SATURDAY, MAY 9, 1925.
THE CHINA MAIL.
Let Us Consider the Suit Mode
"DEPENDING
UNUSUAL
COAT FOA
SMARTAL
BY BARBARA
MANSLOW
AMOTOS
مجھے اسے جب سور القران
FLOER
FEATURING THE SHOP? STRICTL
TAILORED
COAT
FUP DIGNIFIES THIS STRAIGHT, LINE SU
COA?
SIMPLIC
#TY. THE
JLZAA
POLL
11
The Eyes of the House..
The housewife who rently, studies decorative values in relatkin ta har own furnishments has no melina- tion to discount the value of her window treatments, appreciating the power they have to brighten or darken; increase or decrensé space; and to add er detract from the beauty and hominess of hor resma. Rooms have been made, und ruums Ive been apollout, by curvaks and over.dmpen, and the wing woman studies her windows, viewing them
nolty problem that must be solved carrectly; and only at the Post of much thought.
Not necessarily at great financial rost, for it is the pulpur. the weight of the fabric and the type of the 7- seurtains themselven that are im- portant. There are sun fuse fabrics That are comparatively inexpensive, if and collates them with silke, laces and tapestries. it in the effect that counts, though he may nol, of course. reply on the egonomy of the ton cheap fabric. ne of the chief faults in draping and curtaining windows is the too heavy material, and many women Inve found it usivisable to keep to what might be termed "summery ways" of iresafing the "eyes" of her, house,
Curtains are to be had all ready for hanging in sheer Marquisettes and hand drawn serbas--the latter far more dainty and desirable, as a rule, than curtains that are elaborately trimmed-fine voiles and dainty Grenadines; and for a certain type of window-like the surgery the bobbineti, Or the curtains may be made at home from yarage goods, at an experso relatively smalk. Daittiness and frestess are most desirable,, "and an instates of this is the kitchen and breakfast nook that is dressed in checked gingham alwayn dainty, always fresh, always inexpensiya,
For overdrapes "there are the eretonnes and chintzeshaped and draged to fit the individual windows -ad, if one must be economical, the very charming artificial silk fabrics in a wide range of colours. and weaves, Shall the sun be allowed to shine in and brighten a dark corner or must it be sab-.. lued in its insistent glare? The exposure of the room-the type of furniture-the size of the room and colour harmonies-all these are purt of the problem.
Graceful, lightweight slippers, made by a Serbian bootmaker, are fashioned of bright coloured Jea- there, ingeniously slashed and braided. They are designed to complentent the between-senso ensemble.
It Is, Without Doubt, the Most-Talked-of
Feature of Fall Fashions-It Is the....
Ensemble Costume At Its Best.
and the ensemble alea has all these attributes, and congenience, as well, for it means the carrellion of one costume with another as well as the correlation of part
While there will be sports suits and strictly tailored sults for those who wish them, the featured suit will be rather turn of dress affair, an
dodels. The litter would be the ease. even if designers said with deßniteness that there would be no bets, for alway there are some who seek to be distine tive by being different. There is a reti enge for fur as a trimming, anal it is Junning little inserts, bindings und landings, and farnishes smart collar and cuffs in many different styles. The sleeves are long and tight, as a rule, the shores of the dress beneath laring either long pr wholly Palswing. Bere is no half way about it. Cecasionally a rape intrudes itself, but they are in the minority; it has been
OUT OF THE PAST
THE
TUNIC BLOUSE
rentuine suit, may have both in the due? | Saxon wezen who were wearing it lung so thoroughly dominated fashion. It is duys, for the postersion of severni |
Some of us at legat, have us for guten the whimsicalities of plever
Mr. Dooley." and the gas of wisdom; that were made to follow the ingreduc tion" by the papers." While it is quite on true with fashion new as i is with world now that one may no! believe all that she reads, it is equally, true, that the wise wonnal meny separate the wheut From the elastf, and profit deserve its appellation of ensture It grity, by the invest that she glans.
