by some relation of the sultan's, in his uncle's house, in
honour of the performance of the first Mohammedan
right upon the young infant, his son and heir, upon the
eighth day after its birth. The sultan bimself, with his
chief minister, accompanied them to see the festivities.
On this occasion, the ladies of the court were all found
to be in the apartment adjoining the reception- room,
and only separated from it by a large screen or curtain
before the door. Now, according to all the prescribed
rules of civilized life, it may reasonably be supposed
that the fair damsels, secluded as they usually were,
had just as much curiosity to see the lions of the day,
the English officers in uniform , as the latter had to
catch a glimpse of eastern beauty, the more sought the
more forbidden . Every now and then, you could see
the curtain moved gently on one side, and a young
lady's head peep out ; and then another would steal
a quiet look on the other side ; then again, by pres
sing against each other, more of them would be seen
than they intended, but quite enough to make you wish
to see more still. In the mean time his highness had
retired, or perhaps they might not have been so bold.
As the gallantry of the sons of Neptune has at all
times been famous, so in this instance it innocently got
the better of their discretion , and, with an apparently
accidental though well-premeditated charge at the cur
tain, which was most gallantly pushed on one side, a
VOL . I. L
146 A NATIVE BEAUTY.
full view of all the fair ladies was obtained, much more
to the apparent horror of the old uncle, who was a spec
tator of the achievement, than to that of the fair dam
sels themselves, who, nevertheless, quietly retreated in
some trepidation .. The ladies were all very handsomely
and gaudily dressed, it being a gala-day, but they were
not altogether the most Venus-like of beauties.
But a more curious scene was brought to view , on
being conducted to another apartment, where a large
and merry party of ladies of less distinguished rank
were amusing themselves with dancing and singing, but
certainly without much grace in the one, or melody in
the other. There was only one good-looking female
among the whole assembly, and she appeared to be the
queen of beauty, or mistress of the feast, for she was
treated with the utmost attention and deference by all
the rest.
On returning again to the presence of the sultan, re
freshments were handed round , and, as the weather was
hot, a whole train of the female servants of the house
were ushered into the room, each with a fan, or sort of
portable punka, in her hand . They were all very neatly
and cleanly dressed , and immediately set their fans
most dexterously to work , taking their stations behind
each person of the party, and fanning gently as if a host
of little zephyrs had stolen away from fairy lands, to
breathe their cooling breezes on the guests. The scene
was certainly novel, and withal amusing.
In the midst of this scene the sultan disappeared ,
followed by his uncle, and, after a few minutes' consul
tation , the attendance of Captain Hall was requested in
A PRIVATE CONSULTATION . 147
his highness's private apartment. Something important
was evidently about to happen, but, before there was
much time to conjecture what it might be, he found
himself alone with the sultan . His highness frankly
confessed the alarm which the strength of the chief
Raymanytek had excited in his mind, that he was even
then not far from the town, and that he himself was
determined at once to march out against the rebels, if
he could get a sufficient supply of powder and shot.
At the same time, he begged that if necessary he might
have the assistance of the steamer to protect his town.
Only one reply could be given, namely, that the visit
of the steamer was a mere casual thing, with a view to
ascertain the nature of the harbour; that the service she
was engaged on would admit of no delay ; but that, as
long as she was there, which could not be many hours
more, she should give protection to himself and his
family, as well as to the town, if in danger, and that a
small supply of ammunition should be given to him to
enable him to defend himself. He appeared quite satis
fied, and pleased with the reply. At the same time, as
the danger was imminent, and much blood might other
wise be shed, he requested that, since the orders by
which the steamer was obliged to abide would necessi
tate her immediate departure, the British flag might be
hoisted upon his citadel before she started, and receive
the proper salute, in order to intimidate the rebel chief ;
and further, that a letter might be written to the latter,
stating that the sultan of Johanna was an old ally of
Great Britain ;, and that the taking up arms against him
could no longer be permitted ; in short, that he had, there
L 2
148 A DIFFICULT POINT.
fore, better take himself off as quickly as possible, and
return to obedience.
This was a request which demanded very serious con
sideration . It was evident that Captain Hall had no
authority whatever to interfere in the matter . And
such , consequently, would have been the only reply of
many officers, perhaps most, under the same circum
stances. But, there was now something of humanity
called into play, something of pity, and something, per
haps, of pride. It was impossible not to feel a deep in
terest in the unhappy position of the young sultan ,
more particularly as he and all his family had on so
many occasions behaved with kindness and humanity
towards Englishmen in distress. IIe had , moreover,
stated his positive wish to become not only the ally,
but even the subject of Great Britain, and that he would
rather give up the island altogether to the English , and,
if necessary, retire from it elsewhere, than see it in its
then state of misery from the incursions of Raymanytek.
There was, in fact, something in Alloué's appeal
which was altogether irresistible ; and after much re
flection, and well knowing the responsibility incurred ,
it was agreed that the British flag should be hoisted
upon the citadel, under a salute of twenty -one guns.
