SATURDAY JULY 26 1924
THE CHINA MAIL.
The Sweet Girl Graduate
COMBINATION OR NEZ.
SY BARBARA
WINSLOW
AND GEORGETTE, CHEBA
Boyish Lincs the Prerogative of the Junior
in Every Day's Activities
Apparel a Factor.
Camp
MATURE fashions may had much the youthful mode, its dalty crisp. that is advantageoas, m the teen gracing both the graduation and fashions of youth. On the ether "land", the gate frock. The pictured frock of youth my borrow the fashiova od j this "material is nothing less than the maturity and wear them with a most very esśque of youth, with its satin.. seductive charm, for si are the modes | edred' underskirt and its petulled over- of the one en rapport with the wades jiskirt. The satin ribbon forma u girdle of the other Designers arem to be that ends in a chou of the tulle, and a finding the junior of grent interest, for new "ale vo" teatmesi achieved by while the keynote of her appariling the flower strap at the shoulder Lace must be, first of all, suitability, a wider and satin ribbon form the Sole nina- olour muge and a greater diverfity in mentation of the model"in Georgette lines is possible since your wears Latepe that his three rows of Ince colour not only gayly but with a-certain rutes, three in a row, separated by assurance of becomingress, and her a deep tuck of the material. The lace slimness presupposes both slender and trimined under bolice is in keeping bouffant nes. The modes for the age with the trimming on the dress, and between little girlhood and young the girdle of autin ribbon afforis a womanhood-the "uge We cu!!
aceted contempt. between-are reassurdngly simple, get they serve to conceal the awkward growing period that is, to say the least. most difficult. And the his designed for both the junior and the high school graduate are a true expression of chiche edge bests three lace comes that
and jaunty smartness, of what may he uptly termed the "nenie" of youth.
Graduation Brings The First
Trousseau.”
The young girl's interest in her graduation attire is akin te x of the bride in her wedding trousseau, or, like the Eride, she is opening the dear to a new life. If she is a junior, her frock may mean the first even go as well as a graduation dress, and it is the first true expression of her individually. It may be that the class is to date to white; is may be that colours are to be, allowed; or it may be that a certain uniformity of line, material and expense is to be foliewed. Bat whether the dress be cotton or sk; the colour white or some preferred shade; the cost limited or unlimited, there is no doubt of the interest the ehousing and wearing will excite.
Lace and Georgettes again combine to charm in a dress could", never be
called anything but ringle, yet has no trage of pluinness. The scalloped
the
are repeated again just below waistline, which is defined-by- double rule of the lace. There seems to be an tempt to strike a vote of individuality even the sleeveless type of "gown, und the antin bare ion is, somehow, relieved. Truffles of the lace perform thie grateful service in the pictured model, la amber nodel art is made an ally of lace, and Georgette, the lutter faintly coloured. This Freck is
fine expression of the bouffant moin, the front panel made of wired net and lace, the Intter matching the narrow lucu ruffies on the skirt and at the neck and sleeve edge. A wide. satin sash-of the sort tit deserves
titute-completes the picture. the name of sush and is not a sub-
A rather more mature model-one that will surely became a dance frock when graduation day is, over-ho a shirt made entirely of ruffics, gradunt- ing, too, since they are wider at hem
Certain fabrics, usually of the than waistline. The bodice is uncom sheer, dainty type are the logical wear tarul the sole trimming is of promisingly plain-only youth could choice for graduation. Loveliness is imperatixbut so, tor, is practicality, So readily seen that while there are the bow and lower motif type. It will and, the usual choice of material is the
variations, there is a type of frock type that may be satisfactarily cleaned, laundered or dyed, when it has reached that best becomes the sweet girl
graduate. While Georgette seems
and adaptable, where muslin has is as lovely as shear voile, for it is soft
hind of its own.
a stage where it may be no longer prime favourite, so far as the chosen worn
it is. Georgette voile, models are concerned, other materials and crepe de chine, while their initial
Are very generally in use, and for the cost may be more,
Rre materials of the type that give excellent service inexpensive graduation frock no fabric from the point of view of wearability, and both dyo excellently well. If n colour-such as maize, turquoise, coral or soft green-ar plain white is used, a dress may be dipped a deeper tint. when soiled, then dipped a second and even a third time with great succes
But After Graduation There ́Are Other Days
RIBBON
PETAL
PHOTOS "
مد الله ان موحد
FEDER
THE
pipings and linings, when it comes to THE CHIFFON FROCK. trimmings. It is very genctully
t
TRIFLES
WERE
ZEVELESS FROER. WITH REAL CHARN
LIGHT AS AIR FASHION
THIS, THAT AND
THE OTHER THING.
