SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 1924.
THIE CHINA MAIL
SMARTAPPAREL for WEAR in the OPEN
BY BARGARA
MUYZOW
JOEL
STAIRES RUN 8OLĖL
SUF QE
$77860
Colour Range and Novelty of Fabric the Funda- mentals-Little Change in the General
Lines of the Silhouette.
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:
n the mannish or boyish tailored. pity, and the fabric is treated exactly
as though it were wool. Crepe de chine
and cefinin lks also play an important rast in the sports mode
It is only natural that we associate', Ullured things, and is seen in conts sports clothes with sports and the out- of-doors. But fushion, while she grunts their value te thu two, includes third in her fist, and minkes them a part of the general mode, that has little, if anything, to do with gaines er nature. It has been a gradual but an amazing metamorphosis from the grub of the first quaint éostume, “designed for artatil and active participation in sports. to the butterty of the prereza day móce in the clever mi bola thei puig now be hart in amusing varletry módela that venture induvas quite as frequently as They pear cat of dep. They are välled sportsvlothes, but figey are really the everyday attire of contry life und the correct apparellings fe travel; the kind of garments one tony wear at golf, you feel corratly and properly élud if The stops in at the country clua, after the game, for tea. They are a cunning combination of cursfort, beauty novelty,
and audacity and they passesa a trets d of line and pronat a freedom of movement that no othe ype so clothes excels or eveu eqanis. 1
Chang Only In Fabrics, Colour And Details.
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In sports clothes, as in every depart- ment if dress, colour is rampant, and plays an even moré important part in the apparel dufened—presumablý--for the mut-nl-coug, since the latter, provides The necessary setting for briliant tones. Citron, gold and canung für the yellows: rue, shytten pink, Juckey, sheik, tomato and veration for the reds; powder. mesta. Empire, Madonna and azure for the blues; and the tan, champagne and brown tones are all favourites, and taere are mauro intermediate shades ting one in time enumerate. Black and white in combination are always good, but navy blue does not, somehow, "belon," although some use of it is quite sure to be made,"
There Is Great Variety In Apparel
Types. While the one piece frack is the best known type of sports apparel, the suparnte skirt worn with over-blouse, dessinator, capa sleeveless fucket with tailored blouse is a popular costume. and the general range includes all types of sult, utility top goats, sweaters, | canters-sleeveless and with sleeves-
and the sleeveless dress, The fatter, more often than not, har-a matching coat or cape that transforms it into a very smart costume. Many of the suits take their eve from the boyish tailleur, the type that is either single or double breasted and has either one or two buttons.
MINATENESA
FACTICAL,
HNKKE
ALONG COMES SILK.
Silk Drejt néz, gov is popularity a stanzen of pornestion with it, buy it be of greeted intenst at the prerent time because it fashow's fancy for "gallusive" wean almost to the exclu sha of every other fabric." And hy silk, og do not man silk with wo or by silk, but the all silk materials that include Taille, elpaes, bengaline and the various crepes in plain. flower- el gr pattel weires. The merest will on the bat ke bengaline, taking its pface at the band of the class by moving one step ahvaj of alpam, the favourite up to this time.
