41
SATURDAY AUGUST 18 1924.
THE CHINA MAIL.
The "ROOF-GARDEN"
Frock for
Summer
PROPHECIES.
TF it be logical that a country should, in times of pesce, prepare for War, then it is not logical that womankind should prepare for a coming Helion when there is", bull in the winds of
fashion. Both rules are in the interests of preparedness, and so it is that pro- ducers produce what consumers will, little later consume or the statue nient might be qualified to read that
· producera produce what they hope con- Aumors will consume it is a ficklo public. "It I always looking ahend" cime in the world" of fashion, and tho wise woman is she who lives up to the spirit of the times..
While the silhouette remains, for the linio being most entiafdctorily strplight and alim, Fronen showings of advanced winter models linda use for period styles-- new note the 1880 to 1890 period, with teridency to Princess and fitted effects, as well as the overskirt fashion. 5kirta uré just as short, in some instuitos shorter, than this present season, but there in yet time for a change in that 'respect. There is a decided invitation on the part of French designers to feature the three-piece costume uit called the "enatume" to distinguish it from the suit. The coats of these costumes vary in length some finger-tip, others kuco length. They are a little or a lot, s the eike may be; and the belt has reappeared.
Coats are long and beltless in the showing of one famous bouse, with nị seam down the centre of the backşi while another house varies this idea with a hem line shorter in front thun in back; rounded front edges; and sue- closing, fastening at the hip, Fue AN very generally used in all the show-
BID4
There Are Many New Ideas and Variations of,
the Mode-All Have As a Foundation"
the Straightline Silhouette.
Lightsome Materials And Soft Coloury.
سما
the work! g] WHILE half of
ventioning, the other half stapa at home, finding delight in weekend All the loveliest and most lightsame trina and the many pleasures that the of the stummer materials have been city affords. And it not infrequently, pre-crypted for these little fracks that happens that the, stay-at-home gets are useful while they are prophetia. quite as much pleasure out at the Chriflons and Georgelte, or either the Sammer months as the newbiegers, em or the other in combination with away, opinions to the contrary. And satin or lace; Ince; tulle; the soft silks; while her setivities inay differ sunte alic; fulgurante and bemaline are what--they do, of course--her, wardrobe featured, and besides the details of will not be so very differs from that their unusual lines they employ bead. of the ventionist. She will have her ines, appliques and enbroideries; swim at the shore; her ride in the ostrich, marabou and pompous; and park of a morning; and her daytime
tons,
fringes, pleatings, rates and scensions will call for practically the anekings. Their enlours are all the same type of clothes sports, after. "Shacks of all the colours that are love- noon and evening. But the woman: fiest; white: black and white; and--- wto
stays at here has been responsible newest in Paris--all black They are for thus haut astly been termed the first and foreinost, summer models, tu "roof garden frock, sier it is her fre worn and enjoyed na such, with cholce for wear when she tras, ur dinos so thought of what the future holds and dances, in the roof ancient of soane, isture for fashion, or fashion holds jumart hold, the initer a substitute, in isture for the future,
11.11 n. way, for the suntry club that The Th1 ounces are really a part of 50-away woman frequents. Not this the minds the frock of this fabric, with type of fenek will interest the woman deep-lace douner pointed at the top, who teas, or dues graph dates, at den gifi prove. It also shows the prevail- country club, since it is equally attracing tendency to uneven hem lines, but tive for her parjugis.
is a keeps to the tube silhouette. Tho
nomewhat dressy afternoon, 45 a samey pointed effect-ul neck and where the what simate evening, medel, and its dounce joins the skirt, is different and purposes are lo; no ineghs confined in the how of wide satin ribbon mids a either country club or punt garden pleasing rate of colour contrast and The term is merely relativi,
Another emphasizes straight lines. New Mudes Arry To
fruik employe tulle for its Bounces Way, Prajkatie.
the material that has been, until The sumner Track sils comfortably recently, the prerogative of the ballet, betwees the motel that was spring's, although there is no reason why its and th somewhat mysterius del fragile beauty should not adorn frocks that will be autumn's. It retains the for general wear in the afternoon or
A
best of the former, and is proplistic, it | evening. The inevitable scarf is, in
no small degree, of the latter, so that this ense, attached to the waistline, and!
it is, albugether, an interesting com- it forms the only trimming on the bination. It has been stated again and
waist.
It grace
is
its
PPOPHESYING Food and
AND WIDE HENT
ZULLE DESERTS
THE BALLET
سور مجرے کی تو کر کے گھر
FASHIO
CEDENCE TO BLACK AND WHITE
SPAIN
WHISPERS
THIROUGH
{SILHEN
FRINGES
plice
ings. Every showing, eeems to favour Georgette at a fabric for bath after-
noon and evening wehr; retain, tho,
scarf as a detail and far as a trimming
Buttons have lost non of their
|rapolarity: tunics, remming und the
Leireglar uut is very genufelly apparent
One may store, nway her winter
things quite aufely Shay, nienamphor-wood
chest. Thèse chosta come from China
and are extremely decorative, for they bre covered with pigsin and havon | brass, clusps and handles.
