1950-05-13 — Page 6

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CALIFORNIA

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

ONE PICTURE SAYS WHAT PARIS HAS

From the show to the sunshine and shadow of the Embankment.-Picture by John French

(But behind the scenes... ah! what temperament!)

- anyone

I wondered

has over what would Paris and London really drew closer.

happen

8

by ANNE EDWARDS

In France-oven a little bit of

together, I can tell them. France In a forge slice of

It did happen recently when London-it doesn't happen at all the tnost astonshing might in

dress in London these days? One does.

The

We had coffee. Is is ofton Da cold as this in April? It im't. - Wasn't it charming if the Bri- tish to invite Mr Dat was charming of Mr Dior to come. Everyone was charming.

Wo walted two hours. London was the Dior show that like that. Oh no! It happened

like this.

Then the phone rang." SCENE I: The French press mannequins arrived. We made no one saw,

clockwork pre- Behind the

office. Here we must first be a dash for the front hall, bul- the mannequins, have cision of the actual showing introduced to this two women pouf! a riotous story of the impact of cent over to manage the show. disappeared. twenty

voluble French women We were

SCENE 3. Back in the French introduced to the on one of London's most sedale Arst, who said: "For serty yars Press office. The Press officer

1 Inrn bole's

English. No good,"

was distraught. A melancholy Two hours after the invasion retires to the sofa and takes no Drano who flew in that morning

hysterical, further part.

was distraught. He had an of a few excited,

one of the the French,

Next

second appointment with we met the Restlculating

non, non," she sald, manequins, but please don't telephone began to behave like "Non. a French telephone and cut off waving her hands in the faces of mention it. It would be-in- In the middle; the loud-speaker representatives from all the discreet

"No photo- broke for the first time in years: picture agencies.

Where was the rendezvous for publlelty office, of course, where else?

the journalists cereamed at each graphs of the dresses. Mr Dlor this secret affair? Why in the other: and even the man who forbids."

called out the names began Allowed....

waving his hands in the air and shouting. "Non, non, non."

Forbidden.

In London, when you report a dress show, you make an appointment with a mannequin, you take her picture, and you go home.

Downstairs

WO were

In-

At last. Presently the girls arrived, rooms to troduced to a third, who was in forced out of their

their

taken, charge of all the clothes.

pictures wearing a sullen scowl instead of the customary salic.

have

"Photographers?" she sald. "But how delightful. You want

At this point the British P.R.O. pictures Of course, come in,

popped her head round the door, come in."

SCENE 2-The corridor. The "Ca va?" she asked politely. mannequins were last. "Hut, Non," they spat at her furiously.

said the French

Frees "Mal."

Some of the British struggled assured, In Just two mantully to console the French

WRY.

"It is not right," they re marked in a weird sort of French. "Ce n'est pas droit."

The dress to show what yes," the discriminating ellents office "they are on the love. It ts

wearable Rest Ba an any plain black suit but a minutes they will be here. We for this outburst. lot more alluring. Like fifly per have sent a man to bring them cent. of Dior's collection you in this room,"

We waited. We discussed could wear it in the street 10- morrow. The cellar of the dress fashion, Does one wear evening in the pleture is a hoop style,

crisp turn-over

in

white pique with

11

The skirt top. perfectly plain, tube slim, with

.

hemline at the anart

fength. The colour is a

Farls

clear

navy blue, and the material n Poft wool. It's worn by English model, Jean Dawnby, She scorna the usual All touch of white for spring. her accessories are In plain navy blue.

YOUR

-(London Express Service).

SWIMSUIT

Madam-it's tailor-made

By EILEEN ASCROFT ·

SWIM-SUIT couturier is Acomething new to the fashion world. But for difficult figures # tallored-to-measure costume can work wonders.

A lovely collection shown in London recently includen models in black elasticised satin, with wired plunge bra tops and sido buttoning, and strapless models with stockinet tops, built-in bras and solin skirts.

Latest colours are light cerise, brilliant jade green, gold and Hlac. Most costumes have n matching silk jersey shawl with wool-fringed edge to drape round baro- shoulders or protée! the hair from too much cun.

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C. WILLETT CUNNINGTON,

HUS

an authority on English costume paints a word picture of..

The Perfect

Lady

Reviewed by Joan Erskine

"When dressed for the evening the girls nowadays

Scarce an atom of dress on them leave;

Nor blame them; for what is an evening dress But a dress that is suited for Eve?"

the Perfect letter

tradesman of the times de

what

from

C

wrote R wag structure-in Inet, during the Regency Lady. period. for the young

The bold young thing at a

was scribing criticised had Mansion House ball, who ladies thus

reared during heard to remark to her partner, happened when his daughter a great war, and the style "Pray, Sir, do not tread on my dress and tear it, for as you can of the times favoured only see I have nothing on under-

Its nowth " was to become the youthful figure.

been born and

the

ventured to sloop. **for slays gave way with a tremen- dous explosion

charm lay in its revelations. mother of those souls of discre-

tion, the early Victorians

1810, and those Between "forward, fast

frantic and there days" of 1901,

was period dominated by "a being of delicate perceptions', a young lady destined to leave a

the on

Boclał manent mark

per-

The child

dressed typically in the restricting fashion

the Inte.. 10th 'century, Het pals blue dress elaborately fucked and

and the hat pleated,

and glovce form an interral pari "of the ensemble,

I

he

and she fell to C. Willett Cunnington, has traced the three phases of the the ground.. Perfect Lady's remarkable Hought carcer, describla: them as "the had snapped it Ascent, the Summit, and the EN

ladies Decline". She was symbol of young

nt were undaunt- social progress, a consummato

sheed, even in the

actress, and everything

wore bad

ચી meaning. Her cos face of sharp

tume was never

comment-

but insignifiant, "Not content

always Impressive.

