SATURDAY, OCTOBER -11, 1924.
THE CHINA MAIL
Picturesque Millinery Modes
A. HIGH CROWY
AVOKOS
BY JCC
FEDEAS
The Newest Offerings of Designers Are Either Very Large or Very Small-Some Hats Appear Larger Than They Are.
FT is a comparatively new idea that'
fint should be fitted in the individual as a pair of gloves or a pair of shoes. It is only the occasional woman that buys, hat because it appeals to her for its loveliness in itself. It is only the cecasional woman that wears a bat once bought, with unstudied carefulness at any angle at all. For the hat has become an integral part of the costume. to be selected, filted and.worn with the utmost care as an individual detail, and it is, not infrequently, the keynote on which success depends. It must not be the hat that will "da" because time for the choosing is limited, or the but thus you hope will do, because it is really a beautiful hal, but it must be just the right shape, and size and colour for the purpose at hand-And-it-must-fit the heud. aut only for the confort of the wearer, hut from the viewpolat of the beholder, appearing one hundred per cort perfect from every angle. The choosing of the hat is something of a rite, to be approached with the serious ness it demands, and when "the" hat has been found, it will be a delight to its possessor as long as it remains possibility in the wardrobe.
The Status Of The Cloche Remains Unchanged.
the placement of trimming, there are no models in what one would call medium size. All through the spring there luve been occasional large hats, and as summer approaches they in crease in number, for the very large hat will rival the very nail hat na warm weather appears. The materials of these hats will be the usun! summer? straws and fabrics, and there is a dis- tinct trend toward the straw and fabric combination-bat. No model has the picturesqueness of the brand-brimmed hat, aptly termed the pictare" hat, since it may truly be a picture, or if one wishes, the frame to s picture Flowers, feathers, ribbons and sheer all used effectively in the fabrics large hat mode, and results are almost always dushing.
If une is a bit doubtful-concerning the classification of Uie high-crowned model with its tall ostrich plume, she is justified in that, doubt. It could be a clocha, so far as its brim is concerned, but the crown reflects another fashion, The band af ribbon is a tailored trim. ming, and the willowy plume in no wise detracts from that tailored effect. A smart and acceptable variation of the small hat mode. Three picture hats delight us with their broad-brimmed beauty, the one of tan straw covering
comparatively small crown with ani brown glycerined fancy and cording its It seems almost a waste of words to
edge with matching brown satin. The speak of the tremendous success with which the cloche has met, since Paris brim is uncompromisingly straight, and aucira model should be considered care- first returned its trig smartness to the millinery world, but a review of the fully in relation to the height and the situation would not be complete without breadth of shoulder of its wearer. It some reference to this convenient. in net-for the stout woman, that, is practical and genernily well-liked certain.
Purple straw mukes the unusual fashion. Bobber hair is growing,
model with brim bent back abruptly rather the waring in popularity, and
over the eyCH. One visions the irre it is safe to predict that as long as the gulurity of that brim before it was bobbed head remains, there will be a stendix demand for the cloche in its the re back--it is truly a large mode. many variations, for it is, undoubtedly. feathers are coloured, and soften the outline of the brim. Milan the most universally becoming small hat
and leghorn and hemp and Bangkok, as fashion. It is not often that a stylo
of well as the Incy straws, are all generally outlives the determined efforts famous designer and the persistent familiar, but the panama hat is really #newcomer. It is lovely in the pletur detractions of milliners in general. It
ed hat, its colour a soft tan, its trim- continues to change its ware, but it
ming of feathers brown Il brim Temains, inlubitably, the cloche..
would have been regular, if it had not been turned buck, but it profits by the abrupt flare in front. It is what might be termed a picture hat of the tailored type, for there is nothing of elaboration in the trimming treatment.
