1
西環七臺 永昌香燭文具 鐘聲慈善社 牛房 ／屠房
The Seven Terraces Wing Cheung Joss Sticks Chung Sing Benevolent Cattle Depot / 3
of Sai Wan and Candles Society Slaughterhouse
公民村 新杜洪記山貨竹器 魯班先師廟 雞鴨欄
Kung Man Village New To Hung Kee Mountain Goods Lo Pan Temple Poultry Laan
西環邨 奇香村茶行 西環盂蘭勝會 焚化爐
Sai Wan Estate Kee Heung Chun Tea Company Sai Wan Yu Lan Festival Incinerator
聯邦新樓 吳江南國術體育會 長者服務中心 公園
Luen Bong Apartment Ng Kwong Nam Martial Arts Elderly Service Centres Park
Gymnasium
5
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序 堅 尼 地 城座落港島西端，靠住太平山山麓，依著摩星嶺，面向 有人就有舖。湯漢泗一家從五十年代尾開辦紙紮舖，屹立至今，
卑路乍灣。龍 脈 所在，風 水之地。早於 一八 八四年，已有學 藝 反映中國人 拜 祭 鬼神 傳統，根 深 蒂固。每 年的魯班 誕 和盂 蘭
徒弟建成魯班先師廟。堅尼地城的命名沿於第七任港督堅尼地 勝會傳統祭祀，這裡 歷久不衰。茶文化亦是中國人養生之道，
Arthur Edward KENNEDY（1872-1877）
，此 地 緊 握 出 入 維 多 無論貧富，都要飲茶。奇香村茶行在卑路乍街已逾半個世紀，
利亞港的西部咽喉，英治初期是艦隊進入香港必經之地。英人 林 文聰 老板 細訴當年。堅 尼 地 城的 行業 五 集 紛 陳，手藝 行業
在摩星嶺設有炮台哨站，守住這要寨。同時，成為物資從珠江 應運而生。杜氏家族在魚市場鄰近開了山貨竹器，自製竹 籮，
三角洲過來的補給要地。 應付盛載 漁 產的殷切需求。碼頭「咕喱頭」最喜 歡習武，鍛 練
體格，應付 繁重的體力勞動。這一帶有許 多武館，亦武亦醫。
以往，堅 尼 地 城 海旁至 上環 三角碼頭 是 全 港 糖、米、油、鹽、
元旦舞獅，少不了他們。
醬、醋、茶的集散地。倉庫、碼頭遍佈岸邊。牛棚、菜欄、果欄、
雞 鴨 欄、豬 羊 欄、屠房、魚市 場、焚化 爐 樣樣 俱 存。工人 腳踏 如今，在堅尼地城走走，昔日的欄已不復見。那種小艇、工人、
獨木橋板，挑著重 重的擔，一彈一彈地從貨船走下，正 是藝高 木 頭 車 的 雜 亂 和震 天 的 喧 嘩 已 成 歴 史。除了一 些 老 舖，只有
人 膽 大，場 面觸目驚 心。清晨，木 頭 車、貨 車；工人、買 貨 的、 街 道 沒 變。婉 霞 講 的厚 和 街 和 科士街；蔡 利 達、林 太 和兒子
賣 貨 的，橫 衝 直 撞，叫 聲 震 天。那 種 墟 冚 情 景，畢 生 難 忘。 林長 健、李 世業憶 述 的堅 尼 地 城 新 海旁街 等，都見 證了這份
英人把堅 尼地城當作環頭環 尾，支援發展。英泥廠、煤氣鼓、 滄桑。
以 至 殮 房 都 在 此。六十 年代 開 始，焚化 的「三支香」
，更破 壞
眾人的回憶勾勒出堅尼地城變遷的軌跡，亦感謝香港賽馬會慈善
風水。到近十年，「三支香」才被拆卸。
信託基金的資助使本書得以出版。此書為堅尼地城的變遷史補
由英軍在一八四二年於「佔領角」（即上環水坑口）登陸，佔領 上一筆。值得一讀。
香港，英軍盤踞西營盤，守堅尼地城，港島西部人流物流漸多，
社 區 隨 之而成。李 陞 及子 李 寶 龍 是 最早 在 此 發 展「豪宅」及
遊 樂園，座落七 臺山，可謂高瞻遠矚，得先 機。何國祥憶述的 熊永達博士， M.H.
西 環七 臺填補了這段 歷 史。杜月冰描繪的公民村是勞苦大眾 長春社文化古蹟資源中心主席
的樂土，與七臺山相映成趣。阿娟口中的西環邨和徐先生講的
聯邦新樓是五六十年代建的公屋和私人 屋邨，整個堅 尼 地 城
由唐樓和平房屋，搖身變成高樓林立的社區。
7
FORWARD Kennedy Town is at the west end of Hong Kong Island. It is Since the British landed on “Possession Point” (i.e. Shui Hang
located underneath Victoria Peak, adjacent to Mount Davis and Hau of Sheung Wan) and occupied Hong Kong, they had been
facing Belcher Bay. It is a place where the “dragon line” passes garrisoning in Sai Ying Pun and fortifying Kennedy Town. The
and has good fengshui . As early as 1884, there were already western part of Hong Kong Island began to flourish with the
craft apprentices constructed Lo Pan Temple. Kennedy Town increasing flow of personnel and resources. Hence, a community
was named after the 7th Hong Kong Governor, Arthur Edward was formed. LI Sing and his son LI Po-lung were the earliest to
KENNEDY (1872-1877). This land is located on the western bank develop “luxury apartments” and amusement park on the Seven
of the chokepoint of Victoria Harbour, and was the gateway for Terraces. They had great foresight and could thus seize the new
Her Majesty’s Fleet during the early stage of British colonial rule. opportunities. HO Kwok-cheung’s memory filled the gap of this
On Mount Davis, the British built gun batteries and outposts to part of history. TO Yuet-ping’s narration of Kung Man Village, on
defend this stronghold. At the same time, Kennedy Town served the other hand, illustrated a paradise of the working class which
as an important supply port in the Pearl River Delta. contrasted interestingly to the Seven Terraces. Sai Wan Estate
as mentioned by Ah Kuen and Luen Bong Apartment revisited by
In the past, from Praya of Kennedy Town to Wing Lok Wharf
Mr. CHUI were two distinctive public and private residential
of Sheung Wan, this piece of harbourfront was the entrepot of
e s t a te s b u i l t i n t h e 19 5 0 s a n d 6 0 s . T h e y r e f l e c te d t h e
all food in Hong Kong with warehouses and piers all along the
transformation of Kennedy Town from a settlement of short
coast. Cattle depots, vegetable and fruit market, poultry laan,
tonglau and squatter huts into a town with high-rises.
slaughterhouse, fish market and even incinerator plant could
all be found in Kennedy Town. Coolies walked to and fro narrow Where there are people, there are shops. The TONG family
gangways to unload goods from cargo ships. You would hold your opened a paper crafting shop since the 50s and is still in business
breath watching them linewalking on the thin wooden planks nowadays. The Chinese tradition of deities worshipping is still
with heavy burdens on their shoulders. In the morning, wooden rooted in the public. The traditional celebrations for the birth
carts and lorries hustled down the roads while workers and of Lo Pan and Yu Lan Festival continue to thrive in this part of
dealers cried their sales. Such a bustling scene was a memory Hong Kong. While tea culture being the Chinese way of healthy
for a lifetime. The British considered Kennedy Town the edge living, tea has been a household necessity for all walks of life,
of city and thus designated it with a supportive role to urban which is nicely explained by Derek LAM, the young boss of the
development. Cement factory, gasholder and mortuary were all half-century old Kee Heung Chun Tea Company. Kennedy Town
thrown into this place. Starting from the 60s, there added the gathered many types of business, and handicraft had emerged to
incinerator three chimneys (“joss sticks”) which were considered meet their various needs. The TO Family opened a mountain goods
to have disturbed the fengshui . The “three joss sticks” were only store next to the fish market. They weaved bamboo baskets for
demolished in the last 10 years. sale in response to the booming demand of the fishery industry.
