SATURDAY,
JANUARY 10, 1925.
THE CHINA MAIL..
MILLINERY-AN EVER CHANGING
PICTURE
BY BARBARA MAINSLOKY
CHOTOS BY JOEL FEDER
ALL OVER CRIBROIDER)
AND ASTUDDING
CONS
SATIN FABRICISATOY
UP AND A JEWELED ANY
DID YOU KNOW-
THAT fur fashions the vors newest- .costume suits, but it must be a pelt of the most suppic sort to Du effective. It makes the cont and fs: ma this skirt of a. cloth or silken, dress.
THAT the convoient Pullman kimatio amy now be had in a genuine fapanese garment of habutui silk. Black, navy, copenhagen, rose or purple, 10 földm heatly in a silk, travelling use of the same colour..
די
THAT the fatest Parin openings struss the coat frock; ensembly buita la two tone effects and a few with the new short jackets; very short skirta, many of them tinguer, and long alcoves
of various sorts.
THAT the smartest vogue for ever, ng, launched at the opening of the New York Opern season, is the set of jewels, made up, for instance, of ear ringa girdle and necklace. They are brilliantly effective.
THAT either white or gold is pro- ferred for the evening costume, and at times the two are combined in the most exotic effectu. Wraps of urmine or whita "lapin fur carry out the general jden,
THAT kiddies' kerchief's now come in a variegated nowezay-seven little squares in seven different colours, one for each day of the week. An appro- jointe kiddie picture is embroidered on
ench,
THAT the newest fabric is marbleized leather, the marble" referring to the colour rather than the leather itself. It is Uked for avalees, long coats-in combination with cloth, handbags, shoes and hat trimmings.
THE HUGE FUR. COLLAR
DEMANDS A SMALLIHAT
The Hat Of To-day Is Not The Hat Of To-morrow, By Any Means There Are Hints Of The Approaching Palm Beach Season.
We have only just had our first snow darries it is the thristmas holiday season? furoats are just making their Appearance; but the velvet hat is slowly Bassing nut of time pieture, so far way tashion is comrnet It is rather in the nature al ja pisimen hit, får one seema flanking several ways at once sword the Northern winter and he Southern summer and all the gradations of the seaporis,in between. Taffuentes sant were Apprirent in the early fall and dimppearing, nially; new fabrics are replading bee that have been, for a brief month or so familiar; there are changes in buck brim hd crown; the ar is filed with interesting prophecies af ny modes to rate. There is a
ritable fin fact-the costume emble-and it alerts millinery quite at much, if aot mure. than any othe one thing, for hy her hut is the smart Subah ka95n. So very inportant is the elemble idea that the woman who do not seep it in mind. when ass- bling a custume, a hopelessly out-of fashion, no matter how wholly in- fashion the component parts of her iostume may be. The idea of contrast at one time considered the ultimate aft smliftness-is un anachronism and all the world of women is now hasy mutching shadea-a business inderd
A Trend Toward The Small flat. The millinery trend is, just at pre- sent, toward the small hat. Do 1 hear you say that it has never been away from it? Perhaps, But there have deen desperate attempts to popularize the large or medium large hat, and Here attempts have been generally failures. There are many reasons for this, all tugient, the chief, reason the convenience of the dose-fitting shape. Then the fur cont, which usually bousts, a huge collar, makes soil hat ho-
A
change. whether it were more satis factury or not. And the result? variety of shapes, sizes and lines that wwel puzzle eves à Cubist painter of portraits, Out of the many the indivi dunt was supposed to select the ene-f she were fortunate in Anding it--that fiece her most, and go rejoicing on her way to differentless. Huge crowns, in many instances horribly unbecoming, bring that rolled or dipped or dis appeared altogether were everywhere, and they were worn because they were literally fared on the buyers. One has to have a hat.