This was accordingly done, and, for the first time, the
flag, which so many millions look ypon with pride,
waved over the citadel and walls of Johanna. The
sultan smiled, and appeared to take far greater pride
in that unstained ensign , than in his own independent
flag, or his own precarious authority.
Great were the rejoicings of the whole people of the
THE SULTAN'S VISIT. 149
town ; in fact, the day had been one of continued excite
ment to all parties. To crown the whole, a letter was
written to the rebel chief, according to the tenor of
what has been stated above, and which it was hoped
would induce Raymanytek to retire peaceably for the
present, and to defer to an opportunity less favourable
for himself, if not altogether to forego, his treasonable
designs, which had evidently been to depose the sultan,
and probably put him to death , and banish all his
family , assuming the whole authority himself in his place .
This had been a long and eventful day for the Ne
mesis, and, while we have been relating what was
passing on shore, those on board had been busy taking
in water and wood for the immediate continuance of
the voyage. One thing, however, yet remained ; the
sultan was to visit the ship, and see what to him were
wonders. He came on board in the afternoon, with
several attendants, in full Moorish dress, and, of course,
evinced the utmost astonishment at the arrangement of
the ship, the machinery, &c . To him and his followers
all was new. As they steamed round the bay, their
wonderment increased more and more at the ease and
rapidity with which she moved ; and, having partaken
of a little fruit and bread , and taken a most friendly
and, to all appearance, grateful leave of all on board,
he was landed in the ship’s boat, with his own flag flying
upon it.
On landing, he seemed quite overwhelmed with thank
fulness for the timely assistance rendered to him, and
unaffectedly sorry at parting with friends he had so
recently made. What the subsequent fate of the island
150 DEPARTURE FROM JOHANNA .
was we have as yet no means of ascertaining, commu
nication being extremely rare .
Just before parting, the young sultan gave Captain
Hall a letter under his own seal, acknowledging the
present of powder, &c. , and expressive of his thankful
>
ness for the assistance he had received . It was very
prettily written in the Arabic language.
On the afternoon of the 5th September, 1840, the
interesting little island of Johanna was left behind , with
many good wishes for the success of the sultan's arms,
and for the speedy restoration of peace and plenty to
his harassed subjects. It is feared , however, that these
hopes have scarcely yet been realized.
VOYAGE TO INDIA. 151
CHAPTER IX.
The Maldive Archipelago — Island of Feawar - Trade with India .
Arrival at Ceylon “ Mystery ” at an end — Notices of the Island
- Columbo - Fishing boats Curious contrivance Departure
Penang — Spice Productions — The “ Gem of the East”- Picturesque
Character - Projected naval depôt - Singapore- Advantageous posi
tion for commerce - Importance of free ports — Increase of trade
Chinese population - A colonizing people — Aspect of town - Depar
ture — Pedro Branco - Its dangers—Good site for Lighthouse to the
memory of Horsburgh — Monsoons- Island of Manilla - Spanish Colo
nies — Lieu -chew Islands — Basil Hall's description — Arrival of the
Nemesis at Macao — Surprise of the People — Visit to the Governor
Joins the squadron under the Honourable George Elliot at the mouth
of the Canton river.
The next place of destination towards which the
Nemesis was to shape her course was the island of
Ceylon, where at length was to be made known to her
the ultimate service upon which she was to be employed.
Owing to contrary winds and opposing currents, her
progress was, for the first few days, very slow. In
order to save fuel, on account of the distance and pro
bable length of the voyage, she proceeded principally
under canvass . But the south-westerly current was
found to be so strong as to retard her progress con
siderably ; and it was not until the 10th that she lost
sight of Comoro Island, the northernmost of the group
>
152 THE MONSOONS .
of that name, and, if measured in a direct line, conside
rably less than one hundred miles from Johanna.
A little to the northward of this, the south-east mon
soon began to be felt, and she proceeded more favour
ably, and crossed the Line on the morning of the 17th,
in about longitude east 54º. Horsburgh particu
larly notices the light, baffling winds, and the strong
south-west and southerly currents, which prevail during
the months of October and November among the Comoro
Islands . But it was found, upon this voyage, that these
difficulties presented themselves sometimes much earlier
than stated by him . It was now only the beginning
of September, and the southerly. current was found
setting down at the rate of even sixty miles a day. In
deed , both the winds and currents in the Mozambique
Channel had been found very different from what had
been expected . It was the season of the south-west mon
soon when she entered it in the month of August ; and
as it is usually stated that this wind continues to blow
until early in November, the Nemesis ought to have
had favourable winds to carry her quite through, even
later in the season . On the contrary, she met with a
strong head-wind, and a much stronger southerly cur
rent than she had reason to expect .