“Coolie heads” of the port of Kennedy Town loved martial arts.
They received physical trainings to prepare for their hard labour.
9
The martial arts schools in the vicinity not only taught kung fu,
but also offered medical services. Moreover, they were the stars
in every year’s lion dance.
The old laan and markets were gone when you visit Kennedy
Town today. The thundering noise and chaotic traffic of boats,
workers and wooden carts were already histor y. Apart from
some old shops, only the streets remain unchanged. The
memory of Hau Wo Street and Forbes Street of Yuen-har, and
the recollections of New Praya, Kennedy Town of Stephen CHOI,
Mrs. LAM and her son Ken LAM and Michael LEE, have reflected
the vicissitudes of Sai Wan.
The memories of these “Kennedians” have outlined the tracks
of how their town has transformed. I would like to thank HKJC
Charities Trust for sponsoring the publication of this book. This
book is a good attempt in filling a missing piece of the history of
Kennedy Town and is worthwhile to read.
Dr. HUNG Wing-tat, M.H.
Chairman of The Conservancy
Association Centre for Heritage
目錄 12 前言 第四章節 120 牛房屠房 — 牛糞變鮮花
Preface 設施 Cattle Depot and Slaughterhouse –
CONTENT Building atop the dunghill
CHAPTER FOUR
第一章節 18 西環七臺 — 詩意地棲居 FACILITIES 128 雞鴨欄 — 雞毛鴨血一條街
民居 The Seven Terraces of Sai Wan – Poultry Laan – The street of feathers
The poetic of naming
CHAPTER ONE 136 焚化爐 — 污染還是污名？
HOUSING 28 公民村 — 消失的樂土 Incinerator – Blackening or blackened?
Kung Man Village – The lost paradise
146 公園 — 讓社區呼吸
36 西環邨 — 精緻的公共屋邨 Park – Let the community breath
Sai Wan Estate – The exquisite public estate
44 聯邦新樓 — 洋樓享受，唐樓消費 第五章節 156 卑路乍街、北街 — 車路、人路
Luen Bong Apartment – Belcher's Street and North Street –
街道
Modern building quality at tonglau price The roads for vehicles and pedestrians
CHAPTER FIVE
STREETS 166 石山街、健文街 — 小巷的前世今生
第二章節 54 永昌香燭文具 — 小街老舖 Rock Hill Street and Kin Man Street –
店舖 Wing Cheung Joss Sticks and Candles – The now and then of an alley
A drop in the ocean
CHAPTER TWO 176 厚和街、科士街 — 從小販區到蘇豪西
SHOPS 60 新杜洪記山貨竹器 — 洪流拾遺 Hau Wo Street and Forbes Street –
New To Hung Kee Mountain Goods – From hawker market to Soho
The community weaver
184 堅尼地城海旁 — 海岸線的回憶
66 奇香村茶行 — 老字號與新世代 Kennedy Town Praya –
Kee Heung Chun Tea Company – The memory of coastline
Old brand in a new generation
72 吳江南國術體育會 — 醫武一家 194 堅尼地城大事年表
Ng Kwong Nam Martial Arts Gymnasium – Chronology of Kennedy Town
The kung fu medic
198 影像資料
第三章節 82 魯班先師廟 — 規矩長存 List of Images
鄰里 Lo Pan Temple – Precision and order
CHAPTER THREE 92 鐘聲慈善社 — 迴響深遠 202 鳴謝
NEIGHBOURHOOD Chung Sing Benevolent Society – Acknowledgement
Saved by the bell
100 西環盂蘭勝會 — 社區祭奠
Sai Wan Yu Lan Festival –
The community memorial ceremony
108 長者服務中心 — 老有所屬
Elderly Service Centres –
Sense of belonging for older adults
13
前言 二零一四年年尾，地鐵向港島西延伸觸及堅尼地城，新式店舖 筆者曾經住過青蓮臺，感受過這裏曲徑通幽的恬靜美好。這次
和重建項目相繼進駐。被賦予「小蘇豪」、「高級食肆」、「高尚 走訪了近四十 位 堅 尼 地 城街 坊，以口述 歷 史的方式擷 取他們
住 宅 」這 些 標 籤，堅 尼 地 城 的 過 往 似 乎 已 被 人 遺 忘：曾 幾 最難忘的生活經歷，讓每一段記憶都回應著社區的歷史點滴。
何 時，與詩 情 畫 意的 樓 臺相 映 成 趣 的，竟是 令人 避 之唯 恐 不 希望讀者能從書中認識昔日最貼地的堅尼地城。本書籌備時間
及的雞鴨欄；貨倉遍佈的海旁既見證了船運的繁榮，又承載著 有限，若內容有所錯漏，還請讀者不吝賜教。
苦力的艱 難 歲月。在 這 裡可以 凝 視百餘 年來佇立山中的精 巧
堅尼地城的人，對堅尼地城的所見所憶，從這裡娓娓道來。
廟宇，亦能感 受不 斷 變 遷的 海岸 線……這 些 是 時 代的縮影，
也是堅尼地城的獨具一格。
將 時間回溯 到一八 八 五年十月十日，政 府 憲 報 第一次出現了
「堅 尼 地 城」這個 名字。這個 維多利 亞城 最西端的土 地，曾有
香 港 早 期 建 成的遊 樂 場，也有「擸 𢶍（垃圾）灣」之稱。許 多
令人 厭惡的設 施 —— 屠房、殮 房、墳 場、傳染 病醫院、一別亭
（送喪亭）、煤氣鼓 —— 隨著人口聚居和城市發展 逐一搬 遷或
清拆。堅尼地城在二十世紀下半葉發生著巨大的變化，而這個
改變呈現在街坊生活的方方面面。
民居、店舖、鄰里、設施、街道，這五種元素均是堅尼地城社區
生活之不可或缺，亦環環相扣。人們賴以生存的樓宇空間、滿足
日常需求的經濟活動、凝聚街坊的民間組織、凸顯社區功能的
設 施規劃，還有日新月異的大街小巷，塑造出整個社區面貌。
而塑造者就是每一位街坊，是他們的生活軌跡勾勒出堅尼地城
的圖景，他們的回憶是對社區最真實的描繪。
15
PREFACE By the end of 2014, MTR West Island Line extended its service to where the communal functions were planned and streets where
Kennedy Town. New shops and redevelopment projects entered changes happened, they all contributed to the moulding of the
the town gradually. Kennedy Town is now a place branded as community’s appearance. Ever y kaifong is a moulder. Their
“sub-Soho”, “fine dining” and “luxury residence”. The past of this tracks of life sketched the outline of Kennedy Town, while their
place is being forgotten. It was once a poetic place contrasted memories illustrated the true faces of the community.
with obnoxious poultr y pens. The harbour front lined with
The author had lived on Ching Lin Terrace. Having walked
warehouses once witnessed the prosperity of sea freight while
the winding paths, I had experienced the tranquillity of this
holding the rough life of coolies. In this town you could appreciate
community. In this book, I have interviewed nearly 40 Kennedians
a hundred-year old temple while lamenting the everchanging
and recorded their most memorable life experiences through
coastline. These miniatures of time have given Kennedy Town its
oral histories. By echoing their memories with the histories of
uniqueness.
the community, it is hoped that readers could get to know the
Travelling back in time 10th October, 1885, the name “Kennedy past of Kennedy Town to the local tastes of these Kennedians.
