1950-09-02 — Page 8

BACK TO NORMAL

WITH A FINE ARRAY OF NEW GOODS FROM THE UNITED KINGDOM. STOP AND STUDY THE WINDOWS AS YOU PASS

MACKINTOSH'S

13, CHATER ROAD.

BEFORE YOU BUY A NEW OR OLD SEWING MACHINE

COME AND TRY OURS

STANDARD SEWING MACHINE CO.

29, Hennessy Road, Hongkong.

Tel. No. 33771

A.B.C. SEWING MACHINE CO.

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SEWING MACHINES

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INSTALMENTS

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HEN HONGKONGATELEGRAPH, SATURDAY SEPTEMBER

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Paris-London clash over...

.

The hair length issue

2

By Eileen Ascroft

ARIS mannequins at tho Putumn isshion shows

word their hair longer, soft- ly waved, with curla or chigions at the nape of the neck. But London' opinions › aro divided.

Views of leading London hairdressers leave the cus tomer to take her cholec of long or short:

French: "Shorter styles will stay, but with a cofter line at the nape of the neck and deeper vravet.**

Steiner! "Hair will be semi. long and essentially feminine with

rolls assymetrical side und plenty of nape interest. The Duck's Tall style will help over the growing age and added chignons will be worn for even- ing. New shade ta Lavender Blonde."

Raymond; "Short and even shorter. Time is not ripe for longer styles. The present Parks hairdressings have been intro- duced by the dressmakera not by the hair styllsts. Now style li the Poodle."

Yaaro: "Slightly longer (11⁄2in at the nape) but brushed up all round the head with no straigh! copped ends."

Antoine; Still short (3ln. to Sin. al the morl), with hair zwept back and tallored neck- line. New colours are Smoke- Grey for blondes and Honey for the very young. Blonde streeks are finished, but blande lips are 1.W."

....AND THE HATS

DISE and shine is the slogan of Kthe autuinn hats. Higher crowns are indicated. Soft, shining fabrics. such as Velvet and peach bloomt velour, will be popular.

The Postillon hat will be a

$ 75. per month jaunty necompaniment to the

with 5 years guarantco

Hand Portable

$199.

Plain Table Treadle

$220.

$ 85.

Cabinet Treadle

$260.

$ 95.

Electric Portable

$279.

Electric Cabinet

$330.

$100. $120. "

•

17

+

++

ALSO MACHINES FOR HIRE $20 PER MONTH ONLY,

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120 Marina Houce,

Letterheads

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Business...

Fine Quality Printing

and Design

SOUTH. CHINA MORNING POST

TEL' 266R

first cold wenther suits, with its curled brim and wide, buckled band. The model sketched is in tongerella candy Boss, com- bined with black.

Another high-crowned model has a pointed top and looks like a miniature dunce's cap. Tala style was popular in Paris, too, often trimmed with a band of fur.

Small, head-hugging caps and berets have a distinct forward movement, but the effect of held is still there in high-

flying plumes and ornaments,

BLACK IS TOP

TTRACTIVE style for more

dressy occasions in the sce Now brim.

wile nt the sides. almost non-existent nt front and back.

Black is No.

i favourite.

same

-the recent Paris

No two designers have the

line in collections-however, you máy term it

The

Elusive

'New' Line

Modest

gesture

How the French trend is being Interpreted in London is Ulustrated by this elegant slender black dress with narrow skirt. Other distinctive fea- tures are ite giant horseshoe collar, roses at the waist and a vivid emerald

green silk modesty vest,

T

By JOAN ERSKINE

LONDON,

HERE are times, when watching the Paris collections, that one is conscious of a definite uniformity - a theme running through them all. This is when Paris is at her designing best. Lately, however, it has become increasingly difficult to find any sort of co- ordination in the styles. No two designers have the same lino.

Dior's much publicised ret urn to a modified version of his original "New Look," was only to be expected. Primarily. Christian Dior is a showman. Having thoroughly exploited the straight elegant boyish look, and the low-waisted, chemise-topped, flapper dresses, he was left little alternative but to re-introduce minute waists and admit that women do have hips. This way, his reputation for always pro-- ducing something "different" was preserved.

