SATURDAY, MAY 16, 1925.
THE CHINA MAIL.
INTERPRETING THE SPRING COAT MODE
A Record of Its Whimsicalities and the Infinite
Details That Make Its Simplicity—
There Are Many Versions of It.
There no time of the year when the Aparat cant is out of style. It way be that it is stregand a little more "at the beginning of a "spnson, when the make changes, but that thee are. always kinta olgehange to keep thing ioreting And whether une cepta the early fashions: wadts an'il the mide in settled or delays her patrchase for themevitable murkiłown; there is much La intemer. Over the reţurate font there is always the shalow of fashiome 10 mdfecting in her sonall degree, The fashiona, Uimat neve
1 may be monotonous the latt -podarenes, uni fahries, lies and malaur
but it is ingerative, for those lazek the fundametals; they are The made itself. We say that the oak meric s varied; we mean that there is a wide chonge of materials; of ectours, and shades of colours, of Bhes, anul We andude in the latter both the silica-Etie anal the truning detail. This Is Lojeradly true night me, in the midst
D what may bondly Ep Rusijom sist steges fulso,
The spring cat is really tam skirtep cunt, though matvointa enpresa okus nat the sping, setisien wanesan Farmer
wome 21. thau de nepravdespon the other, wit for the wn sinh, ma May work that
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Colours, then, run, the range from the lens to the dark shares, with a den ot very bius. Especially gani aru the brown tones; and when summer- with it whits soul pistol toned frocŁA, agriv, Vilere will be mang'couts in the lighter shades, Blond and gray co vig woh sperially the latter, since The Fid Lany of the Land assured ita apulanty by placing it for her Inauguration Day vaistaing, Chili rod Black, 1. god; mo, tau, Venezin blue, ns always, is Fashion,
There are the silhouettes, really, at pay by Bormed "het." There is, Best wall, the diely tailored coal, gry atom haalt, very start, of unrelievel Panormitus. Next in relative import- at the xt.night oat with, sofi für sultar and,, paall, sum sort of an, interesting y treatment, Theney it te an envy, Strlugh a contaderable slap, that with tailored, furlers nerki.
and the Hared or straight skirt with. Far en Lond.
final intervent is being phown in the 1g Bulova muđela khat have a certain snap and dach that is unexperten if view of their plain lines, Tree, nunc of them wale kole at contrasting trip- amanda wa flogati nad woletur, traf. thegy camer 18 thei, type whenruf a single dan buto ad unishly, and on-
201
a sprzeg mind is a matte por car fuiting and outḥtut leon Paen, maken
The tugist. most bar prentsat, to pt 1 tuldu a ovako od satin, but oftens shem
will von hand veg 2 and
extrem de its styleg, i
hoot with disungen alt at "romarty Hadvidual for partie insidanting
chiiiuri,
Are
The Silhouette Demands. Soft
Fairies,
1 Fram, hem igith my
reproviy two Models ABKAN Vis one ange dens fine laet, Chur thea ke seeding, variation in line:,
cowars in tamings and the pharg best timed it is not difBesult o bang.me the width of a pogible choirdi.
**Tie werven, of Bogfabrics Lany hot h Now of far in a dreideg fashion conder to "hy whins of designs | fana PM, squirrel, Ex, went ind This shamiz, four with their Die toe en pad the thing the erlayed. The feliness, increasive daily a netach dieper dare godels and irent plutongs nipplumes of die material is Pensad to val "danight, copt the how full- tive. Its dubult tasting anal case ros, which is, ný thự waựt inclined in of the walls and repom yang dep to the prank, the bank remaining repcially, thase at the ribbed velktgif foll
thegan chagnieón and Kashi i todians wow; sa da stazės; qui diere cloths, and the satins and bengalaman dont flag cur the badet.
i ter se chute of trafenbauery o
DE WAIN Krowa "warmer,
Siplig by interpeted with Lue fabrics, the sims that take to expert failoring so dedi, ansf_simplie ly in the
"
of
Dowly smagt rucking, mew the familme Tazedo enllár: the coljar that Toll from neck to hem; ta lurist collars
THE MASCULINE TAILLEUR.