To w n” f i r s t a p p e a r e d i n t h e G o v e r n m e nt G a ze t te . T h i s A s time is limited, please do not hesitate to advise on any
westernmost land of The City of Victoria had one of the earliest misinformation found in this book.
amusement parks in Hong Kong. It was also considered by many
Every Kennedian to his taste, the stories of people of Kennedy
as the “dirty corner”. There were many offensive facilities –
Town start from this point on.
slaughterhouse, mortuary, cemetery, infectious hospital, funeral
parlour and gasholder – which were either moved or demolished
one by one as the population grew and the town developed.
Kennedy Town has experienced dramatical changes in the second
leaf of the 20th Century and such changes were represented by
the various aspects of life of kaifong .
The five elements of housing, shops, neighbourhood, facilities
and streets formed up the community life of Kennedy Town and
they are mutually connected. Residential areas where people
reside, economic activities where daily necessities were fulfilled,
community organisations where kaifong are connected, facilities
民居 二十世紀初葉的西環人口稀少，主要住宅集中於西環山上的七臺。
HOUSING
戰 後 人口逐 漸 增加，人們或 搭建 木屋，或 租住 唐樓 板間 房，居 住
環境擠迫，生活比較艱苦。五六十年代，區內第一座廉租屋邨西環邨
落 成，亦 有 政 府 或 私 人機 構 津 貼 的員工宿 舍。六 十 年 代 末 房協
觀龍樓落成為西環增添了二千餘 個單位。隨著城市發展，西環曾
擁有逾千人口的平房區公民村、寮屋區逐一清拆，私 人 屋 苑開始
改變社區面貌。六十年代末聯邦新樓初建成時，附近仍是雞鴨欄；
直 至 近二十年來，舊樓陸 續 重 建，高尚住宅逐 漸 增多，為區內帶
來不少新居民。這一章節將選取堅尼地城歷史上較有歷史意義和
代表性的民居，重現昔日西環街坊的生活空間。
At the start of the 20th Century, the scarce population in Sai Wan
concentrated mainly on the Seven Terraces. After the WW2, the
population gradually increased. Leading a hard life, many built
squatter huts or rented sub-divided flats in tonglau . Around the
50s and the 60s, the first public housing estate in the district –
Sai Wan Estate – was built and staff quarters were provided by
both public and private sectors. Housing Society’s Kwun Lung
Lau was established in the 60s to provide 2 000 odd flats. Sai
Wan once housed the cottage area of Kung Man Village with over
1 000 residents. Squatter areas were cleared and were gradually
replaced by private housing estates. Luen Bong Apar tment
used to be surrounded by poultry pens when it was first built
in the 60s. Urban redevelopment has erected many high-end
residential buildings and brought about new residents to the
community. This Chapter attempts to reproduce the living spaces
of kaifong in Sai Wan through selected residences.
詩 意 地 棲 居
西 環 七 臺
THE SEVEN TERRACES OF SAI WAN:
THE POETIC OF NAMING
民居 — 西環七臺 21
臺與臺之間有很多
何國祥生 於一九三零年代的香港，戰後搬入羲皇臺
唐三樓，七十年代後 期舊羲皇 臺 清拆時，何家購入
青蓮 臺單位。如今年逾 八旬的何老先生在西環七臺
連接，有後巷、小鋪⋯ 居住已有七十載。
會讓人有很多驚喜。
在 蜿 蜒的薄 扶林道與 寬闊的卑路乍街之間有一座山坡，街 坊 回憶
俗 稱西 環 山，十九世 紀 末 至二十 世 紀初曾屬於當時 華人首富
「以前七 臺的唐樓 真的很 美，走 馬騎樓 打通各單位。」從 前的
李 陞 及 其子 李 寶 龍。大 約 在一九一五年至一九 三 五年 期 間，
羲皇臺擁有著兩排木結構唐樓，中間是一條大馬路，住客很多。
李寶龍在這 座山坡 上 建 造了香港早期的遊 樂場 ——太白樓。
過年過節很是熱鬧。何老先生依稀記得，在他搬進羲皇臺早期，
二十世紀二十年代，李寶龍因生意失敗，不得不出售西環山的
經 歷過二戰的紫蘭臺仍有炮彈痕跡，後來才重建。「紫蘭臺是
產業還債，後來的發展商在這座山坡上開闢了七個臺興建住宅，
一排唐樓，有條大坑渠。七臺中只有紫蘭臺和李寶龍臺是直的，
又稱「西環七臺」，如今仍保留著其中五個臺。
與其他五臺不同。李寶龍臺的街號是雙數排序，對面的紫蘭臺
李寶龍興 建的太白樓遊 樂場深受當時的文人 墨客 歡 迎，裡有 則是單數。」
旋轉木馬、人工湖、假山、射擊場，有魔術和大力戲（雜技）表演，
戰 後 五十 年 代，為了維 護 治 安，七 臺 的 居民曾自發 成 立 警 衛
更有猜謎等遊戲。據說太白樓的命名由於李寶龍姓李，他最喜
制度，在李寶龍臺的一間小木屋設看更亭，向每戶家庭每月收
詩人李太白的詩句。而後來西環七臺的命名是發展商為了紀念
取二元。「當時租金大約是每月十至二十元左右。到了七十年代
李寶龍，將這山丘上的其餘六座臺均取名與李白相關：從薄扶
末，羲皇臺宣佈即將清拆，為了不離開七臺，見到有間建築公司
林道往海邊排列的依次有學士臺（李白曾任翰林學士）
、桃李臺
在青蓮臺的大樹下放置一張檯賣青蓮臺樓花，就以十萬元買了
（取 自 李 白的 詩 句）
、青 蓮 臺（李 白 別 號 青 蓮 居 士）
、羲皇臺
現在的單位，一家七口搬進青蓮臺。」
（取 自 李 白的 詩 句）和太白臺（李白字太白）
，東西兩邊 縱向延
伸的分別是李 寶龍 臺和紫蘭臺（取自李白的詩 句）
。一九八零 如今，許多舊時鄰居逐漸搬離，但何老夫婦仍然幾十年如一日
年代初，紫蘭臺和李寶龍臺清拆，如今只剩下一條李寶龍路和 駐守於此。「雖然 樓 梯 很 多，上下樓 很辛苦，但 是 幾十年來也
西環五臺。 習慣了。現在很多年輕人見到我拿著重物爬樓梯，都會主動上
前幫忙，鄰里關係仍如往昔。」
民居 — 西環七臺 23
「 八零 後 」梁 樂 山 於二 零 零八年 從 外 區 搬 入 位 於
太白臺的太白居居住，被西 環依山而建的社區生 活
所吸引。
回憶
七臺可算得上是一個小小山城，它最吸引阿樂之處在於社區的
規劃和結構有許多可能性。「臺與臺之間有很多連接，有後巷、
小舖、露天的公共空間，會讓人有很多驚喜。」阿樂認為西環是
一個有生活氣息的社區，「這裡四通 八達，很多小徑或許不是
政府規劃的，而是人們走出來的，為社區生活營造出相互聯繫
的空間，是自下而上的。」對 於 阿樂來說，這裡 是 為 數不 多仍
保留著歷史脈絡之處，「並不是一種連根拔起式的發展」。
HOUSING : SEVEN TERRACES IN SAI WAN 25
THE SEVEN TERRACES OF SAI WAN: HO Kwok-cheung, born in Hong Kong in the 1930s,
THE POETIC OF NAMING moved into the Third Tenement Floor of Hee Wong
Terrace af ter W W2. Af ter Hee Wong Terrace was
Between the winding Pok Fu Lam Road and the broad Belcher’s demolished in the late 70s, the HO family bought a flat
Street there is a slope. Kaifong used to call it Sai Wan Hill. It was unit on Ching Lin Terrace. Having passed the age of
once owned by LI Sing, the richest Chinese at that time, and his 80, Mr. HO has already lived on The Seven Terraces of
son, LI Po-lung, from the end of 19th Century to the early 20th Sai Wan for seven decades.
