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November 18, 1899.]
wraoked houses around, the attempt to fire it having entirely failed. Several of the inhabit | ants were killed in the fight, and the brigands got off with a quantity of loot. The incident affords a striking commentary on the manner in which property is protected in the Central Kingdom, and shows that the security afforded by city walls is, in China at any rate, still a reality.
We soon lost sight of Wuohow, the river taking some sharp bands between high hills. The country is well wooded, and in the valleys, which were occasionally revealed between the bills, cultivation of sweet potatoes, yams, sugar- cane, and various crops is carried oo. But of towns or large villages no trace was visible, and peasant life was represented by a few men and women bere and there cultivating the al- luvial soil left exposed on the banks by the fall of the stream or herding buffaloes. One or two small steam-launches were passed towing boats, and some passage boats were seen, but when about ten miles up stream traffic seemed scanty. There is, however, a good deal of traffio with Kweilin, the capital of the province, though the amount could no doubt be enormously increased by the substitution of very light draft stern wheel steamers for the native boats. Many small herds of water buffaloes were passed, some of which were encountered swimming across the river. The calves, terrified by the whistle, took refuge among the cows, who obviously support ed them in the water.
We landed at Ang-how by the aid of a native boat which put off in response to our hail, malgré the dour looks of the man apparently in charge, and whose surly and sullen coun- tenance nothing could lighten up, including the silver bestowed as a cumshaw. After a walk of about a mile on the high banks, from which a view of tolerably extensive tracts of cul. tivated country was obtainable, and making a detour to avoid a herd of sniffing and hostile buffaloes, we rejoined the launch, weighed anchor and started to return to Wa obow, We touched the bottom once on the way down, but got off again without much difficulty. and arrived at Wuchow about 7 p.m., finding some little difficulty in threading a passage through the small craft at the mouth
of the Fu-ho.
I was informed that badgers were very pleuti ful round Wuchow, and were hunted by the natives, who eat them. The armadillo is also common in the country up the Fa-ho. Of tigers I saw nothing and heard little. They do not appear to be plentiful. Birds seemed scarce, but I saw one or two varieties that were new to
me.
EARTHQUAKE AND CHANGE OF WEATHER.
The next morning dawned dull, cold, and wet, and on consulting the thermometer I found it had dropped from 86 deg. Fahr. on the previous afternoon to Gi deg. f course we all got into warmer clothing, and a light dustcoat I had taken proved acceptable, At breakfast we learned that a slight bat distinct shock of earthquake had been felt ashore about 4 a.m. but no one observed it on board the steamer. I had arranged to go ashore and have another ramble through the city after break- fast in search of adventure or curios, but the rain came on so smartly that I abandoned the intention, the inducement to face the sleet and mud not being sufficient.
THE RETURN JOURNEY. We lifted anchor at 2.30 p.m., steamed noross the river to the kerosene anchorage, and picked up the parasite, which was taken in tow, and Istarted on the return voyage with a light cargo and few passengers. It was still raining, but the skies looked like clearing, a promise that was fufilled some two hours later. At 4 p.m, we passed Fong Chnen, a small walled city on the left bank, lying among lovely scenery, but having no commercial importance. About 5.15 p.m. we were opposite Dosing, a very cousider able town on the right baak, at which until re- cently the steamers were wont to call for pass. en era. This is a rather important centre of trade; there is a large lekin establishment there, and small native craft line the banks.
A quarter of an hour later we were passing the famons rock known as the Monk's Head, called by the Chinese Fa Paw. This great
CHINA OVERLAND TRADE REPORT.
landmark rises 1,410 feet from the river bed, but at first sight, approaching it from Wuchow, it appears much lower. The rook seen from that point assumes the appearance of a gigantio crouched figure, the head bent forward overlooking the surrounding country. When abreast of the rook, however, its | proportions are much more imposing, sud as you leave it in the rear it presents the aspect of B tall shaven bonze with a spectral looking face standing at fall height gazing solemnly over valley and river. It is certainly a very striking looking mountain, and would not be easily sealed.
The twilight was deepening into dusk when we approached the city of Tak-hing. This place is approached through a short gorge, and stands on a plain on the left bank of the river going down. It is encircled by a wall, but it was too dark to see much of it beyond the houses on the bank, partly screened by thick clumps of trees, and a nine-storied pagoda perobed on a low hill at one end of the city. The plain is highly cultivated, and Takhing ought to be worth call ing at. It is a way port, bat few passengers are picked up there. The Cookscomb Rock, a curi- ons jagged ridge, one of the features of the river, was passed in the dark.
After dinner it was clear and bright, and when the moon got up
had
some beautiful revelations of
scenery BE We swept down the river to Shiahing, some sixty miles distant from Takhing, and where it was intended to anchor on arrival. I turned
we
in about 10 p.m., and slept soundly until wakened by the noises attendant on arrival at Shiahing about 3 a.m.
SHIUHING CITY.
dawn reminded me of the arrangement made A tap at the cabin door some time before the previous evening to visit the Marble Rooks and the Caverns before breakfast, so I tumbled into my togs with all speed, joined my fellow passengers on deck, and after a hurried snack we got into a boat and pulled ashore at the central landing place of Shinhing, mounted the long flight of out granite steps laid with great neatness, and crossing a piece of unoccupied land plunged into the oity.