A revival of the spring season for 24, and steadily iverging instmport- anew, in a time. the masculine Cailleur, moulded with all the meticulous care of a man's it, and adding to its tutoring a dash of swagger carm, has speure place in the general fashion
heme. And if Milady goes in furs varietgailored vuit is sure to rub elbows with the more elaborate ensem- Be in her wardrobe.
Bath fabric and colour of this suit are conservative. the former including the cheviots, tweeds, reps, envert riotha, kasha, whipcord and certain nuvelty woollen materiala. Colours are the usual "yuiling" 'shades--hinek and white, certain shades of gray and we always-navy und midnight bice. Efects are inconspicuous in both colour and fabric.
A discussion of the silhouette reveals Tittle that in; new. since the approved Thses for the tailored suit must be straight and slim. Asja rule the suit is all of one fabric, though there are some variations, and the blouse that complementa the suit is of heavy silk or crepe de chine. Skirts are short- one need not say it--and couts may be aither hip-length knes-length although the former in considered
marter.
or
One expects all the nicety of detail and fine quality of workmanship that the word "masculine" implies, for the plainer and simpler a model, the more imperative it is that there be perfec tion of tailoring. On the Ptrictly teilored quit there is little trimming, Iral and buttons a part of the general idten. Revera are wider this year, influenced, perhaps by the jubet.
VZLOORS WITH. JOYED
FITCH AND
MBROIDE/PY
عرض
& SYLÆ
SCARP
In Print & Out of It.
There is hardly a fundamental or an accessory 5 the mode that does not appear in print, thereby proving its relative importance. And whatever one's personal Zeel; ings may be as to the value aź what appears in print, she accepta the "printed' word" of' fashion without authori We have had printa before, and shall, no doubt, have them again; but never before "huve they been as colourful, smart
and original; it seems hard to: imagine that the future will bring: anything more acceptable,
Prints enter the mode by the way of fabrics and are simulated with both embroideries and appli ques Silka, crepes, chillong and- Georgettes: a wide variety of novelty materials; and the whole family of cottons" And them so very enticing that they seem to be wholly unable to do without them: -all to their benefit. They are, in no small measure, responsible for the charm of the ensemble suts mode, for they play a very promin ent part in it, providing a brillianco, that is not too strong and fre quently linking dress and cont by way of a watching lining.
Whether you sport. or watch while someone else Kuty the exercise, you will be guy in a frock of printed silk-and. ander, the sun and the sky, the gayer the print, the better. And the real daytime frock makes use of prints. not quite a bold as for sports, but, distinctive enough to need no trimming excent the colour and the draign of the silk itself. And there are limits to the charm of "chiffana and tieorgettes, aline or in
combination with laces for the" semi-formal or dance frock.
The beach mode early recognized the possibilities of this ready! made" ornamentation; and even the practical swimming suit har had to make obwisance, accepting- anplique of eretonne as a sort of glorified print. And beach attire.. that has no intent of getting wet. Ands it easy to see the bright patterns. Parasols of prints, expecially those of cretonne. Japanese in shape; and scarfs, all of print or bordéred with a printed design, are acvepted accessory, modes.
TRAVEL ACCESSORIES.
DE LUXE
IX
venient writing cast includes stationery, 'pencil-a pen may be substituted
A letter opener. stamp book and hasty-line pad, extremely convenient if one be moving rapidly, is. Aomewhat more compact. If the trip is to be an extended one, the case may be larger and boasts a lock and key in place of the knap.
* The luggage of the present day is an 'j one of the many that considers her; Ilustration, each and everyone of them incentive to travel, if for no other pur luggage unsatisfactory until it hears useful, decorative, imperative, A con- pole than the joy of its possession and the unmistakable'marts of travel usage. the convenience of ita novel charmi The nitted suitcase 'comes in many models, but the one Chat most Expecially do this apply to what in generally known as "hand" luggage, intriguing has a tray that may be the beautifully outfitted pieces that ifted out, folded together and carried contain, within their smart looking separately us a toilet.caNO, when u exteriors, all the necessary fitting for journey presupposes trunks at the a week-end stay, and room a-plenty for journey's end. This is but one of the fie needed wearing apparel.
many ingunious devices for travel com- fort, and the fittings usually include mirror, brushes, shoehorn and various ensus and bottles for toiletries. They are of shell. ivory, gold or silver us
ne's purse and tante--dietatés.