Century. Roughly between 1915 and 1935, LI Po-lung built one of
the earliest amusement parks in Hong Kong – Tai Pak Lau. In the
20s of the 20th Century, the business of LI Po-lung failed and he THE MEMORY
had to pay debt by selling Sai Wan Hill. The developer who took
“The tonglau of the Seven Terraces were very beautiful, with
over the Hill cut seven terraces to build residential flats, which
verandahs linking all flat units.” Hee Wong Terrace used to have
was called “The Seven Terraces”. Five of the terraces leave
two lines of tonglau with wooden structure on both sides of road.
until today.
There were many tenants, and the place was especially lively
The Tai Pak Lau Amusement Park of LI Po-lung attracted many during festivals. The old kaifong Mr. HO somehow recalled that
literati at that time. Inside, there were merry-go-round, artificial not long after he moved into Hee Wong Terrace, there were still
lake, rockery, shooting range, magic and juggling show as well bullet holes on the walls of the post-war Chi Lan Terraces before
as various games like quizzes. But how did Tai Pak Lau get its its redevelopment. “Chi Lan Terrace was a strip of tonglau with a
name? Some said that it was because LI Po-lung loved the poems large nullah. Amongst the Seven Terraces, only Chi Lan Terrace
of his favourite poet LI Bai, and in commemoration of LI, the and Li Po Lung Terrace ran from north to south, unlike other five
developer named the six terraces on this hill in connection with terraces (which run from east to west). The building numbers of
the poet LI Bai. In the order from Pok Fu Lam Road to the coast, Li Po Lung Terrace were even while those of Chi Lan Terrace on
five of them were Hok Sz Terrace (“Hok Sz”, i.e. Academician, the opposite were odd.”
was the official title of LI in government), To Li Terrace (“To Li”,
i.e. peach and plum, from one of LI’s poems), Ching Lin Terrace
(“Ching Lin”, i.e. pale purple lily, was an alias of LI), Hee Wong
Terrace (“Hee Wong”, i.e. Fuxi, the creator of humanity in Chinese
legends, was from one of LI’s poems), Tai Pak Terrace (LI styled
himself as Tai-pak). Two terraces ran vertically from north to
south were Chi Lan Terrace (“Chi Lan”, i.e. purple orchid, was
also from one of LI’s poems) and Li Po Lung Terrace. In early
1980s, Chi Lan Terrace and Li Po Lung Terrace were demolished.
What are left behind are a lonesome li Po Lung Path as well as
Five Terraces of Sai Wan.
HOUSING : SEVEN TERRACES IN SAI WAN 27
LEUNG Lok-shan, attracted by the lifestyle of the
hillside community of Sai Wan, is a “post-80s” who
has moved to Tai Pak Terrace, 36 Sands Street, from
Kowloon in 2008.
THE MEMORY
The Seven Terraces can be considered as a petite chateau. The
most attractive element of this community for LEUNG Lok-shan
is that there were many possibilities in its planning. “There
were many connections between terraces, such as back alleys,
In the post-war 50s, residents of the Seven Terraces set up their
small vendors or public open spaces, which will never fail to
own security system to maintain public order. A small wooden
surprise you.” Ah Lok thinks that Sai Wan is a community for
hut on Li Po Lung Terrace was designated as guard post, and
living, “Getting around here is a breeze. Many paths are not
each household had to pay a monthly fee of two dollars. “The
planned by the Government, but are rather walked out by people.
monthly rent at that time was between 10 to 20 dollars. In the
It is a bottom-up approach to create communicative spaces
late 70s, it was announced that Hee Wong Terrace was to be
for community living.” For him, this is a place where traces of
cleared. Not wanting to leave the Seven Terraces, when I saw a
history are preserved, but not another facelift of an “uprooting”
construction company set up a table under the tree on Ching Lin
development.
Terrace to pre-sell flats, I bought the current flat unit at 100,000
dollars. Hence my family of seven moved to Ching Lin Terrace.”
Today, many old neighbours have left the Terrace one by one, but
the HO couple continues to stay year by year. “Although there are
many steps and climbing up and down the stairs is tiring, it has
become a habit after decades. Now, many young people kindly
offer their help when seeing me climb up the stairs with heavy
stuff. The neighbourhood is still close as it used to be.”
消 失 的 樂 土
公 民 村
KUNG MAN VILLAGE:
THE LOST PARADISE
民居 — 公民村 31
從擠迫的徙置大廈
搬到公民村，
我們一家人都很開心。
公民村，又名摩星嶺平房區，是上世紀五十年代政府早期房屋
計 劃 選 址 於 摩 星嶺 近 堅 尼 地 城 的 斜 坡 上 興 建 的 單 層房屋，
供登記在冊的受 災寮屋 居民憑白卡購置 居住。公民村共分四
期，由近堅尼地城的第一區向西延伸到第四區。房屋是石砌金
字瓦頂平房，二百餘尺，廚房灶位設有煙囪，兩至三間一排。一層
一層的房屋縱向台階式伸延，自山腳向上排列。政府亦派專人
負責管理、清潔和交地租，整個公民村於二零零二年完成清拆。
如 今 位 於 西 環 邨 的摩 星嶺 街 坊 福 利 會原 址 公 民 村 第一 區。
街 坊 福 利 會成 立 於 一九 五 五年，服務摩 星嶺平房區的居民，
有救濟服務、康樂活動、建設基 礎設 施如街 燈、石椅等，成立
獎 學 金 等 等。福 利 會自公民 村 清拆 後 搬 遷，目前仍定 期 舉 辦
社區活動，旨在為街坊謀福利。
33
杜 月冰 於 一九 五七 年 隨 父 母自徙 置 大 廈 搬 入
摩星嶺公民村居住，至八十年代遷出後，亦一直居於
堅尼地城。
回憶
杜月冰的父親一九五七年以二千元購入公民村第一區一四四
號，「從擠迫的徙置大廈搬到公民村，我們一家人都很開心。」
屋子正 對 大 海，晴 天 時欣 賞夕陽西 下，颱 風 時望著 對 面青州
燈塔掛起十號風球，雖然住的是石屋仔，但是結構還算穩固，
未受大 風影響。據她回憶，當時摩星嶺一帶都是平房區。由於
屋內沒有水喉，制水時許多人要輪街喉，而月冰住的房屋由於
靠 近 山溪，能 幹 的 父 親自己用石塊 圍 起一 個 水 池，並 駁一 條
管道將山溪水引入家中，更駁了幾條支喉，供鄰居們裝水，共同
渡過制水的歲月。
那 些 年日子 不 再，公 民 村也 已 清 拆，居民 們 紛 紛 被 安 置 到 別
區的公共 房屋。當年炊 烟 裊裊的 村落如 今只餘下 荒 草 叢生、
頹垣敗瓦，杳無人煙。「說起堅尼地城的變化，當年摩星嶺一帶
遍 佈 住 宅，可 現 今 卻 變 得 無 比 荒 蕪。」童 年 的 樂 土 如 今 已
不復見，月冰只有將美好的記憶保存在心中。
HOUSING : KUNG MAN VILLAGE 35
KUNG MAN VILLAGE : TO Yuet-ping moved to Kung Man Village of
THE LOST PARADISE Mount Davis from resettlement block together
with her parents in 1957. Although she moved
Kung Man Village, also known as Mount Davis Cottage Area, was
out of the Village in the 80s, she continues to
a cottage resettlement area where single-story cottages were
stay in Kennedy Town.