It was 'ns

with Excessive artlacial as art could make light-incing, our the mental poise, the physical ladies pad pose mattered; comfort and con- themselves till venlence counted as trifles.

Acme Of Modesty.

like

they appear

bottle

spiders."

AT

photograph An artist's impression of a "THE PERFECT LADY." She is wear- ing a day dress in blue-lavender grosgrain

black trimmed with fringed

velvet: the ไป folds, the tunle draped across

skirt train. The bustled and led back, with a

date? 1870,

Mr

At the same time, bonnels with less exclusive tastes

book contains o Princess Charlotte, "forward, were considered inadequate, and Cunnington's

What wealth of defall on the costumes on nii dogmatical

Fubjects, hatz became the fashion. buckish about horses and full hats they were! Enormous to- of the period. From top to toe,

like wering crowned with some plain chemise

and Immense from outer covering to severely ઘઉં exclamations very

he strips them the cool, brims, were trimmed swearing" symbolised frank audacity of the Regency times a hundred and twenty feet for our benent, revealing scarle! Twenty years of coloured ribbons, feathers, or corsels and striped stockings, knickerbockers and young woman. later, the youthful Queen masses of towers, together with tartan

Victoria represented

of Victorian modesty.

the neme wide streaming ribbon-atrings. skeleton petticoats of wire. The At this alarming spectacle horses Perfect Lady was at her zenith. chlod and ders in the street Her wire petticoat,

The changing outlook soon barked! expressed itself in the fashions. the Classical becoming Gothic. The meet conspicuous change was

the lowering

В

"Vulgar"

Revela-

"cage" crinoline. supported her vast "drawing-room looks like n camp. You see a number of bell tents of different colours,

These

For the younger figure there are two-pleco suits in shantung with pants with draw-string legs which can be pulled up very briefly for sun-bathing.

A glamour costume is made .of chenille velvet, elasticised Into pattern of tiny flowers in a deep ruby red.

beach outfils, with

swim suit, peasant skirt and

blouse

with lop collar, are

gathered fissure

made in many attractive designs such and colour combinations,

as a navy and tan Paisley design and a while waffle pique with Jude green fringe.

Two-piece beach soft in silk shantung with draw-string pants, which can be worn sa briefs for sunbathing,

Colton

charming

Seen at right: a black satin swimsalt with wired plunge bra. top, worn with a matching silk Jersey shawl; and (left) white patterned with a cotton three-plece in bright red,

thips and gulls.

London Express Service)

there not power of represslan Make-up watchword.

her pinnacle.

For

Discreet Sophistication

good

with a

So the female form which, the poles sustaining them op of the waistline to its natural position, twenty years earlier, had been pearing at the summit.

revented, Was are the signs of habitation. Is which caused agonised laments unblushingly from many. "It is sad to be rapidly disappearing. condemned to the ball-dress of tions were no longer the mode, under the Building Act? Sueli

of 1820 At this time the fatal habit the today" exclaimed

eight years the crinolina held woman. "I abhor the long walats, fushions "percolating down the masculine comment. the miserable busks und the scelal scale had become very undisputed away. But by, 1850

taste. whalebone that enrry us back noticeable. Large sleeves are "Feminine Emancipation" was

up" is coming of age. that they are in the air, and it was ultimately NOW in spring, 1950, "make ticated and always in

It begins, of 'course, Gothic now so common to I know not what

The heavy "made-up" look is Another observer at seen on females, of the lower to dash, the Perfect Lady from perlod".

should out and let's hope It stays out foundation for powder.

This powder foundation the oyen forever. It made this time made a remark that and vulgar class". Vulgar was

Her Decline might have been lifted from the operative word—a word that to acquire a pecullar

young look hard, buried many a be a delicately scented liquid of "The was

Mr fashion article of today

How sad it is to dwell upon

a the consistency of rich cream. meaning.

flawless complexion beneath

It made that goes on so smoothly that layce of calzomine and English lady of good taste just Cunnington informs us that "to her decline. She is laughed at, copies only such of the French be deemed vulgar meant a ad - her dresses curiously

many

middle-aged is just a protective veil, trans 0 nice, ****Coscent into the Plt. The fingered by her descendants, but

matron look like a fugitive from parent and subtly flattering. It imparts just enough colour and The skirt began to expand, wrong choice of colours, the let us not forget that we owe

arrangement of a her a great deal. She materially the circus.

That too-too natural look that, has just the right quality and it continued to expand, as incorrect

the from

Regency the Perfect Lady grow in, im- ́shawl plebeian selection of helped fo' abolish the coarsenesslowed, is out, too. And again hold powder and keep your.

spell Inherited might

we can hope that it over comes makeup fresh and lovely from and her The Perfect Lady period, Portance. Then, to balance this.

than morning until night. the sleeve grew to alarming disaster".

enough of those shiny, morning-It is an important contribu

tion to skin protection, since proportions, unill it culminated had taken her first step into an mannors gradually altered

through all classer.

faces. In the "lephant sleeves idealised world of refinement.

Sedate respectabilly was the the supreme wonian of her ers,

*Now fashion emphasis is on defends the natural, moisture-of-

against drying kat large as the skirt had been only twenty years before. To meet hall-mark of the New Lady, and dominant, coy, demure, and de-

the the art of costume had to cater termiued all at once. She was the discreetly made-tip look the akin

look that le flattering und sophia-fluence. this, tight-Incing became vogue, and there is an amusing for the prosperous bourgeoisie, the Perfect Lady.

fashions as sult her".

Victorian

A

these

Impo, back, for, we had more

She WES

to