The naist prominent mode in all this į variety was the Directoire, with its high. square crown, and its nent utle brim. To some types of faces it wa
must complimenting affair-you will tire the past tense, for the square crowned Hat is disappearing. The most sensible reason for its disappearance is its limitations, for only a 'favoured few wore it well, and, in the minds of those to whom it was not becqning there was the haunting memory of the jaunty. mert little cloche "that, was always so eminently satisfuetur. Those of us who merely existed through the period of Directoire-influenced hats will re- up the tendency away, from high, sajaure velvet hats, and the tendency toward what one suspects will be the eluche influencest hat.
Between Season Fabrics Appear. Prophesying the summer, close at hand in the South, there are fascinating shape of fine, French felt in the exquisite, gay colours that mark them as vacation hats, although they are nulté appropriate for town wear on for travel. If one is inclined to marvel at the continued popularity of felt, she has caly to possess herself of a really fine felt nut, and her questions will all
perative,, ant fs the fer coat season. be answered. They are su becoming, so "A third, and equally reasonable reason, chio, so wholly appropriate for so many the continued papularity of the occasions, that one will be duelined to lebbell head, which is bi-coming a settled include several of varying colours in Jandai. In fact, the shingle is almost har hut wardrobe... And the newest wholly replacing the bushy bob, anderings are diferent-in crown. in the latest French hair-cut-which is brim, in trinning And the dent of redly a résulation man's cut-is mak- their crowns; the tilt of their brims: ing its appearance here. This tendency the unusual trimming touches reeam- reflects itself in the small hut with mend them as first choice for what anal hend size.
really a between-senson time.
For several sucessive seasons the If the truth were known, few women Brominent dvigners made active war really discarded the cloche, even though in the eh, and their efforts were their newest hats were the most up-les- rewarded-if reward you would call it date invaginable. Always, somewhere --by the suppression-except ia dis in a convenient place, they had one of guise of this becoming. convenient. the friendly little affairs that always smart little hat. All these characteris.rulved, the problem, no matter what the thes Merideed to what? The ante necusión, except possibly a very formal denied of the maker of hats to compel affig; the hat that could be worn with
WRAPPING THOSE CHRISTMAS PACKAGES.
PICT ESQUE.BEAUTY OF LINE-SIMPLICITY
A
hate, are typical of the far coat hat
must be small, ger have colour and am a bat of this type would fit many. There are black hats in every wardrobe, spirit, The unit hat has something occasion, proving either too dressy the instipable class that includes in "it the turban about it yet belongs yo
for the street nor tou tailored for the afternoon. If your height and your all the vagaries of the best designer gure permit your indulgence in a large Such a hat would became its wearer or
or medium large hat, the pictured model" it would not-she bus-only to try.it an to determine. The hat of sath moire simplicity, both of line and trimming. is a atisfactory type. Its success is its straws are not so far away It, too, in black, and satisfyingly smart. always serves to brighten the dullness Simplicity, with ita consequent smart- and lighten the heaviness of winter ness, is the outstanding characteristic things, and this is the best, excuse for of th's Diode that is now in the making, its existence through the winter months.
The most successful of all the newest Satin takes monkey fur for its trian-mades have been simple-It argues well ming and finds the choice a wise une for the modela to come.
THE LITTLE THINGS OF CHRISTMAS
Cannot
unconscious ease, which is more than But it whuld rever do to gabruptly en he said for the so-called "high-hut."
ultimate end of the newest trend, so we buck to the cloche, even if that is the have the peaked and dented crown that is quite smate, somewhat easier to wear. amt very different, it lacks the w doubted severity of the Directolrd. hat. This type of hat wears its trimmings usually non-pos of fur or ostre on the very top, and the result has been a tendering to trip all sorts of hets on the top. Not si universally becoming. perimps, but decidedly novel and new. Felsin, then, the outstanding fabric, just now, although une aces many velvet hats and models of hatters plush along tallared men, und will continue to do so for onte time. Many still eling to winter late for water wear-strange? Mass woman would blade strong-wrapping papers Bat fit to the only tention of hands in despair if aha call the
Sthat twine; corrugated bourd, and, if the coming Palm Beach senson, for satin Tolition in which her witly chosen
fragile things are sent, excelsior or and moire are being used in the gradaul gift reach their test and she
-Lasa-stripde
transickie fram Winter to summer. would, without. duuhi, sundly borate Anything like a core of an umbrella, Velvet remains as a trimming, however, the pastoffice employees and what to must be reinforced by strips of wood or when it disappear as a fabric, appear- Just what are they, these "Eile her seems downrigh negligence. In pontething equally firm; aharp-pointed ing on the newer shapes of moire, satin things of Christmas? They are the dual thought for your every friend, If this she is, is a rule, must unfair, for instruments should be protected by a and fal
thoughtfulnesses that money
You will but take the time to find it. the transmission of tons of mḍil during ! work, if possible-and nit quids should
buy the consideration, for others that the holiday season must be done with be placed in
Colors Incline To Gayety.