Since the war on the cloche has brought forth so many small shapes, interest centres in their vagaries, and their occasional clover smartness. They ae, for the most part, of the roll brim type, though every sort of a brim has appeared and been backed enthusiast!- eally by its designer, who hoped, vainly, to be credited with introducing the fashion-that-would-effectively end the reign of the cloche. High crowns and roll brims have a following, for they are, undoubtedly, mast becoming to certain types; and in nearly every instance the brim in shortered in back, no matter what the style. The very irregular brim is a favourite, and the sharply turned-up brim appears .on many models. Sectional crowns remain, and sometimes they are indicated by the blocking of a straw hat, the effect being much the same:
Trimmings on the small hat, which are of the tailpred type, are very simple and used with a sparing hand. Ribbons, flowers and feathers-the latter includ ing coque, ostrich and pheasant-have formed a triumvirate that seem to rule with 0984. Designers, do, wonderful. things with ribbon, and equally wonder
Feathers Are Stressed In These Modela.
every possible edge, as well as making entire skirts; they fashion evening capes; and they trim slippers, lingerie, 'boudoir apparel and fans. There is no doubt the "fushion of feathers."
It is at this time of the year-when by rights the straw hat should be in its glory that we begin to get smart models in felt and fabric. The felt hat is really an all-the-year-round style, for it haste place in the mode of every season, and few tailored hats are us Butlafactory as the trig little shape of The fabric hat is real reach felt. useful, especially for the woman who has comparatively little use" for a hat, ADENA for the can always be sure A fabric hat Is it is vogue, htrated, and in this model black satin
'GARSARA
MMSLON
ANOS**** UNUSUAL.
BRIM FLARES
-SHAPELYE
is used, and the facing in orange and gold metal brocade, the trimming an astrich fancy. It is a tailored type, of the sort that can be very smart with tailored things, and it is an interesting
INVADES
prophecy of hats to come. The woman. with bobbed hair will find it of special interest, since it is her type of hat-in fact, more hats are designed for her than for any other model.
THE BLOUSE IS AS GOOD ASITS DETAILS
E vagaries of a many-sided, mode, replete with interesting details, have had many interesting results, among them the increased popularity of the blouse. If one is of an analytical turn of mind, the will find several reasons for this, the tailored mode one of the most important, for it made the blouse a nécemity. We have long since grown out of the babit of the tuck-in model, and so designers, were literally forced to tailor the overblouse, and the result must have so far exceeded their expectations that even they were sur- prised. They have made of the slipover blouse a thing so strictly tailored that they dare to call it a "shirt"
Since this is the most important note in the news concerning blouses, it is well to consider it in detall, and con-
It will be noticed that every pictured model features feathers, and the smart women who wear them yield to the fure of feathered accessories, so it may bosidering it as means attention-to-the- concluded that ostrich especially is a details of its fashioning. Not only have favourite with fashion. We are wit- the familiar piques, linens and lawns nessing a ravivni of the "old-fashioned" been, rèvived, but English broadcloth, a' favourite shirt fabric, has been intro- feather boa, and along with it has come the feather edged scarf, both scarf and duced into the mode, and.alks, cropes feathers-vogues! But the scarf, and
the boa and the hat are only three UKES to which they are put, for they appear on frocks-outlining neck, sleeves and
and every possible material that will take to tailored lines have been pressed into survice. While some of the models make use of the tucked bosom, and the
FASHION SHOWS A YELLOW STREAK.
fol things with Bowers, while the plac-NOT 80 long ago A. fashion pro
most important of the four.
#pontored in such ad but sy
So very
shade that it was chosen for the docora ing of a feather or a fancy has become gienade was held in a smart New great a favourite was this particular the work of an artist. Certam tailored York hotel. It was Korgeously -trimminganckies, the hook and eye, beautiful affair, with the most fascinattive effects that adorned the banquet the monogram, the Lob and the motion Thorbia pomno, talliinary cant tables. Any colour that has-bp have, like all fade, a cartais following: woar, and all the accessories of summer and are smart with the strictly tailored attire. There were would be expect will be mire to be a general favourite suit or frock The topdency to backed, many things of interest to tile trimmings is still evident and there aro some brimlese turbans extremely be corning to certain profiles, but hideously unbecoming to many.