The sili: cat and the suit- either takerül, with cupe, or with stervelear coats replacing models of
Since, the straight-line is the only putical line for this type of apparel, there has been no change in the outline of the silhouette. Eut in the material world there have been many changra- many of the more familiar fabrics appear in new guises; and many for- giten fabrics have been brought again to prominence. Novelty weaves are polar, whether it be in knit or woven materials, and. the Scotch woollens, treedy,, home-pass, and fabrics with Trimnings are maalfeld, tuekings parrow Shaggy stripes or raised plaids and pleatings the most popular, with a in self colour are among the best liked.deal of stress on the Inttor, All-plented There is a very general use of sperie skirts and blouses entirely be partially finished fabrics which use deceptively af pleats are popular, and there are
aht of weight and pliable
attructive combinations of various kinds Flannel is a revival of other senoons, Inf pleats, the effect both unusual and and it is growing in popularity every of intriguing
Buttons, dns. It first appeared in straight line coloured fura, pockets, bright coloured its stripes round and round as evenly appropriateness of knickers-their suit is pictured here in a frock that takeg discussion conceming the propriety or dresses-some with belts and some linings, and belts are all trimming without-and now we have it in the details of the sports made, and both though the simile may be. The fabric than the unkind criticisms of the strict barrel takes its hoops-impractical ability having proven more effectual scarf frock-the scarf separate from the blouses and skirts take the monogram
Is kasha cloth, the silhouette the tube, conservatista, who consider them Ettle fruck; in costs and capes, either fur or the motto as a bit of decoration. trimmed or plain; all sorts of sports Then there is the fob and the now seal broken by the band of white it the hem short of disgraceful. For the woman skirts, coatees and sleeveless routs. It finish that resembles nothing 3D maclidge, that putines the slits in the skirt, who is really active in sports, and is a lovely fabric, soft and supple, and as the flap of an envelope, sealed down. Several groups of buttons-three to gramme tennis golf and sports slin the latter in the interests of freedom. Includes in her summer day's pro- pussorsing great possibilities. Alpaca Novelty in trimming la desirable, but is another revival-so is challis-the it must not interfere with the comfort
the group-and a scarf are the only to these, there is an eistamo so appro- Intter ut its best in tailored frocks of of the garment it trims.
trimminis detalls. Stripes,again--nguín priate, so comfortable, and so conducive atenight line simplicity, Satin has An exception to the role that atripes running round and round on a like of freedom as the suit made up of invaded the realm of both sports and to be smart must run up and down, this time in a three-piece sulf, straight and knickers. Like every really dis
mutorial of somewhat different weave, blouse arid sleeveless coat, or sweater,.
of Hine, but belled narrowly and buckled, tinct type of apparel, knickers are not The coat is three-quartors' length, cut becoming to everyone--thoy are the straight, in top-coat fashion, with shawl property, really, of the slender, youth collar and medium narrow cuft. Link ful woman or the young girl, and one buttons fasten the neck of the dress. cannot help sourding the warning note which can be opened and worn in a Vifand suggesting that the prospective so desired."
Nearer view herself in a triple, full- Knitwear Models Achieve Perfection. length mirror, before, definitely corn-
mitting heraclitie the costume. Knitwear reaches the pinnacle of A suit of the type described la perfection in straight line, sleeveless pictured here--the iden developed in a frock that shows a preferenca for plaida wash material. The nickers, cuffed in the skirt, but keeps to solid colour straightly, below the kang live no
„CONSULTING A SPECIALIST.
Very few women consider the subject, not right, and the reason is obscure, a of clothes from the viewpoint of specialist should be consulted, Present practicality. They are, instead, too day interest in the details of dress is
often chosen with an utter disregard for their individual suitability both in respect to no and comfort. Every vonian who possesses an imagination has a picture of herself as she would like to appear, but few consider them selves as they ronily are, studying their good points that they may make the mast of them, and their bad points for who, of us are free of them that
they may, lo é certain extent, conceal
Buying o
them,
responsible for the specialist in attire, and specialists may now be found in overy type of appareling.", "high"
Your problem may be your corset,
then an expert corsetiere will solve it for the waist, The wide, soft girdie unnecessary faliness--yet fullness
;
heavier weight fubries; it would be difficult to conceive of a'loveller fashien. | Capes of silk are sure to be a part of the surtmer mode, for they combine beauty with utility as no other wrap jean dy when the weather is warm The costume of silk is achieved in various ways, chief among them the combining of silk blouse with silk pleated skirt, the latter known as a costume skirt and marit, preferably, of accordion pients. The silk for the skirt is usually some variety of crepe and there are light shades as well as dark. The overblouse will be of crept o satin, its ligés so planned that it carries at the costume. effect that is so desirable.
DID NOT KNOW-
That a tunic blouse, exotically inspir- ed, has diagonal lines and alluring fringes that remind one of the pic- turesque land of Spain? It is of heavy crepe and quite appropriate for semi- formal wear.
THAT Paris delights in emphasizing the vogue of navy blue? She favours it in, suits and frocks for the street, especially, although she sanctions it for nearly every summer occasion.
