the last season, remained almost entirely healthy.
There is little doubt that in a short time many Euro
peans will take up their residence in that neighbour
hood . There is another detachment stationed at Shekpy
wan,, and I believe there was, or is, another small detach
ment at the eastern extremity of the island. There is
every probability that a naval yard will be formed also
on the southern side, probably in the bay where the
Alceste and Lyra anchored in 1816. Here there is
plenty of water for the largest ships, and perfect shelter
from the fury of the typhoons, which cannot be found
on any part of the northern coast. It is true that there
is not room for a large ship to work in, but there will
always be steamers stationed at Hong Kong, and the
facility of towing a ship in will remedy all the supposed
inconvenience of narrow space.
The third place proposed for the site of a naval yard
was Navy Bay, at the western extremity of the harbour ;
but it lies fully exposed to the whole fury of a typhoon,
being, in fact, a lee-shore during the whole duration of
the storm ; and it has proved to the troops on shore one
of the most unhealthy spots in the island.
It is extremely difficult to form any tolerable esti
mate of the Chinese population on the island. It varies
continually, a great part of the people being migratory.
80 HONG KONG.
When we first took the island there were probably about
five thousand Chinese upon it, exclusive of the boat
people, casual labourers from the opposite coast, and
others of a migratory description. They were distri
buted into fourteen or fifteen villages or hamlets, of
which the principal, as before stated , was Chek-chu, on
the southern side, situated in a bay partly formed by the
long irregular headland which runs out and takes the
name of Tytam Head.. This bay , together with Tytam
Bay, will doubtless soon become a favourite spot for
the retired residences of Europeans .
Since we have held possession of the island, the Chi
nese have naturally been attracted to it in great numbers.
The tradesmen, mechanics, servants to English residents,
labourers, boatmen , and market-people, are all Chinese.
Add to these, also, a small body of Chinese police, and
we shall find that the population must be considerable.
In all the warehouses of the merchants a vast number
of porters and attendants are employed ; all the houses
are built by Chinese workmen , and a vast number are
also employed by government upon the public roads
and works. The number of migratory, or trading
people, who come down from Canton, Macao, and other
parts, is also large ; so that, upon the whole, the high
estimate of 30,000, which has been given , may not
be much overrated . But this number probably in
cludes the Europeans, the number of whom , exclusive
of the military, cannot be large, perhaps a very few
hundreds.
The reputed unhealthiness of the town of Victoria has
deterred many from coming over from Macao for the
HONG KONG . 81
present, who otherwise contemplated establishing them
selves on the island. The uncertainty which has pre
vailed respecting the liberty to store opium , has also
tended to give a check to the originally rapid progress
of the settlement.
In the mean time, the Portuguese, becoming fully
sensible of the deterioration of the value of property at
Macao, owing to the sudden rise of a rival European
settlement in their neighbourhood, began to take into
consideration the propriety of rendering Macao aa free
port, similar to Hong Kong, and probably without any
restrictions as to opium . Great efforts have been made
to effect this object, and the Portuguese governor had
gone up to Canton, attended by his suite, with a view
to confer with the authorities, in the hope of procuring
from the government the recognition of greater privi
leges than they had hitherto enjoyed . This circum
stance, together with the momentary pause at Hong
Kong, had tended to reassure the European inhabitants
of Macao, and to raise the value of houses ( which had
previously fallen), from ten to fifteen per cent.
If means should be found (of which strong hopes are
entertained ) of improving the condition of Hong Kong,
as regards its healthiness, no attempted rivalry of Macao
could affect the new settlement to any extent. It has
neither a harbour for ships to anchor in, sufficiently
near the town, nor ground upon which warehouses could
be built, nor can the Portuguese officers ever possess
more than a very restricted and, perhaps, precarious
authority .
The wonderful progress of our settlement at Hong
VOL . II . G
82 HONG KONG .
Kong, in the first instance, affords, perhaps, one of the
most striking instances that has ever been recorded, of
the astonishing energy and enterprise of the British
character. Great as were the early strides made even
by some of the Australian colonies, situated, too, at the
opposite end of the globe, their progress, compared with
that of Hong Kong, was slow and difficult. When our
forces were assembled in the harbour of Hong Kong, on
their return from Canton, in June, 1841 , there was not a
single regularly built house, fit for the habitation of Eu
ropeans, upon the island ; for the Chinese villages can
hardly be taken into account. When the expedition set
sail for Amoy, about two months afterwards, a few
mat-sheds and temporary buts were all that indicated
the future site of the town of Victoria, or pointed out
what was soon to become the centre of British conmerce
in that part of the world , and the seat of British power
upon the threshold of the most populous empire the
world ever saw. But arrangements had already com
menced preparatory to the formation of a settlement ;
and these were of such a nature as to lead to the assu
rance that the island would not, under any circum
stances, be restored to the Chinese.