THERE is always reason for
revivals. survival-though they are not always the fittest-and things wholly new, There are reasons, too, for Bearihle things, for senseless things, and things for which there is nuithur thyme or reason, apparently. If we do not go into these reasons deeply, then it is because we do not stop to question our likes and our dis likes, but these self same reasons, aro" bound to prove of Interest if brought to our attention in a concrete way. It is seating, and restful, to tum eway from the beaten paths of fashion, once in a while, and consider the "source or the inspiration of the whimsics of the mode, whether they compol our admiration or interest. not at all.
Mardly
accessory - unusual though it bebet has a reason for being; hardly a fashion but may be traced back to another period os another land or people. Briefly, then, let us go out into the highways an byways of fashion forsaking, for a time, the beaten paths, and study reasons and sources. We were bored to death with things Egyptian--their vogue attributable to the discovery of a tomb in Brypt-with scarabs, sphinxes and mysterious hieroglyphics, so designers sought another land of 'colour and richness of design and re- introduced China to us. Promptly wo transferred our allegiance from the one to the other, then forgot the one.
Fashion goes by contrarics, for fashion is a busineis, first of all, and were there no change, there would ba no business or fashion! After a season of brilliant colours-a season of black, and a happy absence of colour tragedien the law of contrast. Variety, too, is n factor, and when we are about to accept the straightline silhouette to The Anclusion of any other, the modes of 1000, of 1880 and the Second Empire ure zvived. Spain-gives us lace-it is always fashion there; Persia and the contries of the Far East give us embraideries Rembrandt gives us certain shade of green and Whistler: a ubtle combination of black and brown, can roth, black and brown.
When it became style to wear as and bracelets es was consistent with. Unetrength fashion was hard put to ituet the demand, and someone Thought of the Piave tiles and put the dea into an ornament, and, it has been adapted tổ the fob and the necklacu and the handbag. The 1830 and 1880 fashions in dress influenced hair dress- ing and hats and were responsible for increased interest in earrings-se, does one fashion mike another.
Fashions of a century ago-revived have popularized the gauntlet glove one to preach a fashion,pf the Chinese Kanlurins. Crystal
with decorated cuff, and the idea of sermon on the acetasorion of the beads, in long necklaces and short,
wearing a short love with a short mode. the little things that accent choker rings that have drops in sleeve followed in order. The foun personality and emphasizes ruecollarette style, are vogue, and con- mental reason for it all is the need, theme of the cuntame, there would be tending for pupularity with the arti- or shall we say demand, for change. a reasonable doubt when it comes to firini pearl necklaces, we have the It keeps designers und fashion pro the correct text for the discourse. For strings of pearl and crystal beads;
dacers
constantly on the alert to meet in its own particular place and relution. Mah Jonge necklaces Dvuti-coloured that destand, they search the pages of each separate detail seers first in ira beads have carved pendants depending history, the galleries of museums; the portance ind. there is the pimist of from them; metal fingree with beads--appareling-of-far-off countries, and the fashion virtue in a clover costume or imitation semi-precious and precious Resessay, no matter how snill, or stones appear on dark frocks; and Jagniflent it may seem. And this black, bugle bits sternate with particular season, when une heurs crystal rondels and vice vereon. inuch of the tailored" and the "hayish" modes, there is no lessing rather a quickening, of literest in the trifes that assure perfection,
It may suce for the time, however, to dwell an beads, which are not con-
There are metal filagree brazelela,
with colored stones, slave link and bangle bracelets, and the flexible, atone- sudded bracelets that bring out the calour in the costume. Earrings are everything from the Mat ear buttons |fined, as one may think, to any, single to the long drops that depend from the type of usecesory, but extend to many, ears and reach clmost to the shoulders. -and-sweep-everything-before-then-in- |-The-Czecho-Slovakiana, noted-for-their- their course. Hearing the word one beautiful work and designs in jewelry, muy think of the necklace of beads; have revived the cld-fashioned garnet the bag of beads;, the bead-trimmed pieces, and their offerings include bug or frect:; of any one of a dozen neeluces, earrings, bracelets, pendants of things into which this simple little and brooches of really exquisite lovell- of composition muy enter, bringing nest, and the real reproductions are es in its walte not only gay colours, but scaree they are smart. Flexible individuality. The bead has been jewel-studded bandeaux-one mcANS responsible for the elimination of imitation jewels, of course Jewelled costly jewelry from the wehome of camba; alippor buckler; jewelled tebe things, so far as the average woman is for the tailored mode; and odd, bar- concerned. She has come to depend on baric pieces of lever design; all came costunie, jewelry instead, the type that under the general head of costume may be worn with the costume for jewelry, and their existence is attribut- which it was purchased, then cast aside, able to the fashion of colourful bends. with no irreparable injury to one's pocket book.
