ti
14
THE CHINA MAIL.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 1 1925.
INTERPRETING the PALM BEACH MODE
#yorgy RACEPISS, DISTINGUISH
چ کر کہ جو کہ کے پینے سے ہے درد در تیم بربر جد
Far More Accurate Than the Average Prediction Are the Prophecies of Fashion-The Southern Mode a Mode of the Future.
Men may seat at Fashion--which they doy' laugh at the place is occupiestin à woman's life which it does; at its whimsicalities-which we freely admit; but Fashion pursues the ven tenor of her way quite unperturbed, for she is Power and she knows and cleries in . Recerit foreign news dispatches have told of an appeal by eminent designers. of the most exclusive modes for prutee tion against what they are pleased to
there are days in July and August when, we of the North wear soils and coats with comfort. Kasha cloth, grown to
be a favourite, is also featured in this new, shade, and it is bound to be the background for all sorts of original trimmings, especially in the embroidery It is mure to be and applique field. more satisfatory for this purpose than any other colour-or while.
Concerning Fundamentals Of Line,
call "uation pirates," the clever fulk We are most interested, at this, parti who come to their advance showings;cular time, in the fundnaientals of line, remain Yo absorb the details; and gomther than those of fabric or colour. They call the for we may be happily ahend-of-the- Rway to ropy them.
winter. There seems to be a difference of opinion concerning the silhouette- which may be rightly termed the fonda- mental of all fundamentals-and when ene authority predicts a return to the straightest sort of a silhouette, and another designer, equally authoritative, makes much of the Aure-whu are we to settle the matter? Better, by far, to accent the variety that the two afford, and wear the moul becoming line. Skirts will remain short, on that they all agree; there will be high collars-ang la inclined to question their warm wenther popularity-and there will be some long When the much discussed sleeves. flare exists it will be through the medium of tunics, slashed skirts, flounces or ruffles.
models that result furgeries, and mode if we apply them to our frocks of really have just cause for complaint, sined their creative genius is quite use less, so far as exclusiveness is concern ed, when a "spy" from another house can duplicate even their most cherishel and original madel, or a wholesale house en turn out bundreds of replicas of it, for sale in. the ready-to-wear shops. While almost anyone will admit that.n jury-sitting in judgment on some such offender-would have no small amount of difficulty in deciding, just whht rights or "copy rights" a designer might have. one fact is pyen-there must be some- thing very fascinating, very profitable, very importart about Fashion that a man or woman will turn pirate for her Fake. And just now she is offering proofs conclusive that this is so, for she is at her best, having stabilized the styles of winter-insofar as any mode can be stabilized--and is busy inter preting to her admirers the "Palm Bench Mode" the crystal in which the interested siny-at-home may gaze and see the fasklons of the coming spring and summer in the North.
A Dictionary Of Colours, Lines And
Any mode, settled or otherwise, is made up of vogues. Many that appear at the beginning of the season are doomed to an early disappearance, but they serve as fads," and are of passing fashion interest. So far, in the Southern season, there have been revivals; hold- overs, from a past season; and some few new
certain things all of a picturesque news "value. The vogues What are they wearing in the South-for the ensemble sait, for the tunic and land? It is something of a puzzle, but for chin dance frocks are hold-overs, we have become adepts at puzzles, these ord we would miss them, were they to dnys, whether they be cross-word or go. The vogue for, appliques and Jushion puzzles. But we must have a embroideries belongs in the hold-over dictionary, a book of synonyms, a book clans, but the vogue for prints, for of history and a geography, if we are pastel colours, for white and for to solve other kind, for no new mode cretonne and chintz are revivals-they
Fabrics.
کرین میں جائیں
BY CHRBAR
JANEZ FEDER
مقلدار
LOERIES"
THE BOLD CHARM OF 207:
کو تین سو سکے کیوں
more dressy fabrics, it is not complete in itself, but must have coat or cape, hat, shoes and all the smart accessories that go to make up a complete costume. For practical purposen-when it will be worn over a wet snit, there is no more satisfactory fabric for coat or suit than rubberized sill. The suit itself may be knitted, but the rest of the ensemble- linked by colour to the suit-will be of the rubberized, fabric. Beach costumes, that never feel, though they see, the water, bave a wider range, and may be very elaborate. The ombre idea is carried out in some; harmonious tones in others; and there are combinations of colours..