The first sale by auction, of land, or rather of the
annual quit -rents only, was held in June. On the 7th
of that month, Hong Kong was declared to be a free
port, and on the 22nd, Mr. A. R. Johnston, the deputy
superintendent of trade, was appointed acting governor
of the island .
The portion of land put up for sale in the first in
stance consisted of only thirty-four lots, each of which
HONG KONG . 83
was to have a sea -frontage of about one hundred
feet ; but the depth of each lot, of course, varied con
siderably, according to the nature of the ground. The
>
sale of the annual quit-rents only, payable in advance,
produced no less a sum than £3,165 10s. yearly, at
this first sale. Equally high prices also were obtained
on subsequent occasions. Moreover, one of the condi
tions of sale was, that each purchaser should be required
to incur an outlay upon each lot, within the first six
months, either in building or otherwise, of not less than
one thousand dollars, or upwards of two hundred and
twenty -two pounds sterling, and a deposit of five hun
O
dred dollars was to be paid into the hands of the trea
surer, within one week , but was to be repayable as soon
as an equal amount had been expended.
Accordingly, within six months from the time above
named, wonderful improvements had taken place, al
though much preliminary work was necessary before
any solid buildings could be erected . In fact, the first
regular house built for Europeans was not completed
until September or October following ; and, as it was
constructed entirely by Chinese mechanics, it assumed
very much the form of a Chinese house.
The government now began to form an excellent
road, called the Queen's Road, along the front of the
harbour, and to encourage improvements in every pos
sible way. The elements of a regular establishment
were soon formed , and the nucleus of a powerful Euro
pean community was soon planted upon the borders of
haughty China. Its progress from this moment was won
derful, and no stronger argument than this can be addu
G 2
84 HONG KONG .
ced to point out the necessity of such an emporium as
Hong Kong, and the impossibility of continuing the
former state of things.
Within one year from the completion of the first
house, not only were regular streets and bazaars for the
Chinese erected , but numerous large substantial ware
houses were built, mostly of stone, some already finished ,
and others in progress. Wharfs and jetties were con
structed of the most substantial kind ; the sound of the
stonemason's hammer was heard in every direction, and
a good road was in progress, and an admirable market
was established in English style, under covered sheds,
and well-regulated by the police. The Chinese wil-.
lingly resorted to it, and brought abundant supplies of
every description , readily submitting themselves to all
the regulations. Large commissariat stores and other
public buildings, including barracks at either end of the
town , were finished. The road, which was carried along
the foot of the hills, extended already to a distance of
nearly four miles, and a cut was being made through a
high sand -hill, in order to continue it further ; and at
intervals, along the whole of the distance, substantial
and even elegant buildings were already erected . The
numerous conical hills which distinguish this part of the
island were nearly all levelled at the top, in readiness
to commence building new houses ; stone bridges were
in progress, and the road was being rapidly continued
over the hills at the eastern end of Victoria Bay, lead
ing down to Tytam Bay, and the picturesque village of
Chek - chu .
In short, whether we look at the public spirit shown
HONG KONG . 85
by government, or the energy and liberality of private
individuals, who seemed, by one common consent, to
set about forming a settlement such as had never been
heard of before, we cannot but wonder at the results,
and foresee the influence which England must hence
forth always exercise over the hitherto unapproachable
Chinese. The Chinese inhabitants seemed to fall readily
into our ways and habits ; their labourers and mechanics
worked well and willingly for moderate pay, and came
over in crowds from the opposite coast to seek work ;
tradesmen crowded in to occupy the little shops in the
bazaars ; two European hotels and billiard -rooms were
completed ; and, in short, every necessary and most
luxuries could be obtained with facility at Hong Kong,
within the first year of its permanent settlement. Even
the Portuguese missionaries came over and built a sort
of convent and a chapel ; the Morrison Education
Society and the Missionary Hospital Society com
menced their buildings ; more than one missionary
society made it their head - quarters, and the Anglo
Chinese College, at Malacca, was about to be removed
to this more favourable spot . A small Roman Catholic
chapel was nearly finished, and a neat little American
Baptist chapel had been opened for divine service, being
the first Protestant place of public worship ever esta
blished in that part of the world ; of course, with the
exception of the old company's chapel, in the factory at
Canton. There was, however, no Church of England
service performed at that time on the island ; a deficiency
which happily has since been remedied .
Foreign merchants had also cominenced building, and
86 HONG KONG .
it was a curious sight to see the hundreds of Chinese
labourers working upon the construction of our houses
and roads, and flocking from all quarters to furnish
us with supplies, and seeking their living by serving us
in every way , at the very time when we were at war
with their government, and carrying on hostile opera
tions against their countrymen to the northward. At
the same time, also, Chinese tailors and shoemakers
were busy in their little shops making clothes for us,
and Chinese stewards superintended our establishments,
while Chinese servants (in their native costume, tails
and all) were cheerfully waiting upon us at table : and
all this within little more than one year after the first
land -sale at Hong Kong, and while we were still at war.
