1950-02-18 — Page 6

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OPENING.

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MACKINTOSHS

Jouts Time...

TOLD FAITHFULLY...

AND WITH BEAUTY

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 18, 1950.

WEEK-END

WOMANSENSE

Chalk-White Lace & Organdies A

For Spring

LONDON.

By JOAN ERSKINE

They were a direct return to the

Оле skirts. Elaborate scaming gives 'twenties.

Was -in ico- low revers, and HE first of the couture the filusion of an even allmmer lemon, with

line.

double-breasted fastening. A collections in London All the shirts worn with the black and white bow frothed has made ite ap- sults were attractive. Many of over the collar. The blouse was pearance, Hardy Amies, them were in foulard silk, rayon, extremely decollete, with sleeves and had composed of very wide shoulder collon, and organdie, who is one of the most in interesting diagonally buttoned straps. The other jacket was teresting designers, began necklines, draped fronts and belgo and while, and was worn showing in the morning and sleeves, fucked and pleated over a matching dress, continued until late even- panels.

shirts,

A black and white fine click ing.

The fabrics used were tweeds rayon jacket with bloused back a black dress His showroom, in quiet, and worsted, wool alpaca, silk was worn over

eyelet-holo embroidery. or rayon shantungs, linens and with Savile

facket Row, the repps, wool that looks like silk, The acdate

had enormous with fullness falling street of the tailors, differs and silk that looks like wool. A sleev from most other dress great quantity of heavy gulpure from a dropped shoulder line. salots. Instead of the in--Ince was used for dresses and This dropped shoulder, with fullness coming just above the -elbow, was frequently used on evitable pale grey and laven-

Colours were, in the main, coals and jacketa der pink, the walls are

neutral, Classte navy blue and natural oak hung with pale white vied with every shade of greon velvet curtains. At belge and toast brown. There Intervals square mirrors set were greys of every variety, a in white and gold frames, great deal of black, and chalk surmounted by Renaissance paintings, reflect the light from a huge chandelier hung in the centre of the ceiling.

in

white,

The show opened with a white top coat, very hopsack tweed simply cut with a tle belt. The hat was also white and the model carried a basket of white tulips and Illac--Impracical but spring-like,

Controversial

N many

in ON

Everyone who mattered the fashion world was there. A the glossy magazines sat in the tront row, all the not-so-well- knowna

back sat at the noticed an editress of Vogue in black velvet and mink, and the editress of Harper's Bazaar in navy and scarlet. Most of the fashionably dressed women had unhappily coincided in their choice of black Persian Jamb. and the majority wore tiny tight-fitting hats, rising to a rounded point.

}

Plain Suits

UITS have seldom been SUITE

plainer. The skirt length has risen to 15 inches from the ground, and

Jackets are short enough to balance this. All the interest is in the back-every sult shown had a skirt with bbsolutely plain front. Every conceivable form of concealed pleating is used in the straight

ckiri.

Sleeve-Length

Aleeves were neither very most of the dresses, the short, nor elbow length, but mid- way between the two, Necklines were higher and often buttoning started at the neck and finished at the hem, either in the front or back.

black

that

embroidered

white pure silk taffeth with low neck, and tiny vest of lace.

本

HARDY AMIES* magnificent white gulpure Lace modris. Be. hind is an out-

Sensible Fad

By Patricia Clary

Hollywood.

ARLES Coburn, after disgusted glances at the fads for men's shirts, dracula haircuts and hair dyed gray, would like to start a fad of his own. Monocles.

"They won't make women any loveller," he fumed. "But if they must have fads, let them havo à sensible one. Any man would rather see a woman in a monoclo than in some of the silly fada they've been adopting lately."

The fad of monocles was popu- lar in London in the 1920s. Sinco everything else from 1920 is fit for Ascot appearing, Coburn said, maybe

In

white

· black

hel

front is

*

monocles will too.

them in those

"Women wore organdle | days," he said. "Some of them and lace dress, į looked very attractive in them, tacks alternating too."

with lace, inser- tion on the

skirt. It has A strapless 103.

skirt with a cet of tucks, then an Insertion of lace, and then fucks round the hem. Beneath the lace jacket the bodice stood out stiffly In tucks.

enormous

Coburn has worn his own one- "gya”ginta”on "und-off the scTTEN Ho sporta for thiriy years. one in Universal-International's "Peggy" and is trying to talk his screen daughters, Barbara Lawrence and Diana Lynn, Into trying it

Nauseating Coloure

Ane ribbed A coat in black worsted, was worn over a dress in brilliant yellow rayon, with horizontal tucks round sleeves, yoke, hips (giving jacket effet) of the fine tweed and round the hem.

