of the stained-glass pictures vary greatly; from those of angular, cubistic, and futuristic given season is the surest way to make buying and selling easy for arrangements of line and colour to the dyer, manufacturer, and dis-
alluring little landscapes with tree- bordered paths winding up moun- tributor.
"Modern Interest in colour hastain aides, and flanked by old developed the colour sense of the masass to a remarkable degree, so that the consumer has become a keen and fastidious critic of colours. The presence of this dominant factor combined with
highly developed and widespread consumer taste has made fashion colour determination one of the keys to successful commercial en- terprise..
castles and fortresses, such as one
80
grounds of Italian and Flemish frequently Ands in the back-
Primitives.
In the latter examples the colours are usually kept low in tone, the details are minutely worked out, and a general air of naive simpli- city is maintained,
to
the
ALEXANDER'S INSTITUT DE
Paris Uses Wigs
One of the most startling innova- tions which comes from Paris is the first introduced by the fashionable wig, hat and gold lace dress which was
women at Deauville a few weeks ago. All match to form the complete en Bemble.
picting in her small panels of glass A number of women artists
some view of interest in the house аге directing their energies itself, either from within or with Research in Paris
production of stain- out. "The placing of fashion coloured glass, and some are achieving determination for the British Em-work of considerable distinction. bies, find themselves decoratively Lares and Fenates, pets and hob- pire in British hands," the hon.
One woman makes a feature of de-rendered in place of the crests and ecc. of the provisional committee
quarterings of the mediaeval of the British Colour Council, Mr.
family, and these are extraordinari H. Kay, said, will provide all British manufacturers and distributors simultaneously with early and authoritative information of colour tendencies. It will conduct colour research in Paris and other fashion centres so as to be in a position to provide members with the latest and inost exact colour information from all sources.
advance and
"By getting authoritative information about fashion colour tendencies, manufae- turers and distributors will be in a better position than they are at present to prepare goods in advance of seasons. By limiting the specu- lative element from colour decisions it will make for economy in pro- "Colour plays an increasingly im-duction and reduce the risk of buy- portant part in modern commerce, ing and holding stocke." and it is the dominant factor in buying and selling in many indus- tries. It is the ruler of the textile and allied trades, both in the home and overseas markets. The dis covery of the correct colours for a
THE
It is not improbable that the new Colour Council will employ art and literary advisers in the search for new and beautiful colours for my lady's dress and to give new names to new hues.
BOOK BINDING.
Some of your most cherished pos session are Books
the hand of time has left its mark upon them and now their bindings are the worse for wear Mi Do not hesitate send them to us where they will be rebound and made like new.
We can supply any binding fancy mottled papers to full
BEAUTE
I
For the best Permanent Finger & Marcel Waves, Pedder Bldg. lat floor. Room 5 Tel. C. 5169, Opposite entrance H.K. Hotel,
"Red
IMITE
Lou Sche
'-
COATS AND FURS
A PARIS MOVE TO OUST PYJAMA SUITS
One of the thrills of the autumn openings is the new type of reat! gown. It was launched by Louise- boulanger in apparent deliberation to oust the pyjama suit from its seat for boudoir lounging, informal tea, cocktall, and dinner parties "chez sci," since it has become so popular on the beach.
They have already been dubbed "studio gowns," but their beauty is far too significant to herd them In Bohemia, unless it is a special Bohemin with an extremely elegant atmosphere. Although trousers are part of the scheme, they aro feminine and subtly cut on long Harem or straight lines, and trans- parent coverings take the form of graceful flowing skirts. These trail and dip from a bodice line made to shape like a blouse, with delicate touches of lingerle peeping through the opening of a front decollete. This fine embroidered and lace- trimmed lingerie note also develops a more feminine pyjama tread, with handsome lounge wraps of floral satins that are cut somewhat on the style of masculine dressing coats belted round the normal waist. Pink is the assured colour for these effects. Consequently pyjama trousers look just as dainty under green chiffon and pink lace as full Harem trousers of chiffon took under the same, or two differ- ent combinations of light colours- green and pink or blue and pink, for example. Sometimes only the blouse of a gown shows the differ- ent colour contrast.
The ideas that vary the straight line of the evening mode are cal- culated to range from front fichu and lapel decolletes to quilted trimmings and swathed hip lines on skirts. These mark time with Early Victorian dress paychology by being bunched in semi-polonaise fashion between the knees and waist, just
"On With the Dance"
IN
One of the newurde many payed by Anita Fage, the screen star well known for her extensive wardrobe. The bodice is plainly made with batten trimmings on sido and the top of
skirt is of rose beige taffeta. The skirt proper is made of two shades of violet chiffon and the dress in Anished with a cluster of violeta.
shoulder.