The shades of blue, of green and of purple are well-liked for beach costumes and the printed silks, especially those
in leopard colourings, show ap eTee- tively. The very nowest bathing caps ape the pointed crown that is so popular in mlinery and has droll little pam- pon on the top and a demure roli brim. The bandanna and Gymay's kerchief have mado their appearance; there are hats -reminiscent of the Spanish saller and there are belts and vanities.
DID YOU KNOW-
THAT when all-over embroideries id leopard design make dresses and coats, the garments are smartened by bind- ings of brown kid? A hat to match makes an ensemble with frock er cont. THAT the mode of the ombre bracelet has followed the mode of ambre fabrics? Three roll bracelota-one green, one white, one rose gold create the ombre effecti
THAT fashionable women in London tawn are having their hair dyed white for the softening effect it has on the complexion? The beauty of snow-white hair is undeniable, and the younger the face, the lovelier the effect.
THAT the Junior has taken to the jumper dress, a two-piece affair that is not only amort but convenient? And that velveteen is the fabric that has attained prominence in these clever little frocks ?
THAT separate skirts, designed for Northern resort wear, show a decided fondness for the comfort of pleats? The skirt may be all of pleats; have groups.at the aldes or front; or depend from a yoke.
THE NEW COTTONS.
Do you remember back to the days when cottons" wore calicos, chambraya and ginghams ? When women wore cotton for every day and considered silk the "dress-up fabric? What would those women of other days have thought ot a designer who suggested a cotten coat or a ceston sult? Troly other days other ways in fabrles as well as in fashions-arid customs. The callces of other days have given place to the prints of English. weave and the abun |ning India prints, both to be fentured na n part of the cotton mode for sum- mer. Silks have been counterfeited in cotton, and there is no moro antiafactory warm weather fabric than voile, who- ther it be English, Fropch or domestic.. "Practically the only advantage of thá several sources, in the variety-it afforda the one who is making the selection. Singe it is to be a season of prints there
will be lovely printed voile, just ne there. ars printed chiffons and Goorguttes. Voile is really a cotton- Georgette.
Se important has cotton come to be in the scheme of things that the very foremast designers interest themselves noterly in their use but in their weaves. Some of the novelty cottons are blister, ed, with designs in reliet against the blistered background. Another novelty cotton in woven in squares, and the variety of this type of cotton fabric la very wide. At times use is made of silk, even velvet, in combination with cotton, producing novel effects that are very new. Artificial sill seems the congeeting link between cotton and silk, and is used in the fancy cotton weaves, Many of these new "cottonia" are quite as beautiful and even more expensive 1 than silks, and are used for routs and capes and suits as well as for frocks. At times a novelty cottdh makes tunic designed for wear with a; crepo skirt or slip, and they seeth to hold a prominent place in the coming fashions...
THE FINE POINTS OF HOME OUTFITTING
Experience teacles, us just as surely brass candlesticks of true. Colonial about things pertaining to our ward- design. Or if one prefers the Italian robes and our homes as it does about influence, there are treasures in hand- life, but it proves a costly teacher many wrought iron and pottery for the carry- times. We learn what not to buy,ing out of that influence. having once bought wrongly; we learn what not to wear having chosen once unwisely; and each buying time we proat by the mistakes that we have made. And we have learned that when a choice of frock, spit or coat has been wisely made that the wrong accessories muy completely discount the apparent wixstom of the choice, changing the 248uiting ensemble into something very ordinary. And it is the stime in the outfitting of the home, where details of ornamentation occupy the same relative position to the whole that accessories occupy in the ensemble costume Furni-
correctly chosen and grouped; hangings and rugs harmonious-the one with the other and both with the form ture; these are but the frock for the room-the accessories romain to be chosen. A charming suite for the dining room; a velvety rug; curtains and over- drapes-there yet remains the linen; the glass and china; the silver The task is well begun, and yet less than half done
41
Every piece of furniture and every ornamental piece should inereas the livableness of the room it adorna-that is why, perhaps the heavy matching pieces have been discarded. The trea sures of famous craftsmen of the old guilds are faithfully duplicated they can hardly he called copies-and the pieces are not only adopted, but adapted to a modern sting and the modern ways of living. But too much of hedvi- ness, even when that heaviness le price- less, is taboo, these days, and if one happens to have inherited genuine antiques, or to have acquired too many sombre pieces, the solution is a single piece of lacquer-brilliantly red offectively placed and ornamental bita" of glass or pottery, oqually effectively placed. And it is well to say, in passing that the housewife who may select her own furniture is wisest when she makes use of reproductions that are dono in the Sheraton, Chippendale, Queen Anne or Colonial manner-any one of the types that have become synonymous with'art in furniture.