built on the slope of Mount Davis near Kennedy Town. It was a
part of the early Government’s housing scheme in the 1950s
designated for registered afflicted squatters to purchase with
THE MEMORY
their occupation permit (commonly referred to as the “White
Card”). Kung Man Village had four phases, extending westward The father of TO Yuet-ping bought No. 144, Area 1, Kung Man
from Area 1 near Kennedy Town to Area 4. Each cottage was built Village at 2,000 dollars in 1957, “Every member of my family
with stone and had a tiled pyramid roof. Around 200 square feet was happy for being able to move to Kung Man Village from the
in size, every unit had a chimney connecting the stove in kitchen. crammed resettlement block.” The cottage faced the sea. It
Two to three cottages a row, these lines of cottages climbed enjoyed the view of sunset in fine weather, as well as witnessed
parallelly up the slope from the foot of hill. The Government the hoisting of Signal No. 10 at the opposite Green Island
would send officers to manage, cleanse and collect rent from Lighthouse during typhoons. Despite being a stone hut, it was
the Village. It was only in 2002 that the whole Kung Man Village strong enough to withstand ferocious gales. As she recollected,
was cleared. Mount Davis was covered with cottages. As there was no water
supply directly into these stone huts, many residents had to
The Mount Davis Kai-fong Welfare Association currently in Sai
queue for standpipes during the period of water rationing. As
Wan Estate was once located in Area 1, Kung Man Village. The
Yuet-ping lived near a stream, her reliable father used some
Kai-fong Welfare Association was founded in 1955 to ser ve
stone plaques to dam up a small reservoir, and channelled the
residents of Mount Davis Cottage Area. It provided social aids,
water into the house with a pipe. He even installed several branch
recreational activities, constructed infrastructure such as
pipes for the neighbours to fill their water buckets. Together they
streetlamps, stone benches and offered scholarships, etc. The
struggled through the years of water restriction.
Association moved after the clearance of Kung Man Village. It
continues to organise regular community activities and strive for Those were the days, and Kung Man Village was demolished.
the welfare of kaifong . Residents were resettled to public housing units in other
districts. The smoky chimneys have disappeared from the foothill
of Mount Davis. The place is now deserted, being left in ruin with
weeds and rubbles. “What strikes me about Kennedy Town is that
the once populated Mount Davis has now become a wasteland.”
The paradise in childhood is no more, Yuet-ping can only relive it
in memories.
精 緻 的 公 共 屋 邨
西 環 邨
SAI WAN ESTATE:
THE EXQUISITE PUBLIC ESTATE
民居 — 西環邨 39
以前每逢中午時分，
彭 氏 兄 妹 阿 娟 和 哥 哥 生 於 五 十 年 代 的 西 環，
一九五九年跟隨父母成為首批入住西環邨的居民，
七十年代搬離西 環邨，今 天仍居於堅 尼 地 城。阿娟
小童群益會派牛奶， 的 姪 女 秀 麗 在 堅 尼 地 城 長 大，結 婚 後 搬 離 該 區，
直至二零一七年重返堅城居住。
很多人拿著牛奶樽排隊呢！
一九五零年代起，香港屋宇建設委員會為提升市民的生活環境， 回憶
紓緩 住 屋 緊張 情況，開始 發展 廉 租 屋計劃。西 環邨便 是 港島
北苑臺一個四百多呎的單位，六十年代時住著阿娟一家十二口。
第一批 廉 租 屋邨 其中之一，位 於加多近街與 加 惠 民 道 之間，
面對著碼頭海景，在魚欄工作的娟父每到下午三四時，從自家
原 本 稱 作「 加 多 近 街 廉 租 厦 」，一九 五 八年 落 成 時 定 名 為
窗戶遠望有漁船即將泊岸，便下樓準備開工。除了東苑臺，其他
西環邨。由五座樓宇：東苑臺、南苑臺、西苑臺、北苑臺、中苑臺
幾 座相 互 連 通。鄰居 們 互 通 有無，關 係 融 洽。最初 的 設 施 有
組成的西環邨是房委在中西區唯一的廉租屋邨，每戶擁有獨立
圖 書 館 和 小童 群 益 會。「以 前 每 逢 中午 時 分，小童 群 益 會 派
的廚房、浴室，當時租金約每月六十多元至 八十多元。西 環邨
牛奶，很多人拿著牛奶樽排隊呢！」秀麗轉述父親的回憶。
共有六百多個單位，可容納四千餘人，可說是現時全港最小的
公共屋邨。 依 山而 建 的 西 環 邨 附 近有 許 多木 屋 區，那 裡 的 居 民 也 會 經
西 環 邨 出 入 堅 尼 地 城 其 他 地 方。木 屋 區 居民 大 多 會 在自家
種 菜。
「從西苑臺的後山可以翻過圍欄到旁邊的木屋區。有時
見到耕種的居民在田邊挖了一個氹裝些肥料，頑皮的小朋友就
拿石頭扔過去，弄得糞便沾滿全身！」說起童年趣事，秀麗父親
意猶未盡。
西環邨屹立至今已近六十年，走進這個如今看來很是「迷你」
的屋 邨，卻 覺 得 無 比可愛 和 親 切。單邊 走 廊 設 計 通 風 舒 爽，
家家戶戶打開大門，鄰居們出入相遇時點頭微笑，溫馨安樂的
生活不就是如此嗎？
HOSUING: SAI WAN ESTATE 41
The PANG siblings, Ah Kuen and her elder
brother were born in the 50s in Sai Wan. They
moved into Sai Wan Estate with their parents
and were amongst the first batch of tenants.
They moved out of the Estate in the 70s, but
have continued to live in Kennedy Town until
today. Sau-lai, the niece of Ah Kuen, also grew
up in Kennedy Town, lef t the district af ter
marriage. She moved back to her hometown
in 2017.
SAI WAN ESTATE :
THE EXQUISITE PUBLIC ESTATE
THE MEMORY
Since the 1950s, Hong Kong Housing Authority initiated the Low-
A flat in North Terrace is merely over 400 square feet in size,
cost Housing Estate scheme to improve the living environment
but it was the home of Ah Kuen’s family of 12 in the 60s. The unit
and to alleviate the housing shortage of Hong Kong citizens.
was gifted with the harbour view of the pier. As Ah Kuen’s father
Sai Wan Estate is amongst the earliest batch of public rental
worked at the fish market, at around 3 to 4 in the afternoon, he
estates in Hong Kong. It sits between Cadogan Street and Ka
would gaze afar from home to see if any fishing boat had berthed.
Wai Man Road. It was originally called “Cadogan Street Low-cost
It would be the time he left for work. Except East Terrace, all
Housing Estate”, and the name Sai Wan Estate was given when it
other blocks are interconnected. Neighbours were able to
completed its construction in 1958. It is a complex of 5 buildings,
better communicate and thus live in harmony. At the beginning,
namely East Terrace, South Terrace, West Terrace, North Terrace
the only facilities there were a library and the agency of The
and Central Terrace. Each flat has its own kitchen and bathroom.
