SATURDAY, DECEMBER 6, 1924.
THE CHINA MAIL.
AFUR BY ANY OTHER NAME"
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PHOTOS:
DEL
DER
A Figured Fabric Combined With Satin Hints Of The Mandarin Con From China,
A PIPACT CAL COAT SHOULD
DUPAGLI
مربوط به
A Diversity of Styles and Pelts. Contributes To. the Manner of the Fur Mode--New Colours and Blends Demanded By An Exacting Fashion-Fur As Trimming.
NIL!
beelt
inner and possesses a Perlain' infor al smartness that is inost deshable. Boss Duralite Furs Far The Afternoon.
For afternoon wear we have the
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THE LEOPARÖ AO BEAVER...
CEMEN FRIENDSHIP
fur Persian lambs; carneul Bar broadtall-we have the model with flared skirt, and wide bandings of for fur at hemline and sleeve edge, matched by a rollar of fox. Such a coat belongs
fur is not insperative for charm.
Mole is the fur beloved of the furrier, who cur'de with it practically every- thing a tailor can do with a cont fabric. The wide hemline is achieved in a
matched by flounces on the sleeves and trimmed with dyed squirrel, I will be noticed that sleeves are neither very wide or very narrow,, and that collars, while varied, are never huge, (though there is a good bit of fur in each and every one of them. Foarfs, copying the silk scarf, are, from a yard and a half to two yards in length. 'And muffs-especially the fat litt. mulf of better the garment will wear, and this the. Directoire period-ur the model proves conclusively that. 8 soft | "vogue."
While it is quite true that the beauty of a fur mað known as ?wider raț“ would be quite as evident as the same gument masterading as "Pamyk," it p would hardly have the same appeal to familiar bgoudtai, and the less familiar the feminine mind; and “Burunduki" is. Amerieur broadtaif, which usually berṛa a och ner attractive" Name than the qualification "processed tamb" in "chipmunk," even though we are well parentheses. The lutter is not as dur aware that they are synonyms. The bly, but is very lovily in the taupe steadily increasing demand for Eas and brunze shules-lhe latter trimmed both us fabriks und trinosings - hus with bronza fox, the former with made it operative that every possible | Siberinn squirrel. It is worn at all far-hearing imal should be requisis { hours of the day, as is curneul in some Cloned into the servien af craftsmen and one of its many shades, cream, black designers. As a result we de never and brown the best Bikes. Black lynx, quite sare just what the pelt, is we are dyed, fiteb and Viatku-dyed squirrel are wanting, but if onerai bé a fatalist-the-trimming-fure usually associated to the-send-woman, for e-mature-model that has "arm Bounces "about"the mutter the engolt is certainly with this fur, - and the tendency to gure, cannot stand cuffs so wide; a
worthy of the uffart that
ombre shules of brown. in dressor and collar so huges or the wide band at the expended. To see the newest furs Is Lunies is reflected in brown combina- hem. A practical goat: durable to pray for bod winter that makes tians of furs of all kinds. Squirrel cout; a coat quite dressy enough for possible tipe wats; the scurfs auri mek= ni afternoon fur, and it may be its. any daytime neeasion—the model that priveg and the cladiately Tuy- natural enlour or dyed; summer ermine takes po other fur for a trimning, bʊt trimmed garments Thet TON the is also worn; both Aluska seal and depends upon the craftsmanship dix- visible risult of very great deal of Hudson seal appear on the list; mule, played in the striping and the phusunl forthought and corresponding is now, dyed, is well as squirrel, and' collar for its distinction. The harsher Theraugāless of semich into the animal much tiket, and mink-the darkest the for; the courser the hair; the world. - The finest peit: soft, delicate.
skins the best quality-- always luxurius--are no more desirable that
beautiful. the sturdier, more; motionli» Frequently smarter--skius dui play six prominent A part in the daytime and spart mode.
Three Distinct Classifications. For general purpods, furk are divided into three classes--the utility fars that are very, venerally known as sportist the furs when of an afteravon, legs sturdy, yet enough for their purpose; and the carer, more fragile fars that belong to evening. It is jossible to go "eyen farther and make a distinct class of what might be called day-time furs, that belong neither to the sports or the altaan gruup, but that would reulty splitting hairspor fun!" Then there are, vof course, the separate sking for neckpieces, and the trimming Turs, While fars are by no mENIN US expensive as they were daring the war. it in quite out of the question for Whe average, Woman to poseivss several fur conta, so her choice must be more or logs Conservative, and be the mast beautiful and the most durable pell obtainable für her special purpose.
At the very outsri the same bit of advice that has been repented so many times is apropos-gu- to a reliably furrier who will tell you frankly what. the real name of n fur may be-this Jinnesty is the reason for hl being called reliable: He can tell you whit furs will give you the most Wear and the best servçè în u coat, and explain the use of the more frugile, furs in Certain types of trimmings. For many a skin that will not be satisfactory as a fabric will be quite satisfactory, as a trimming-such a one is Baronduki- The Resatie and the trade name for chipmunk.