COILE CAPTURE FASHION'S FANCY
Yeni fabres 'oi, fhentum ment very work. These frocks may be worn over Hittle to the average woman. coloured sign-ofs or silhoteen-- excepting, of course, as their beauty and profit by the combination of.
feulous. There are many kinds of xoil or colduring attract or rupol." She that are decorative in themselves, the givea little thought to their smurves, į patterns being woven into the material whether they are old or new, a revival in such a way that they simulate hand
ram improvement. finding them printed on.
drawn work, or designs may be usule or not, and dismissing them that of the flock-to patiem, nees
Dotted vulles, expecially
front her thoughis: Vet the season. meeting with favour, and the whole to-season progres of many of our family ranks high in the courts of fusion. The most populué trimming- smurtext fabrics has been really of outside of hand work is lace; and Interest, for some material that hadselt trimmings, especially refies ure but a sugle has proven its value well-liked. in other ways until it is a recognize factor in many fashions. A fabric lost and has kept pare with shlon and for a while, then revived again, is likely the shionable silhouette. With lines
been a gradual, het gratifying process,
The fabric evolution of lingerie 'has
A
ta profit by its vacation from the ranks as straight as it is possible for lines.
of fashion, returning much improved | to be, undurthings must be us light of for its rest. Other fabrics have gained weight no possible, and sheer materials headway without the vacation, insgruv are in demand. It is not powaible for: jing with each season and gradually all of us to wear glove silk, sheer
assuming a place of importance. Such chiffon or Georgette--they are, in la fabric is volle,
way, luxuries, and the latter two | require more, care in laundering than Summer demands sheer materials, the busy, practical woman en spare. and gets them. Therefore any sheer So is in obvious that a cotton fabric, material has an excellent chance
flight of weight and sheer, yet passers- popularity, if it can dish lay claim to ing excellent, wearing qualities would a reasonable practicality. That is w meet with a delighted reception from why Georgette crepe is a much more)
lore every woman that loves daintiness, yet popular than thifon-it seems almost insists on practicality. There are still
us fragile, but wears much better in folk old-fashioned enough to thin estton fabrics the nearest approach to linen is not clean unless it is boiled. chiffon or Georgette is voile, and it for them there are the Arm white voiles possesses the wearing qualities of the that stand this clonnsing
provesy later, with much of the appearance- admirably. in the finer veuves--of the former.
Flower tints in lingerie.outnumber Moreover, it comes in colours su beauti-the all-white pieces in every fabric and ful that they are a snuru, not for the their charm is not, missing from the unwary, but for everyone, and thevoile models that are scen in every subsequent cupture is pleasant indeed,
ped, smurt shop. It in, undoubtedly, a voller When the garment of volle must come season, and the workmanship and in for hard wear, one need not be tailoring is perfection, Indestructible skeptical of ever the daintiest shade valle of the chiffon variety is the fabric for so autisfactorily has the art of of which the pictured modela are mado, "tinting in the tub" progressed, that it and both prove that designers "trent is quite possible to keep the shade this inaterial exactly as they would uniform, even with many washings. more coxtly fabrics, using real sees
Voile is a fabric that in equally appropriate for morning or afternoon wear. It fashions both simple and claborate models, though many prefer- the foriner, where devoration takes the form of hemstitching and hand drawn
CARING FOR "BOBBED HAIR.
again, and the statement has been At Arst glance the fringed modet verified, that the fundamental of the
reminds of Spain, but it is for no other mode is the straight line silhouette, | reason than the fringes themselves, for and nothing so far indicates a resum the dress itself shows an inclination, to for changing, or even modifying the be farm-fitting, thus adopting another statement. There are tendencies, but of the new ideas. there always are, and no one of them charm, and it becomes a general seems worth more than a casual glance. fashion, it will, of necessity, ba N ment ur necessary. · It may be no out- Later some of the prophecies may limited one as to the types to which it growth of the costume out, this 7 become tities, but they provide will be becoming. A well-rounded costume idea, but i ha nu extremely nothing more at present than a little slenderness will be imperative, and the satisfactory one. One seen it in the pleasant anticipation. “
frock itself will have to be draped by matching hat and scarf; the outfit that TN his stirring go when every
who has had her hair carefully mar Lurking in the 'background, 'this' a master hand or it will be a failure centang hat, seart, parasol and hand- woman, young or akl, who has not celled or water waved essays a straight Directoire line may be glimpsed, but it Suggestive of the bouffant, as waist to bag: the very new iden of shoes the babbed her hair is either tentatively or bob, and. it is, nine times out of ten, has been there for several months now, hem ruffes always are, the medal in colour of the frock; or the matching actively considering it, the woman who unsatisfactory and unbecoming. Few and au yet has made no noticeable pro- yellow chiffon makes use of a deeper of one or more necessarien to a note af has inher: the step is solving the many indres are the women who look well gress into the limelight. Details of tone to bring out the delicacy of the trimming on the gown. There is no problems that the deed has brought with absolutely straight hair, whether this mode appear now and then, antice- lave pattern. The shoulder treatment rainsaying that this theme makes for if the tools the step dam in the belief it be short or long. There are wavers ably in a high waistline or Hying may have been influenced by the nurineus, and the well-dressed woman, that she could, forthwith, put her
that
are designed for babbed hairs expelut, but in out-and-out all-Diret-French designer who has introduced this season, is sure to have event cropped trees wholly out of her mind, there is the marcci; and there is the toire incdel ls, so far, appeared. A patches of material about the sleeve, carefully thought out ensembles in her she is suffering disillusionment, fur permanent wave. The permanent famous French costumer is dullying, above and under the hem, bat it is
wardrobe.