fot
devotee of fashion, and the Individual interest centred, naturally, on the items that concerned one personally. Of Interest to everyone, however, featured colours, and while the pro mepads took on something CÍM panoramic appearance, there were cer
and reports from the French Riviera and the Southern winter resorta prove that it has been through the winter holiday season well-led colour.
eva.let'
elf in a contrasting
maanish Taistcoat, others, are curious contradictions; in that they are a com- bination of the dress and the tailored mode. It is not even required that sleeves shall be long-can you imagine the strictly tailored woman of a decade. ago in a blouse that.had short sleeves 7. The strictly mannish tailored shirt is quite likely to have trimly cuffed long sleeves, very snug at the wrist, and to beast a round, club or high collar. The hand-made blouse of valle, in white or some soft colour, is accessary to the tailored mode, and is either face trim.
med or frilled with hand-hemstitched frilis. This type of bluso is also long. sleeved. The bishop sleeve, the peasant sleeve, the short sleeve and the no sleeve blouse are all included in, blouso fashions, the peasant sleeve stressed of late. Just to prove how whimsical fashion can be a crepe de chino blouse has a bosora front composed of frilis of lace, and wears a short sleeve lace edged. And this blouse is listed as "strictly tailored."
round After so many seasons of necklines, quite unrelieved, it is plea- sant to contemplate the variety in neck. Anishes. The plain line of the tailored suit collar is not becoming to all, so the boyish collar called "elab" has been. Introduced, a style that varies very.}" little from the Peter Pan type, except Vin front. that it runs more to s Collarless blousas are no longer uncom promisingly round, but may be square, V-shaped for bateau, and there is a tendency to a higher-finish, especially In the sports or tallored models
The scarf blouse, illustrated here f printed silk, is a definite, fashion in itself, a fashion that it would be hard to escape, considering the popularity, of the scarf detail in the mode. There are many "adaptations of it, and it is an exceedingly. graceful thing with passibilities of adding to the appearance of height. Sometimes, the scart is of the material, bordered with a plain' colours sometimes it is of plain material, hand painted; and fringe is frequently, One smart a factor in its trimming. little overblouse, plain of Ung, short of sleeve and pointed at the neck, basa fringed, hand.pulated scarf as its bolo, decoration
Exquisitely biduses in.An
collarisss models,"
mocked after the fashi allpover, (tuck-in and The colours are brillia:
S. FIE NO SADCADE.
THE WAYS OF SPORTS CLOTHES.
..!
UMMER is, first of all, an outdoor
SUMM
season, which means sports. One may be activo, or one may merely watch the activity of others, but: in either avent sports clothes are in arden So all womankind is interested in thei coats, suits, skirts and blouses, contres, and sweeters of the sports mode--and in the clever acessorios that complementi them. With a wide ranga, of, colours, styles and fabrics, cholee should ba easyIf there is any difficulty ft Htos fr wanting them all, and finding it hard to take the one and leave the others.
I considering fabrics one is made. intimately acquainted with the silks and crepes; fannel-which used to be a winter material only; the tub silks, nif differentiated from the usual sort; and -knit fabrice for nearly everything that any fabric at all can be used. Colours are brillant, and very popular, and white has assumed its place-first, by virtue of its appropriateness-in the summer mode. Linos are straight;; -smart and tailored, and models are commi ceived with an eye to convenience and comfort. The pleated skirt, with over blouse or sweator or sleeveless sweater worn over a tailored blouse, is the costume of activity on links or tennis court, for it permits action, yet is lovely, to look upon.
Flannel makes skirts, entire: frocka and the very smartest sort of coats that take fur collars becomingly. The flannel coat in white or some one of the mený new shades is best with a white fur collar, and fannot capus with fitted or yoked shoulder also have wälte fue collars. One welcomes the season when town life gives place to life in the country or at the shore, if for no other? reason than the opportunity it gives to wear sports things, for they are the acme of camfort and char
DID YOU KNOW.
THAT the profusely decorated highly decorative coat-all fur or braid or embroidery, sometimes all three-in "the" model of the hour? It is becom- ingly straight of line.
