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THE CHINA MAIL.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 1925.
THE NEWEST COATS OF WINTER
BY BARCHA
WINSLOW.
for
„PHOTOS
BY JOLL
SILKS AND SATINS.
Two separate vogues in fabrics have been definitely established-the one for ribbed silks, "the other for antin, especially the crepe weaves of the intter. These materials are used for frocks, conta and suits, and play an 'enormous part in the ensemble costume, whatever its makeup may be. There seems to be no choice between the one- piece frock and the tunic blouse, wora over a separate skirt or a costume slip, the blouse-swirt-alip combination usually a part of an ensemble costume.
Paris started the vogue for ribbod stiks, and the collection includes falilo, atlainan, bengaline and poplin, all four appropriate to the new iden 'of' eleganda or to the boyish aimplicity that holds over from last seasor If Fifth Avenue was a little behla Paris in nerepting the new fabrics, . was a hesitation of independence Puther than a doubt af their smartness. And now Fifth Avenue affers gowns of bengaline effectively trimmed with fur-badger a favourite: scarf gowns of sating and fracks that combine crepe satin with one of the ribbed silks,
For the tailored modey there are models of benguline in rout style, the edges bound with a contrasting colour; and slim line frocks of faille and crepe salin that bespeak the tailored influence. There will be either a fruck or a tunic, certainly, of a ribbed silk or of satin in every amart fall wardrobe..
A Generous Use of Rich
Furs and Fabrics Makes the Mode a Luxurious One-There is An Increasing Use of the Tunic Idea.
For the winter wardrobe, a cost is the first need of n season and one of the most important garments in the wardrobe. This is the result of the vague of the one-piece dress, and since the tendency is toward the ensemble contume the entit takes on an importance EYCH greater than in fornfer sensons. Before one makes a final choice in the matter fn muter garment that is to be so conspicuous part of the wardrobe, there are an amazingly large number of things to take into Ponsideration, if one is to finally acquire the most prac tien, most useful, and at the same time most beautiful wrap for her immediate purpose. There are not so many changes, nt first glance, but a close study reveals so very many subtle differences that she is led to believe thal ennt fashions are very different from those of other seasons.
The New And Different Fabrics Aad Colours.
The winter season brings with it radically different fabrics and many rich, new colour tones for those who du not ineline in the staple navy blue or binck. The newest materials have what is known us a "enther" finish, the general appearance being that of suede. and while satin finished fabrics are, in general, vogue, the lustrelesà lehther finished materials are first choice for couts. There are kusha cloths with, a velour Anish and voleurs, as well; there are many novelty fabrics, plaids especially in favour; and of late there have been broadcloths- slim silhouette makes then most desirable. Silk-more especially the ribbed weavea-are being Used warmth "provided by linings of wool or by interlinings. Linings have taken on unusual importance and kusha cloth-sometimen in plaids-duveyn, Batin and the familiar crepes re approved.
DOVELT
FABRIC COMBINATO
FUR
THE JUSTLE CABLE OF
SMART ORIGINATION
popular rimming farse" The far-lined cont has appeared again, but it is not bulky as of yore, the demand for slunderness resulting in the change. These couts make use of the novelty materials and tweeds, as well as the newly popular broadcloth, and they have linings of leopard, elvet or nutrius There is, as always, a use for beaver and aquirrel in the mode, the latter dyed to the kolinsky, beige and Viatka #hud
Some of the models are double, the mode of the moment, appears in breasted; others are wrap-around with couts, sometimes with a fur border at the site closing; and some of the the bottom of the coat and the top most unusual and radically different falling over it, again it is simulated by novelties have a side closing under a narrow bands of fur or other trimming. jubot effort. The inside vest is a well- Many New Ideas Are Illustrated. liked innovation, and there are both The tendency to fullness at the bottom single und double large revers.
is well illustrated in a model of stripped There is a wide variety in both fabric that combines alternate stripes sleaves and collars, the former either of corded bigh sheen silk with rows reglan or normal at the shoulder. The of tufted mohair in corduroy effect. familiar type that begins to flare at the There is real width at the hemline and elbow and is wide at the wrist has n no trimming is considered necessary representation, and the close sleeve that ¦ except the cuffs and collar of beaver
Lines Are, Primarily, Slender. The fundamental lines of the cont silhouette are, like those of suits, and frucks, generally slender, although there in "decided inclination on the increase, it seems, to the flure at the bottom, this flare achieved by inset godets and virgular cuts. Coata are shorter and have what is termed an upward movement, sometimes enam phasized by corners rounded in front. The appearance. is sometimes achieved"; by pointed inserts of fur or a treat in view of the popularity of the scarf ment kin to it.
wearer.
ripples at the wrist is featured. A far. The side closing has no fastening really row iden is the "barre" sleeve, but "must be held together by the that has a put below the elbow, sorae-
Another novelty fabric em- times with a hand of for above and † ploys fur to attain the tunic effect that below. 31any of the collars are small, is sayfashionable. It will be noted that chaker type, but that there, is wide the general appearance is of an under- choice is proven by the models that have | skirt banded with fur and an overdreas, Tuxedo collars reaching to the hem of also banded with fur, the trimming run- the cont, arid there are both shawi and ning up the sides of the tunic, A choker scarf collars--the latter to be exported collar and cuffs complete the model, and a button securely fastens the straight detail everywhere in fashion. The tunie, ling side closing.