Fur coats are
Dyed Black
feature and reveal a new art in an exceptional line. The shaded parts of sking are worked up in diagonal and bine surface intricacies executed geometrical patterns. These com
at the right angle to make them is that a certain idealistic tendency look sufficiently modern. They are applicable to the "Grecian" has de- posed low enough without appear-veloped in the evening mode, which ing ridiculously old-fashioned, to is marvellously draped in effective jut out at the sides between, tight- lengths with scarves and neck ar- or they are posed in position to ap- the neck or tied in a bow on one fitting tunte bodices and hem lines,rangements carried high up round pear correct above aweeping panels.
alongside of semi-circular and. per- Quilted Fabrics
When waists are Indicated, they pendicular movements evolved from ly attractive when presented under lend charm to these new details, long and flowing with pointed hems. or round all in one to loop into soft Floral and plain taffetas both are set rather high and skirts are yokes, or long revers, worked up efficient treatment. Without in the Even though puffs might shift up least affecting the light available, and down, according to the mood of or at the sides and backs. When a
Points might dip all the way round enveloping folds round the neck. Ermine is naturally one of the these original pictures of stained the dress designer, they always sur- atraight hem curves towards the dominating furs used to achieve glass provide their panes with a mount the swathed hip motif at a back, the movement is relatively scarf effects, which frame heads in feature capable of conferring upon given point, across backs at the gradual. the house both character and dis-
It starts from a fairly waist line or just on or slightly be long front line that does not show soft, even unbroken drapes. Even- tinction.
low the hip. One of the methods Another craftworker has produc-followed exaggerating these,effects knees, but nearly as far down as
underskirts settling down at the conts and wraps are chiefly made of white ermine, but Vionnet ed admirable copies of sets of glass is the long double-panelled back to the hem of the skirt itself, effecting
uses Japanese ermine as a substi rondels designed by Walter Crane, skirts.
tute for summer ermine. For the the originals of which is believed to
an enchanting symmetry which is be among the treasures of the lent feature for taffetas worked up larly when carried out in white Quilted trimmings are an excel-distinguished and elegant, particu- Victoria and Albert Museum. They in sections or banded lines in velvet and white georgatta..... are characteristically Crane instraight, perpendicular, or geo- their figure-drawing and pleasant
colour.
Indian Princess
and
new
these new
rever-scarf and yoke-
black to scintillate with incredible first time in history she dyes ermine
splendour in artificial light. AL- most without exception, fur coats Chiffon velvets of, the most de- wrap over at the side, to be grasped materials, and when Vionnet com kept in place without any fastening licate texture are
favourite under one arm, so that the coat is bines them in two different colours The diagonal movement is conserv the main note is usually chosen in ed as the line extends from the faint as the tone of a pearl againstpoint at the hem. Cuffs, too, are the palest blush pink that is as body in correct style to a one-sided ruby red or navy blue. All the other features, and either flare at light-toned velvets have a mastic below the elbow or take a melon- shaped line graduated from above the elbow to the wrist, where they appear to be neatly manipulated in preparation for muffs.
metrical formation, designed to run- through the surface of the material. Fine quilted brocades are other themes that coincide in vein and look well when black and silver is worked up with black lace defining a diagonal line effect at the hem.
The Scarf Dollar Ensembles in tweeds velveteen coats are particularly at-quality in pinks, greens and blues, tractive when showing the
though darker toninga ke apple scarf-collar moulded all in one by
and emerald-green, frequently ap being stitched into the body of the garment round the neck and down either side to the waist in front. These acarves Are invariably executed in the same material, or a plain colour, to match dresses of tweed ensembles. They are darned through with a deeper-toned or con- trasting wool when placed on car- digan styles with fringed ends that pass underneath belts.'
This new line is illustrated with. out fringe on the elephant-grey Valveteen coat, specially sketched to convey how the approach to elimin ate fur is easily accomplished. On the other hand, furs can be 80) luxurious that two different tones of one "genre, like fox for instance. In dark and silver grey express extravagancel The collar on the second model indicates this toning tendency with furs. It is deflued, in a shawl line on a coat cut to form one of the fashionable shorter lengths for afternoon wear. The bottle-green tartan marocain of the cont is checked with fine black lines, which also marks another- Louiseboulanger tendency to use the simple selvedge of a material when interpreting hems on both coats and,
We Greelan Draperies
Madeleine Vionnet, as one of the greatert Individualistk dressmaking
Line basi
tical
note in the senso
form-18 never mar
tall The
the art of
vary, Boul
the female
pear.
A serviceable dining room suite in polished mahogany.
The low polish sideboard and gate-legged table reacc:.
harmonious tones.
Pamela
13, Queen's Rd. C.
next to St. Francis Hotel
CARDIGANS
Made of Botany Yarn.
Several marked colourings useful for wearing
with tweed skirts
JUMPER SUITS
FELT HATS
AFTERNOON GOWNS
Paris Models,
.
dzkygaratedfor