The opinion of Horsburg seems to be fully confirmed ,
that late in the season it is better for ships to avoid the
Mozambique Channel, and rather to proceed to the
eastward of Madagascar, and then pass between Diego
Garcia and the Seychelle Islands. Steamers, however,
would have less need of this were coal to be had at
Mozambique, but the Nemesis had taken in no coal
MALDIVE ISLANDS . 153
since she left the Cape of Good Hope in July ; and,
although she was fortunate enough to procure a small
supply of wood , still, from its greater bulk, she could
not carry so many days' fuel of it as she could of coal.
It was important, moreover, to reserve the coal she had
remaining, for any case of emergency that might arise,
and which could not be foreseen . On leaving Johanna
she had only twenty -five tons of coal on board, (very
little more than two days' consumption) besides a little
wood . It was, therefore, requisite to be very sparing
in its use ; and she consequently made almost no use
of her engines until four days after she crossed the
Line, and even then only for a few hours.
From the equator the current was always easterly ;
but nothing particular occurred worth noticing, except
that, as she approached the Maldive Islands, she en
countered very heavy squalls, accompanied with rain .
On the following day, the 1st October, the Maldives
were in sight ; and , in order to carry her through them
rapidly, steam was got up for a few hours, until she
came to, in the afternoon , within a quarter of a mile of
the shore, under one of the easternmost of the islands,
named Feawar, having shaped her course straight across
the middle of the long, and until lately, much dreaded
group of the Maldive Archipelago.
This extensive chain or archipelago of islands lies in
the very centre of the Indian Ocean , and , being placed
in the direct track of ships coming from the south -west
towards Ceylon, and the southern parts of Hindostan,
it was long dreaded by mariners, and shunned by them
as an almost impenetrable and certainly dangerous
154 MALDIVE ISLANDS.
barrier. It is stated by Horsburgh, that the early
traders from Europe to India were much better ac
quainted with these islands than modern navigators,
and that they were often passed through in those days
without any apprehension of danger. The knowledge
of their navigable channels must therefore have been ,
in a great measure, lost ; and, although the utmost
credit is due to the indefatigable Horsburgh for his
arduous efforts to restore some of the lost information,
it is to the liberality of the Indian government, and
particularly to the scientific labours and distinguished
services of Captain Moresby and Commander Powell, of
the Indian Navy, that we are indebted for the minute
and beautiful surveys of all these intricate channels
which have been given to the world since 1835 .
This archipelago is divided into numerous groups of
islands, called by the natives Atolls, each comprising a
considerable number of islands, some of which are inha
bited , and abound in cocoa-nut trees, while the smaller
ones are often mere barren rocks or sandy islets . The
number of these islands, large and small, amounts to
several hundred ; and the groups, or Atolls, into which
they are divided, are numerous. They are laid down
with wonderful accuracy and minuteness by Captains
Moresby and Powell ; so that, with the aid of their charts,
the intricate channels between them can be read with
almost the same facility as the type of a book . Thus
one of the greatest boons has been conferred upon
navigators of all nations. They are disposed in nearly a
meridian line from latitude 7° 6'N. to latitude 0° 40'S. ,
and consequently extend over the hottest portion of the
MALDIVE ISLANDS . 155
tropics, for the distance of more than three hundred and
seventy miles.
As the Nemesis passed through these islands, she
found that all the former difficulties had now vanished.
So accurate were the soundings, and given on so large
a scale, that it was more like reading a European road
book than guiding a vessel through an intricate laby
rinth of islands.
The very sight of aa steamer completely frightened the
inhabitants of the little island of Feawar ; who, although
they at length came alongside without much fear,
could never be persuaded to come on board the vessel .
However, they had no objection to act as guides, for the
purpose of showing what was to be seen upon their
island ; and, while a little necessary work was being
done to the vessel , two or three of the officers landed,
and were soon surrounded by a crowd of natives upon
the beach, quite unarmed.
A stroll along the shore, covered with pieces of coral ,
>
soon brought them to a mosque and burial-ground,
which was remarkable for the neatness with which it
was disposed. The little ornamented head-stones, with
inscriptions, and flowers in many places planted round
them, probably refreshed by the sacred water of a well
close at hand , proved, at all events, the great respect
paid to their dead, which is common among all Moham
medans. Indeed, the inhabitants of all these numerous
islands are mostly of that persuasion, and consider
themselves to be under the protection of England, the
common wish of almost all the little independent tribes
of the east.
156 CEYLON .
The village itself appeared to be at least half deserted,
the poor people, particularly the women , having hastily
run away, leaving their spinning-wheels at their doors.
They appear to carry their produce, consisting of oil,
fish, rope, mats, &c. to Ceylon and other parts of India,
in large boats of their own construction, bringing back
in return rice and English manufactured goods. In
deed, an extensive traffic is carried on between all the
northernmost of this extensive chain of islands, or sub
marine mountains, and the nearer parts of the coast of
India.
On the same evening, the Nemesis continued her voy
age, and, on the afternoon of the 5th October, reached
>
the harbour of Pointe de Galle, in Ceylon. She came in
under steam, with about eight tons of coal remaining,
having been exactly one month from Johanna.
