12
THE CHINA MAT
SIMPLICITY MAR
WITH ELEGANCE
SATURD
THE SUMMER COAT
OF SILK
VOLK
CHIFFON LACES
BEROS
ANO
A MARREATH OF FLOWERS PANESTHE
PLACE O
SINGLE
POSE!
PAVERE TRIMENTING "GE-ALL AND THE SHO
The Enduring
Charm of the
Slim Silhouette
The Mode Holds Possibilities of Beauty and Differentness-But Their Achievement
is, At Times, a Thing of Mystery.
Never, in the history of fushion, has, Four of the pictured modela-a}} there been so varied mode. Never has designed for evening wear, tell a story larre been a time when so many distinct of subtle touches added to themes that voguesve existol, wach content, might otherwise seem trite and cum- appaintly, gu its way without intermonplace. They exploit the vogue for dering with the ether or attempting to sheer materials, and seem to prove rival it would almost seem that conclusively the wisdom of us vogue. Leach opg rognizes the right of the in passing it may be noted that the other existente, which is extremely sheer fabrics have elements of practi satisfactory to the wen of these pality, for they clean well and
odex.
acceptably.
Everybody is wearing an eiserable. m-that-on-the-other-thing; a two-piece, umper dresaj u coat frock, a dress of heer fabric, a silk cent or some other one of the many dealty fashions of the hour Now variety nie in its general onse of gratifying, but it loses its nice ness when it is so thoroughly absorbed
wear
The me of white chifon, made tune fashion over a slip, has a circular Hounce of any are that begins at the waistline. It is repeated on the slip und finishes the sleever, the point of n Larend-liku joining outlined in embroidery. Note the slight fullness each side of the whistline and the rose
ht the mode at it loses its motif that peeps through the fabric at dividuality: And this seemingly, the present danga, while the exact opposite
18 true.
the left shoulder. These are both out- of-the-ordinary, and effective in pro portion.
You may say "Well! an ensemble is A srcopd model finds the normal an ensemble, a jumper oust in a jumper waistline best for its purpose, defining Lare is used for the outh and so on and on. In a general it with a rage, way this is true, but a little study flounce that in edged with a bend Iranovy, and for the yoke that matches sevenls the. Inel that variety exists in cach sepurate yogue, and is attained in its points in the points on the skirt, ways so subtle that they are hard to The idea of embroideries to accent out- define Subtlety is simplicky, simplicity lines is comparatively new, and, it the in tegance, and elegance characterizes a me te, deciledly amart, knding the the many interpretitions of the mode tour of unusuality that the season n general..
Even Fabrica Contribute A Part,
No elegance is more subtle than that;
demands.
A Straight Line Silhouette.
The always acceptable black frock
ef fabrics, which must exist before a appears, this time, in Georgette, with a
embruidezies, which appear
Again the ten-
model by ervated. The supple deep hand of ceru lace, accented by softness of them, their fine texture, headed their exquisite colourings are, not in-again at the neckline. frequently, quite enough of ornamenta-dency to form-filing, achieved through finu tucks lid at the waistline. A Llen. And the combination of one fubric with another or the blending of scarf desert the neek and the front of one tone with another enn often be the model, keeping to the shoulder and relied upon to finish what the material the back. A vestes of white permits a
derided "V. itself has begun.
Much of the seemingly dusive charmi that characterizes present-day fashions is due to a harmonious blending of shades or of apparently distinct velours.
A fall skirt, attached to the bodice by narrow bended belt, a rounded neck.
line, no flounce, no frills, no Zurbelows.
Such a description without the pictured
There are rilliant Lones, but they model before us would be commonplace bolong, by rights, to aports wear, und enough, but there in the applique. In a
it is when there is a subtle fusion of deeper tone of chiffon, kept in place by apparently unrelated, tints that an an beads, it makes the frock.
usual effect is produced. The use of
gray with brown is an example of this. THE SUMMER COAT OF SILK. It is unexpected, but smurt.