will consist of a opiere dates with Par the truly wise woman is not above matching eat or a skit worn with, i reading verfisexuals and comparing Brgy, tunde blouse--and the sante them with the lugia neolyses of the matching coat-the latter, of caitse, of mode that are authoritative presenta the same malerial as the air. It is tions of what fashion has to offer, guld- ! quite presible that the lining of the bug her course by the conclusions that cat may be of the same fabrices the site renches. And when Paris decrees und sponsors, fashion, evities prophesy rast part, of these infinished varietshanges the effect, when the ent is fantul Materials will be, for the and the best known shej persent at tut they will be supple, and so quite removed. If the coutume consiste of nique, ever this most sceptical can be adaptable to the whimeealities of the reasonably sure that she will not so
skirt and tunic. the latter is a very model Herns should be laid on the use wrong in her choice if it is at much of fille and bengaline silks, for this
long that the appearance of height is funfured faskin, Such a fashion is the new faction will have its effect on the
retained, even though there be a con- suit, and while there are sure,lo be fruit mode.
trast in colour or fabric. This beltlessR many modifications of the sunde, difere
silhouette must be watched, however, is one that is rapidly assuming the
for it is becoming only to the slender proportions of a "Vogue"
woman. A suggestion of a waistline, is nut reasonably slight of figure. And correctly placed. is much better if one
mings, recently developed, is another a tendency to round-the-hemline trim. detail that meat be watched, since it. cuts height, if too conspicuous.
The Dress Or The Tunic And Skirt.
Disregarding for the moment the rond part of the outfit, one is given her choice between the straightline dress and the tanie blouse worn over a separate skirt. The latter in the more versatile fashion since it permits a choice of blouses, thus achieving as musy costumes as one possesses tunics, But whether dress, or blouse and skirt, he the choice, fundamentals remain the same, and one is assured of the straight simplicity of line and the same details of neck and hemline. From the aceam. panying photographs it will be seen that the skirt length is abbreviated Paris ys that skirts are growing shorter-necklines both high and low; end the beltless silhouette the favourite. things. Y is not an easy
When the mode prescribes certain achieve
matter to breadth of detail that assures variety, but that is exactly what the designers of the season's fashions have done Really elaborate fabrics are one There has always been something of the regens for the artistic effects fastinating about the matching of two entained, and, trimmings are the most. articles of apparel or of an accesary to Yerantile that they have ever heet a suit of frock, but it is only very Evers new dispatch brings word that recently til elever minds have hit some designer has launched" a new up the klen of making this note of trimming, or an unusual way of apply entity"whether it be fabric. irim- ing a old and familiar bit of decorn. ming or colour-the basis of the entire tion, and the result is a most gnifying custume, And never before has this, width of choice. If it be true that the costume or ensemble" idcu been the short skipt has become a little shorter, fundament of the entire theme of tie it is equally true that it hun fashion as it seems to be th-day. And it is known, igically enough, as the ensemble costume. When as iden has. smartness and charm, aru at the same time is practical from the point of view of economy, it ly assured of popularity,
The Suit We Have Always With Us.
There have beon mang ramifications of the suit mode in the past few years; and the ging fashions of one cen- tury have given place to fashions that will, no doubt, be just as amusing n contary hence, although it is certainly true that there are not the radical changes in the silhouette, from season to season, that there used to be. The fulled skirt, quite wide at the bottom; the short contacmetimes with sleeves of the leg-o-mutton type; and the normal waistline would result in nothing but ridicule, were they to make their seurager in a season when the long. tight slegre, the long coat and the slender fine silhouette were fashion, but they history, and a mode to be really acceptable, must have an ancestry of some sort, thisce days, For history teaches and history simplifie
long time since a mura practical
the slip or skirt would really be in the blouse fashion has been launched. for the 1. Who says it is a new fashion, the portions of a vogue with the sudden woman who needs a wrape but craves a time. It may be to many, but thoroughness that has characterized its combination, and so it is that
really a legacy to us from the latest reappearance, and never has it departments are looking ahead to busy A Fashion That Makes For Height.
not only a part of the blouse mode, it tunics will mean several costumes, The long coat, that reaches aimast before the Normans e une, nearly a
if one's single skirt or slip is
the knee is a becoming garment, for to the hemline, Br at least well below
is the most prominent feature in. the Chuusand years ago, a lency for which
neutral in its tone. Ong may have a
it makes for height, and there is
we should he most devatly thankful,rock minde, and it is the very urda-
tunte that, matehes the slip; another selarning and alan ble has it tion of the ensemble costume that in
that contrasts in colour; a third in nothing about the dress burenta that proven to be. We have had it before, the outstanding feature in fashion
plaid that makes use of the same shade In general it is known as the tunic it is really only a revisal of other
as the slip, and yet another with rarivals, adapter each time
silhouette and its slenderizing elegance it returns
embroideries, liking skirt to tunic by to the mode of which it is'a
But dominates the mode almost to the art. nover has it assumed the de inite pro exclusion of every other possible line. fabric or embroidery, either one. It is The tunic Balf varies in length, reach quite useless to garakter a suit of skirt ing the hips or the very hem, in plain and cont without visualizing the possi-, of line or flares a bis, and hints, bilities of the blouses that may com- variously, of China, Raasia and France. plement it and change it into a complete Just how popular this idea has become costume..