We may learn much, yet we are A careful study of household decorn-
indined to leam, too little from the tion has resulted in many changes and
the Eastern decorative genius of we welcome the fashion in furniture peoples. The Japanese have a happy custom of changing their decorations that permits the use of individual
from time to time, injecting a new note pieces, incidental tables and the like; Into the home, and thus relieving the dictate that makes matched sets no
monotony of surroundings. While the American woman may change the longer imperative; and the fine feeling
puition of her furniture, or renew for decorative bits of pottery and china curtains and hangings, sha sets too the not too much, but just enough. tile value on mirrors; on pottery; on is of one century or period; of a single are quite likely to come back with the-
The same room may hold something decorative panels. Quite as bad as too little, is too much of anything, country; or of exactly the same fabrics, spring. There is a really new type of
Italian; something Spanish; something especially the vases, bowls and jars that lines and colours timt any other one two-piece_frock-the creation of an
bold our flowers and servo as decors- season has featured, although it will eminent French designer; the same
embroideries. It shows another varin, although there is more of a contract
THAT knitted fringe has been added that breathes the spirit of the Far East)
tions when flowers are not to be had not prove difficult to find many of the clever originator is responsible for a
to the achievements of knitting and that same roem may be artistic in
A single bowl on a polished table may newest detalis listed under other and balbriggan jumaper sports costume; and tion of the patron, and features the between the shades. The result of the machines and to the already large group its hominess. On the other hand abs charming, but it loses its charm wher scart, again. Plaids and checks and combination of colour with embroideries of fringes. They are intercaling, not living room that is Early American in there is a "clutter" of objects about it more familier rames in a book of the beach pajarna surit is new. fashion aynonyme. It is quite beyond
Exemplifying the vogue for the stripes are bidding for favour against is unusual, striking a note of luxury,
its feeling may keep to the letter as Aad it in a clever idea to change one's the power of any designer or group of ensemble suit, for the tunic and for dots, so we are assured variety.
From the pictured models we may only in themselves, but as a part of the
pieces of bric-a-brac-which should be designers to be original all the time, white, wo have the model in a novelty It is quite safe to say that there is draw certain conclusions as to the Palm THAT the rart new colours in the well as the spirit, evincing that spirit
chosen with an eye to their general and much that passes for originality is fabric combined with plain, the tunic of no single trimming more effective than Beach mode, which they interpret. Rich well-loved felt hats of the hour are
in even the incidental table, ple-cruat harmoniousness, from room to room merely a resurrection from another the former and the coat, also; the skirt ombroideries, unless it be appliques, and colours, delightful fabrics, distinctive Indian orange, Cuatilian red, water-
A wall period or a loan to us, forced perhaps, and bandings of the plain material. no decorative effect more distinguish trimmings, a combination at the outset melon, French gray, thistlebloom and typer in the tea china-the Oriental from another people.