Supplied with a list of names it is a one of the containers
means more,, sometimes, than a gift; comparatively simple matter to select dispatch-or he will complain of the specially designed for them.
While there are always blacks and the really truly, "Ifttle things that length of time it took her packages to containers, or mailing tubes, come in
a card you might have written yourself the nuances of the "stock" colourings. mean real plensure given, out of all pro- reach their destination-and with the
for each and every one. And there are various sizes, and the tube should be, there are, as would be expected, many portion to the gift. They may be cards, certain ones in our acquaintanceship to assumption that every package,andled large enough so that there can be some gay colours appearing-Castian nud
or calendars, or some Intle necessary. curefully wrapped."
whom a letter right mean more than Before we go packing-bran, sawdust or any absor tango red; abtle shades purple; vestul things that fills a real nced; the most elaborate card. Curds, care- into the matter of proper wrapping bent material-around the bottle or jar. aquamarine; Pevenche blue and nastur They mean consistent gifts, nat any lessly chosen, have wounded, rather thero is this to de sajdpackages Bresttable articles-birin,"glass, crack- tium. But une must choose with care thing at all chosen irrespective of the than pleased, in times gone by, mailed two weeks or ten days before ery-should be very carefully and and the ensemble in mind-one may not tuates of the recipient. They are the Christmas Day will arrive in, much specially packed, so that there will be
buy any bright little hat at all and find underlying ideas of all the gifts that personal tastes of the recipient whet One should never tono night of the hatter condition than those that are na dunger of breakage, and the package it u welcome part of the ensemble, it are made in the true Christnins spirit, choosing a gift. Even so smail a thing. sent to or three days before the should be labelled "Fragile"-In-lettersinust blond-uniently well to become the welcome gifts, the uwable gifts a salonder should be selected with twenty-fifth. Insurance helps-both high enough and red enough to com a part of the whole, It is imperative They do not always come from the care, for there aru poetry calendara; the peace of mind of the sender und mand attention. As to the packing of that one make mention of the use of most easy shop in town; they are cookery calendare; srdenders that havn the sure and safe arrival of the giftfragile articles, ono way toornis prett-leanard fux laassed allie and wool in fint time-home-mader they are often thought a day from a favourite
No matter how beautifully the gift cally safe method from the department minery, for they are a foregone con honely rather than artiste; but they itself may be done up-in tissue ribbons stora that sends out thousands of such cluston, in view of the popularity of this are much more likely to go into use
author; friendship calendara: Kumorous or cards and veals that wrapping a plecos every day, and has a very small striking for. And strice the small hat at once than the more expensive, moropriate thon a ment-a-day calendar for calendars. What could be more appro- beside the question of preparing the percentage of breakage. There should is the logical hat of the hour, four very ,beautiful, lozh useful giftableAREN package for the mails. Every home ho careful wrapping in paper large new models are prozented, ancha fifth, The fundamental kies of grouting.calendar for en admirer of the poet;
the puzzlod, house-wife; a Browning should have a copy of the little booklet enough to really cover, with a margin somewhat lurger, keeps thom.company cards on Christmas and anniversary friendship calendar for the shut-in I "Pontal Information" that may be to para; twine enough used and caro- obtained at any portefice, and it willfully knotted so that it will neither effect; both employing ombroidery, the times the cards received are meanlog artistic sense of her who-receives, for Both small; both tailored in their days is a very excellent one, but at The gift of book-ends may appeal to the teach the reader many illuminating untic or slip off; and the address should fabricats achieve thing. Christons seala dust be con- be written or printed plainly Fellow through shape, design and gonefal lines. them. There are so many clever cards known works of art are reproduced for differentnessless, were it not for the thought behind the choice is wide and many of the best Aned to the back and are better loft these instructions, giving quite as much One would hardly dare class them as to be had. It nom a shame to send the this purpose. The fittle things of off of the package. If address stickāra care to the wrapping as you gave to the cloches, yet they are pendously close to old perros phrases year after year Christmas way interpret the spait of are used the name must be written misunlection of the gift, and youjispadi poti. thaveroppland should hold ancougara i deulada