THAT New York specinity shop -famous for its original fashions-has
introduced an under-the-arm bag of kid with Batik decoration? It is a most original and attractive accessory.
THAT eretonne is being used, not only for trimmings-cuffs, collar. pockets and narrow bandings—but as a material for straight line conta of lining, too. undeniable smartness? It is used à A
THAT scarfs are printed, Eatîked, hand-painted, banded, fringed? What ever fts peculiarity, a searf there must be, wound once about the neck with both ends hanging straight down in front.
SOMETHING NEW FOR SOMETHING OLD.
Who of you but possesses at least one frock that has outlived its useful, Ress, so far as fashion is concerned, yet remains irritatingly unworn as to its fabric? Assuming that such n frock is simple rather than erratic of line, there is hope for it and you! The fabries of the present time are, to varied, usd lend themselves to com binations with such effectiveness, that many things are possible The idea is to reduce a frock to its lowest terms, so far se trimmings are concerned, then see what can be done.
The straight line dress of twill or;
serge will blossom anèw with an over- blouse of printed silk, as simply made na the frock self-with a lover collar and. smart little tie. A sutin dress, or one of silk, will profit by flounces of lace; by" a rape of lace; or by a bertha or a searf, Just where the fabric should be used: must be deter- mined by the individual and the con- dition of the dress fuelf. nothing else can be done with the silk or crepe frock, it can te made into a costume slip or a petticoat.
And if
Evening frucks cause worry, for they are worn in comparatively little, yet one
like a change. The frock of white or nome light shade may be cleaned or dipped a deeper shade, and used as an entirely new foundation for treatments of lace; embroidered, printed or hand- painted chiffon; or become the tinted slip worn under an overdrése of laco or Georgette. The filmy fabrics -demand a slip or foundation, and the Posion of a pause frock with possibilitics means cutting the cost of new dress in halves. On the other hand the overdres muy outlive tha under slip, and a different colour may change its appearance entirely.
WHEN THE SUMMER WARD- ROBE GOES A-TRAVELING
and there is, of course, a much wider variety. Made of leathers that are travel-proof, as far as it is possible, Btted cases for week-erd use are not but
It has been said that "He travels safest in the dark night who travels lightest." but it would be hard to make the modern woman understand the meuning of a proverb su contrary only her own ideas.
conveniently planned, If most compactly extremely smart in appearance. Many were substituted for "lightest,
he would most certainly agree, for in a removable tray that can be taken then of the newer cases have their fittings. she is ar authority on the subject of convenient and space saving luggage.
nut if it is not needed, and the space and keeps quite us up-to-date on the things. Many prefer the case that bus it occupies must be used for other many pieces that answer her varia no fittings, supplementing it with an needs as she does on the trend, of overnight bag, and there is this to be. fashion in suits and gowns. Her pro-anid for the latter, it can be used many. blem is the sort of luggage that will accommodate her wardrobe
and deliver it at the journey's end fresh and unwrinkled, no matter how great the distance travelled.
times when the other, would not be practical. The fittings for either the usually either amber, celluloid or shell, fitted case or the overnight bag are
although there are many extremely elaborato cases that have fittings of silver, gold or enamel.
"!
We are all familiar with the wand rube trusk and certain types of hand that is, we think we are familiar, unt smaller travelling bag, but it is not so luggage designed for wusk-end tripa,
Men like the English kit bag or the that have been put on the market. If practical for a woman, who needs the we examine the newest trunks and bags the journey means a trip by train, then breadth and length of the suit case. the regular wardrobe trunk is the When a bag is the preference, "it is choice, but there are staimer wardrobe possible to obtain a travelling case that trunk and motor wardrobe trunky, includes all the necessary articles, both designed for the special purpose
whether the buyer be maseline or feminino. their name imply. All three combine,
It is safe to say that the in varying degrees, the usefulness of a
average woman will add an overnight clothes ennet or wardrobe and the con case to her equipment, for there are venlence of the chifforobe, for they
many necessities for the avorago toilet -haze separate compartments for frocks,
these days. The toilet caso of the suits and coata for lingerie and
up-to date woman would be a veritable costume accessories; for shoes; for puzzle to the women of a century ago. hate; and for umbrellas and parasols.