The mystery attending the Nemesis was now to end .
Scarcely had she fairly reached her moorings, when a
despatch was delivered to the captain from the govern
ment of India, containing orders from the Governor
general in council, to complete the necessary repairs,
and take in coal and provisions, with all possible expe
dition , and then to proceed to join the fleet off the mouth
of the Canton River, placing himself under the orders of
the naval Commander -in -chief.
Great was now the rejoicing of both officers and men .
Her captain had already been made acquainted with his
destination, as far as Ceylon, before leaving England, but
no one on board, until now, had any certain information
as to what particular service they were to undertake
+ afterwards. The road to distinction was now made
THE MYSTERY SOLVED. 157
known to them : they were at once to be engaged in
active operations, in conjunction with her majesty's
forces. All regretted the length of time unavoidably
spent upon the voyage out, and none but wished the
intervening distance between Ceylon and China could
be passed with railroad speed .
Many were now the hopes and airy castles conjured x
up to the mind's vision ; many the speculations as to the
probable course of the dispute with China, then openly
expanding into the complicated net of war ; and not
few the wishes secretly felt, and scarce confessed, that
Chinese obstinacy might still hold out a little longer,
and the duplicity of Chinese statesmen again give neces
sity for the active interference of an armed force.
Notwithstanding, however, the unremitted exertions
of all on board, the Nemesis could not be got ready to
proceed on her voyage in less than eight clear days from
the time of her arrival at Pointe de Galle. The decks
had to be caulked throughout, there having been no
proper means for completing this very necessary process
at any earlier period ; and numerous other repairs
were required to be made before she could proceed on
her voyage. Added to this, the whole of the stores and
supplies had to be sent by land from Columbo, a dis
tance of seventy-two miles, as it was not then so well
known that all these things could be readily obtained at
Singapore, and that therefore a smaller quantity would
have sufficed . Indeed, from the more frequent commu
nication with Ceylon, through vessels touching at Pointe
de Galle for supplies, which has since taken place, every
provision has now been made at that port, without the
158 TRIP TO COLUMBO .
necessity of sending for stores to so great a distance as
Columbo.
Under all circumstances, no time was to be lost ; and
the anxiety to proceed on the voyage as quickly as pos
sible was so great, that Captain Hall determined to start
off for Columbo the same evening, in order to wait upon
his Excellency the Governor, and expedite the sending
on of the requisite stores. A highly-respectable mer
chant, who was going over, kindly offered him a seat in
his gig, and, after considerable exertion and fatigue,
they arrived at Columbo late on the following evening.
They had some evidence that the road was not always
perfectly safe ; for they had proceeded only a very few
miles from Ponte de Galle, when they found a wounded
man upon the road , who had just been robbed , and left
there helpless. A crowd of natives soon came round,
detailing what had happened ; but, as very little of what
they said could be understood, little attention was paid
to it. The wounded man having been carried on to a
police station, and there left, the journey was continued
till after dark .
On the following morning, the country presented itself
in all the rich tropical aspect of these regions. The
whole road to Columbo pointed out a fertile and luxu
riant country, and was in itself admirably adapted for
travelling.
Once arrived at Columbo, and fairly lodged in Mr.
Gibb's hospitable mansion , all the comforts and luxu
ries of the East were at once exhibited , and recalled to
mind the early days spent in that part of the globe. The
view was lovely, vegetation luxuriant, and the famed cin
TROPICAL CLIME . 159
namon -trees and coffee -plants in full perfection, besides
a number of beautiful shrubs.
For my own part, the more I have seen of tropical
countries, the more I have everywhere been fascinated
by their luxuriance, and enjoyed the brilliancy of their
skies. There is much to compensate for the occasional
oppression of the heat, which , after all, is less trouble
some or injurious than the chilling blasts of northern
climes ; and, generally speaking, with proper precaution ,,
it has been hardly a question with myself whether the
average degree of health and buoyancy of spirits is not
far greater than in less favoured though more hardy
regions . Every day that passes is one in which you feel
that you really live, for everything around you lives and
thrives so beautifully . Nevertheless , it must not be for
gotten that, after a few years spent in so relaxing a
climate , the constitution becomes enfeebled, and is only
to be restored by a visit to more bracing regions .
His Excellency having been waited on, directions were
instantly given, to provide whatever was requisite with
the least possible delay ; it was only to be regretted that
the distance from Pointe de Galle was so great.
Governor Mackenzie seemed to take much interest in
the steamer, and in her probable capabilities for the
peculiar service likely to be required of her in China ;
he had evidently made the subject his study, and upon
this, as upon other questions, evinced great intelli
gence .