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Three fury lead the list-and prac- tically complete it--for" evening." Sable, Chinchilla und ermine are the three. although fine-quality mink has a repre- sentation. Nothing could be lovelier, år more appropriate, for evening went than a boat, wrap or cape of rayal ermine-sometimes epllared in black or white fox and superbly lined. The hood bus appeared on evening capes, and when the fur is armine; the lining velvet-black, royal blue or American beauty rose-and the hood is of the 'same fabric, as the lining. It is hard to imagine anything more strikingly effec- life or beautiful. All the evening furs are fragile, with the possible exception of mink, but they do not meet, with really hard wear, so it is quite possi- ble to say that they, are practical for their purpose.
Various furs are used for trimming. antong them rabbit-skilfully, dyed and named with equal skill; squirrel de dyed;, leopard; foxj, guzelle; beavers chipmunk and dormouse- known as “Loir." These trimmings up- pear on vouts of fur and cloth, and are very lavishly used, for the fur mode is a most luxurious one, and the fabric coat mode is equally luxurioue in ifs own way. The list of using skins to form both horizontal and diagonal stripen and plaids is an effective one, and lin- inge add much to the beauty of the garments, for they are, us a rule, magat gorgeous, and sometimes have the added beauty of elaborate facings. Copts are all lengths, and the silhouette is, pre- ferably, slim and straight although- there are some flured hemlinen.
Leopard For All Daytime Occasions.
Leopard, whether it be the vo fingers' print on a tawny background, or the South American variety that has single spot on n'cream white back- ground-is very smart for all hours of the day. It isėvarijosły trimmed with
For this practical purpose there is a wide choice of very sutisfactory skins-leopard, leopard cat, gazelle, muskrat, raccoon and opossum the most generally known. Gazelle, and leopard are used for the short conts that some find effectively becombig and the nutrisi succooned fax or fox_dyod- ure, in this group, while coste, trimmed i brown, and lined with a fine attention with white fox or nutria, but the fact to the nuances, of coldur. Such a cont that they are not really practical Is is pictured, and one instantly sees its obvious. Rarraon, to be good, must be paasibilities for general use. It is ex- dark; muskrat a very fine wearing fur, tramely slim. of line, the almness accen is effective when the skins are mado tuntop by the collar of besver that into a herringbone stripe or the coat."extends to the hemline, Wide alsoves itself is bordered; silver muskrat is. are cuffed; narrowly, at the wrist with proving-very-smart, but taupe is the the trimming fur, and there is a dia- natural colout, and some of the very tinguishing use of fancy braid and a smartest models are trimmed with files contrasting lining of crepe de chine that or brown ertine, Gazelle coats are extends itself to form a part of the Nometimes pigided with black hare, and collar..
in a very general way of speaking, this best. This coat is leopard at its very
type of coat ils very youthful in its Representing the vague for t
The Gift of Glass
for the Home
Fun makers of all sorts find math, that is amusing in the type of woman that buys a set of furs for her hus band's birthday gift, and receives, when her birthday comes round, a gift of a Meerschaum pipe, in retura. There is humour
the situation, without a douht, but there is good sense in the underlying principle of the thing, for
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!
Not, Gild
though the dates may be twisted, both get something they really want, which might not have been the case had the one bought for the other. There are too many unwanted gifts-represent- ing, oftentimes, real sacrifice-given away at Christmas time, for not in- frequently they are useless to the person who receives them, a white
C047 OF MOLE EMPLOYS
HE WIDE TALINE
elephant in the house, But for the homekeeper-relative; (Fiond; some- time hostess--a gift for the home is always aproRIDE,
.
And while there are many things that will suggest themselves: for-the- small gift or the large; the expensive or the inexpensive thought;, there is not thing lovelier than gliss,
The woman who loves flowers never seem to have enough vares and bowls for them-ur perkups
one should qualify and wày that she, never seems to have the right kind of vases and bowls. She may have to sacrifice the stems of blossoms that need their stems; or her bowl may not be shallow enough for short stemined poises. One may not,ild the Hy or paint the royal American healty rose, but shu ean, at least provide it setting for the beauty thal, exists. The pictured' bowl, of greenish, tinted ginss, in set in black, wrought iron frame, and the ring i the handle is of a rich, orange-red that' deepens the colour in some of the blossoms themselves) And when there nee no flowery in it, the bowl itself is ornamental.
There is no glusà lovelier for the in- cidental gift than Venetian glass, for it is colourful in a must unusual way, and it is varied and delightful in design. Venice, naturally, adores the spa, and the sea is reflected in the glass whe sends to us-in its colours, that are of the waves in storm and calm; in its designs. that are reminiscent of the Her Blue green, amber, red-but the blas may be of the waves or of pen- cock feathers; the grean is of sca- water; the red in a deep raspberry or fudes into a tourmaline pink; and the amber may be true amber colour or have so much red in it that it is almost
An orange.
Flat Braid And Buttons Strike The Tailored Note On A Blouse Of Striped Material.
DID YOU KNOW.