Anduer sults there were tiny velvet black coat, in fine ribbed pure collars, and cut away curved silk and wool was worn over a jacket fronts. A grey flecked foulard silk dress in rich blue,

"MID-CENTURY BLUES

"It's much more sensible than fine homespun suit skirt had with a hidden scrolled design in had a tucked top and tucked five knife plents in a panel at the

mink slacks, green nail polish or black.

sleeves, and a short massive models bnek. A brilliant plak Cumber- The

French bathing suits," he said. gained skirt composed of layer upon Midnight blue Nottingham lace land tweed overcoat was worn opplause from B critical

layer of handkerchief points. It. over silver lame, floating pink "Women have been blaspheming over a matching pink sult with audience were the evening and was made of pure silk organza, spotted tulle, grey rayon jersey the inmortal trouser, painting

A shirt. plent wrapped party dresses. "Trefoil" was light as a feather.

and drop pearls stliched on to

their nails with naurating over to ene sido of the tight white

organdic,

bodice, made dream-like colours and flashing before the Silk braid

coat over n buttoned liko bound

"MONTEGO BAY" was Adressen. "MAIDEN'S BLUSH"

naked cyo the curves they either edges of a black barathea sult, white base. Sleeves were elbow long tight dress in white Irish was the appropiate name for a have too much of or lack com- and continued down the edgee length and cuffed. A huge linen bulioned from the neck

pink fulle dress, with on Pletely. The monocle would be of the back plents.

cartwheel hat was worn right down the back, and left There was with

skirt composed

their most timid and sensiblo entirely of handkerchief points feature," Sleeves were

....Tulle was thickly plaited to wool coat worn over a dress in short and pockela

were huge, form an off the shoulder neck-ought to wear one. But if the fad He doesn't think every woman of with bands of sparkling white cotton with bands

red line, held at one side only. by a Jace and Kulpure inserted from yoke beading on them.

catches on, of course silver strap.

will. with straight

A white guipure lace dress, covered with large salin spots. "PIERETTE" was black fulle skirt, with

and tiny

The short matching loco hat, had a huge

tight under-skirt bertha collar falling like a cape who covered with two Blers of NE of the lovelles! fabrics

very full tulle,

was n grey, belge and mauve and an enor- -over the shoulders. The same

white lace' formed

mous bow at one side of the shot pure silk taffeta, with an pices top

a vast anlon-skin effect. for a navy blue floating stole. Black puro allk

un strapless bodice held pure silk dress with tiny ting taffeta was used for a very wide

The last dress was a crinoline jacket. A huge bustie bow. cascaded down the back of cummerbund sash,

pleated skirt with loose of white

organdie with three liers in the skirt, cach edged "NIGHT, SKY”—n navy and

with coloured silk embroidery. An organdie tie wrapped round the top to cover one shoulder and leave the other bare, save over a very full for a huge bow.

a feeling for black and white.

The hat worn with this sult was like a tiny feathery helmet of white felt overlapping fringes, The blouse had a black white scrolled pattern.

Two jackets falling straight to the hips will cause controversy.

Choosing Bath Toiletries

navy blue fine ribbed silk and allow walking.

it, "ASCOT 50" was n unbuttoned nt the knees

to hem.

A Modern Middy Dress

ป

"HOPE" was the name of white organdle and Nottingham lace dress. The tiny lace jacket atted neatly

The Loveliest

everyone

"Monocles are for correcting- vision," he insisted "Many people need glasses only for one qye. That's where the monoclo performs an honest, unaffected service.

I permonally am both near- righted and far-sighted. I wear a

monoch to correct the dif-

And the humorist who sald "Men seldom make passed al girls who wear glas 18, according to Coburn, only half right-Unileg Presa.",

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After your bath, remove every trace of dampness by fluffing on a generous amount of scented dusting powder. It makes lingerie frag. rant, too.

FLEW

By HELEN FOLLETT

women are content to oils, some of fats. Many women day with a mere-soap-and- prefer those with no odour, water bath. By the free-use of using a fragrant bath powder or bath toiletries they make this lotion after the brisk rubdown

rite a joy, a ifteen-minule with a towel.

period of relaxation that puts them on their toes and gives freshness to the skin,

One may be partial to certain floretted odours, or one

After your bath is the time

to give your toes a little atten- tion, Cut the nalis straight may beroas; if you cut them down have a fondness for the more st the sides the flesh Will astringent aromas, like laven- thicken there and you will be der, verbena or pine. Bath salts in for trouble. Touch each nati come in handy. They are not

with only fragrant, but they soften the water.

Soap Choice

complexion and

all

you

2

The choice of soap is n mat ter of individual proference. If the skin becomes sensitive, mako change; you may have been using the wrong one along. While all toilet soaps are high grade these days.

one kind may prove more acceptable and soothing than, ánather, bave found

One that Bgrees with Your

hands, use it for the bath, stick to use no other, even if it is a bit more expensive. Choose it not for shape, colour or scout, but

effect upon your skin.

There are

glycerine that are

pleasant, medicated слов that hays antiseptic qualities, others that claim do away with the baleful B U. Some are made of vegetable.