Acknowledging Our
Debt to Lace
Once we have become accustomed to combination, and, some of the very a thing we are more than likely to smartest tunics employ this material. accept it as our due, wholly forgetting A clever and attractive idea is the upc our debt to its Beauty, its practicality, of linee for the slip that appears beneath Ils comfort, as the case may be. This a tunic of chiffon, Georgette, crepe or is, to a very great extent, the situation even velvet, sind it is used for appliques. where lace in concerned, for we use t for trimmings, for sleeves. Black luce a malliplicity of ways-in our over white is an interesting use of the fashions and in our house furnishings fabric and a splendid way to work out --and it would make a very appreciable the black and white combination that difference to us were it to be eliminated. is always new, always effective. Lacs This bit of theory results from the
is used on the amart straight line frocks tremendous, importance that lace plays of all, satin and even wool, and frills in the fashions of the moment, and of Vul may edge plinels of another kind brings us to a contemplation, of ta of Ines. There is nothing that dignifies many uses; its real beauty; its practi- the simple frock like a bit of Ince cality, seemingly irreconcilable to ita ingeniously applied. fragility.
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There are many new colours, along them certain gorgeous upper and mahogany shades that will, it is pro phesied be extremely popular, especi ally with the woman who can have a new coat every season. The greens are known as artichoka, Commack, Lebanon, Celadon and shatter; the most featured browns are Corona, cinnabar, enddie and penny; and the reds are cranberry and ox-blood. It will be evident to all We shall, then, first acknowledge our that coloure so varied will result in debt to it as a factor in the mades of many really beautiful models, especially the moment, for it is one of the more in vithw of the fact that there are many important notes in the sensos'a nowe new fure and many new shades of old It is used both as a trimming and a fars to provide a trimming of beauty fabric, and there is hardly a department and contrast. Növer were there such of dress that does not make use of it. furn, and one can but wonder if the Frocks, lingerie, boudoir apparel, animal that grew them would recognize hosiery, millinery-they are in debt to their colour and their texture, for that, and if the debt is reckoned in pro dyning and shearing of fure has become * fne art.
Designers are certainly prodigal with this trimming, for they make use of the preferred akina in many interesting ways. Godots and flounces are favourite application; narrow banda and wide bands are used; and many coats are edged all the way round with for.. Mink of all sorts: fox and "baby" fox; Leopard, chipmunk, and seal; and dyed Atch, in the fisher and sable shades are
purtion to ite-levoliness-iber it is a heavy debt, indood. Primarily it is a fabric for dresses of the formal sort and a trimming for models designed for afternoon or semi-formal wear. There fa a. very generál uso of black and white laco, alone and in combination; dyed incos-many of them for trimming pur poses, and the metal Bacon that are no gorgeous when used in formal wear
More than one kind of lace or more than one colour of lace may be used in
It is a favourite trimming for the dress frocks of the smal girl; it makes beautiful the frothy bita of allk and find linen that we call "lingerie." and it is "one of the most approved fabrics for the dininty boudoir gowns that are fashion. Dress bats find it a luxurious trimming, and the metal laces, in combination with fura, usually form a featured part of the millinery mode for winter. Hosiery of the most expensive aort uses it for appliques and ToUNNEN OF IMOLAT IDeo are ased on the coat linings of the most elaborate raps.. Casually review your wardrobe, and admit your debt! ma "It Is not such a far cry from fashions in household furnishments and accessorios, and in the latter, again, we And uses for lace. To be sure/wa-may. not all possess, the expensive linens that, feature handmade, lacas, but there will. be a treasured plech or two,, and the expert needle woman will find many
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A coat of leather Anished fabric electa to trim itself, with the exception of the small fur collar, which makes the neces Hary touch of contrast to the materials. The trimming consists of loops of the goods, sut an in irregular rows, tour deep, each block headed by a fuishing
иден for it. There is much to be said in behalf of the gift that has been carefully thought out and as caro- fully made. If the gift that is to be given must needs be mori practical, Then there are the really lovely things made of silk and metal lace-the daintily practical things that are assured of a delighted welcome.
The bit of embroidery is the loveller for an edge of lace; it plays a part in the making of the lamp shade that would be much too expensive to buy:
FABRIC
touch of silk embroidery; also in block effect. The side closing is invisible. Rather more complicated, the fourth model, that makes ́use of a fold of the material at the bottom instead of a band of the fur, and matches this band or fold on the sleeves. A narrow bind- ing of fur edges the coat, and bands of equal width trim the sleeves. It will be noticed that there is a stripe of a
deeger colour waide the fur binding. A really different coat, its differentness most attractive and acceptable.