Ard no we approach the summer, when both short and long trips are in order, our interest enies and bags will quielten, and we will be alive to their possibilities, nat, only for our own. use, but for the hard-to-decide-upon gift for her who is to journey far. And there are little conveniences as well as big, the former designed so compuct.ly that they will fit snugly away in the larger piece, yet be quite complete in Dhemselves.
First in importance if the journey he brief, is the fitted "suit case, truly luggage de laxe and soul-satisfying to even the most fastidious woman. It may be of a grain leather, always con-" servative; russet, brown or blueir
MOTORCOT cowhide pig-skin
cabra cowhide, or the popular black enameled. duck." if you wish, it may have a waterproof "cover, though you may be
An overnight hug is a necessity, these days, of both meter and train travel. This type of luggage in extremely versatile, and the workmanship of these pieces e extremely good. They are leather lined; hand sewed, and laxari- ourly fitted out with articles of the toilet. The very newes iden in this. accensory is the "kit bag," a replies of thul so-convenient iece of luggage.
Aping the suitcase with detachable tray, there is an overnight ease that has a tiny tray,-removable also, and it may be folded up into a vanity case for evening use. It in a very lovely affair, coming as it does in the spring khudes, its fittings of cloimmune. It is a hint for June gift-giving and bride or sweet girl graduate would udore ita convenient lovelinera,
Hints for the traveller uppear in tre
I
That one may not omit a single friend from, her postcard list, there is the address beak, convenient for suggested addresses along one's route, as well as And the for the list of friends. record of the trip must be kept-Ins either diary, which may be locked and safely keep one sécrets, or in "My Trip" record book. And for such ills as may benet arie on the JourneyRS there is the little medicine case-its presunce may subvert the need of it! P
Suggestive of the group of travel accessories that take care of anec amusements, there is the Bridge case
with the requisite cards, score nadi pencil. If chess he your favourital pustine, or Mah dongg, or cribbage of the delightfully old-fashioned game of checkers-these may be had in trave kize: That folk still find pleasure in dominoes is proven by the smart but for this droll game. It is quite possibi to travel light," so far as luggage concerned, and at the same time travel well.
ECPCULAR
ZYCREAT PORULARI
keynote of the designer and maker of waps and coats, is the simplicity that mystifies, the simplicity of quality; the simplicity that the amateur mny not attain. Slender lines are not enough, there must be perfection of time; a wide tem is not sufficient, there must be graca in the sweep af it, a certain vervo . and dash.
of
REVE BANGED
ZZYYC EL
very popular, and it in only natural bow in frost; there are clever tailored
that the jab, Intely returned to favoar. details on sleeve and collar. An argu- should insinunte is decurative way into
ment in favour of the tailored cont the coat mode in a novel jubat collar, There Will Be Silks And Jatins.
Utilizing this jalot idea, a silk cont
The light weight coat of mid-summer itcludes the tunic in ita vaguries. This will be developed in satin and the silks, tunic is banded with fur, the Band being especially humigaline. And we may look further emphasized by a metal tipped for the softer calours and the brighter edge above it. Note the flat-lying ches--the pasts), Jewel and flower collar, tailored in spits of its rippie: shades. Ther will be exquisite tonal | the guvel cut; aut the light fare at combinations to complement the light the hem. And while it may seem to
weight frocks of summer, and the lighter shades of brown; beige and have nothing whatever to do with the ront Itself, thựre is a smart houtonnière, waffle, and binck and navy as a back- really considered imperative with the ground for bright coloured embroideries
will be seen. amurtly tailored neckline. :
The model of bengaline pictured
A different cullar; alceves different,
DID YOU KNOW-
are so long that they may be worn with Call the grach and effectiveness of the shawl, and their colours are ravishing. THAT the popular flare hai reached
A Useful Foemion For Her Who Week-Enda; Equally Useful For Her Who Cruises.. Around The World.
FASHION STANDS UPON TRIFLES.”