.bit
For many seasons now, we have had the beaded bag as a lovely part of All costume jewelry is not made up the hand bag mode. There is really of beads-fur from it but beads first nothing in fashion more trály beautiful
·lent the touch of colour that costumers than a picture or tapestry bag woven found so effective, and straightway the of fine beads, and to the French wo vogue for costume jewelry was born, must give credit for the loveliest of It is worn in the hair, on the arms, in them all. There are three generally the ears, about the neck and on the accepted types of this handbag fashion Ahoes; it brightens the dull frock, the the pouch with drawstring; the strictly tailored, mannish walking suit; envelope, and the bag that depends and scintillates on gorgeous evening from a mutal frame, two of them apparel. is the dance
All three The fashionable woman is appropriately Dlustrated. Wearing long, strings of largé bonds—a | In their admirers, though just at fashion that is Chinese in origin, for present the envelope and the s-draw- ropes of beads are part of the costume string types seem to be favourites over
the third.
The popularity of the envelope type attributable. perhaps, to the
accepted fact that whether the tricks a vogue--the chiffon frock, no be of gingham or chiffon, of almple ordught about it. coniplicated lines, the workmanship is frock fashion for today and the fine, and, there is little difference in to-morrow that is summer, and this the detalls of making between the Exquisite material is interpreted in many lovely ways, expressing youth in garments of mother and daughter"
Practical sports clothes, whether like, is fires; its colour loveliest when its soft folds. Its texture, while fairy- one's summer includes a real cump or flower-like er pastel shaded; and it is is spent at the shore, are a necessity adaptable to practically every mode.
Horal
in every young girl's wardrobe, and There are printed chiffons;
chilions; wood-black and two-hued they are worthy of the most careful chiffons; lace-trimmed, lace-velled and consideration. They are built. along ostrich-trimmed chitton; all loveliest, day in the calendar of youth.
But graduation day is not the only Jaunty, trim, shapely lines, and include all most desirable, according to their
When
its lines or trimming being changed the valedietary and salutatory have tweed knickers; sleeveless Nortoitness to the Individual need.
with cach dipping so that it will be wholly unrecognizable..
beun said and the well-won diploman have been awarded, a chapter has been The usual model for this purpose is closed with another about to begin. simple in its fashioning, and there are
And the summer trousseau of "her who few modes that are denied the young has graduated" will contain delightful girl, Her frock may be simple and frooks of taffeta, pongee, flowered straight of line' follow the bouffant silks and printed chiton and eropa da mode with falled skirt and narrow shine, ar of linen, voile, flannel, ging- bodice waist. Tiers, flounces and, ham or crepes the occasion is ruffles, dented to so many
fastive or ordinary, sports or work-a- mature Agures, become her greatly, and shy day. The jumper dress is a favourite wear trimmings of tucks, hand- | with youth, for it means a fascinating work, fabric flowers, laves, pleats and array of separate blouses of the tallor- ribbons with the assured feeling that ad, easily laundered aort. The cape they are most beconsing. Laco, a prime costume is another favourite, for there favourite with the senior mode, is is somelling about the Jaunty swing equally favoured by the junior made, of the former that apposin to the being especially smart me an edging youthful faney.