Outlining briefly, then, the, coats of the coming season will prefer leather finished fabrica, although there will be satin finishes, novelty cloths, brondeloths and silka. Furs will be lavishly used as a trimming, Caloura will be rich, with a deal of black and navy blue. Lines will be slender with a tendency to flares at the bottom, belts will be missing, and length will be shortened. Tunics will be simulated; collars will be choker, scarf, shawl or Tuxedo; and Bleeves will fare below the elbow or at
AT MAY BE OPORHET
DID YOU KNOW—
THAT the Redingotan already approved fashion for fall and winter- i particulariy becoming to the full- figured woman? It may open over 'a Hlip of andther colour and material.
THAT the gardenia or cimalis trim- ming for hats is again being featured It appears on hats of fun felt and the crown is, usually, high and square.,, The colour of the felt is black.
THAT plaided fura--made of differ ent pelts-ure the latest fur-fashion, They follow, logically, the vogue for plaided felts and wools.
THAT the gate-top, key-lock hand- bag is the newest accessory to the tailleur? It is to be had in either sik or leather and in many different shades. THAT buttons will appear already are appearing on everything this fall -frocks, quits, blouses and wrapat. They are of every conceivable colour, fabric and material,
THAT Paris decreos black with a touch of colour in footwear? A new step-in pump has an elastic gore con- vealed by a pert cocarde and a cut-ont border lined with colour.. "
FINE FABRICS
OF THE MODE
Fabrics are the foundation of the the mode.
Tassels, beadinge, fine mode, and on their charm is built the embroideries, fringes, chenille oma- whole structure of fashion. They ments and coloured kid all add their change with the season, and their bounty and individuality to the fabrics 'influence has much to do with the man- they trim, and tinselled threads, in both ner and the making of a vogue. Every embroidery and braids are effective. change in styles depends for its supeess There is no more really decorative trim- on the new weaves, the new colours ming than applique, and the pictured for fabrics owe much to colour-and the model illustrates the tendency to luxury, revivals of the materials of other cuys. tempered by a restrained simplicity. 'So it is imperative that we acquaint❘ The costume suit in of velvet and its ourselves with the tendencies. and lines are straight. There is nothing
the wrist or be "barrel" in the shup realities of the material's world before unusual about the coat dress or the
One can expect novel applications. of trimming and of line, for stress is being Jaid on the separate coat or wrap.
THE CORRECT SILHOUETTÉ MAY BE.
1.
The Tunic Silhouette. The Cost Silhouette." The Redingote Silhouette. The Directoire Silhouette. The Full Skirt Silhouette. The Tube Flare Silhouette.
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it beautines pillows and is a part of the post exquisite appointments-quite ensil made-for the boudoir or the tolle zable. One may do much with an odging of real lace it may be a very Darrow edging, if it is real--and a touch of hand embroidery, especially if ene plans a gift of lingerie. And a simple blouse can be made a really exquisite thing by the use of lucu, dyed to form an effective, needed contrast. There are many possibilities—ours the opportunity.
Holiday Time Wu Soon Be With Už
We Must Be Planning Our Gifts,
we choose our winter wardrobe.
There are two, radical changes with the present season-n vogue for satin surfaced weaves has replaced the dull- Binished materials, and deep-pile fabrics have been supplanted by
leather finishes, although there will be dull aur faces in dress materials and lustrous surfaces in, coat and wrap!! fabrics. There is a return to popularity of exquisite corded weaves-the failles and ottomans..most popular, and textures. are unusually beautiful. Broadcloth han come back again, and it shows a satin finish; there are a very great many. plaids, both in alika and wools; and there are homespuns and tweeds and novelty mixtures. Flannel will retain a place of importance in sportswear, and it is to be had in all the loveliest of 'the new Autumn colourings.
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Two fabrics that stage a coud back with welcome regularity are satin and velvet, and you will hear, that it is to be a satin or a velvet season, as the case may bo. The velvets that fashion is using are very supple, very lovely, and it would be a pity to keep them from the mode. They share popularity with the ribbed silks and corded weaves that are a note of importance. Kotal silks and laces, chiffons and Georgottes beaded, more often than not-and velvet are the evening fabrics. This must be said, that while new fabrics como and old fabrica go, the cropes- Georgette especially, are always. good, Thoir stock may fluctuate, from season, ¡La season, but'ikis' only, a point or two, and there is never a time when they pro
VEZ
not a good "buy,
In general, both fabrics and trim. mings theline to richness, both of weave and colour, and designs are exotic, opposed to the “aseming simplicity of
hip-length jacket with its very usual sleeves, but the applique of white kid transforms it into a most distinctive model. It has the effect of lace and is matched by the fur collar, which is for only on the inside. An ornament at fringo marks the closing.
Fashion Enllats The Ald of Fer And Leather On' A Sult ́Of Rich
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