Little need here be said about the island of Ceylon,
which has been recently so well described and treated
of by able and well- informed writers. The fine forti
160 COLUMBO .
fications of Columbo (the capital of the island,) the
governor's palace, the barracks and public offices, are all
worth seeing ; indeed, it is to be regretted that arrange
ments have not yet been made, by which the steamers
from Calcutta to the Red Sea, touching at Pointe de
Galle, might allow some of their passengers, instead of
wasting the valuable time necessary for taking in fuel
at Pointe de Galle, to cross over to Columbo. The
steamers might then touch at Columbo to pick them up,
together with other passengers likely to be found there,
now that the overland route is daily becoming more fre
quented ; she could pursue her voyage with very triling
additional expense, and very great convenience to the
public. It is hoped that some arrangement of this sort
may very shortly be brought about.
The most curious sight at Columbo is the little fleet
of fishing -boats, in the shape of long, narrow canoes, each
made out of the single trunk of a tree, with upper works
rigged on to them, falling in in such a way, that there
is just sufficient room for a man's body to turn round.
They start off with the land-wind in the morning, and
run out a long distance to fish, returning again with the
sea-breeze in the afternoon . Both ends are made ex
actly alike, so that, instead of going about, they have
only to shift the large lug-sail, the mast being in the
middle, and it is quite indifferent which end of the boat
goes foremost. To counteract the natural tendency of
so narrow a body to upset, two slight long spars are run
out at the side, connected at the outer ends by a long
and stout piece of wood, tapering at either extremity,
not unlike a narrow canoe ; this acts as a lever to keep
DEPARTURE OF THE NEMESIS. 161
the boat upright, and is generally rigged out upon the
windward side. If the breeze freshens, it is easy to send
a man or two out upon it, as an additional counterpoise
by their weight, and there they sit, without any appa
rent apprehension.
On the coast of Cochin China, about Cambodia, some
thing of the same description is in use ; but there the
boats are much larger, being long and well made, with
something of the latteen-rig ; and commonly four or
five men, almost naked, are to be seen sitting out, swing
ing their legs with apparent unconcern , upon a single
long spar, or pole, run out to windward, to counter
balance the depressing power of the large sail, when the
breeze is strong. It is altogether a curious and rather
interesting sight.
The healthiness of Ceylon is within the last few years
greatly improved, principally owing to the extensive
clearing of land which has taken place. The plantations
of coffee having been found at one time, as indeed they
are still, to yield a very large profit, induced a great num
ber of persons to enter into the speculation. Land was
readily purchased from government as quickly as it could
be obtained , at the rate of five shillings an acre ; and the
result has been a considerable increase in the exports of
the island, as well as an amelioration of its condition.
Coals, provisions, and stores of all kinds were sent on
board the Nemesis with the utmost expedition, and, on
the afternoon of the 14th October, she was once more
ready for sea. The public interest in the events gradu
ally growing up out of the negociations which were then
being carried on with the Chinese had gradually been
VOL . I. M
162 ARRIVAL AT PENANG .
raised to a high pitch, and a passage to China, to join the
force as a volunteer, was readily provided for the gover
nor's son, Lieutenant Mackenzie. Crowds of people ga
thered upon the shore in all directions to witness her de
parture, and the discharge of a few signal-rockets as soon
as it was dark added a little additional novelty to the
event .
Ten days sufficed to carry the Nemesis to the island
of Penang, or Prince of Wales's island. Her passage
had been longer than might have been expected, owing
in a great measure to the badness of the coal, which
caked and clogged up the furnaces in such a way that,
instead of requiring to be cleaned out only once in
about twenty-four hours, as would have been the case
with good coal, it was necessary to perform this process
no less than four times within the same period ; added
to which, the enormous quantity of barnacles which
adhered to her bottom (a frequent source of annoyance
before) greatly retarded her progress.
The island of Penang, which lies close upon the coast
of the peninsula of Malacca, from which it is separated
by a channel scarcely more than two miles broad, would
seem to be a place particularly adapted for steamers to
touch at. Indeed, it has become a question of late
whether it should not be provided with a sort of govern
ment dockyard, for the repair of the increased number
of ships of war and transports, belonging both to the
service of government and the East India Company,
which will necessarily have to pass through the straits
of Malacca, now that our intercourse with China is so
rapidly increasing. The harbour is perfectly safe, the
PENANG . 163
water at all times smooth , coals can easily be stored
there, and good wood can be obtained on the spot ;
moreover, it lies directly in the track of ships, or very
little out of it, as they generally prefer passing on the
Malacca side of the straits, particularly during the south
west monsoon. The heavy squalls which prevail on the
opposite coast are so severe, that they have at length
taken its very name, and are called Sumatras. They
are accompanied with terrific lightning, which often
does great mischief, and they are justly looked upon
with great dread .
Penang is very properly considered one of the loveliest
spots in the eastern world , considering its limited ex
tent ; and, from the abundance and excellence of its spice
productions, which come to greater perfection in the
straits than in any other part in which they have been
tried (except, perhaps, in the island of Java), this little
island has proved to be an extremely valuable possession .
