10
THE CHINA MAIL.
FIRST LAST
BY CARBARA
AFINILOhgun
wances and JOEL XEOLA
and
ALWAYS
WHEN A HAY GROWS WINGS- OF FILITY LACE) -
SATURDAY, AUGUST 29, 1925.
HATS
Balbriggan Arrives.
It has been on the way for some time, progressing slowly, but perceptibly, Leward fashion prominence. Sports. modes find expression in this fabric, which is quite as practical as it is attractive, and it is specially identified with the two-piece jumper dress; the double breasted, short-coated exit, and straight line frocks of great smariness,
It comes in the tones that we have come to know as "pastels," although some of the shades are rather free inter- pretations of the name. There are darker tones for the more practical. purposes that the day's activities demand, but the general effect of any model in the material is one of sim- plicity, especially of ne Details supply the necessary smariness.
The two-piece frock consialy of a dip-length jumper, quite plain and with an inclination to snugness, long-sleeved, pocketed, perhaps, and with a neckline that can be worn either high or low, as the wenrer chooxes. The skir Bually features the kick pleat, either back, front or at one or both sides. The tailoring is scrupulously perfe
The one-piece dress has many of the features that characterize the jumper sutfit, being severe of line, long-sleeved, | "kick-pleated," and with
convertiblo neckline. The belt appears, placed at the line that is most becoming to the wearer, and buttons-usually in the same colour, if not the exact shade of the fabric-are prodigally ed. "
"The newest knicker auits use bal- briggan, and there are attempts being made to combine it with tub, silk summor fabrics with this newest weave. | Fashion prophets insist that balbriggan will be one of the most popular of the many fa materinia-there is sound sense in their prophecy..
THE FLOWERS OF SUMITTER
HIDE FROME A HUNTCA LABANG,
Brims Assume Importance-It is Chiefly a Question of Taste As To Size"
and Fabric-The Sports. Hat.
The pictured hat with a velvet crown traites this quality. The narrow ruffle of sheer fabric, matching the facing of the brim, accentuates the droop, and the all-the-way-round
wreath of tiny
flowers, placed underneath rather than above, adds unusuality. It is really a mudel in a winter material, yet it is mintakably sammerish in effect It may be that there will come & time when there will be no "season" in hats!
If variety is the spice of life. then, quality is its picturesqueness, and the millinery is the spice of fashion. There brim is synonymous with it. is always a mude dying out; always a mode being born; but few, if any, of the many styles live to a ripe old age In a way the history of euch vngue Erepents itself, yet there is enough that is wholly new in conception to make the D may choice more interesting. heritute between the model she is sure of, and the new model that she is not, with a pleasurable feeling of gaming.
July and August are our hottest months, though early Jane seemed a fororunner in Jael,, not prophecy, of the Chested term to comic. Onu would naturulty look for hats of lightweight Zabries, and one would, in spite of it find many models of what we have come to look upon as winter materials. And such is the whimsicality of the Tensione mind that-finding them, we wear them, rensonable or no.
If there is any real quarrel going on in the world of millinery it in about This matter of fabrics, or. to be specifie, about materials other than fabrics. And any competition inahin is nro. ductive of variety-for-like business It thrives on such a condition. So beginning with a brief outline-hats are both large and small, with medium shupen to hold the two together; wide of brim, narrow af brim and brimless; of straw, of felt, of velour, of ribbon, will and satin.
that
The Sports Hat Takes Definite Form.
PTOGEL IN CREPE BUZN.
CLUSTERS DE GAPELSINS
Refusing to droop; flirting a bit with the sailor crown idea; then faring independently; the model of lace and satin strikes a wholly different note. Flanges of the lace, to match the brim, are the only trimming, and the result is an unusual hat, of a striking sim plicity that is almost tailored. It belongs to the filmy frock mode and would "go" with any costume for the afternoon.
Oddities Of Line And Trimming.
The newest models of small hats show less and less inclination to fantastic shapeeso far as crowns are concerned. But the brims do the drellest sort of things quite fearlessly. Perhaps the felt hat get the fashion of slashing the brio and making it serve as a trimming.
A second "pictaru," as well as pie-, but this is sure the brim that is ent tared, hat, uses heavy black crepe for and crossed, one end over the other, is its fabric, facing the brim with white a clever way of providing the bit of fort pe de chine. The crown is draped, decoration necessary.
and the only trimming ie the cluster of These slashed brime do all sorts of urcissus placed at either side and things, and the idea has taken hold of again-under the brim. There is no straws as well as faits. There is some- evading the fact that flowers are the thing unapproachably smart about the most appropriate of all the many trim- hat of untrimmed felt. It is boyishiy mings for the summer season. They youthful, but it is hard to wear, for it increase in beauty with each successive, brings nothing of softness to the lines year.