There appears to have been some little mistake in the
original site of the town, the principal part of which, or,
at least, the part most inhabited by the Chinese, is situ
ated in a great measure upon the declivity of the highest
of the mountains which shut in the harbour. The space
for building is very limited , and, indeed, this is the case
along the whole shore. Gradually people have spread
themselves eastward along the front of the harbour,
and, probably, at no very distant time a second town
will spring up at the eastern end of the harbour ; in
deed the buildings already erected by Messrs. Jardine
and Matheson are so extensive, as to form almost a
town of themselves. But, the great distance from one
end of Hong Kong, or rather of Victoria to the other,
is already a source of great inconvenience, particularly
in a hot country. In a short time, the establishment
of an exchange in some central part will probably
HONG KONG. 87
be undertaken, and will go far to remedy the incon
venience.
It is unfortunate that the space between the foot of the
mountains and the edge of the sea is so very limited . It
would have been a great advantage to have been able to
form a quay or esplanade along the front of the har
bour, with warehouses and dwelling-houses in the rear.
But this was not practicable; and, consequently, the
back of the warehouses in most instances faces the
water, which in some measure detracts from the appear
ance of the town, as seen from the harbour. Neverthe
less, it is impossible for the stranger not to be struck
with the first view of it as he approaches. He could
scarcely be prepared to see so many large, handsome
buildings occupying a great extent of frontage, in a
settlement so recently acquired .
There are few things more striking of the kind than
the view of the Bay of Victoria and the roads of Hong
Kong, from any one of the hills at its eastern end to
wards Matheson's Point. The number of European
vessels, Chinese junks, boats of all kinds, and the long
line of handsome buildings skirting the bay, and lighted
up by a brilliant sun piercing a cloudless atmosphere,
present a picturesque and interesting scene, which is
scarcely detracted from even by the barren mountains
in the rear .
A reference to the accompanying map will suffice to
point out the site of the different public buildings already
erected .
As regards the defences of Hong Kong, it is evident
that our main reliance must always be placed upon our
88 HONG KONG .
ships of war. The two small batteries already erected
could be of little service against an enemy; but a plan
has been submitted by Major Aldrich, the commanding
engineer, for forming a large fort somewhere about the
centre of the bay, and the occupiers of land, on the spot
selected by that officer, received notice to be prepared
to surrender their rights to the government, for which
they were to receive compensation, and permission to
select land elsewhere. But this plan did not meet the
concurrence of Sir Henry Pottinger, although he re
ferred it for the consideration of the government at
home. There is, however, little likelihood of its being
adopted.
The question of the tenure of land for the future at
Hong Kong, or rather the terms upon which it can be
obtained from the government, is one of the highest im
portance. It is understood that it is not the intention
of government to permit any land to be alienated from
the crown . Future sales of land will probably be
effected in the same way as the earlier ones ; that is,
merely the annual rental of the different lots of land
will be put up to auction . No regulations upon this
subject have yet been issued ; and, most likely, the new
governor, Mr. Davis, will have some discretionary power
in fixing the precise terms upon which the right of occu
pation of land will be disposed of. The system of an
nual rentals to government in a colony circumstanced
as Hong Kong is,-a free port, a soil mostly barren, and
an island of very limited extent,-must appear to every
one the most judicious plan to adopt. A permanent
annual fund will thus be created for the purposes of go
HONG KONG . 89
vernment, and one which must increase every year
rather than diminish.
On the other hand, the absolute sale of the fee-simple
of the land would certainly produce a considerable sum
for temporary use, and would provide means for com
pleting extensive public works without any charge to
the mother country. But this fund would soon be ex
hausted , and then nothing whatever would remain to
contribute to the heavy public expenses of the island .
In aa free port you cannot levy a regular revenue from
duties of any kind, and the small sum that could be
raised by licences and special local charges could never
be considerable. Hong Kong will always possess the
immense advantage of abundant labour at a reasonable
rate. Any number of Chinamen wbich could possibly
be required will always be readily obtained from the
mainland .
I must not omit to mention, among the strong cha
racteristics of English colonization, the establishment of
a free press at Hong Kong. A newspaper is usually
one of the first undertakings in an English settlement.
It has been said, in respect to colonization, that the first
thing the French undertake is to build a fort, the Spa
niards a church, and the English a factory or a ware
house ; but, perhaps, it is more characteristic still, that
one of the first things the English establish is a press.
The Englishman carries with him his birthright of free
discussion ; and the power of having a good hearty
grumble in print compensates him for many early incon
veniences of a new settlement . There are four English
newspapers published in China : the Hong Kong Ga
90 HONG KONG.
zette , the Eastern Globe, the Hong Kong Register, and
the Canton Press ; of which the last is published at
Macao, and the other three at Hong Kong. In the
first -named all the government notices are inserted by
authority.
According to the latest accounts, the Morrison Insti
tution had been opened for some time, and the youths
who were being educated were making good progress.
The Seamen's Hospital for the merchant service was
opened on the 1st of August last, and was calculated to
afford accommodation to fifty men and officers. This in
stitution is in a measure a self- supporting one, a certain
sum being paid daily for the maintenance of each person
admitted .