It abounds in picturesque scenery, heightened by the
lovely views of the opposite coast of Malacca, called
Province Wellesley, which also belongs to the East
India Company. The numerous and excellent roads,
the hospitality of the inhabitants, and the richness of
the plain, or belt, which lies between the high, wooded
mountains in the rear, and the town and harbour, are,
perhaps, unequalled. This plain, together with the
sides of some of the adjoining mountains, is covered
with luxuriant plantations of nutmegs, cocoa-nut-trees,
and spice-trees of allkinds ; and altogether Penang is one
of the most attractive, as it is also one of the healthiest
spots in the east. It has by some been even called
M 2
164 STRAITS OF MALACCA .
the “ Gem ofthe Eastern Seas;" although the smallness
of its extent diminishes its importance . There is a fort
not far from the fine, covered jetty, or landing -place, of
considerable strength ; and,, with very moderate trouble
and expense , there is little doubt that Penang could be
made aa valuable naval depôt.
During the short period the Nemesis was detained at
Penang, she was laid upon a fine, hard bank of sand,
nearly dry at low water, for the purpose of examining
the state of her hull. Here again a large collection of
barnacles was found adhering to her, as described on a
former occasion, and they were not removed without
much labour. She was then thoroughly painted , and
was soon ready to proceed on her voyage.
The short passage down the straits of Malacca, to
wards Singapore, was easily performed in three days.
But here again , notwithstanding the anxiety of all on
board to reach the scene of future operations (concern
ing which there was no longer any “ mystery " ) with
the least possible delay, some detention was inevitable.
The north-east monsoon had already fairly set in, and
as vessels proceeding up the China sea, at this season ,
would have the wind directly against them, it was neces
sary that the steamer should take in the greatest possi
ble quantity of fuel she could carry, before she could
venture to leave Singapore. On this occasion, every
spare corner that could be found was filled with coal,
and even the decks were almost covered with coal-bags.
By this means, she was enabled to carry enough fuel for
full fifteen days' consumption, or about one hundred and
seventy -five tons.
SIR STAMFORD RAFFLES . 265
A few short remarks on Singapore may not be unin
teresting, before we proceed to describe the more stir
ring scenes which follow , and which brought so much
distinction to the Nemesis. The small island of Singa
pore, being situated just off the southern extremity of
the peninsula of Malacca, from which it is separated
only by a very narrow strait, must necessarily lie almost
directly in the track of all vessels passing up or down
the straits of Malacca, either to or from China, or any
of the intermediate places. Being easy of access to all
the numerous half- civilized tribes and nations which in
habit the islands of those seas, and within the influence
of the periodical winds or monsoons which, at certain
seasons, embolden even the Chinese, Siamese, and other
nations to venture upon the distant voyage, it is not
surprising that in the space of a few years it should
have risen to a very high degree of importance as a
commercial emporium .
The wisdom of the policy of Sir Stamford Raffles, in
establishing a free port in such an advantageous posi
tion, has been proved beyond all previous anticipation .
The perfect freedom of commercial intercourse, without
any restriction or charges of any kind, has given birth
to a yearly increasing commercial spirit among all the
surrounding nations. It is impossible to see the immense
number of curious junks and trading-vessels which arrive
from all parts during the proper season, without admi
ring the enterprising commercial spirit of all those diffe
rent tribes, and acknowledging the immense value to
England of similar distant outports, for the security and
extension of her commerce.
166 SINGAPORE .
The intercourse with Singapore has been rapidly in
creasing every year, but especially since the commence
ment of the war in China. Of course, all our ships of
war and transports touch at so convenient a place,
where supplies of every description can easily be ob
tained, and where every attention and kindness are shown
to strangers, both by the authorities and by the resi
dent inerchants. Much credit is due to the late go
vernor, Mr. Bonham, for the intelligence and activity
which he exhibited , in every thing that could in any way
forward the objects of the expedition, and for the readi
ness with which he endeavoured to meet all the wishes
of those who were concerned in it. His hospitality and
personal attention were acknowledged by all.
In some respects, Singapore forms a good introduction
to a first visit to China. It has a very large Chinese
population (not less than 20,000), to which yearly addi
tions are made, on the arrival of the large trading junks,
in which they come down voluntarily to seek employment.
Hundreds of them arrive in the greatest destitution,
without even the means of paying the boat-hire to ena
ble them to reach the shore, until they are hired by
some masters. They are the principal mechanics and
labourers of the town, and also act as household ser
vants, while many of them are employed in the cultiva
tion of spices and of sugar, or in clearing land. There is
no kind of labour or employment which a Chinaman will
not readily undertake ; and they appear to succeed
equally well in all, with the exception of tending sheep
or cattle, which is an occupation they are little fond of.