The Straight Brim Is Disealt. We hear comparatively little of the sailor, these past few years, but many of the smart and new-large bats have brim that is mailar-ke. The model of straw, with fabric bound edge, has
of the face. Yet it remains an all- occasion hat-the leader in the millinery I mode, elinging with the same persist-
ency that the cloche evidenced.
And there is the hat of veloare! To: be sure it is "feather-weight," but it seems out of the warm weather picture.
it is designed for summer sports wear
ItH
such a brim, and it borrows height from of all things-und has a tiny roll the hats of early spring, achieving it brim that is cleverly turned and finished by a veritable bouquet of flowers. in the back to cover the bob. There is a slight droop to this straight colours are gay and it is meeting with brim that makes it a possibility where a deal of success.
The Eat of white satin has the blue. The brim rolla in front and the straight brim and a dorac-shaped crown,narrow band that trims the hat to relieved from plainness by the folds of cleverly buckled-in back! There is no the fabric that paid the upper part. It use quarrelling with fate or fashion. lows the confidence of the designer If the latter says "felts," why we shall
in materials other than straw for the wear them, and they surely have much summer months,'
to commend them.
a more severe line would not do at all, Hats of white felt compromise with for an uncomproming straightness is this newcomer and accept a facing of Since sports clothes have unly J
never generally becoming, no matter brightly coloured velours-pistache Bomi-ulliance with sports, the hat that where one finds ft.
green, royal purple, heather, porcelain complements the costume may be one of two types, the practical little affair usefully smart, and the more picturesque sort that is a fitting part of the more dressy ensamble. The one in the hat of the woman of action; the offer is the hat of the spectator. And both have much to commend them.
Sports hats-whether large or small -run pretically the entire range of materials. Perhaps the crushable straws, the silks and ribbons are the preferred choice for the amoll hut, but The large hat uses thum, 100, and shares with the small hat the popularity of felt. It is not an easy matter to find the dividing line between the sports hat and the tailored or dress hat, so elastic is the mode.
WHAT IS THE PERFECT CHOICE-."
IN SHOES?
The woman in a tailored suit wears, When fashion decreas that skirts be comfort.
If you have a-short ramp foot, wear practically the same model that is worn long, the expert will tell you that you by the woman on the golf links, and must be specially careful of your choice short vamp shoes; if you have a long 'the guest at a garden tea wears a hat of shoes, for the long skirt is, as a rule, vamp foot, wear long vamp shoes; if quite similar to the one that is worn narrow, and shoes are prominently your foot demande' it, wear a high heel by the apostator at track, links or featured. And we know that shoes are courts. Fabrics are much the same and most important when skirts are short, so are shapes, and the same may be as they are at the present time. So t said for trimmings-f any Perhaps would seem that the question of foot- the aports hats show gayer colours, but wear is always momentous in ita evon that might be a matter for dis- relation to the costume. cussion.
We laugh at the oft reposted atory of the man who wore tan shoes, with
The favourite straws are Milan, evening clothes, yet many women wake Leghorn, Bangkok, baihuntl, hemp mistakes just as laughable, did they but tagal and peanut; the preferred fabrič
know it. There are, many types of.
are faille, bengning, crepe de chine, footwear, these days, and cach typo has crope Elizabeth, ribbon belting and
= special place in the scheme i
antin. And quite in a class by them And fashion calls for certain. solver are thò felts and velours. One combinations and effects to carry val Boou mors felts-in proportion-than her ideas of smartness, the while the any other material, and there is little individual is interested in fit and com sign_of_anything to even share their popularity.
Interest Centres On Both Crown
And Brim....
All through the early spring wa were treated to the most amazing whimsi- calities in crowns. They were peaked
fort
Bo many times the colour and the type are not compatible with comfort. precluding the perfect choice. Then it is that the latter means a weary search for just the right model, and that search, should be continued until the end
and dented and otherwise manipulated, attained, for each quality of fitness te until there was, seemingly, no further purpose, suitability to the costose, and variation ponsibin. Brims were neglect comfort to the wearer-in equally neces
ed and left to their former wayssary to the final choice
With the coming of the largo kat atten- - The orthopedist has been responsible.
low-centred or itely crowis, and for any radical charges in the ore A Wholly New Ides In Sports Shoes- small hats look to their brima,,
situation,.......... We are become a ziora
· The Combining Of Patent Leather:
Tus Lin't an awful lot one can do active people in the past few decades armes Anal Pebula Gontakin. so-Ebm brim of large hat, for it is the and Rietum hon i pro
i prurent activity
#bring that makes it large.. It may doon and From the fashion point of viewSty
mends them is remedy for toot trouble.