Because of its general becomingness, it shown when an evening fruck, adopta it. for many of the leveliest formal length is the prevailing characteristic of the tunic. It really should reach gowns are, in terms of simplicity, a separate skirt and blouse, the former below the knee, and it will be even beautifully decorated, the latter quite amarter if it reaches almost to the plain of line and fabric. Beading holds edge of the hem... in general, the its place in the mode, and, one the straight. silhouette in more becoming best-liked ideas seems to be a lip of than the flared ona, but at times, the plain material used as a foundation for fares are so sahile that they do not, an elaborately beaded tunic, uncompro-appreciably, det.act from the general nisingly plain of line,
the long coat and dress, or the coat, Foar of the pictured models feature akirt and tunic. The latter iden s expressed in a woollen fabric that has
decided sheen, and recognizes the value of fur in a decided contrast. The distinguishing an otherwise plain coat collar is large and the cuffs unique.
trimming, the latter not so striking that links elf to the tunic by the that it will elash with any other tunte that may be chosen for yariation. You will note that the same braid is ased to edge bam of the fabric of the. garment. A one piece dress, the same fabric us the coat, is noticeable for its high collar, its vestce, and the snart ball buttona that trim the latter, Both for,utid embroidery edge the hemline, and cuff the straight line coat, that has a'collar of the fur.
A tunic dress, very straight of line, ures erupe de chine in contrast to the effect and iner the cont wool material, and it makes the tunie the pucket and outlines the sleeves fashionably wide at the wrist-and the Fur edges
beenme a little wider, tirugh great thal appearance of height le aided by stand-up collar. It should be noted widt is not desirable.
brim that so smartly complements the Lace Is Given A Prominent Place In the square crowned hat with narrow costume. Severul unusual features are to be seen on the suit that seems id
Conts are long, so long that it is quite possible to use the suit coat na separate wrap, and they are, 'sa a rule, beltless, although there are, soine belted
THE FAN-ITS INSPIRATION.
prefer the more striking sports fabric
a modest plaid weave to, the more conservative materials. Machine em broidery trims the crope de chine tunle and 'the coat has buth belt and novelty Thousands of
sleeve, as well as a fur banding on the
The Blouse Mods Because Of Its Never Failing Charm.
tuni
com). slip.
und c.
designe bination
gette u. even in a
to the en everything.
appearance of slenderness: There is a choice between belts and the beltless line, but the latter is the amarter, if one finds it becoming. Many do not and
Stressing The Favourite Black And White Combination; The Beltlens Silhouette And New Neck Line.
under the flounce, and a wee collar of the white. The shoulder is kimono and The neckline is, of course, varied, there is a smart little tle belt, in the but the V-neck in smart, especially back, if you please. when trimmed with tiny revers
it should be, a question in one's mind- until the zen or the no of the matter is proven.
There are marvellous possibilities in hat seeras.to be a tendency to luxuri- fabrles of the braate kind, for the e of decorative, materiul will ine happily with a plain skirt or A very great many printed silke "opes are being shown, and one r has made use of prints in com- with pleated chiffon or Geor. dgrakirts-one's way leads, discussion of a separate mode, Kemble idea that is ruling A smurt costume results of Georgette or of crepe do foundation for a tunic bric tucked horizontally-
tunics, and trimmings range from the end. Only a slight fallness at the ermits or up and down, appliques and embroideries through to hips marks, the joining of blouse to vbe. Plain bands serve
bandings of the material of which the band in the model pictured, a very dine buttons covered
tunic is made. Buttons, bendinga and smart model indeed, that has its novelty ial or in some fancy braiding are all popular, and at times fabric amartened appreciably by the
les are ribbon banded
one meets a model that has no trimming band of lace Insertion down the fronts broidered in bands-
but the fabric. Itself. Such a tunic is the frilla bt Val. at neckline and' sleeve endleak,
pictured, although it really make use sugu; and the whimsical xasuttu on the: been laid down for of two fabrics, or, more specifically, waist band. It would seem
mode "Straight, two colours, black and white, Extremely fashion interest is bound to centre OL "short" apply-clever this lace affair, with its V-neck the blouse: Its coming season, for course. Now if that shows satin bound ravers of the already the tunic is an accepted fashion, long, it is quito material; unduraleeves that have the fact in the costume, and the tunic in, in how negligible appearance of cuffs; white lace set in its original form, a blouse.