may
Chiffon makes the straight fine frock Ruits of linen, tweed or Jean; miiddies and full-pleated bloomers; or plain or the bouffant frock, and it is equally lovely in the ruffled frock, Chiffons in shirts and middies to be worn inside the new shades of banana, orchid the nickers. It is a question of silver gray, mist blog and Rese of France wear lurge embroidered towers personal taste and comfort-the choice, and have matching scarfs, embroider- but that some such outfit will be in-
ed, too! are trimmed with ripple cluded in the wardrobe-for hiking flounces of Jace: whiri circular and other active sports or for week-end flounces; for combine two or moro camping is cortain. It is a far cry lovely shudes of 11 single colour.. from the laces and Georgettes of Ostrich, a popular danco frock trim- graduation day to the twoods and ming, la Juvely on this fabric, and the linens of outdoor sports, but not so far ostrich bos in necessary to the chiffon that the cry may not be heard.
frock mode.
DID YOU KNOW-
for ruffles and, flounces, or to entirely Coats of invisible or "s
"shadow fashion the raffles. There no trim plaids; twill cloths" in badger, tan or HAT fringes of silk or ribbon-zene self colour? ming lovelier and nans that le more poppermint green plaid
Morosque, dawn, gun in keeping with the fabric and spirit materials, with pipings in plain colour novelty
make, panels on afternoon froska metal, ambra and nude are the colours: ...of the graduation frock.
THAT the flannel "sport: ensemble" on. cape and collar; and real English and form pointed tiers or the entire top coats are all a beautifully tailored skirt of evening gowns! They also in vogue? It consists of aleavelpas and finished as the models designed form borders on both scarf and gown Jacket, utralklit, and snug fitting at the for maturity, and there is a wide choice " THAT the smartest silk hosiery ships, and pleated or panelled sicirk. of silk braids and stitchings, tockings, clocked, and the newoat clocks, aro. The two places may be worn bands of contrasting colour, gay, Jacquard, wovon in brocade effect in separately.
Pjeturesque Litt Models Prove The Mode
Tulle is no longer the prerogative
of the ballet, but has found a place in
A Filagres Bracelet With Rock Crystal
„Medallion. Drop - Bajring=
Green Gold, With Matrix:
Of
*[
popularity of the under-the-arm" bog that has been so popular for several seasons phat. It may be equaro or oblong; large or small; guy or dull of tono; but it is finely woven and delicately patterned. Ita texture, though not its pattern, la very like the drawatring bag in the illustration.. Rivailing the all-beaded bag we have the model of fabric, intarastingly bead- ed or embroidered, or both in combinu- tion. It may be silk or velvet, and boads may make a solid pattern or form only a tracery, but it is a worthy substitute for the beaded bag, and some prefer it to the latior. And whether the bag be all of bends or bead embroidered, it is a proof positive which no one can deny-thal beads Juve a place in fashion, especially in fashion details.
customs responsible for that apparel- ing. One fushian leads to another, since details and accessories must ba consistent. Many of the ideas are good-and stay; many are senseless...... and pust, and thus it is that fushion lives.
Beads Have Extended Their Interest To The Ender-The-Arm Bag, The All Bend Bug Remainu......
· OF WHAT A VEIL.
O delicataly fine mats in hexagonal
Of an importance so great that they
az square mosh, la black, brown - are frequently the only trimming on and- navy or two tone effects, with
the hat, the elaborately bordered vaill embroideries in many colours on dark being used as a trimming, the neces coloured grounds ay magan
Of grant beauty in their strimmings, Pary colour threaded into the embroi especially when chenillo, cordonnet, | deries. They are square, scarf-liko chafi katitch; or, Allover,embroideries circular, half-clicular, or have pointed ard the decorative motif used. Lace ends, and are usually pattern plecem forms a border for many of the trim- rather than the type, that là 'bold' feg ring vella.
the yard.