The coat of twili or charmeen, or a
fabric similar to their type, has a rival
at least for as long as warm weather holds. It is the coat of silk-faille,
Simplicity is imperative, and it is! when it is achieved in some unusual ay that we apply the term subtle to 11. This satiety came in with the
The evening cape has been replaced Ridened hemline that made possible bengaline, taffeta or noft satin, and in many instances, by the evening coat, more than one version of the flared it is a distinct acquisition, so far as the and when this is the case, silk is the ilhouette. It will be noticed however, wardrobe
So far its concerned.
logical fabric for it. The silk iixelf is that however, devious the route that colour is very generally, black, but one
rather more elaborate, richer, more travelled, the end is enuasumingly can prophesy wilk coats in white and colourful, than is used in daytime simple.
colours for the vacation months with modela, but that would be imperative. little fear of providing an ill-advised The evening mode is a thing of beauty, prophet.
and to its making and elaboration are brought the lovellest staffs and the most possesses. effectivo trimming touches that fashion In the pictured group are included two erning costs, both of a silken fabric. They have the loose sleeve, allra lines,
It must be remembered that it is season when separate coats play a very important part in fashion. As a part of the ensemble suit and as a possible part, they potential backgrounds,
'The Unexpected Trimming Touch.
A survey of the many models of frocks, suita and conta surves to prove the value of trimming-especially if be applied in a manner that is unusual It is the suggestion, not the reality, that most effective in oxpressing an idea, it is the motif that leaves one in doubt, and just at present the black afik cost rather than the actuality that is plainly is quite the smartest thing on the and wrap around effect that are of their seen at first glance. It the use of horizon. fla a wonderful place de particular mode While the one in a medium we, have annochited with one resistance in the frothy, fullness of collared withöstrich the other iden for the deaning of one utterly summer dresses against its sombre recognizes the value of actideal flowers, different that makes for Individuailty. ness is silhouetted the lovely colours adding a noto of unusuality to the wrap "It may be a line of piping, bands of that fashion sponsora,
The fabric in its own ornamentation. Wiching, graduated, erhops; An mnusual collur treatment, a bolero or
THE WAY OF BLISTER
t{ » he
LUPE OF YOUTH
COLLARS.
SIMBLE
THE HOME DRESSMAKER.
Clothes Aro
afearful temptation, thers days. There are times when it takes of ones will power to keep from dipping into the savinga column of one's budget and transferring an item or two to the dress allowance. But this would ruin the efficacy of even the most care- fully thought out budget, so there murt
you at a reasonably small price. You do not have to eassy sleeves in the summer dress cap of face may relievo plainnear.
The succonaful attempt to some b expensive material will soon, show you Just what can be done with the fabrics and fashions of the day. And you will
be other means and ways to the desir-gradually become more expert, altempt able end. One of those ways the home dressmaker travel, and by this designa- tion is meant the seamstress, even though she be au amateur at cutting and atting.
mca
things more difficult, until you and yourself supplementing your more elaborate frocker and suite with all manner of clover things-you may oven, in times, transfer items from your dren allowance to the savings column!
THE VERY NEWEST JUMPER:
It is utterly new and unusual-a of variety for the wardrobe. First of all; it has a high neck, and is known as the high-neck jumper. It has long sleeves as well, cut full toward the wrist, as a rulo, although there ar other types. The skirt features pleat- ing of some sort--the kick plcat, pea- sant pleating, all-the-way round ordin- ary pleating. And a deal of ingenuity is expended in the trimming which inclines to some form of embroidery, if silk or wool. Occasionally the high neck is the result of a scarf arrange- ment, and there are all sorts of odditi Navy, white and certain odd shades of green, red or purple are the favoured colours just at the moment.
navy or
* Velvet-black
brown-i being used for trimming touches on the newest tweed' suite.
Just What Makes an ENSEMBLE?