An 'Oblique' Bias

His new line is called "Oblique" and is achieved by tucks, folds, drap- the redlogote, shows it In ing. buttons, and bina treatment. He it as revived every length, but with emphasis on the new 7/0 and 3/4 lengths. There are quantities of fur-lined straight topcoats, with deep collars and shoulder capes.

On some coats the stiffened collars reach the ears.

Londen and Parla dress Many milarities can be discovered between

leng barques below houses this season Dior's new suits, with extremely fitted waists, are difficult to wear. Charles Creed in London showed the same

both

of concentrated on cascades line. Jacques Fath and Pierre Balmain

They fullness at the back of glove-Atung dresses.

are far more dramalle than what Victor Silebel In London en is his "Exit Dresses, but they both have the same backward flore,

Playing With Revers

Jacques Fath, too, plays with revers, and sometimes has two on one Amics ulready en in Hardy side, and three on the other. This we had collection In Savile Row, where he showed also jackets with stimly curved-out hips, a line over which Paris is again becoming enthusiastic

The hemline appears to be une hanged, and varles little from house to house. Although many skirts are fuller than of late, they are usually alim fitting from Mlp to knee, with fullness coming from godets and groups of pleats.

'Nut In Husky Shell'

The "e dress" has definitely come into its own, outling sults from the place of honour they have occupied for so long. Last year, when slender dresses were worn beneath enormous coats the couture named the trend "the precious nut in the husky shell." This slim line is, in the main, continued,

11 in formaken only for afternoon and evening, in n short bell-crinoline of stiffened skirt which is achieved by fine pie- frill pleating over layers of

chiffon over white. Embroidered underskirt. Nowest colouring is black satin over pleated tuile, and cloud-grey velvet over shaded tulle, made strapless dresses reaching just to the ankle. But for full evening wear, Dior was inspired by the French Renaissance, and showed lavishly jewelled em- 'broidered gowns. High quality French silk brocades, sequin embroidery in stylised Persian and, Byzantine designs, cluth of gold, pearly satin, and mink trimming, all lent a touch of glamour.

Russian Flavour

two

JACQUES FATH launched the pleated coat, in a light blaque woollen. He was inspired by the ballet, Over sulta he showed three-quarter capes, court life and folklore of old Russia and showed long evening dresses in place of the shorter ankle-length styles. Although colours were artistically and on his one dramatic Kown carefully blended in most cases, he produced "Pillar" line, in scarlet satin with a giant bow at the low-cut top, worn with Black was first favourite, with white a deep blue wide stole banded in mink.

made many romantic a close second. Rhinestone and jewel led shaded net dresses.

•And Alwyn's 'Fan Line' Clearly

A Frock That

Grows With Small Fry

LAMOUR

girls, aged three can grow with- groaning in too-fight

to seven,

out dresses.

A new frock

called "Gro-

Other shades are honey belge, muted tangerine, sienna, vine-

Tall," Introduced in New yard purples, moke and sun-York, is guaranteed to expand faded greens, often with black.

combined

Cocktail CAIS are pay and romantic, In iridescent colours, gleaming gold or silver or shiny binck or white, with spangled veils and sequin trimmings.

THE SKIFF LINE

a

four inches in all directions→ with little work for Mama.

Designer Abe Pressman demonstrated

that

the dress expands lengthwise by virtue of on adjustable waistline, and four-inch hem. The bell but- tons to the waist in front, tes in bow in back. When the child rows and her waistline lowers, the buttons may simply be moved downward.

Concented

the

DAUS launches the "Skift" Hoe. In narrow toques with

fullnesses in sharply profiled peaks pointing form of deep box picats at the over the forehead, It is a flatter-se enable a girl's girth to ing style to wear: I predict widen two years' worth. with- will be widely copied in Landan, out busting a scom,

Velvet and fur are leading "Gro-Talls"! are of cotton auium choices, ·Trimmed with brondeloth, in all the cholcest bewitching vells or Jaunty stown-up patterns. feathers.