along with the comfort and the general wave, is of course, the most xati in hle showing of advanced winter departure from the usual thing, which
air and feeling of youth that bobbed factory salution, but be sure it is models, with the 1880 to 1800-toes, the in welcome.
hair is quite sure to bring goes the expertly done, while you are taking the influence appearing in fitted
Always In Fashion-Black And
necessity for its conditioning and care, step. both just as necessayas before the The permanent wave must have care, although it is with the happy feeling Any hair dresser will tell you that of pure results that one goes about the
Nothing except neglect the first "bob" is not, as a rule, the curing.
#ni
princess frets. One must realize that
such un innovation enn be, at best, only
prescut time."
White.
No season wears to its close that
DID YOU KNOW-
AT the newest necklace is called The Nonchalant," and is warn
hair was cut,
*
an influence. as the silhouette of that black and white does not come in for period was very different from the attention. Since the combination is slim, ungarseted, hipless lines of the seasons old, it beconies, nectssary forke u keurf or a girdle? It la of pourts final one-by. "Annl" is meant style, deatroys its beauty. Frequent kham.
designers to find a new interpretation opruted by knots, each end of the Ringe usoryqne knows that the huir pooing, the hot bath, dampnrès-all 1 They wore, in those days, the of it. This seems to have been accom strand being aeparated by an cherak!,.} must be kept at the proper length and Judd to its perinanenco; and it has to "both"; the "domina"; agaris; capes plished in the straight line model of and Bounces below the knee-line, the white with, n, panel formed by black amethyst or a kapphire.
the next must be kept clipped, if the grow but the slowness or rapidity with which one's hair grows dotor. THAT the Agutel Hedvi is bring
well-groomed lalter with a tendency toward the back lines running from V-neck to hem
appearance is to be of the skirt. The general effect of the The monstong of these lince le relieved replaced by the seat of white with reininers Trou in a plent or talk out mining its life. The first tendency to fashionable frock many be one of ha- by a row of black and white buttons. a broad band of bright colour at both the possibility of bulines, as a result fuzziness should not be discouraging,
ende?
The colour will match the plicity, but that simplicity is gradually The belt is black edged with white. As
of shorn lerks, but in reality there and if the owner of a permanent ways disappearing, and when one questions a smart accessory we have the scarf of smart felt or suede hat.
should be less possibility of this un-will minke nse of a set of the comba the reason for a disappearance it is black, with stripes and aquires of THAT hets are not only back but desirable condition, since short hair is designed for water waving, the will very aliortly have a splendidly, well- and are growing wider all the while? Felt ensier to keep clean, to brush and to
trained and satisfactory head of hair. Bobbed hair, then, should be waved they
ahow bindings, perforations
or curled, if it is not becoming straight. moré empecially when it has been per- manently waved, and should be brushal. and excrcized with the same regularity
when it was long.
to be found in lines that ripple, as white to relieve its sombreness. flounces do; Ince that suggest fulness; link it with the froth.
combined with leather is now it after the
hair has been It should be shampooed frequently,Į
oddly matching cuffs and collars; This is typical of what is fittingly and wool and leather lichery.
is, with many, a feeling of. Fearfe and caple linge. In contrast to called the ensemble," a fashion that THAT a, now bathing eap, moulded babbod. thia, some of the newest frocks present has been growing steadily in promin
Perhaps the result is not beltless silhouette that is no longer ence since the beginning of the season. in eng place, has a deeply recess rar exactly what was expected, but in this tube-like, but inclined to be farm-fitting Onestaraly seo a garment, these days, pocket to keep the water out of the event the o' are several things that —there we have the princess idea....... that is not linked to some other car and remove pressure?
may be done.
Too often the woman
as trimmings, putlinganet, quibjoi deries and all the types of fine hund work The touch of blackillustrated --un the combination ixenical of the henson's their for a bit of black on underwear, and some time are who enjoy the differentness of all black lingerie. It is not, however, jî general fashion, nor lay it likely to become one.
Counterfeiting Chiffon Or Georgette,
· A Chiffon Volle Proves Its Right To A Rich Lace Banding.
Black Chantilly Laen Winds. Its Interesting Way Over A Slim Yelle: Combinationita Colour Flesh."