Liberty Diamond Cutting Works (Pty) Ltd. for practical purposes and

Johannoaburg, South Africa.

Bank of East Asia Bldg.

7th Floor, Room 707,

Telephone 21386,

Hong Kong.

the

Boaja

to

mineral' oll, use the orange wood stick to lift the cuticle from the nall fabric. * A fow minutes of massage is a Foud idea. If you use polish put on two thin lims, letting the first one dry before puting on second one.

W

By Vera Winston

SHADES AND shapes of the roaring 20's The short, close hair-do, the sheath dress, the beaded job, and now the middy drens! ferò in n now

version

of the middy dress, a one-piecer with a. two-piece look. The middy is of fine wool jersey in navy blue. It has push-up | sleeves and a sailor collar 03 tafeta lined with the jersey. The full flated skirt is of

The 'droopy' walk goes with new pouched-back dresses

by SUSAN DEACON

THE "secrets" of the "Big Ten" of

the London fashion houses' spring collections reveal that the mixture

is much the same ns before.

We were surprised to see at some collections the flying panels and flared overskirt which Paris showed a year ago (and which even the wholetale manufacturers consider out of date).

But our disappointment was well balanced by the impeccable tailoring, fine cloths, and restrained styling of the coats and sulis.

London shows a slim, straight outline. The sloping drup shoulder is popular, except with the classle tallored sult (Sketch No. 1.)

The flat shoulder-wide shawl collar runs through the collections (Sketch No. 4).

Leg-o'-mutton

SLEEVES,

LEEVES have the old leg-o-mutton influence,

the elbows, and the wrists lightly cuffed.

Sult Jackets and coats are straight and boxy, with the exception of one designer who shows a full cape-like suit jacket, the sleeves being little more than cuffed slits at each side. The pouched back on dresses and sults is seen a lot (Sketch No. 5).

There is a special walk which goes with this but it cannot be bought with the clothes.

the waist line.

The mannequin rounda her wrist. I thought many of the shoulders and crosses over shoulders, hollows hor chest, and coats bt these spring collections walks with knees together and looked.wrapped-up and wintry. stomach out, giving a peculiar droopy offect. The

fashion houses have laid down no rules for a suitable facial expression; maybe they reckon it will fol- low automatically,

THE

Suits

the-taffeta, and the belt is of jet-Emartest suit I saw was in navy blue worsted: The fac- sey with a leather backing.

ket had a Atting waist with loose flap at the centre back like a man's sports jacket..............

.

'Venetian Blind' In Swimsuits Sets New Mode

FILAMOUR, girls with a tendency to look angular in swimsuits can now correct their defects with new gadgets called "cont tours."

The contours are waterproof falsies, plainly marked "right" and" "left."

Latest bathing suits feature plunging necklines. Most have zippers that, according to manufacturers, "go way down to almost anywhere, or up to almost modest."

One two-plece sult has a venetian blind arrangement down each side of the shorts, 'and 'the centre of the bra.

Sections of the blind are built in squares which to list for complete coverage, or may be crushed into bows to show off a triangle of muntan

4

The straight skiri had a wrap- ever fap at the back, and this and the flap on the jacket. were both med with scarlet. Lining were - only when the model-walked.

Coats "

Day dresses

10

One designer showed the "stick of rhubarb" line. (Sketch No. 3). This is straight and slender, and often has R sido draping which may be warn covering the shoulders to form a cape.

MENERALLY, dresses ogain U have slim skirts with much drapery, Many ine wool dresses had pleated skirts with phats folling from the hip line, giving The most beautiful evening a long torso line.

dresses I saw were shown by One, the Queen's dressmaker. One fine wool dress I saw in called the "Primrose Path," had grey, yellow and black plaid was a bouffant skirt of layer upon ruined with too much detail. layer of lemon tulle. The bodice It had pleats, buttons, belt, a was made almost entirely of wide collar and a lace vestec. tiny primrose hands.

Silk dresses were in unusual fern and orchid space designs. The styles, I thought, were

Colours

You will be smart this sprieg

-visible suitable on the whole for older it you wear pink and black.

VERY popular is the old tent coat without its full back. These coats often have wide, flat, shawl

COL- collars which

phasise the jino.

sloping shoulder

women.

pink

till·

I've seen black mult with sugar- - A sign of the times perhaps plak blouses, or a complete that younger women cannot black' outnt wom with a

hat. Grey is afford from £85 for a day dress. and black

Evening dresses

N

NE

good. I saw no tartans.

- Many garden-party hats with

sees fewer naked enormous.cartwheel brims week shown, Many were in black shoulders and strapless tops straw and unadorned (Sketch In evening wear than last season. No. 2). The sleeve fullness start from The shawl collar is evident the elbow, Biting tightly to the too. It drapes slightly off the-

~~~{Londow Express Service)