BEST COMPANY

CHORTEST and nleest view on

Filmland fashion Пена is the starling vest-topped even-

Warners' new film, Strikes Twice,"

the holiday problem "Should Ing gown to be worn by Ruth Husbanda and Wives Have

Roman in

Separate Holidays?" comes from "Lightning

a husband, Mr Jack Lawrie of

Oakdale Avenue, Kenton, who Like a regular gent's vest it

writes:

after 20 years I still find the best company is my wife,"

In

nor shoulders, say certainly 'No,' as has no sleeves

and furthermore, it's cut such a way, both front and back, that it outplunges those Imous plunging necklines,

-(London Express Service)

NOW, HIGHLIGHTS ON THE INSTEP

Accent on the unkles comes with thase sham silk stockings. The flower-design ornamentų, aru embroidered with silver-cut stosi bordi. Landen særesy Berufen.

1

PIERRE BALMAIN, who created a minor sensation ture this senson of trousers. They were designed for

Inat year by showing cycling bloomers, made a tea

town wear, for home longing and for sport, and were made in jeray, satin and fur. The most striking pair were in leopard under a black silk jersey dress. Others, in gold lame, appeared from beneath a gold lame cont. There was a distinctly Eastern flavour in this collection, where we saw fur-topped silk turbans, and tiny shoulders and sleeves.

A Woman's Second Skin

Schiaparelli made her best collection for years, announcing that dresses must be made like "a woman's second skin with shoulders smoothed, sleeves close, bust emphasised and the skirt close cut," Slimnets was broken by diagonal movements of front tunics, sphal tunics or low flouncings.

The gayest, wittiest, most flirtatious collection in Paris was shown by Alwynn, twenty-five year olet part-Scot, part- Frenchman. He calls his line the "Fan Line," for the fan malif occurs again and again. In conts, which are vast, fan pleating springs from the back yoke. Sult skirts widen out fan-ike to give walking room. A fan movement begins from below the hips on day dresses; and from below the knees on evening gowns, He showed several very effective ensembles in dazzling white cloth, avidly trimmed with white fox. His draping is the finest seen yet, and he uses mink trimming extensively. Mhik bands, bows, and even mink flowers appenr, The main colour theme was all thades of purple, from palest. İllac to deeper Farma. Violet clusters forming the gounilets on mauve gloves were particularly beautiful.

Fortunately for those of us who have neither the money nor the Inclination to completely switch our wardrobes, there, is a diversity of styles. In London the sleekly tailored suit, in- finitely wearable, always right, takes precedence. In Paris, lhe slim dress topped by a length redingote, is the thing. Illustrated am two dresses which show how London Interpreld the French trend

'Bubble'

Jewellery

Accessories were as charming as over, and hairdressing is once again becoming an art, now that the very short cut has and its day. We liked the pockets, slit to carry a boutonniers of Hilies of the valley; cocktali gloves with cuffs of roses; "bubble" jewellery (plastle bubbles filled with coloured water, creme de menthe or burgundy); and reversible umbrellos trimmed with fur.

And what about wearing a huge rhinestone brooch ony where except on a salt lapel? Dior plus them on hats, cuffs, gloves, and even on the hair.

enticing

-and here is a tailored black wool dress with

wide. transparent Medicl frill in black crystal-pécated not, and A narrow buttoned skirt. (by Dorville).

Miss Dietrich's disposition amazes Parisians

Burbank, Califomia. Mar- With typical Independenes, with Dior, and that's where gone up since she wore them lene Dietrich did an amartag La Dietrich decided that for the amazing thing carne B. in Warner Bros.' "Stago thing-for a girl with her tem- her wardrobe in the picture, They spent two full weeks Fright. Infurers claim tha në- perament-shortly before she nothing would do but Bomb working together and never tress' collection, consisting of a Legan her starring role with gowns designed by herself, and bad more than two quarrels on 04-diamond necklace, a

brace Wyman In Warner put together by no less than any single

day!

of twenty diamonds, several Dior's carplosive tempera- diamond solitaire rings and a: Fright" which wad celebtuted Christina Dior.

is almost brooch of diamonds and rubies, Amb in the British metropo- So Marlene promptly took as famous as Marlene's,

increased in value es a result Is by the famous Alfred Hitch- her glamorousTM well to the The insurance premiung or of being advertland, so to spend, cock.

French capital to collaborate Mazlene Dietrich jewels have In the film.

Jane Bros. "Stage

mystery-melodrama, this artistle "handavor. Pansy merit by the way,