laceWhorever there is a demand, there'; or the fabric; there are square necks; one will find supply. That la the raison and the round and hutoa line have etre of the hip-length blouse, which their following. Georgette, crepa, de, is not nearly as new or us smart as the chine, satin, the newer ribbed silks and tunic. Thene blouses are nearly all velvet, as well many novelty gathered into a hip band, though soma materiais are featured in the smurteet models maintain their straightness to
from a slip chine, usala of the same EL If one's figure as the casu mu as a backgroun with the mater design. Plain tuk and others are em the possibilities ar Three rules have the fall and winter. short and slender," t
ing to skirt length, of the tunic is very, very! possible to figure out,
DID YOU KNOW—'
v flounces tordenes
akicts.
Prominent in history, and levoted fi-making industry. these many years to the fine art of artists, ton, contributed their work, for collar. coquetry, the fan has found.a perman-
THAT a new shade of purple-they bottom, this faze achieved by ent place in the evening ansenible. It chooses a bit of liée or gauze, a gor-tailored typo really a between-seaton millinery horizont
the painted fan was. vogue. Ono A short-coated-spit of the more call Bishop has appeared on the und godels? If there is a contributes grace and a flash of colourous plume.or two or three with little affair tavaly its start aimpurity to and us, and appears as most azotle--THAT there are many new i It has red in it either way it is toward shorter, 10. formalrattireraangenaain-its-thought that the accessory atdelt, father, recommend it, but it shows a trend colour, quite unusually rare, beauty. One finds that the story of its more. utilitarian, perhaps than in the awAY origin dates back to the legends of old reign of a Louie, or the brilliantly con tailleur. It is distinctly a two-pinch hosiery shades in the nuances of belge.
new adaptations of 'old' fura». from the O'Rossen type of THAT Paris is apomoring two new
RENAT fall" showingu 1. Gaupe; and silve China, two, perhaps three thousand. ceived creation of to-day, is apart of affair and with it one might wear; They are called "Hogga" and "Ecaille, muskrat
the nowest shades, of the fan yeam B. C. But was during the reign history. It is mentioned in the stories either a dark or light-coloured blouse.
and the Scriptures, Losty for the time, ita erous numbers, but they will not be asi historical and legendary value, but generally popular as theoremble THAT the skirts of the newest, a fat nap, Fashion as definitely ca
their names.
cond fabrics increasingly great its power in the costume suft of mach dharm And many smartest models fare slightly at the
fall are smooth, closely-woven and has i history of fashion
off the Beavy pile, materials that have bottom, this flare slightly at the beer vögué for several sonsÖNK"
of Louis Fifteenth-how often must, the fof Roms, of Gresco and of India, and in Suits of this type" will; be'idenî In key and one, wonders where originators get f: Pimulate sablé v Lure" are dy
chronicler of fashions go back to that brillant period that it was an essential to the costume, and during that time ousand of craftaten worked at the
12/62,
1
BEAUTY A THOUGHT OR TWO.
that
Two évila boset all womankind in the to the frequency with which hair should desire to posscas lovely hair and keep bo shampoood and the basis of the soup) it so the dry and the oily scalp. For liquid or powder that one used in
procen: What agres-with-one-scal are bath there are curative, onuments and doc pot agree with others, and const liar lotions that will rectify the condition, just how the danger of the 300 fraque
to whatever it may be, but every woman, hampoo, the result of the case
to soak the advice of a hair specialist at which the bobbed head rasy, be "was or whether her locks be short or long, and the effect it has in the perman
should give bar hair every attentions wave, and the fluff are even though there seems no present may end 112 become a permanen need of it the precaution who nowki: or, a too elly scalp, that not the days to come. It is not a bad idea time, but money, to overcome.