THAT a unique fden in household furnishments is a "barrel" atoul of red lacquer with silver or black ornamenta. tion? Such a stool seems to "just belong" with the Mah Jongg outfit.
THAT gold kid has appeared, as, a trimming motif? It adorns hats, shoes, gloves and coats. The same idea in Rometimes expressed with gold braid instead of kidi
THAT a new flat pue, made of aktin, with a border of grosgrain ribbon in vivid Roman stripes, has a smart chain of heavy silver slave links 7.
THAT silk suits, with caps or sleeve. les coats, are replacing the taillour as warm weather approaches? They are to be had in both dark and light colours. THAT a recent fashion show of im- portarce.featured chiffon almost to the exclusion of every other evening fabric, with the possible exception of lace?
collared with plain silk or grossgrain ribbon...
em-
A practical, becoming and youthful fashion is that of the flannel blouse, designed primarily for wear with the flannel suit or skirt. It has a mono- gram, more than likely, and broidered band about the bottom-Paris is very fond of this embroidered border. It comes in lovely colours-Madonna blue, sulphur yellow, orchid, pepper- mint green, tan, gray and red, and seems to possess a welcome newness of style.
One may not forget..the long tunic type of blouse, even in the light of the tailored models, for there is a distinct tendency to the longer suit coat, and even if this tendency never materializes, this fashion has its uses. Many of the models follow the Chinese coat, fasten- ing straight down the front with narrow high collar and either long or short aleeves. There is no more versatile summer fashion than that of the separate blouse und skirt, both inter- changeable, if one is careful of her colour harmonies and contrasts.
Skirts are, for the most part, picated, although there are some straight line. models that show no pleats at all. Flannel skirts have pleats at the aides only, this being done in the interest of: weight, for an all-the-way-round pleat- ed skirt of heavy material would be most troublesome. The crepes and silk fabrics especially silk alpaca-aro attractive, when pleated, and usually the pleats knife, box, or a combination of the two-run all the way round." Cinster effects are popular, and one type of pleating,may form panelsign a skirt. pleated in another style, h
THE NEW SMART VEIL.
vail de a necessary adjunttt costuming Soma Bethars are "who fiel that:no-kat>jn?kutekata; priklju
mistohing TAU KRAJU
who do not and some plats for it lover 6 linere in their hat wardrobes It may be the rall that barely comes to the p of the nouns the well that covers the face or the well that droops gracefully «^over the shoulders; but 'whatever the need, fashion seems to have met it in a new and original wayne
There are circular and half circular wells; painted and velle;}
and background of white or some other colour, and every stagmar brings new copesits and now designa. THE÷blouse is a distinct
Gaiso, and with the exception of the scarf) detaljit lausually its own trimming. *I* 11 dmetimase bound, or cured
THAT the black and white handker chief is no longer ni mourning accessory t It has become part of the tailored cos tume scheme and is of printed or mong grammed crope de chine,
THAT a most original sleavalesm frock features the waistcoat and it may be worn with any version of the tailored blouse? It may be had in alpack, charmeen or crepe astin.
THAT cotton is staging a return brilliantly coloured, printed handker chiefs and wonder of wonderat Smart umbrellas have covorings of cotton black, blue or red?
THAT the draped veil, of embroider od het or lace, la being used to soften severe lines in the newest millinery Very fine chenille and silk chain stitch embroideries are the most popular decorations.
THAT an Imported envelope bag. great beauty is made of silk on which appears an elaborate period painting Designs are varied and carried out with fine colouring and artistry.
The Blouse Appeara WitK
Long Bicores Or Short And⠀ Be High Or Law Of Nack
meshes, coarse meshes and Embroidery is the best liked trimming) | althougfi· fače uproars in, combination with velling frequently. The popula embroideries may cover the veil or formi a-border and it will be noticed thi nearly every yell is a "pattern" Yell ta: valting bought by the Thank cordonnée and fine stitchtry arë, all three, used, okagonal and square meshes ard
„populks backi
and after that the ligh
atred, embroideries on
GET talored frock mat
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