It is a day of excellent pattorns which Berve as an equally excellent foundation for.success; fabrics are ornamental in themselves; handwork is an approved form of decoration, and lines may be simple, if one is not an expert. Your Arst problem is the choice of the pattern that suits your figure and your abilities. The first rule in dressing should always be "Know Thyself and that, in turn, know your most becoming colours, lines and types of garments.
For first attempt one-ples frock or a jumper dress lanfest. It should be tried out in a "pattern" fabric, bust- The word "ensemble" is much over- ed together as a model. It is easy to worked in fashion comments of the make changes,o this pattern dross,
season. It is the "open Sesame" to which may then be used in place of the
smartness in the eyes of the average. pattern itself, and there will be no woman, but is quite as likely to be a bar danger of spoiling the more expensive to it. if its parts ars not carefully itted materiala. You will And it quite pos-together. Many costumes Er not sible to make several dresses from the
'ensembles at all, though the yearer of same model, varying them acceptably outfit la serene in the satisfaction that through fabrics and trimming
the feeling of good grooming, and correct You may lend variety to your ward- apparelling always gives. As a robe by making several jumper waists in this case a woman-thinks!"
+
en outfit, and summer is sure to bring the paradel into the group.
Shoes, hosiery and gloves make an ensemble, and not infrequently an item is taken from one group and added to another, the boundaries are elastic. The handkerchief is sometimes grouped with scarf and hat or with some other combination, and one may match and group to please herself. Lingerie, boudoir apparel, bathing and beach, attire-all feel the influence of the ensemble klen.
When its parts are of the same fabrics, the same colour shades of
to a single skirt, the former so easy to This, in spite of the fact that the make that even the most inexpert can-word ensemble is broad of interpreta- not fall. Cotton voilea and Georgettes tion, and may be variously construed to may be added to the list of trigen and At many purposes. Its inception was the same colour, or the trimming id; the slika in numbers that will most the so-called three-piece suit, consisting same, then the costume is nsemblz. satisfactory, for they are compatively of frock and crat, or, genuinely three- - When colours are crudely chosen and inexpensive and it the same time are piece, of skirt, blouse and cost. Its inharmoniously matched, even though extremely. Yuried.
The son's convenience and it real contribution to the fabric is identical and the trimmings penchant for rufios, flounce, and smartness made it a fundamental; and as well, then the "esstume is not an Tutler skirts is loveliest when applied from it has sprung all the many other onzemble, but un offence against cofrest to these fabrics.
ensembles with which we are hacming dress. The idea, truly interpreted i Bear in mind the triraming possibili- familar. the, latter slashed and buttoned; and
of the utmost value to fashion, but liks, the balloon sleeve that begins its full-scarf hematitching, fagrotting and
ties of ribbons, buttons, the popular Curiously enough, the ensemble salt all ideas, it is bound to be abused.
has come to consist of parts that are, full but extremely graceful Boss close to the shoulder and is very tacking, embroideries and appliques. at first glance, apparently related Lace edged rafies, floating panels. It is only eloso observation that tas bandings of a plain or a printed fabric subtle touch that links, The circular love is just a circle of
the part the fabric, with a hole in the exact are fashion details that the home dress has little in common with, frock of on printed or a plain material these together is discovered. A black cont seatre where it is joined to the sleeve, maker can use. And there are so many printed silk in shades of green-until high up on the arm; the feelsleeve sways of trimming the neckline that lack one realizos that the lining of the cost abovelty, springing out into a shape of variety is impossible... » like the calyx of a lower its edges, The large woman can glory her and a touch of trimming, black, accents rapnate the desper note of the print, haped like petals, and there are straightline trock, with a touch of the coat colour, various interpretations of the sleeve ambroidery or claver appliques For that widens at the wrist, yet is fairly the small wornan all the part friis and tailored variety that makes the long-sleeved hemstitched-propare the lengths of in appearance. Is this tucks and ruffles. Your ruffies may be medo so, interesting
material and the work will be done for
DID YOU KNOW
#
Br slender bonds, then, are the parts. bound, one to the other, but such honda trimming one of the three, or all three exist and are of fabric, calvary or And the variation and width of inter pretation makes it possible to achieve varies in the entire costume, not just the filt alone, Ant in direct contradi -to this idea, we have the rigid'ensemble. that falls for one of two things—all the „parts in harmonious tones of the same
colour or all of the same colour:
The ribbed silke have had it all their way for quite some time, with very
THAT the nowest Bangkok hat is "nock sweater, the balbriggan jumper pe effect on the back of a coat, or it little opposition from even satin.