The inhabitants were but just turning out and the shopkeepers were opening their cases and displaying their manifold wares. Some, less energetic, had not taken down their shutters; but the purveyors of food of all kinds were all on the alert and the day's supplies of fish; flesh, fowl, vegetables and fruits were all од view, and business had already commenced. Speaking of fish I may here remark that we had a kind of fresh water sole, purchased here, for breakfast, which was most delicious. It is like the ordinary sole, but smaller, the flesh very white and firm and delicate.
doubt this is due to its former position as capital of Shinhing is an unusually well built city. No
the province of Kwangtung. Vestiges of departed importance still cling to it in the breadth, clean- liness, and style of its main streets, the excel- lence of its pavements, and its comparative free- dom from the odours which usually assail the pedestrian's nostrils in Chinese cities. It an- doubtedly ranks high in this respect, and is certainly beyond all comparison the oleanest and least unsavoury town I have seen in the Chinese Empire. Some of the shops are hand- some and well supplied; ordinary goods of all descriptions, whether native er foreign, may be purchased in them; but I failed to discover any "cario" shops. The only things peculiar to Shiahing are the articles (mostly cups and san- cers and images of Buddha or other gods) made out of the local marble, which can be bought here at moderate prices. Pewter-ware is also made in considerable variety in several shops in the outskirts.
I had no time to visit any of the public buildings, but these are extensive, though some are in a rather ruinous condition, nor did we investigate any temples within the walls, for time pressed. Our programme was cut out, the Marble Books to be visited, and so on we went straight through the city, passing under three lofty arched gateways, the iron-studded gates of which are always closed at dusk every day with, I fancy, excellent reason. The City would otherwise be raided by the banditti who infest the distriot, but of whom we saw
417
nothing. We paused to ran up a flight of steps leading on to the walls, which I noted were in an excellent state of preservation, and which I should have liked much to have perambulated, as I could see the views of the surrounding sountry from them would be very interesting. In Shinbing there were no hostile wonks, no anfriendly canaille to hang on our rear, and in- dulge in observations of a personal and disgusting nature; the people were perfectly oivil and well behaved on both occasions, and utterly unlike the rowdy inhabitants of the City of Rams.
THE MARBLE ROCKS AND CAVERNS.
Outside the gates we found the chairs we had engaged awaiting us, but as the sir was kosn and the sun had not yet mounted to the heavens, I preferred to stretch my legs. Our path lay for some distance among gardens and lily ponds until we reached a new and cheerful looking temple, built in the usual style, but furnished with rather superior decorations. The approach to this is guarded by a gate in a very solid wall, no doubt closed at night. Passing through this we emerged on the open plain, soross which the path, on a slightly raised causeway, pursues its devious way. It is but a narrow track about two feet in width, formed by two alabs of granite laid lengthwise, and this pre- sently narrows to a single slab about a foot wide. Before us, soross the plain, rose the famous Rocks, which consist of groups, or, in come instances, isolated precipitous hills, par- plish black in colour, which stand out very bold-
against the background of bare red monn- tains beyond. The distance to be traversed was about three miles, and it was ne cessary to losk to our feet, as the granite slabe were very is unquestionably like all Chinese country roads, slippery and none too evenly laid. The highwys a work of simple utility: it is contrived to serve
folds, then mostly under water, and as
double purpose; that of boundary to the
means of communication. The limited nature of the accommodation rendered it necessary to supply, here and there, a wider additional stone, at which points it is possible to pass other wayfarers without one party being inadvertently landed in the mud or water.
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point is reached where the track divides, but it In due course we had walked quickly—a
it to take. Only one large shallow lake-like was an easy matter to determine which arm of
feld intervened between us and the nearest group of Rooks. The steep sides of these were now seen to be dotted here and there with trees. while the bases of some were thickly dotted with vegetation. Far up the precipitous sides of the two nearest hills were perched picture- aque temples or monasteries, to which at first sight there appeared no means of access.
At the foot of the nearest hill thus honoured stands an ancient Buddhist temple of consider. able dimensions, to which our guide conducted us. This temple, I was told, was erected during the Ming dynasty, and it bears unmistakeable signs of antiquity both in its structure and in the idols it enshrines. It is built mainly of the blue brick of the country, but the bases of the great wooden pillars supporting the roofs are age and exposure. The temple consists of three of white marble, discoloured and dulled by courts, one above the other, the inner one being reached by a double flight of stops. In the first or outer court there is a most interesting group of josses, consisting of three huge gilt Buddhas, plasid and stately, and ten iron figures, painted in originally bright colours, now much faded. These statuos, ranged five on each side of the Buddhas, are no doubt representatives of sages or notable personages in the Buddhist Pantheon. In the second court were enshrined three really fine bronse Buddhas about ten feet in height," well cast, and in good preservation. A handsome thongh not large bronse bell with asweet tone hung in this court. Ascending to the inner and highest court, the holy of holies, we found another striking group of deities and warriors. In the centre was a grave, calm. faced figure of Buddha, flanked on either side by a pair of bronse effigies evidently representing two of his disciples with shaven crowns. On the right and left of these meok looking bonsss, were two truculent of the Ming period arrayed in armour, endowed with most expressive features much vigour of gesturs.” One of them
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