likely to use the trunk space devoted lo But the modern woman is more than hats for some other purpose, and add to hor luggage the convenient hat trusk or box that takes care of her choice millinery in the most satisfactory enner. As rule this type of Caggage is light in weight, but strongly made, so that it is not dificult to handle, yet assures protection. There are, also,
for you: It may be an anasuni breadth belt is edged with colour and a match cough to hinder the wearer. They combination hat and shoe trunks,” L of shoulders or hips-a breadth out of ing, double line of colour runs down thesare full enough, however, for both care plans a journey that calls for more proportion to the reat of the figure or centre front of the walet, while's single fort and a shark appearance. The tha the Dayal amount of apparel, and may be a plutoprens that you may line edges siroves and jacket: The alcavelers cout worn orge, tailored there are specially planned wardrobe. t escape no matter how optimistically pearl buckle at the beltis:& clever | House, has patch pockets and a narrow trunks that utilize the space that. Is specialist in stout attire then the framing, Loul. Designed primarily belt-e other end of elaboration, other things, the lies being that three
your refuge for a travaline costume, but appro-Again knickers of vusi material, worn, other idea chi's dlothes, is a business in fort the result of even the most rains capelsult of all and wool kill goods in mannishly event strikingly, andrt the luggage MADAGA
It may be a problem of shoes discom- printa, for minty, day-time offasions, « this time within, sleeveless waistedat; will be such a combination trunk: In Life same proportion that buying food taking and careful choice--thon shoe shades of tamis pictured The dress Edges and prokte, are bound in white. Masculine luggage will, most likely, for the table is one, antroportioning speialist will tell you whether it is the i krops to the straight and narrow away, and the closing a three button affair the costume is of egual importance with wing, the arcs or, thaw heel of your shops and, the cape a litle Jess than thrednote of oddity struck the squared Balancing the daily ration for the table that is at fault. There are specialista, quarters length is fulled from the iize that give lale, dalloned boule the the rout may be both pleasing in lines colours, every detail by one'si collar and fastens with lusps", "and") teteath, the elu sulukkonen. ark-hpaithful, and e-dist be wrong, gowning, S. and pa veonslitkagity fresh button. Not the kusde fint with age. Ill shunich remainan murda alapagialist, ini, apecalista: often, maana nam ortivisere, tional crost, and the apdrisales sort all randy to pan on ma
i possible to adjzirė 2. porbimAN consulted 's's logical procedure. And comfort has not been, and Becoming repeating the colour in the fabric of but many prafer to s what is logical in one; thing may be costume effects that will delight the which the chims in-made: Feldebral costume: themselves," thei
dothar if ones clothes, are likbartly
number in its plecus a golf trunk, a comparatively new idea in trunks, and decidedly clever ono. Ising roomy 94|cheagh for all the equipment needed by (Hf) "healthy wallias,"him,” andi miskin að migs) dobrable addition to the, luggage; of the golfing vacationist.
Has luggag-mart başka sturdy dní.
(skrunthair? na“ the farger: places,
but it is an interesting bit of luggage, Just the same.
There are many other travel luxuries in the luggage fine, especially for the touring motorist,-or the woman who travels extensively by train or steamer. To the compact bridge, chesa, domino and checker sets designers have added the cleverent sort of a Mah Jonge set with tiles of highly polished wood, cellulald counters, dice and wind box as well as the necessary racks, all encased in a cardboard box that will it snugly and compactly into one's luggage, whether it be trunk bag. It quite possible to carry one's favourite recreation with 'one, nowYB~~ days, and there is dlways the assurance of finding a fellow traveller who shares one's enthusinam.
The motorist will carry a luncheon kit ar "motor restaurant,"the names vary with the price, one will find. I one has been fortunate enough to pass the night at a hotel noted for its cuisine, the sensible thing to do to have the luncheon kit packed with an attractive meal for mid-day.. Such a kit contains plates, cups and saucers, as well as knives, forks, and ispoons, so that the varkus kinds of food-as well as the hot drink, out of the thermos bottles--- can be properly eaten and enjoyed. No tourists can afford to omit auch an outfit from the equipment, no matter how limited the space for luggage be It proves, in the end, an economy.