It is impossible to contemplate the wonderful pro
gress made in so short a period of time in this last ac
quisition of the British crown, without astonishment at
the past and present, and great hopes of the future.
Hong Kong may have received an unexpected check,
owing to the unhealthiness of the season which has just
past ; but, having already advanced so far, it must con
tinue to progress, and to regain that vigour which has
for a moment been impaired . We cannot but hope that
means will yet be found to render the island less preju
dicial to the health of Europeans, and that it will rise
to become a boasted spot in the wide empire of Great
Britain . A few remarks are yet reserved for the next
chapter.
HONG KONG . 91
CHAPTER XXV .
HONG KONG CONTINUED .
General remarks — Future government of Hong Kong - Prospects of
the opium - trade - Sir Henry Pottinger's proclamations - Attempts of
Americans to enter China in opposition to the Mandarins — Visit to
Chang-chow-Mutual surrender of criminals — Account of the great
Typhoon - Superstitions of the Chinese — Dreadful destruction - Dis
tressing scenes - Danger of the two Plenipotentiaries —- Presence of
mind of Captain Elliot - Wreck of the Louisa_Imminent danger and
narrow escape - Nemesis renders assistance, after the typhoon – Nar
row escape of the Starling — Arrival of Sir Henry Pottinger and Sir
William Parker from England.
It is intended that Hong Kong shall be governed
upon the same principles by which other crown colonies
gulated , namely, that there shall be a legislative
and an executive council, to aid the governor with their
advice and assistance.
The importance of Hong Kong, not only with regard
to the commerce of all nations with China, but more
especially with reference to our relations with the Chi
nese government, cannot be estimated too highly.
However scrupulous we may be in the first instance to
limit our intercourse, as much as possible, to the mere
commercial questions which may arise, it is impossible
92 HONG KONG.
not to foresee that other complications may result from
it, the issue of which it would be presumptuous to pre
dict. A new era has at length opened upon China, a
sudden and almost incredible change in all her relations
with foreigners ; and the ease and apparent readiness
with which she has acceded to all the proposed arrange
ments respecting trade, is perhaps not less remark
able than the pertinacious obstinacy with which she had
so long and so haughtily refused to make any change
whatever in the established order of things.
Providence has at length ordained that a vast empire,
which comprises nearly a third of the human race, shall
no longer remain totally excluded from the great family
society of nations ; and we cannot but believe that the
period has at length arrived when that wonderful nation
is, by a slow but steady progress, to be brought under
the influence of Christianity. But, while we are im
pressed with this feeling, let us not be too hasty in pre
cipitating a crisis which may convulse a mighty empire
from one end to the other. This, then , leads us to the
momentous question of the ultimate disorganization or
breaking up of the Chinese empire. This is the great
crent which we have to dread ; for who can contemplate
the fearful results of such a crisis without alarm, and
without aa desire to prevent a catastrophe of so vast a
nature ?
In this point of view, the possession of Hong Kong,
the state of our relations with the Chinese government,
and the difficult questions which may possibly, at no
distant period, require our most anxious attention, (it
must not be forgotten that the present Emperor of
HONG KONG, 93
China is already in the decline of life) involve a degree
of responsibility which cannot be too deeply felt, and
can scarcely be approached without misgivings. Every
member of the government of Hong Kong must, there
fore, be keenly alive to the responsibility of his posi
tion , and must watch with profound anxiety every one
of the widely spreading circles into which the acts of
our administration may ultimately extend themselves.
We must stand up before the Chinese government, not
only in the relation of a friend, but of an ally ; and, in
stead of weakening its authority, we ought rather to
support its influence in the eyes of its own people. Our
intercourse with that remarkable nation ought to be
recorded in the pages of history as a blessing, and not,
what it might readily become, without great caution
and prudence — a curse. We cannot but believe that
this little England is yet destined to play a wonderful
part among the nations of the earth1 ; and that it is still
reserved for her, by Providence, to be the benefactor of
the human race, and not least so of that vast portion of
it which acknowledges the dominion of the Emperor of
China .
Impressed with the truth of these observations, the
first great and difficult question which awakens our
anxiety, is that of the future relations of the opium
trade, and the course which is to be pursued with respect
to it at Hong Kong. Great anxiety has been felt as to
the regulations which may be applied to it, in our own
settlement, which is understood to be in all respects a
free port. It would seem, therefore, that the storage
of opium at Hong Kong could hardly be prohibited ;
94 HONG KONG.
and yet it is difficult to discover how it would be possi
ble, in that case, to avoid the dilemma of appearing in
the eyes of the Chinese government to sanction, and
even encourage, a description of trade especially prohi
bited by the Emperor. The simplest and indeed the
only effectual mode by which all the difficulties of the
question could be surmounted would be, inducing the
Chinese government to legalize the trade, and to con
sent to the introduction of the drug, upon payment of
a certain duty.