ክነ
THAT " new wrist ornament is the And it is quite possible to find a
initial of the owner, set with small single piece, or more than a single rose diamonds in a rim of gold? It is piere, in any one of the colours. There worn on a black moire ribbon band. are odd bits compote, perkaps-in
THE TUNIC SHADOWS THE BLOUSE MODE.
-
munners
It is not often that fashions in clothes become more practical and thore beauti- fal at the same time, instead, we frequently find it a dreary fact that the characteristic of loveliness pro supposes fragility; and practicality.. presupposes lack of beauty. But the of the mode seem to be noticeably good of late, and for several seasons past the trend has been toward smart things unusual things; ically charming things, and at the saine time these things have possessed more than a small share of practicality. There is economy in colour harmony in one's dothes, and of late the trend has been toward thing the costume ensemble- whether it be dress and coat or skirt, cost and blouse--has made possible'any number of economical combinations of garments; and contributing its share to beauty and economy-we have the tunic blouse.
the
It shadows the blouse mode,just as
slipover and overblousd, havo.. shadowed "the mude from their incep- tea. An occasional tuck-in blouse only serves to remind us what a real com fort it is not to have to worry "lezt our skirt binding be in evidenza. And. the funi is so important that takes on almost the value of a dress, for if
it be long eauugh, it may be worn with
costame slip and really bregne all theam. The length of this form of blouse is usually from thirty-six to forty-two inches, but some are as long that they reach to the very hem of the skirt-one, wonders why they are not called dresses from the start. But it is a fock, and an economical une, too,
4 that a blouse is likely to be less expen- give than a frock, and many a per- plexed woman is solving the problem of a dress with a tunic, for nine times out of ten she already has, something that will serve for a foundation.
Practically every medium and light- weight fabric is used for the tunis blouse. The satins, crepes and crepe sutine-both plain and figured; éhiffon and Georgette; velvets of the more apple variety; the metal cloths; eat chenille; the ribbed silks-faille and bengaline, and taffeta aliks-especially the new, smart plaids-arg all most. generously used, and plain fabrics aro combined with figured in a most efec- Live way. Trimmings are as versatile As materials, and embroideries of all kinds-especially of beads, ip the French manner; appliquce; hand work -hemstitching and Yagotting, and braking and buttons are a part of the mode. With so many different fabrics ́and ways of decorating them the suz- cess of the fashion is, at the outset,
the design of a dolphin, a swan or a THAT separate collars of fur. for kea horse." There are fruit. dishes, Į wear with afternoon or evening frocks, candlesticks and, candelabra, flower
assured. have now made their appearance? bonis; sherbet and grape froli giusacs; They are perfectly flat and aro Snished vases und pitchers, as well as many with a stole of chiffon or Georgette. queer tumblers of the sort that may be found only in this, loveig ware.
THAT gloves are smartest when There are barrel glasses, koblet shapes, they do not really fit the hund? They and tail narrow glasses that are very must be loose to slide on or off with like the old "lip glasses of our great case stubby fingered and of white or grandmother's day. There are flower natural coloured chamois. blocks and vasen specially designed for short-stemmed flowers, quaint' pepper shakers and wea salt dishes, and de- curative swang that may hold nuts for the dinner.
And if it is not to be a delicate gift at gis exquisito if it is not to be a lovely holder of beautiful flowers; u console set for drinking glasses; there le the useful glass for baking-it can really be quite', lovaly and when the ginae is scribd and set in a silver or d, nickel Holder, it combines "beauty with practicality. And they're mak ing tea and coffee pot of this oven glask, so that one can tell the strength of the brew-by looking at the put itself. And just now, when scientiata are th- flating that colon and tea should be mads in china,” ginch son; sarthenware, spot would undoubtedly find a
Thero la a wide divergence in liaça, although the' alim silhouette is, in every way, the lender. And since it is the fact of a wide choice that makes for the becomingness of a fashion, further. evidence for the affirmative in a debate. over the tunic is found in a neckline that may be round, bateau; square or THAT the colour of the buttonniere be either short or long-although long V-shaped; in a sleove that may -which is, in itself, a necessity-must seves are smerter; a silhouette that be repeated in the kerchief of printed chiffon or erepo Georgette?, yellow or black-thong-buttonnieres colours are bath gorguous and sub
Rod, line that
may be straight or fared; and a homo- may be wide or narrow. und kerchiefs.
dued; and the very newest note is the ombre blouse that begins at the neck- THAT following the vague for the line with the pale tone of a colour and ensemble costume, the ensemble gar- despins, gradually to the hemline, to ment of glove silk has appeared 7 a darker shade. This umbra colouring Specially soft and absorbent, it is is extremely rart in all departments designed for wear under the popular of dress. rubber reducers.
Rosa, But Their Settings Should auch
Both the pictured tunica are of the
THAT the "glore Kerchier, that practical #artthe one of a stripod diminutivo and convenient accessory to fabric tailored in Its feeling, braid the dress costume, la, sgain voguef. It and button trimmed; the other of two will be of coloured linen with hand-fabrics, siit at the sides like a Man- rolled ham, and have gumini, búa of slik | daring comanda.featuring the meget
whlon is holding firmly to its poppiazz