The town has something of a Chinese aspect, from
SINGAPORE . 167
the number of Chinamen who are employed in every
capacity ; and the fruits and vegetables are principally
cultivated and brought to market by people of that
nation . In Java, Penang, and elsewhere, they are also
to be met with in great numbers ; which is quite suffi
cient to prove (were proof wanting) how much they are
naturally disposed to become a colonizing people. There
is hardly any part of the world to which a Chinaman
would refuse to go, if led and managed by some of his
own countrymen. But, wherever they go, they carry
the vice of opium - smoking with them , and it is needless
to say that it thrives at Singapore to its fullest extent,
and that a large revenue is annually derived from the
monopoly of the sale of the drug.
The climate of Singapore is healthy, although the
soil is wet, owing to the constant rains; and the heat is,
perhaps, never excessive, although the place is situated
only about seventy miles from the equator.
It might be thought by many, that the recent opening
>
of the new Chinese ports, from some of which large
trading junks have annually come down to seek their
cargoes at Singapore, would prove injurious to the future
trade of the latter, since it would no longer be neces
sary for the Chinese to go abroad to seek for that which
will now be brought to them at their own doors. This
apprehension, however, seems to be little entertained on
the spot, because there can be little doubt that whatever
tends to augment the general foreign trade with China
must benefit Singapore, which lies on the high - road to
it, to a greater or less extent. Singapore has nothing
to fear as regards its future commercial prosperity,
168 LIGHTHOUSE WANTED .
which is likely rather to increase than to diminish, in
consequence of the general increase of trade with China
and the neighbouring islands.
Enough has now been said concerning this interesting
commercial settlement, which in a few years has become
so famous in all parts of the world ; and we must now
again rejoin the Nemesis, as she fires her parting salute,
and then stands away boldly towards that remarkable
country in which her course of honour and distinction
is now to be run.
On the 4th of November she resumed her voyage,
and passed the little rocky island of Pedro Branco
early on the following morning. This dangerous and
sometimes half- covered rock lies nearly in the direct
track for vessels proceeding up the China Sea ; and on
its southern side are two dangerous ledges or reefs, run
ning out from it to the distance of more than a mile,
which, at high water, can scarcely be traced above the
surface. On the opposite or northern side there is deep
water in not less than sixteen or seventeen fathoms,
close in to the rock ; and, moreover, the tides in its
neighbourhood are very irregular, not only in point of
time, but also in direction and velocity. Nor are these
the only dangers to be met with in this locality. Hence
it will readily appear that a lighthouse placed upon Pe
dro Branco would be of essential utility to all navigators
who have occasion to pass up or down the China Sea.
A ship leaving Singapore for Hong Kong, for instance,
might then start at such an hour in the evening as would
enable her to make the light on Pedro Branco before
morning ; by which means, her true position being ascer
RESEARCHES OF HORSBURGH . 169
tained, she might stand on without fear of any danger.
The expense of erecting the lighthouse would not be
great, as the elevation would only be moderate, and the
expense of maintaining it might be defrayed by levying
a small light-duty at Singapore upon all vessels passing
up or down the China Sea.
It has been often suggested that this would be aa most
advantageous site for the proposed monument to the
memory of the distinguished Horsburgh, to whom too
much honour cannot be paid for his inestimable works,
so much relied on by all navigators who frequent the
Eastern seas . It would be difficult to find a more ad
vantageous or appropriate position, for the best of all
monuments to his fame, than this little, dangerous island
of Pedro Branco, situated as it is in the very centre of
some of his most valued researches ; while the recent
opening of the new ports in China, and the possession of
Hong Kong, give an increased importance to subjects
connected with the navigation of those seas. There is
not a single vessel, either British or foreign, which tra
verses those regions, which is not indebted to Hors
burgh for the instructions which render her voyage se
cure ; and a lighthouse upon Pedro Branco would do
no less service to navigators than it would honour to
the memory of Horsburgh.
The Nemesis had now passed this rocky little island ,
and at once found the full strength of the north -east
monsoon blowing steadily against her, so that 66“ full
steam ” was necessary to enable her to proceed. On the
afternoon of the 16th, the high land of the Spanish
possessions of Luconia (better known by the name of
170 MANILLA .
the capital town, Manilla) came in sight ; and, on the
following morning, the Nemesis passed very near the
port, but without venturing to enter it, on account of
the delay which it would cause, although fuel was
already much wanted .
An immense pile of wood was descried, laid up on
the beach , near a village on the coast ; and a boat was
sent in, to endeavour to purchase it, but without suc
cess, as the Spaniards could not be persuaded to make
any other answer than a sulky refusal.
The appearance of the island was very striking.
Bold, picturesque mountains, fine woods, with here and
there a few sugar-plantations extending along the val
leys, and rich, green , cocoa-nut groves, to vary the
prospect — all these combined, or alternating with each
other, made the aspect of the island very attractive..
Unfortunately, no time could be spared to visit the
interior of the country, as the voyage had already been
much protracted, and the north-east monsoon was blow
ing directly against the vessel. Her progress was there
fore slow, and the want of fuel began to be much
felt .