No stronger arguments could be advanced in favour
of this step than those already employed by Chinese
writers themselves, in the various memorials presented
to government upon the subject. Although the opium
trade is not even alluded to in either of our recent
treaties, it is well known that Sir Henry Pottinger
has used his best efforts to induce the Chinese govern
ment to consent to the legalization of the trade, and
to introduce the article into the tariff. It is possible
that this object may be ultimately effected , but at
present we have no reason to believe that any material
progress has been made towards bringing this question
to a satisfactory conclusion.
In the mean time, it is evident that we are bound to
discourage the violation of Chinese law, as much as
possible, where that law is so easily evaded. Sir Henry
Pottinger's proclamation of the 1st of August last,
against taking opium to any of the new ports, is suffi
ciently strong and explicit ; and it is distinctly declared ,
that any one who may do so must be prepared to take
upon himself all the consequences, and that he will meet
HONG KONG. 95
with no support or protection from her Majesty's con
suls or other officers . In another proclamation, his
excellency declares that he will adopt the most strin
gent measures against any parties who may even attempt
to evade any of the provisions of the commercial treaty ;
and further, that he will in no case permit the national
honour, dignity, and good faith, to be compromised in
the estimation of the Chinese government, and that, if
necessary , he will respectfully trust that the legislature
of Great Britain will hold him indemnified for adopt
ing such measures as the particular emergency may
require.
Nevertheless, the opium-trade has never been more
thriving than during the past year, and bitter com
plaints have appeared in the Pekin gazettes, of the intro
duction of the drug even into the imperial palace. The
Emperor appears to be as hostile to the opium-mania as
ever, and yet all his measures against it are quite as in
effectual as they have ever been. In fact, the people
are determined to enjoy the forbidden luxury at all ha
zards, and no means hitherto attempted have deterred
even the public officers of government from conniving
at the clandestine trade, nor is it likely that they will
ever be proof against the temptation of heavy bribes,
which the large profits derived from the traffic enable
those concerned in it to offer .
Under these circumstances, we cannot but believe that
the government will ere long be induced to take the
only rational view of the question, and permit it to be
come a legal trade, under certain wholesome regulations.
It has been proposed that a certain fixed duty should
96 HONG KONG .
be levied upon the drug when imported into Hong
Kong ; but this would be ineffectual, because, if the duty
were small, it would answer no good purpose whatever,
and, if it were heavy, little or no opium would be
brought into the island, except by smuggling ; the
merchants would in that case store it, as heretofore,
on board ship .
The new governor will go out armed with full power
to establish such regulations, with regard to this and
other important matters, as may appear to him most
compatible with our engagements with the Chinese go
vernment, and best calculated to meet all the difficulties
of the question. Much , therefore, must depend upon
the judgment and discretion of that high functionary,
from whose known ability and knowledge of the Chinese
character great expectations are derived.
Should the trade in opium become ultimately le
galized, it cannot be doubted that it would greatly tend
to the advantage of Hong Kong, and would induce
many Chinese merchants to come over and seek it there,
who would at the same time be tempted to make other
purchases as well. The drug would then in some mea
sure be paid for in the produce of the country, and
not, as it is at present, in silver exclusively, and , in
fact, all the commercial relations of the country would
at once be placed upon a much more satisfactory footing.
Notwithstanding the known unhealthiness of Hong
Kong during the last season, merchants are still inclined
to form establishments there, under the impression that
the whole question of the traffic in opium will, at no dis
tant period, be more advantageously settled .
OUR DIFFICULTIES IN CHINA . 97
There is, however, another point out of which diffi
culties may arise, besides the one above -mentioned ;
namely, the attempts of foreigners to enter China at
other places besides the five ports, or even, at these
latter, to push themselves far beyond the limits indi
cated by the Chinese authorities. According to our
present understanding, certain boundaries are to be laid
down, beyond which no foreigners are to pass. But
there will be many difficulties in the way of preventing
the violation of these regulations. It is possible that
in some instances the people themselves may induce
foreigners to transgress these boundaries ; in other
cases, it may be done from mere motives of curiosity ;
and possibly in other instances from a sort of reckless
feeling that the Chinese ought to be taught better, and
be made to adopt European customs.
These matters, trifling in themselves in the first in
stance, may ultimately lead to most serious difficulties,
arrest of Europeans by Chinese officers, quarrels with
the natives, and even bloodshed. Already something
of this kind has occurred, and the interference of Sir
Henry Pottinger has been called for. A little pamphlet
has even been published at Macao, called a “ Narrative
of a recent visit to the Chief City of the department of
Changchow , in the Province of Fokien . ” In this case
the aggressors were not Englishmen , but Americans,
and they forced their way into the country, in opposi
tion to the wishes and orders of the local authorities,
who pointed out to them that their doing so was con
trary to the provisions of the treaty. It is evident that
they passed for Englishmen, and were thought to be so
VOL . II . H
1
98 POLICY OF ENGLAND .
by the authorities. But they even went further than
the mere violation of the treaty, and the opposition
offered to the officers, for they actually had the indiscre
tion and presumption to attempt to explain away the
stipulations of the treaty, in a way that could not fail
to awaken the alarm and mistrust of the Chinese govern
ment, and kindle the indignation of every man who is
interested in maintaining satisfactory relations with a
government who, up to this moment, have scrupulously
adhered to their engagements since the peace of Nankin ..