Boys’ and Girls’ Clubs Association. “The Boys’ and Girls’ Clubs
The monthly rent was set at around 60 to 80 dollars initially. Sai
Association used to give out milk every day at noon. Many would
Wan Estate provides over 600 units and houses a population
queue up holding their milk bottles!” said Sau-lai relating to her
of over 4 000. It is at present the smallest public estate in
father’s memory.
Hong Kong.
HOUSING : SAI WAN ESTATE 43
There were many squatter areas near the contoured Sai Wan
Estate. Those villagers would also visit various parts of Kennedy
Town via the Estate. Many squatters grew their own vegetables.
“If you climbed over the fence at the back of West Terrace, you
could reach the adjacent squatter area. Farmers usually dug
a puddle to hold fertilizer. Occasionally I saw some mischievous
kids throw stones into the puddle and get poops all over them!”
The interesting childhood is a joy forever for Sau-lai’s father.
Sai Wan Estate is now 60 years old. Entering this “petite” estate
in nowadays’ standard, it is especially lovable and warm. Having
a design of cor r idor s on one side keeps the environment
ventilated. Every household opens the front door, and neighbours
will greet one another with a nod and a smile on their face. Is it
not the peaceful lifestyle we have all yearned for?
洋 樓 享 受
聯 邦 新 樓
唐 樓 消 費
LUEN BONG APARTMENT:
MODERN BUILDING QUALITY AT
TONGLAU PRICE
民居 — 聯邦新樓 47
聯邦新樓平
出生 於上世 紀四十 年代 的 徐 先生十 幾 歲 時已搬 入
堅尼地城，聯邦新樓建成後跟隨父母搬入聯德新樓，
後亦與太太居住在聯邦新樓其他單位，直至今天。
聯邦新樓靚 與 徐 先 生 同 齡 的 戴 太 太 於 一九 六 七 年 搬 入 堅 尼
地城，並購入聯字樓其中一單位作為成衣加工工場，
供貨給大丸、松坂屋、金鐘廊等商舖。
聯邦新樓於一九六零年代興建，毗鄰科士街、士美菲路、卑路 回憶
乍街和爹核士街，共有八座樓宇，屬會德豐旗下聯邦地產有限
「聯邦新樓平、聯邦新樓靚」是聯邦新樓的售樓廣告，亦是徐氏
公司物業。其所在位 置前身是 麻纜 廠，為旗昌洋行所設，更有
購入的原因。「一九六六年左右，聯德新樓的單位大概二萬至
一條「旗昌街」，後因興建聯邦新樓而消失。
三萬元，還送五千元傢俬裝修費。供樓的話首期是 9,940 元。」
六十 年代 城 市 開 始 發 展，西 環 人口漸 增。擁 有「洋 樓 之 美 觀 又平又靚的聯邦新樓有電梯、有水廁。對徐家來說比租住唐樓
設計，唐樓之價錢」的聯邦新樓定位為「大眾化的高尚唐樓」， 板間房，沖涼只能在廚房的環境好太多了。這在當時來說相對
受到附近不少經濟狀況尚可，欲意改善生活環境的家庭住戶的 低廉的樓價，或許是受到社區環境不佳的影響。據徐先生回憶，
歡迎。半個世紀過去，聯邦新樓周圍的地方已發生了翻天覆地 「那時提起搬入西環，人們都不贊成，還說『那麼荒蕪的地方為
的變化，這個屋苑仍是西環不變的地標之一。 什麼要搬入？！』」周圍不是工廠就是厭惡性設施，「西環真是
什麼都沒有！堅尼地城也沒有什麼娛樂的地方。」
民居 — 聯邦新樓 49
戴 太 太 與徐 太 太 是 牌友，至今相 識 二十 餘 載，街 坊 情 誼 非常
深厚。當時西環有許多工廠，徐太太有時也會從附近的工廠大
廈拿一些半成品回家加工。那時手工業興旺，就連徐太的女兒
佩 君也有 幫忙，「我記得 有 幫媽媽 黏 旗子、釘 茶包、做 鬧 鐘，
問她要零用錢花！」一邊在家看護小孩，一邊做手工幫補家用，
或許是那個年代家庭主婦的普遍情況。
半個世紀過去，聯邦新樓也已不再嶄新，但這個屋苑的名字卻
是許多西環人心中的地標，也代表了堅尼地城最熱鬧的地段。
HOUSING: LUEN BONG APARTMENT 51
LUEN BONG APARTMENT: THE MEMORY
MODERN BUILDING QUALITY AT TONGLAU PRICE
“Luen Bong Apartment, quality at a bargain” was the catchphrase
Luen Bong Apartment was built in the 1960s. Surrounded by for the sale advertisement of Luen Bong Apartment. This was also
Forbes Street, Smithfield, Belcher’s Street and Davis Street, the reason why the CHUI had bought their homes there. “In around
it consists of 8 towers. The complex was a property of Realty 1966, a flat at Luen Bong Apartment priced at approximately
Development Corpor ation Limited which was acquired by 20,000 to 30,000 dollars, yet it also came with 5,000 dollars rebate
Wheelock and Company Limited. The location was once a rope for furniture and decoration. The downpayment was only 9,940
factor y set up by Russell & Co. (i.e. “Kee Cheong” Company dollars for mortgage.” The economical Luen Bong Apartment
in Chinese). There was also a “Kee Cheong Street” which was came with elevators and offered independent water closet in each
removed due to the construction of Luen Bong Apartment. flat. The flat was big enough to house the whole CHUI family.
It was a great improvement comparing to their former home –
In the 60s, Sai Wan began to develop and the population grew a rental subdivided flat in tonglau where one could only bathe at
accordingly. Luen Bong Apartment, which was positioned as the common kitchen. The price was set at a relatively low level at
“high-class tonglau ” combining “the design of modern building that time, probably due to the unpleasant living environment of the
and the pricing of tonglau ”, was favoured by many relatively community. Mr. CHUI recalled, “When I told others that I was going
financially-comfortable households who wanted to improve their to move to Sai Wan, they all disagreed and said, ‘Why on earth
living environment. Half a century has passed. The surroundings would you want to move to such a desolated place?’” What were
of Luen Bong Apartment have undergone drastic changes. Yet, there were factories and nuisance facilities. “Sai Wan was really
this estate is one of the landmarks of Sai Wan that survived. boring! There was not much entertainment offered in the area.”
Born in the 40s of the last century, Mr. CHUI Mr s.TA I w as the mahjong-budd y of Mr s.CHUI. T hey have
moved to Kennedy Town since his teenage. known each other for nearly a jubilee and the bond is strong
W hen Luen Bong A par tment w as built, he as kaifong . There were many factories in Sai Wan in the past.
moved into one of the buildings, Luen Tak Mrs. CHUI would take some semi-products home to finish from
Apartments, along with his parents. Later, he the manufacturers nearby. It was a time when piecework was
lives in another flat with his wife until today. a thriving business, even Mrs. CHUI’s daughter Pui-kwan had
participated, “I remember helping my mon stick flags, staple
Mrs. TAI, who was of the same age of Mr. CHUI, teabags, assemble alarm clocks and asking her for pocket money
moved to Kennedy Town in 1967. She bought a afterwards!” Running a home production line while looking after
unit of Luen Bong Apartment and used it as a the children was the typical sample depicting the daily life of
garment-finishing workshop which had supplied housewives in that era.
retailers such as Daimaru, Matsuzakaya and
Half a century has past and Luen Bong Apartment is no longer
Queensway Plaza.
modern. Yet the name of this estate has already br anded
many residents of Sai Wan, marking the most vibrant area of
Kennedy Town.