On the 24th, the Lieu-chew islands came in sight,
and recalled many interesting recollections to Captain
Hall's mind, who had visited them, in early life, under
the command of Captain Basil Hall, whose description
of its inhabitants excited the greatest interest among
f the curious, and was almost disbelieved by the wonder
loving fireside traveller.
At daylight on the following morning, the 25th No
vember, the Nemesis steamed through the Typa an
ARRIVAL AT MACAO . 171
chorage, which lies opposite Macao, and ran close in to
the town, where the water is so shallow that none but
trading -boats can venture so far. The sudden appear
ance of so large and mysterious-looking a vessel natu
rally excited the greatest astonishment among all classes,
both of the Portuguese and Chinese residents. The sa
luting of the Portuguese flag, as she passed, sufficed to
announce that something unusual had happened ; and
crowds of people came down to the Praya Grande, or
Esplanade, to look at the first iron steamer which had
ever anchored in their quiet little bay. Her very light
draught of water seemed to them quite incompatible
with her size ; and even the Portuguese governor was so
much taken by surprise, that he sent off a messenger
expressly to the vessel, to warn her captain of the sup
posed danger which he ran by venturing so close in
shore. It is probable, however, that his Excellency was
not quite satisfied with the near approach of an armed
steamer, within short range of his own palace; and,
moreover, the firing of a salute, almost close under his
windows, had speedily frightened away the fair ladies
who had been observed crowding at all the windows
with eager curiosity.
As soon as the first excitement had passed, Captain
Hall waited upon the governor, to assure him that he
had come with the most peaceable intentions, and to
thank his Excellency for the friendly warning he had
given, with respect to the safety of the vessel. At the
same time, he begged to inform his Excellency, that he
was already thoroughly acquainted with the harbour
and anchorage of Macao, from early recollection of all
172 THE BRITISH SQUADRON .
those localities ; as he had served as midshipman on
board the Lyra, during Lord Amherst's embassy to
China, in 1816 .
It was now ascertained that the English admiral, the
Honourable George Elliot, was at anchor with his
fleet in Tongkoo roads, below the Bogue forts ; and, ac
cordingly, the Nemesis proceeded to join the squadron,
after the delay of only a few hours. Her arrival was
announced by the salute to the admiral's flag, which
was immediately returned by the Wellesley, precisely
as if the Nemesis had been a regular man-of-war.
The Nemesis now found herself in company with the
three line -of-battle ships, Wellesley, Melville, and Blen
heim, together with H. M. S. Druid, Herald , Modeste,
Hyacinth, and the Jupiter troop-ship. Thus, then, after
8
all her toil and hardships, the gallant Nemesis had at
length reached the proud post towards which she had
so long been struggling. It was highly gratifying to
learn that she had still arrived soon enough to be able
to take part in the expected brilliant operations ; and
the admiral and many of his officers expressed their
sense of the perfect adaptation of her construction and
armament to all the purposes likely to be required of
her ; and her arrival just at that time was hailed with
peculiar pleasure. Her voyage from England had in
deed been a long one ; very nearly eight months having
elapsed since she bade adieu to Portsmouth. But her
trials had been many during that period. She had
started in the worst season of the year ; and had en
countered, throughout nearly the whole voyage, unusual
weather and unforeseen difficulties. She had happily
COALING . 173
survived them all ; and the efforts which had been al
ready made to enable her to earn for herself a name
gave happy promise of her future destiny.
The excitement on board was general, now that she
at length found her iron frame swinging, side by side,
with the famed “ wooden walls” of England's glory ;
and the prospect of immediate service, in active opera
tions against the enemy, stimulated the exertions of
every individual. For some days, however, she was
compelled to content herself with the unwelcome opera
tion of " coaling" in Tongkoo Bay. In the mean time,
the ships of war had sailed, leaving her to follow them
as soon as she could be got ready ; and now, while this
black and tedious process is going on, we cannot be
better employed than in taking a short survey of the
events which had immediately preceded her arrival, and
of the more important occurrences which led to such
momentous consequences.
174 RETROSPECT.
CHAPTER X.
General review of events which preceded the arrival of the Nemesis –
Origin of our difficulties — Lord Napier - Captain Elliot — 1838 –
Execution of criminals — Chinese mob -Foreigners unprotected— No
tices by Captain Elliot against the opium trade — Remarks thereon -
Resources of China - Political crisis at Pekin — Movement - Party in
-
China — Led by the Empress — Her ability, attractions, and power
. -
Her fall, and death - Revival of old prejudices — Hatred of foreigners
called “ Patriotism" . -Stringent measures against opium-Lectures of
the Emperor — Death of the Emperor's son — Official smugglers - -
Opium -mania -- Revulsion of feeling against it — Persecutions The
traffic still thrives — Mode of smuggling — Arrival of Commissioner
Lin at Canton His character — Contrasted with that of Keshen and
Elliot — Governor Tang — His character—His son a smuggler - Suspi
cions of Lin .
The abolition of the privileges of the East India
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