Sir Henry Pottinger thought it incumbent on him to
advise the viceroy and lieutenant-governor of Canton , that
these individuals were not Englishmen, and to express
his hope that in future the local mandarins would seize
and confine all those who might commit the smallest in
fraction of the treaty, (if British subjects) and send
them to the nearest English consular officer, to be dealt
with as might be found necessary, in order to enforce
implicit obedience.
The justice of this will be self -evident ; but it is also
to be remembered that English authority can only be
exercised over British subjects, and that, as all Euro
pean nations are to have access to the five ports if
desired, many difficulties may arise which are beyond
their control. But it is evidently our first duty, not
only rigidly to adhere to the provisions of the treaty
ourselves, but to do all in our power to strengthen the
government of China, and to uphold its authority in
the eyes of all foreign nations, as well as of its own
people.
The last point to which I think it necessary to allude
POLICY OF ENGLAND . 99
is the mutual surrender of criminals, so that English
offenders who may take refuge in China may be given
up to our consular officers by the Chinese authorities,
and Chinese offenders who may take refuge at Hong
Kong, or on board our ships, may be given up to the
Chinese officers. This stipulation has already been
acted upon at Hong Kong, where a party of pirates
who were chased ashore by the Chinese government
cruisers were instantly seized by the police, and handed
over to the proper Chinese officers.
In fact, the more we reflect upon the position in
which we now stand in presence of the Chinese govern
ment, and in the actual possession of an island upon its
frontiers, the more we must become impressed with the
vast responsibility which attaches to all our proceed
ings, and the great necessity which exists for the utmost
caution, prudence, judgment, and firmness, on the part
of every public officer employed in our service in that
country . Little more need be said at present respecting
Hong Kong, the future history of which must be preg
nant with matter of yearly increasing interest.
I have reserved all mention of the terrific storms to
which the island is occasionally exposed during the
summer season . Our squadron, after its return from
Canton, was exposed to the full fury of one of these
hurricanes, while it lay in the harbour of Hong Kong,
previously to our advance upon Amoy. The Chinese,
although ignorant of the use of the barometer, acquire
from experience a tolerably accurate knowledge of the in
dications which determine the approach of these dreaded
typhoons.
H 2
100 TYPHOONS.
Unfortunately, Victoria Bay lies fully exposed to the
whole fury ofthe tempest from its beginning to its end ;
there is no shelter whatever on that side of the island .
It is aa curious and novel sight to watch the preparations
which the Chinese make for the approaching storm ; the
mixture of superstitious observance and prudent precau
tion which they adopt, either in the hope of averting the
threatening tempest, or of securing themselves against
its immediate effects. The sultry, oppressive feeling of
the atmosphere, the deep black clouds , and other indi
cations, warn them to be prepared ; and, from the noise
and excitement which soon take place among the Chi
nese, one would rather imagine they were celebrating
some festival of rejoicing, than deprecating the fury of
the gods. Many of their houses, on these occasions, are
decorated with lanterns stuck upon long poles twenty
or thirty feet high, huge grotesque-looking figures, and
various devices . The beating of gongs, the firing of
crackers, and explosion of little bamboo petards, from
one end of the town to the other, and in all the boats
along the shore, create such a din and confusion, that a
stranger cannot help feeling that there must be danger
at hand, of some kind or other, besides that of a storm.
It is also a curious sight to watch the hundreds of
boats and junks getting under weigh at the same moment,
all eager to get across to the opposite shore, under shel
ter of the mainland, as fast as possible, knowing full
well that they would be certainly stranded if they re
mained on the Hong Kong side. In the high stern of
every junk stands a man , who perseveringly beats a large
suspended gong with his utmost strength , while the rest
TYPHOONS. 101
of the crew appear quite as intent upon firing off crack
ers as upon the management of their boat. By this
means they hope to awaken their tutelary god, and to
induce him to listen to their prayers for succour. The
greater part of them take refuge in a bay directly oppo
site Victoria, from which it is about four miles distant,
under the lee of the mountains on that side.
Frequently all the threatening appearances which call
forth these preparations pass off without producing a
typhoon. The flashes of lightning are fearfully quick
and brilliant; the peals of thunder are almost deafening ;
the huge black clouds hang gloomily over the mountains,
or are banded across from one side to the other, pouring
their waters in torrents upon the basin between them .
In this way the storm at length subsides, and the horrors
of a typhoon are averted.