"make" of shoes Among the many there is sure to he one that fits you perfectly, and unce you find it, your task is ended. The occasional exception that proves the general rule will have her to have her shoes made to measurement, and she will find it not When she ns costly as she thinks. counts the shoes she buys and never "weary" out—because they do not fit it will be strange if the cost of made-to- order shost is not leas
Sports clothes demand sports shoes of the low, broad heal and sturdy type.. The tailored dress or suit calls for the tailored shoe-represented this part- zular season by, the Oxford and some of the simpler strapped model. The antinside is not a street shoe, #nor,, obviously is the velvet model. For |semi-formal attire, the opera prop end the more ornate slippers and sandals are the choice for evening the evening alipper, of course,
Bits of patent leather or of bright kid are used as trimming, and one clever model has lacings of patent leather to
The brassiere, camisole and chemise {have formed a partnership to the exclu
sion of every other undergarment: And the partnership does business under the Time of the cuminiere-a thing of Milanese silk and silk elastici
FLOWERS GROW BY HIGH
A CROW m
relieved white footwear, even when the axelusion of the rest. The vogue. for danger of its slipping at the heel, for a heel is high and the vamp short. So coloured hosiery has had much to do poor fit is both annoying and ugly.. fashion favours the combination of with this, for one, is inclined to study The general shoe trend is toward white with black or a colour.
the effect of the shoe against the back simplicity, which makes perfection in ground of the stocking. The shades in at deably imperative. The ornamental hosiery are not as pale, but they are shoe is attractive, but when it was Arat pale mnough to result in a decided con- introduced, it was too gaudy, often. trast
times. One should take the costume into consideration, matching the shoe to some detail of it. There is a grow. ing tendency to match one's slippers to one's evening gown
When the type of shoe has been decided, upon, it is wall to consider the make-up of its in relation to the foot that wears it Vit in the desiraĵot every woman to make her føst look small, and designers are co-operating with her in the attempt to ity that desire It
taalpally matter of linery and comparisons will soon they which mer match the
A One-Etra Afternoon Model
·Fine. Blonde Kidskin! With
Hiltching To Match
at the many bertant the particular smart, to Individual
for hè straight or, in a sort of frenzy, no matter how many that model may but do not change from high heale, that, there
dano; it may be narrow at the back or be, it lows is the fit doen mak, to low, or vice versa... This old bagaboo
there, shaped, but it virtute at the foot in the fir kt. 86: töre of tich Bhole--and their balsom shadiness, and nothing should be done has come
to take this quality away. Yet another quite broad
ocks
alety. In lasta, has bom dispelled, and it happens, not Sign tosiaandikimi introquently, that the physiot
#foot
DID YOU KNOW?
The Oxford as it used to be will not do with a light coloured stocking for It makes an ugly line around the ankle So, this messen, we have the ornate model that is strapped and perforated and tongusiest, to that the tearation from dark to fight is less noticeable, Tese shrapt. Even then it la the better part of wisdom-if you care for the THAT Mademoiselle is finding the shape of your ankle, to choose the silk coat, cut with the new flare-in-the- darker rather than the lighter shades back silhouette most flattering? They of approved colours,
are lined with white, have no fur to Much is being made of the opers mar. their simplicity and they came Purp and it is an exceedingly graceful straight from Paris. fashion, It is a life-saver when a THAT she likes, too, the fannel person is inclined to be plamp; wishes ensemble suit with a one-piece, frock alim little to wear light hoalary, and does! If the buttoning at the side and stockings match the dress, or are in a coat with a Chanel collar? A long tie! shade to tone in with it, this type of in two toned colour combination, shoe will not cut height. It is a most matches the piping on the coat. attractive summer shoe, rivalling the THAT her frock will, more than long, popular strapped models that are; likely, be of black satin or silk crepa de gradually, discarding their strapa chine with a long over-blouse. gayly
Of the many atrapped shoes the type embroidered with an elephant 1 that was one sta preferably broad colour will be navy, French blue, white —in etiketalt "At times the strap is or pink and its sleeves will be long. of a different colour from the shoe. THAT ber sports, frock may choose- ftwalt, and whan worn with a stocking one of the new tab silks for its fabric matching the strap, the effect is that in combinations in which rose, blue, or at the opera pump To go back, for orange stripes will predominate. It is bit to the Inter-be sure the last in smart, becoming, and what is best of right for you, and built so there is an all, it launders beautifully.
'shade.
YET AGAIN OR BOTH.
Fide chifte
about the ("For afterpon, and for street waar, and Paris la brimming them with touches of on the contrasting colour or slipping a bit of printed alik bazeath their sheer
The fransparent conte and wears that favourites with: fashion, ensembisi for, varied purposse, and the mhart knitted bears and, golf costumes- that are so much in demand are all, onturna In this lovable colony, And: there are hata ofislik crepe, bengaline, Bangkok,
ht
Sebuts and