-;
Thesa
"
When the Wide World'
Call
The makers of Aue fuggage and the", rest of the space to lingerie; an attrac designers attractive clothes have tive boudois garment; shoes, hosiery both contributed their share to the com- and the various accessorica of the toilet fort, convenience and smartness of her The activities of the week-end trip who follows the lure of the open road known before departure will determine- criavels-into other climes or countries. the need for more than the one hat that. Ail the inconvenieners of the journey the visitor wears. In event another is are disposed of before that journey needed, a begins, and the anticipation that is "the becomes imperative, and a uso is found third piece of luggage better part of pleasure" is increased by for the collapsible type of hat box, the knowledge that there will be few illustrated. It is smart in its appear 'inconveniences on the way, and the ance and the utmost in convenience, assurance that one's wardrobe will make the journey quite as satisfactorily as its mistress. Summer used to be exclu- sively travel time, but it is so no longer, and we are approaching the period of week-end trips; journeys to the summer land of the south; and vacations in foreign lands.
For the trip that presupposes sports, with informal dancing in the evening. the outfit will include sports apparel, and, as before, the evening frock. The/ latter will be of the sort that travels: well-of lace, Georgette, crepe de chine, frabrics that may be quite easily press-
Crushable trimmings should be avoided, and each costume should be completely assembled before picking that some really imperative accessory does not come up missing when it is needed most: The ties, the belts, the cufflinks for the sports ensemble; the bit of costume jewellery; the coloured kerchief; the Various what-nots of semi-formal attiraj and the fan, the correct hosiery and slippers the earrings and headdress,. the shawl or scarf for the evening frock; "ount them over, every one apart," the pearls on the rosary of your perfect costame.
For the long trip-or the shorted, or may need no pressing at all. there should be ample provision, but not over-provision. From..the scm- bled garments and accessorien every thing should be etiininaled that is not absolutely necessary to one's comfort able correctness, that, one's luggage may, he is limited as possible. If one possesses an overnight bag her toilet arifcles are taken care of; or it may be possible that her suitcase is fitted with the necessary things-the very newest cases having a tray that can be made into a separate case, if the room is needed for wearing apparel. When the trip is for the week-end only a sultant and overnight bag is luggage suficient, the choice of things to be taken is wisely made. The case may be of the wardrobe type that assures the frocka arriving la perfect condition.
The advice for the week-end trip holds good for the longerajourney Tha elimination of unnecessary things means more form for frocks and suita a greater variety in attire. If the Among its other virtues the costume
Journey really means extended travel, ensemble suit reckons its undoubted do not forget the housewife for the usefulness to the traveller. If the cont "stitch in time" the small, but well- is long, it means that the dress worn chosen first aid outft; a travelling on the train or in the motor may be of bridge or Mah Jong outfit-for hours the simpler type, while the sult case that might prove boresome; and tho may hold another frock that approaches clever nids to travel comfort that shops the semi-formal, in its type. For anyhole in abundance. There in little bat a most elaborate week-end the versatile costume suit and an evening frock will be quite sufficient, leaving the
excuse for the woman who travels in an tnebmfortable fashion, these days of clever, convenient travel equipment.