The actual typhoon is of a very different description ;
in fact, it differs in no respect from the worst hurricanes
which visit the Mauritius or the West Indies. Hong
Kong was visited in this way on the 21st and 26th July,
1841, and a more severe typhoon than that which took
place on the first of those days is perhaps never expe
rienced. The theory of these circular storms has been
well laid down by Colonel Reid and others ; so that in
the present day a vessel caught in them at sea would be
much less exposed to danger than formerly , provided
her captain had made himself master of the well -con
firmed theories which have been propounded upon the
subject. The sphere of their operation is very limited,
neither do they occur every year, but seldom oftener
than every three or four years.
102 EXTRAORDINARY TYPHOON .
At Hong Kong various ominous appearances were the
forerunner of the storm on the occasion alluded to . For
some days previously, large black masses of clouds
appeared to settle upon the hills on either side ; the atmo
sphere was extremely sultry and oppressive ; the most
vivid lightning shot incessantly along the dense, threat
ening clouds, and looked the more brilliant, because the
phenomena were always most remarkable at night, while
during the day the threatening appearances were mode
rated considerably, and sometimes almost entirely dis
appeared . The vibrations of the mercury in the baro
meter were constant and rapid ; and, although it occa
sionally rose, still the improvement was only temporary,
and upon the average it continued to fall.
A typhoon
was therefore confidently predicted, and the more so,
because none had occurred for several years.
The Chinese on this occasion made every preparation
in their power ; but that comprised very little except
the everlasting firing of crackers and beating of gongs ;
although they endeavoured also to get shelter for their
boats in the best way they could. Our own ships pre
pared for the coming danger as well as circumstances
permitted, every thing being made as snug as possible.
But the whole barbour was at this time crowded with
transports, store -ships, and merchant- ships, in addition
to our men -of-war and steamers ; indeed, so close were
they anchored together, that in many cases there was
not even room to veer cable. It was evident to all, that
if the expected typhoon should burst upon them , the
most serious disasters would inevitably take place.
It was not without many misgivings and forebodings
EXTRAORDINARY TYPHOON . 103
that, in the midst of all the preparations for the storm ,
and when there was every indication of its immediate
outbreak, a small schooner was observed to get under
weigh, and stand out of the harbour towards Macao ; she
had treasure on board, and one or two passengers. Alas !
she was never afterwards heard of ; not a vestige of her
was ever discovered ; she must have foundered at sea,at
the very commencement of the storm .
During the night of the 20th, the weather was tole
rably calm , but ominously sultry ; towards daylight on
the 21st it became squally, with heavy rain , and a good
deal of swell was now getting up in the harbour. The
barometer continued gradually to fall, and the squalls
became heavier. The typhoon could no longer be
doubted ; and, as it was desirable to move the Nemesis
as much to windward of the other ships as possible, steam
was got up quickly, and with some difficulty she was
moved to a good berth on the opposite side, under shel
ter of the high land above Cowloon . Topmasts were
lowered, and every thing made snug, and she was brought
up with both bowers, open hawse, to the N. E., and
veered to a whole cable on each .
Between seven and eight o'clock in the morning, the
wind was blowing very hard from the northward, or
directly upon the shore of Hong Kong, and continued
to increase in heavy squalls hour after hour. Ships
were already beginning to drive, and the work of destruc
tion had commenced on every side ; the Chinese junks
and boats were blown about in all directions, and one of
them was seen to founder with all hands on board . The
fine basin of Hong Kong was gradually covered with scat
104 EXTRAORDINARY TYPHOON .
tered wrecks of the war of elements ; planks, spars, broken
boats, and human beings, clinging hopelessly for succour
to every treacherous log, were tossed about on every
side ; the wind howled and tore every thing away before
it, literally sweeping the face of the waters.
On shore, the hospital was one of the first buildings
blown down upon the heads of the unfortunate inmates,
wounding many, and aggravating the sufferings of all ;
yet only one man, a helpless idiot, was killed . No ex
ertion was spared to bring assistance to the unfortunate
sick, and to drag them forth from the scene of their
misfortunes. But, alas ! in every quarter aid was neces
sary ; the buildings being merely of temporary construc
tion, most of them partly built of bamboo, barracks and
all came tumbling down like children's card-houses.
From half- past ten until two the hurricane was at its
highest, the barometer at this time having descended to
nearly 28°, 50 ', according to some, but on board the
Nemesis it was never lower than 28°, 89 '. The air was
filled with spray and salt, so that it was impossible to
see any thing that was not almost close at hand ; the
wind roared and howled fearfully, so that it was impos
sible to hear a word that was said . Ships were now
drifting foul of each other in all directions ; masts were
being cut away ; and, from the strength of the wind
forcing the sea high upon the shore, several ships were
driven high and dry.
The native Chinese were all distracted , imploring their
gods in vain for help. Such an awful scene of destruc
tion and ruin is rarely witnessed ; and almost every one
was so busy in thinking of his own safety, as to be una
EXTRAORDINARY TYPHOON . 105
ble to render assistance to any one else. Hundreds of
Chinese were drowned, and occasionally aa whole family,
children and all, floated past the ships, clinging, in
apparent apathy (perhaps under the influence of opium ),
to the last remnants of their shattered boats, which soon
tumbled to pieces, and left them to their fate.