店舖 傳統 店舖往往記 載著社區的歷 史發展，承 載著街 坊們的日常
SHOPS
生活，也構成了每個獨特的社區空間。昔日的堅尼地城曾是貨
運繁忙的碼頭，來自潮州的苦力們聚居於此，辛勞的苦力們為
了強身健體，許多加入 武館，為 社區慶典出一分力。在九大欄
聚 集 的西 環，少不了文 具舖 和山貨竹器 舖，為 欄 市 提 供 所 需
物 品。小店的出 現 是 為了滿 足 區內 街 坊 的生 活所 需，小店的
危 機 也 反 映 著 時 代 變 遷 下人們 生 活 模 式 的 變 化。隨 著 批 發
市場搬離，舊樓重建，人口變遷，科技發展，社區面貌日新月異。
本章節 記 取了堅 尼 地 城區內為 數不多的傳統店舖，它們 歷 史
或長或短，卻都見證著西環數十年的變遷，訴說著昔日的社區
經濟。
Tr aditional shops recorded the development histor y of a
communit y. They suppor ted the daily living of kaifong and
formed a unique communal environment. Kennedy Town used
to be a busy port and many coolies from Chiu Chow settled
here. Many of them joined mar tial ar ts schools to keep fit
for the labour. They contributed to many festive events in the
communit y. Sai Wan gathered “The Nine Laan” and shops
selling stationery and mountain goods were there to supply the
markets with necessities. Small shops emerged to satisfy the
everyday needs of kaifong . The crisis faced by small businesses
reflects changes of lifest yle in time. When the wholesale
markets moved, old buildings redeveloped, population structure
shif ted and technology advanced, the faces of communit y
transformed accordingly. This Chapter includes a few rarely
found conventional shops in Kennedy Town. Having histories
long or short, they all witnessed the evolvement and economic
development of Sai Wan in the past decades.
小 街 老 舖
永 昌 香 燭 文 具
WING CHEUNG JOSS STICKS AND CANDLES:
A DROP IN THE OCEAN
店鋪 — 永昌香燭文具 57
當年的厚和街
回憶
走進舖內，兩邊貨架上貨品琳琅滿目，一邊主要是衣紙和香燭，
是街市，很多檔口 另一邊卻放滿了文具。如今類似的舊式文具舖幾近絕跡。會將
文具和香燭紙紮品一起售賣的原因，據 湯先生 解 釋，「是因為
買賣需要文具單簿
文具和紙紮品的淡旺季正好分開：傳統節慶和誕期是紙紮祭品
的旺季，而開學及開市則是文具的旺季，這樣便能保證全年的
收 入。」每逢節日和誕期，繼 承了家族手藝的湯先生 還會親自
紮作祭品，供街坊鄰里選購。
紙 紮 是 許 多 傳 統 節 慶 和 宗 教 儀 式 上 的 祈 福 和 祭 祀 用 品。 除了 旺 季 互 補 之 外，永 昌 號 座 落 的 這 個 社 區 對 於 文 具 及
在 西 環 有一 家 香 燭 紙 紮 舖，亦 是 一 間 文 具 舖。店 舖 的 東 主 紙紮品需求量亦很大。據湯先生回憶，「當年的厚和街是街市，
湯漢泗先生一家於一九五七年從家鄉廣州來到香港，他跟父親 很 多檔口買賣需要 文 具 單簿，附 近有魚欄、菜 欄、酒 樓，區內
以家鄉的手工業——紮作謀生。成立於六十年代的紙紮舖原址 還有屠房，所以店舖的生意很旺。」許多西環的商戶都會幫襯
已拆卸，現今「永昌」這個店名是為了紀念湯父，約於七十年代 永昌老字號，訂單一年四季不斷。除了文具，紙 紮 祭品也 頗 受
正式紮 根在 厚 和街二十三號。湯先生 是家族 紙 紮業的第三代 西環街 坊歡 迎。「西環多潮州人，傳統節日時許多街 坊都會來
傳人，至今仍默默守護著西環厚和街。 購買祭品和香燭元寶。」
時移勢易，隨著科技發達、社區轉型，如今傳統文具和紙紮品都
乏人問津。「現在的新式樓宇都禁止燒衣紙，附近的批發市場和
屠房也搬走了，再加上電腦普及和電子化，生意一落千丈。現在，
雖有些外國人會由於好奇來買些香燭，但始終是杯水車薪。」
從 熱 鬧 的 市 集 搖 身 變 為 冷 清 的 小 蘇 豪 街，湯 氏 夫 婦見 證了
厚和街和堅尼地城的變遷。
SHOPS : WING CHEUNG JOSS STICKS AND CANDLES 59
WING CHEUNG JOSS STICKS AND CANDLES : Apart from the factor of high and low seasons, the community
A DROP IN THE OCEAN w here W ing Cheung w as founded in f ac t needed a lot of
stationery and paper-crafts. As Mr. TONG remembered,“Hau Wo
Papercrafts are used in many traditional festivals and religious
Street used to be a market. Many stores needed stationery and
ceremonies as offerings. In Sai Wan, there is a paper crafting
books for their trades. There were also fish market, vegetable
shop which sells also stationer y. The owner, Mr. TONG Hon-
market, restaurants and abattoir in the district. We had had
si, and his family migrated to Hong Kong from Guangdong in
good sales.” Many businesses in Sai Wan would purchase from
1957. His father earned a living by the renowned handicraft of
Wing Cheung, and orders kept pouring in across the whole year.
his homeland – paper crafting. The old site of the paper crafting
Apart from stationery, paper offerings were also welcomed by
shop set up in the 60s was already demolished. The current shop
the kaifong of Sai Wan. “Many Chiuchownese lived in Sai Wan.
“Wing Cheung”, which started business at 23 Hau Wo Street
Kaifong would come to buy ritual products such as joss sticks,
around the 70s, was named in remembrance of TONG’s father.
candles and paper offerings.”
Mr. TONG is the third generation of his family to enter the paper
handicraft industry, and he continues to stay subtly on Hau Wo Time has changed. As technology advances, the community
Street, Sai Wan. evolves as well. Traditional stationery and paper-crafts have
become less saleable nowadays. “Residents are restricted from
THE MEMORY burning paper offerings in modern building. The wholesale
markets and abattoir have been moved away. In addition to the
Entering the shop, there is a wide range of products filling the
popularisation of computer and digitalisation of everything, my
racks on both sides. On one end it is mainly loaded with paper
sale has dropped drastically. Some foreigners will buy some of
offerings, joss sticks and candles, while on the opposite it is
my joss sticks out of curiosity, but it is no help even for covering
packed with stationery. This kind of old style stationery shops
the cost.” Turning from a bustling into a quiet sub-Soho, the
is nearly extinct. As for why stationery is sold alongside ritual
TONG couple have witnessed the rise and fall of Hau Wo Street
products, Mr. TONG explained, “It is because the high and low
and Kennedy Town.
seasons for selling stationery and paper offerings are mutually
exclusive. The peak seasons for paper products are at traditional
festivals, while those for stationer y are at the beginning of
school year and resumption of business after major holidays.
Selling both can ensure a stable income throughout the year.”
For every festival, having succeeded the family craftsmanship,
Mr. TONG will make the paper products himself for the kaifong to
choose from.