More and more do we find this true and frequently, when the latter is n that fashion stands upon trifles, it is in combination with somethin which in as it should be, since to dia- fragile net. And colours are quite regard them may lead to, aerious mis un delicaté as fabrics and trimmin chef. A bit of the wrong colour, no the latter recently extended to include matter how charming that colour may ostrich for the wisps of filmy stuff thes be in itself, may distract attention from -make evening handkerchiefs. the loveliest ansamble, while a trifle We have pictured a representatio carefully chosen to harmonize may group, for daytime use, more speciali increase its effectiveness. Such ́s trifle":"with sports and tailored apparel, wh le the handkerchief-selected and worn, ther auit or dress.. Taped and way those days, for, its, beánty and decora- | borders, scalloped edges; hand rolle tive ability rather than its practical, and 'hemstitched hems; embroiderif usefulness.
and ‘a. prodigal use of colour chară: terize them. We suspect tunden toward the white kerchief with colou rather than the gay little affair of
At a time when attentionis forusod og width of skirt there is, still, a straightline silhouette, narrow at the hem. It is typified in the pictured cont af charmen with its many rows tucking ranning up and down the centre: back, spaced with horizontal button trimming. Fur bands the bottom of the coat, but the collar is plain and
Lon; a sash, and a moro pronounced is a soft tun, and the fox fur banding is
THAT the newest vogue in the tollored, with matching cuffs. It is tendency to a flure are the fashion gray. Its lines are straight, but there characteristic of this season's modela features of the model in tan velours is a suggestion of a circular, flounce at jewelled pin is the swallow, the tortoise
For many of the newest kerchiefs are that the shoulder line shall be plain, banded with dyed fitch. The collar, the heinline, extanding upward to the or the butterfly? They provide the trimming showing a dawnward trend.
not practical-Just beautiful, and we 1olling from nuck to hem, la embroider waistline. The collar ties and falls like motif for chokora, bracelets and rings
the realm of, lingerie and featured are willing that they should win Exquisite Nuancen Of Colour. od in a butterfly design, and the butter, a scart. Many of the coate from which as well as for hat ornaments and oma-
mental pina.
on the newest stepain chemises? Of Georgette, crepe de chine, lace and net THAT the very newest note in outer doft, transparent silk ninon; tailored, Preto, as generously used as linen In place of the oft-spoken-af "opats motif la repeated, not in ombrai you choose are copies of importations; n: many colours" wo have, this season,
-dorien-büt-In the fabric at the sleeve it-inphsable to buy originan-it one's
for tapet At times the chifon la camillynky smart affaire d conta of many colours-two legical dge And this cost ban is houten purse permite, and there are models of for evening to the chiffon cont herdstirched and embroidered, th
flore of a teliigle-hower to rallave the domestic origin a bined with brocade, and ita favourite "THAL, A CLEVEL. VIINish of the chil reasons for them. The boy bome plain sect of the tailored and the old, shades newly become
trimming is fur or ostrich.
venient cost frocke ili, madu;af, artificial colours, are too lovely be dis- Of the strictly tailored, type, the
THAT the popularity pf Jersey as all knitted in wercolour effect. The regarded; moreover, the vogue of the model an, fint tan material that niz p
fabric is having its effect on the hatchers collar and buttons are of finely costume suit makes a wide choice amartly right at tine in spite of ita A group of fans newly imparted mods This material, stiffened, and knitted zephyr yarn in the solid, cea in both fabric and colour imperative, a circular aldri Note the intricate way are made of the potal of roses. (silk mede into youthful little hats, the testing.colour..... many the most effective of clip that has been taken to achieve the crops, not roal) or the gingle blossoms newest and smartest millinery fashion,THAT the very newest and starteat myriad ensembles are assombled from fuliness and theriooty of the arrange» of the hydrangón,yur" come equally THAT gorgeously "striped scarter of Aunje blouses feature, what is known coat and frock shop, or cost, blouse andment of the godets. The collar edge adaptable flower And the sticks are from glorious Lake Como in Italy-have, ha collar fabot, that can be tied close Labirt shop.
extends, to the ham; the belt Les Farof mother-of-pearl.
Joined the mode of accessories? They or left open? These now blouses come
shoulder
tone,
Fou can make the old cloth in prints and have long sleeves, va
THAT another hat this time of: Zelta kaseta really new dripping out is faced with plaid alike that matches sleeves and puttide in passant the silk scarf? Plaids are extrernes of chiffon, Chirred." întos?" fashionable; and small, tailored boat(And you had better put? collari, are forutsing attention on the pleat of the chizon down, the 2 decorative acarireater degree the front of the frock while hu
about H than ever before..