During the height of the typhoon, the engines of the
Nemesis were kept going at half-speed, and she rode
through it very easy, without suffering any damage.
But even those few vessels which did not drive were in
constant danger of being run foul of by others which
did ; in fact, crowded as the bay was with shipping, it
was a matter of wonder that even more serious damage
was not done than actually did occur. The heaviest
part of the typhoon appears certainly to have passed
directly over Hong Kong, for even at Macao, which is
only thirty- five miles distant, it was much less severely
felt, and, moreover, there was a difference of nearly four
hours in the time of its occurrence ; nevertheless, beyond
Hong Kong the typhoon was also very severely felt, and
several ships were in the greatest danger.
It is a remarkable fact, that both our Plenipotentiaries,
Captain Elliot and Sir Gordon Bremer, (who has recently
returned) were wrecked on this occasion, and were only
saved , as it were, by a miracle. They were on their way
to Hong Kong, in Captain Elliot's cutter, the Louisa,
when the typhoon, already commencing, compelled them
to anchor in not a very favourable berth, under one of
the numerous islands at the mouth of the Canton river.
Every measure was resorted to which good seamanship
could suggest, to give any chance of safety to the little
106 WRECK OF THE
vessel, but all in vain. She soon drove - her spars and
masts were carried away— a heavy , tumbling sea broke
over her, washing every thing overboard—the destruc
tion of the vessel, and the loss of every one on board ,
seemed to be inevitable. Fragments of the numerous
wrecks along the coast were floating past them every
moment. Having been driven from the island under
which they first took shelter, they were carried before
the wind for the distance of from two to three miles,
expecting every moment to be swallowed up ; the com
mander had been already washed overboard. At length
they caught sight of land right ahead, with a heavy surf
breaking on it, apparently almost close to them. The
suspense at this moment was intense and awful. If the
vessel touched the surf, they would be launched into
eternity in a moment. But, providentially, as if they
were specially ordained to be reserved for aa better fate,
the little cutter cleared the breakers, almost within
reach of their spray. The anchor was now let go, but
could not hold the little craft, so heavily did the sea
break over her ; and at length she was driven full upon
the shore, where she instantly bilged and filled. Some
people now jumped overboard, others crawled on to the
nearest rocks, but at length all hands got safely on
shore, with the assistance of a rope, which one of the
boys who had succeeded in swimming ashore made fast
to one of the rocks. Thus, twenty -three human beings
were miraculously saved from what appeared to be cer
tain and inevitable destruction, and “ from perils which
men doubtless sometimes witness, but seldom live to
recount ; and there was not a man amongst us, says one
TWO PLENIPOTENTIARIES. 107
who was present, who ( thoughtless though sailors be)
did not offer a fervent prayer of thanksgiving to his
God .”
Besides the Plenipotentiaries, Lord Amelius Beau
clerk and one or two other gentlemen were partakers of
these disasters. There is little doubt that they all owed
their preservation, under Providence, to the admirable
seamanship and cool presence of mind of Captain Elliot
himself, who took command of the little vessel during
the most trying period, and whose accurate knowledge
of the coast was of essential service.
Their troubles, however, were not yet at an end.
They managed to save very little provisions or clothing
from the wreck ; and the only place they could discover,
in which they could shelter themselves for the night, was
a large fissure in the side of a precipice, open at the top,
with a small mountain -stream running through the cen
tre of it. There they anxiously awaited the dawn of
morning, in a sitting posture ( for they could not lie
down) , and drenched to the skin . Soon after daylight
they discovered two Chinamen , who came down to pil
lage the wreck ; and several dead bodies of Chinamen
were found cast up upon the shore. After some hesita
tion and difficulty, a bargain was at length made to con
vey Captain Elliot, for one thousand dollars, to Macao,
in a fishing -boat; but, shortly afterwards, another party
of Chinese fishermen , coming up from a neighbouring
village, commenced robbing all the shipwrecked people,
stripping them of their clothes, and, among other things,
getting possession of a star of the Hanoverian Guelphic
Order. In a short time, the demand for conveying Cap
108 PERILS OF THE PLENIPOTENTIARIES .
tain Elliot to Macao, as soon as the weather would per
mit, was raised to two thousand dollars, which was
agreed to .
Yet difficulties seemed to multiply hourly ; for, at
this juncture, some of the Chinese, having found two or
three bodies of their countrymen lashed to spars, and
dreadfully lacerated by being dashed against the rocks
until they were lifeless, took it for granted that this had
been done purposely by Captain Elliot and his party,
and for some time their threatening gestures and angry
looks of retaliation seemed to portend bloodshed. This
was, however, at length averted ; and ultimately, after
agreeing to pay upwards of three thousand dollars,
Captain Elliot, Sir Gordon Bremer, and two other per
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