vogue for blistered effects |ing than appliques, (There is
be, that it is hard to beat. Short skirta kasha? There are black faits and white unless
birds and black-eyed Susans of the in Tubrios. The effect of this costume embroideries! Very clever the little both short and long sleeves; a very fults and some that feature the ombre familiar Wedgewood; in the polished has a most unusdal setting, for we are ensemble is that of amplialty Louched model that makes use of Indian' general use of the scarf and the viewing it from a world of frost and with luxury, fur achieving the latter embroideries on the panel, simulating plastron; these are interesting details. colourings. snow, and cled, as we are, in heavy fare end. The all-white costame is always pocket; on the revers and militaryThere is, if you will but study the and fabrics, it is very like a glimpse of a feature of the summer season, and collar; on the sleeve bands and the vest models and prove it, a trend away from promist kundnd it really is! after winter fabrics and fara, it seems effect. The undersleeves are of the round and the bateau 'neckline and Snuggled down in the collar of our frennially new. Thore is nothing Georgette in the darker shade of the toward the V-shaped neck; and there Warmest cont we look critically-and, leveller or so wholly imbued with charm, embroideries. Its designer calls it a are collars, too, which is a happy emen, perhaps a bit wistfully at the light-but white is expensive, oven when it "walking frock, and it is surely a for the untrimmed neckline in nover Bome fabrics; colours dainty or brilliant fabric is not, for its spotlessness is its temptation to its owner to let, all the generally becoming. We naturally
s their purpose may be; and all the beauty, and to keep it spotless is a
world see, and ndmire. More expect a mode of picturesqueness to Innitesimal details that go to make up costly business.
embroideries-this time. Russian in 'arrive with the summer, and insofar What is, to us, future mptle. But it
their inspiration, trim a fannel frock as it is possible to interpret the moda, elsewhere, mode of reality, for it. Synonymous with de flowers that that makes use of three tones of a as displayed in the South, we are not to is being wern right now in the summer bloom in the spring are the prints that colour, somewhat in the ombre fashion, he disappointed in our expectations. Southland. And wo ura seeing, as we bloom with them, for they are both window-shop, avery-grent, dent of colourful and both sure to appear. And white; the pastel ahndus; and the strang the prints that the fabyle makers have tanen "that lose something of their provided for us are gayer- und morg strength against the buckground that brilliant than they have ever been, and nature provides. White, wo expect; the they deserve the popularity they are balder colours are synonymous with enjoying The scarf frock pictured sports
· clothes; " and onefashion makes use of a,brocaded crope în print cality and undeniable smartness, the Idling the hour away on the sanda, authority has recently issued the ediet uffect, and while the scarf may baʻa entomble, costume pursues its interest. One will no longer any "I have to have Pastel colours in everytting," Kumiller detall the shirt-bosom effect is ing way, wholly impervious to newer a new bathing suit, this year," but will The really new nato the colour not, and is, therefore, noteworthy. It modes and less deserving detaila of spenk quite casually of the bathing fuld the vogus for what is known as is 'n feature of many of the newest and fashion. It has become an integral part ensemble that is now the correct attire. "natural" really, the neutral shade of smartast frocks. The skirt, as you will of the daytime and the evening mode, for the beach. From the hat-thero are camel's hair, and it has resulted in a see, is brief, and is likely to prove a reaching, by direct, route, the sports bathing hats, this season to the shoes twilled variety of this intter fabric. If anaye to the unwary, for the short and mode, and bringing with it all the there will be harmony of colour, and the presence of twills seems out of the plump woman pay not wear it socamulated charm of its progress, correlation of fabrics and trimmings.. -place in “yummer" Zashions, you will becomingly. Another use of a printed |And quite the most Wistinctive of all the It does not matter whether the suit do well to remember that there are allk-dota, too, are vogue-is seen in sports ensembles, because apparel for bo of the knitted variety for ; real days, even in the "Bunny South when the white frock that combines with wear at the bathin hour has always sxercise in the water, or be made of
The Palm Bench mode, as we see it,
Prints Insist On Recognition.
sapSCARA GORD
-THE BEACH ENSEMBLE.
Propelled by its convenience, practi- dosigned for wear in the water or for
knitwear mode.
.
in the interests of variety panel, quite easily made at home, will fend a note of differentness and brighten a bit of dull or empty wall space.