洪 流 拾 遺
新 杜 洪 記 山 貨 竹 器
NEW TO HUNG KEE MOUNTAIN GOODS:
THE COMMUNITY WEAVER
店鋪 — 新杜洪記山貨竹器 63
不只西環，
大澳和筲箕灣的漁民都
時有幫襯杜洪記。
回憶
傳統 社區常見的店舖之一 便 是山貨 店。顧名思 義，「山貨」的 老店總與社區歷史密不可分。與吉席街一街之隔的加多近街曾
意思 是指用一些 竹、藤、草等「來自山上的」材料 編製而成的 是魚市場，漁船運輸漁獲、海鮮需要竹籮盛載。上世紀六七十年
物品。竹器 與 藤 器曾是 昔日許 多街 坊 的日常生 活 家品。堅 尼 代正值香港漁業黃金時期，據杜先生回憶，「不只西環，大澳和
地城有一間山貨舖——杜洪記。這個字號最早可追溯到二戰後 筲箕灣的漁民都時有幫襯杜洪記。」從竹到竹篾，再編織成器，
約一九四五年，由杜氏兄弟打理。杜氏家族於上世紀三十年代 每一件竹籮都是杜氏家族的心血和手藝。後來，由於手製竹器和
自家 鄉 逃 難 到 香 港，靠 手工 製作 竹器和 藤 器 謀 生，並 以杜 氏 藤器利潤微薄，杜洪記便兼賣傢俬幫補收入。適逢六十年代起，
父 親 的 名字為 店 舖 命 名，落 腳 西 環。杜 洪 記曾有自己的 製 造 西環陸續有許多唐樓、公共屋邨和木屋區入伙，居民們需要購買
工 場，全 盛 時 期 有十 個 夥 計，自七 十 年 代 後工 場 停止 經營， 傢俬，杜洪記頗受街坊歡迎。
如今只剩下一間地舖，仍然佇立於電車路旁的吉席街五十二號。
時代的洪流難以抵抗，與昔日繁榮的加工工場相比，如今店舖
可謂門庭冷落，西環已不復當年景況。批發市場遷走、製造工廠
結業，居民所需的大件 傢俬也已被裝修公司承包，杜洪記逐漸
貨品囤積，銷量慘淡。日日駐守在店舖的杜老先生也是百無聊賴，
時而跟路過的老街坊攀談，打發時間。
「以前門口有一塊比 較 顯眼的『新杜 洪記』招牌，後來據 說不
符合消防條例也拆除了。現在沒有什麼生意，也不知道還能支撐
多久。」杜先生不禁慨嘆，語氣裡透露著無奈和悲觀。儘管如此，
他仍然選擇每日留守在店內，聽著街上不曾改變的電車叮叮聲，
凝視著這個曾經生活了幾十年的社區。
SHOPS : NEW TO HUNG KEE MOUNTAIN GOODS 65
NEW TO HUNG KEE MOUNTAIN GOODS: Yet, tides of histor y cannot be resisted. Compared to the
THE COMMUNITY WEAVER workshop in the old days, the current shop has become quieter.
Sai Wan has lost its old glory. The wholesale market has moved
One of the most commonly seen shops in an old community is
away and manufacturers have closed down. The demands of
the mountain goods shop. As its name tells, “mountain goods”
residents for larger furniture have been captured by interior
means products made of materials found on the mountain,
decoration firms. The commodity in To Hung Kee started to
such as bamboo, rattan and grass. Bamboo- and rattan-wares
overstock for being unmarketable. Mr. To, manning the shop
were once the daily necessities of many kaifong in the old days.
daily, has nothing better to do than chatting up with the old
In Kennedy Town, there is a mountain goods shop – To Hung
kaifong who passed his door for time killing.
Kee. Managed by the TO brothers, the brand To Hung Kee can
be traced back as early as the post-war 1945. The TO Family “There used to be a more eye-catching sign inscribing ‘New To
escaped from their hometown to Hong Kong in the 30s of the last Hung Kee’ at the front of shop, but it was removed for violating
century and they handcrafted bamboo- and rattan-wares for a some Fire Safety Ordinance. I don’t do much business nowadays
living. The brothers settled in Sai Wan and opened a shop named and I have no idea how much longer I can hold out,” lamented
after their father. To Hung Kee once had its own workshop and Mr. TO in pessimism and helplessness. Against all odds, he
had 10 employees in its heyday. The workshop closed in the 70s. has decided to stand his ground and continue listening to the
Now, there is only a street shop still standing at 52 Catchick unchanged melody of tram bell and gazing into the community he
Street, next to the tramway. has lived for decades.
THE MEMORY
Old shops are the living histor y of a communit y. Cadogan
Street, which is adjacent to Catchick Street, was used to be a
fish market. Fishermen needed bamboo baskets to hold their
catches. It was the golden era for the fisheries in Hong Kong in
the 1960s and 70s. Mr. TO recalled, “Not only fishermen from Sai
Wan, those from Tai O and Shau Kei Wan were also customers
of To Hung Kee.” Bamboos were peeled into strips which were
then weaved into various tools. Each bamboo basket held the
sweat and skills of the TO Family. Later, as the margin for selling
handmade bamboo- and rattan-wares was meagre, To Hung
Kee started selling furniture as a new source of income. It was
the 60s when many moved into the tonglau , public estates and
squatter areas in Sai Wan, that many residents needed to furnish
their flats. To Hung Kee was very popular amongst the kaifong .
老 字 號 與 新 世 代
奇 香 村 茶 行
KEE HEUNG CHUN TEA COMPANY:
OLD BRAND IN A NEW GENERATION
店鋪 — 奇香村茶行 69
回憶
「整 個 堅 尼 地 城，至 少 在 這 條 街，我 們 算 是 最 悠 久 的 店 舖
之一了。」奇香村茶行可謂西環老字號，早在六十年代已在卑路
整個堅尼地城，至少在 乍街開業。據林先生說，當時在中環已開設店舖的林氏祖輩，
看中了西環尾靠近碼頭、運輸便利的地理位置，便購入現址作
這條街，我們算是最悠久 為茶葉的零售和批發場所。店舖雖然往西搬遷，卻無阻老街坊
一如既往的支持。
的店鋪之一了。 傳承了八十年的字號如今由新一代林氏後人接手。林文聰先生
自二零 零 七 年回流 接手祖 業，在 重 整 業務上花了不少心思和
精力。在產品的包 裝上，仍 保留老店的傳統復古包 裝，並 策劃
不 同 的 推 廣 活 動，迎 合潮 流 和 大 眾 的口味。「以 前 茶 是 家 家
戶戶必備飲品，顧客會 選購平價、大量的茶葉。現在家庭人數
上 世 紀 五 十 至 七 十 年 代，是 茶 行 最 興 盛 的 時 代，西 環 也
減少，年輕客人開始注 重茶葉的品質，追求健康和精緻。不過
曾 有 不 少。今 日 仍 保 留 著 的 西 環 老 字 號，要 數 一 九 三 八
香港人始終太忙碌，沒有時間慢慢沖茶。」林先生笑談香港人
年 業 已 成 立 的 奇 香 村 茶 行，至 今 已 有 八十 年 光 景。創 辦 人
飲茶的普遍現象。
林 氏 祖 輩 最 初 於 中 環 皇 后 大 道 中 開 舖，後 來 搬 至 士 丹
利 街，於 此 同 時 在 西 環 尾 亦 開 設 分 舖。位 於 中 環 的 店 舖 在 傳統 店 舖總不免要 應 對 社 區的 發展。面 對西 環的變 遷，成長
結束前曾遷至威靈頓街。茶行座落於西環卑路乍街三十號 A 已 於區內的林先生則比較坦然。「地鐵通車之後，街道確實比以
逾半世紀，現今由第三代接班人林文聰先生經營。 前旺。」對於店舖的將來，他也滿有信心，「老街坊認識我們，
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