They
very smart with velvet and gardenlas ? frock the shellistitch costume and the may be gay buttons that give the arrest are the logical choles of the large
The velvet binds the bifo ang bands the three-plece unsemble. Ing touch to the model." But, it in the woman, for their dull surfaces do not
crown, and the gardenias are: poland Tolle is adju
The latter in somewhat difficult of fot-of-the-ordinary treatment that increase apparent size. But for her
cayinst the sins, back dynaw varsion of the ensemble Table for attainment and elf for the -uimost. achieves subtlety, which is synonymans who fins a fear of its glominess, eatin with individualized charm Fabric, is smart, and we are rapidly becoming intrenchef in fashion's favour is be kept neatly in place by a cap of
The long-sleeved gown firmly wave or your water wavingcombe may madd on an underbodice of muslin and are attainable and charming when **THAT your {afely acquired"marcella | summer, wear? it in a pleated skirt, care in selecting the parts – But both elgur, unusual line or unexpected trim acquainted, once again, with taffeta infined to be temperamental. It is at meshed fabric bound with coloured worsted in the sare shade
wom with a smart, sweaters of safe, correctly aṣazmbled y It han, been a ing touch-these make up the desir. It belongs to us all--both the large time, very close and tight, but while bil? It lois des adjunky string
the skirt. long time since the costume all of one bie characteristic of elegance
and the amall-along with the 'zibbed may be wholly tailored and Anstalt runs through the barton and tea ing a prominencs that bids fair to It forecasts a return to softer shades THAT wool jeríay rapidly rom-colour or shade her bodo fashionable." There are many clever variations of | weaves. the Jabot on blouses, frocks and even The silk cat loves fullness, for it Backcuff that calls for sleeve links;
alloyed, it may, again, show a turn-under the chin
become a voquet Blouses of flis f'and more subtle colpur harmošlog ve seats, the latter presenting the problem can bave iti charm, yet remsta slender. extend down over the hand, springing come to ipin the already large group of worn with pleased kirts of the apps or whole costume and is quite pour THAT, unusual border effecta, have fabric, trimmed with crepe de chias, are The ensemble need not apply: lo of "When is a rover not agrover and. The cirralar rufe, fullness to the front
bit, og 16. /mmy, bægr clabón y prifted Labjist #D
with's matching
Date Jenerace for an encambla to be rand ensembles.
4
answering it with the Jabot. The rume", and; Warious interpretations of the wide - brollata Piron 2 brilleted, der oped in WWMSTN The Aravat, the Intteritin.tk match, in fabricoleste, ac
own, sotting its frivolity against the of it, and tas penchant for ide
Kas returried, to, fæablón "with Mona' off beru idea belong, naturally to the modelma Sant slove, tha 9kémaller designs are set the top of the it can be worn thriNGWAYS TRAIL Fasallo"
dark simplicity of the tailored mode. never and fabot effects it logical part dibly very little from the Babon border
time of contrasts the grave with of this fashion. Embroider pri latter cuffed. tit form THAT Fashion decrees DE KARAR deling quer all the whima
at the wril; the underclove that pare Chosen Modes Show A Sibtle touch is part of therfOR
open with the tie fastened vortarov knitted scarf-ize; fastened in likes
all splotta occasions. The or be tied close to the throat, fores
are the turtle enda falling back.
becomulan ensammlung