1949-12-31 — Page 6

MACKINTOSHS

HAVE A FEW OF THEIR DESK CALENDARS LEFT AND WOULD BE PLEASED TO GIVE ONE TO

ANY OF THEIR FRIENDS WHO CARES TO CALL IN OR SEND

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WHERBONGKUNGE

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Woman fashion expert dreams of London Gallery of Costumes for 1951 Festival

GRANDMOTHER'S 18-in. WAIST WAS A MYTH

A Handsome Face

an Honest Heart

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RUTH DRAPER

In the "morning pelismo" of 1833.

LYNN REDGRAVE

In the "fasy, impractical" dres of a child of 1803.

And boyish look of '20s

was an optical illusion

A

By EILEEK ASCROFT

GALLERY of costumes for all who are in- terested in fashion, is the dream of fashion, expert Doris Langley Moore, who has probably the finest col- lection of 19th and 20th dentury English dresses,

Sho would like to form the basia of an embracing fashion museum including reference library, plc- tures,

and actual

of clothes every era.

this

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"Imagino I," says Mrs Lang- ley Moore, "as a place where. besides historic speelmens, there would be current fashions rafview.

Selected examples of the Infest textiles, and the best pro-

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ducks of our tailors and turlers would be acquired year

ዘለ by year, with oppropriate cessories.

VIVIEN LEIGH

In the dress that started the whole collection,

heavily trimmed gaberdine tuale of 1577.

Actresses like Vivien Leigh, ballerinas such as Margot Fon- and teyn and Moira Shearer, Alm stars including Google Withers have modelled the

dresses.

MOIRA SHKABER Wears a log-of-motion bridal

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The coveted boyish looku! the mid-twenties has also be-.

with exaggerated

tho years,

Mrs Langley Moore prophe- sies that these women ".,, will soon be assuring their descen-. Grandma's Fraud

dants that they were absoluto- One of the most interesting ly. straight up and down, which revelations made by Mrs Lang-was certainly the fashion-plate ley Moore is that the waist of figure, and the optical illusion the Victorian Miss was not 18in every smart woman attempted,

and many attained. our grandmothers liked boast. It was at least 26in.

Smallest waist in the whole collection is 21in.

the Explanation for

18in. thinks, 18 myth, Miss Moora that grandmothers remember their girlhood a tile idealist cally also that clothes were so

to a cunningly contrived build the cut bust and hips, that waistline looked automatically smaller.

An inspiration What a splendid addition this Gallery of Costume would be to

London's museums.

our

Apart from being a source of knowledge and Inspiration for

and fashion industry, constant fascinating history les- son for our youth, it would be 0 valuable show-place for overeens visitors,

And what better time to open 1 than the 1951 Festival of Britain?

Many of Mrs Langley Moore's fascinating dresses are photo- graphed for her latest book The Woman in Fashion.

By Joan Erskine

£19

to

aró

Other myths exploded that Victorian hips and bosoms were rounder, and that shoulders sloped in a manner unknown today.

The former was due to bullt- out cage-like corsets, the lat- ter to skilful cut.

IN 1947

1947 THE NEW

UPON US, AND IN

LONDON.

N 1947 the "New Look"

I burst upon us. In 1949.

LOOK

"The fact that they were not straight up and down is attest- ed by the mere existence of a younger generation."

in with

Women's Agures have, fact, changed very little the years. The average model today has no difficulty in get- ng thto any of Mrs Langley Moore's collection..

-And those tiny feet

Of 69 spedmens from 1805 to 1870, 15 dresses definitely need- ed models of small stature, Bft. 3in, or under; 20 called for a height of 5ft 4in. and 20 re- quired wearers of Btt. Oln.

Our grandmothers' much ad- mired tiny feet also come ir

BURST 1950...?

with very arc

we may have a silght variation with slightly bloused back and on the cloche and the beret tight skirt. The strictly tailored Our heads will not be so much sult has lost none of its populari- hugged pext year, as caressed, ty, but the belted suit has taken by cleverly folded and draped precedence at the moment. The hats which in nearly all cases leading fabric is tweed,

next- accentuate one side of the face patterned in neutral or pastel only. With some

Ingenuity shades. Almost without those of us who are convinced--ception, makers--have returned we present two quito different to the inset sleeve Wo

profiles to the world, will be slight

Belts padding. able to hide one or the other usually in self-material, somne- completely.

times tying in front, sometimes half belted at the back only. fine narrow Occasionally leather belt is used. The other interesting feature seen on town and country suits is an adapta- tion of the novel cape effect in- talls of hair in contrasting troduced In Paris by Robert colours with which we can try

Piguet. to replenish our sadly depleted locks.

the "New Look" as such, left us. And in 1950...? Our skirts will be any thing from two to four

inches shorter than have been accustomed to see lately. The general line, which has been getting Year For Suits steadily simpler, is staying Now that hair stylists have that way. The classic court dore their worst for us, they shoe can still curl a derisive admit defeat, though not in so lip (or should it be vamp?) words, by producing vid at its bestrapped and be decked rivals.

A little thought is going into the design of our headgear-so

Sketched here is a suit that 1950 will be the year for sults will be seen in London in the -and the line is à belied one spring. It is in mist blue tweed

Stuart

with narrow bolt, and has a cape, one half of which bultons. at the back, and the other at the front. Also sketched is MATTLI's black suit of grosgrain typs rayon, which has the appearance of corded silic. The maker of the fabric calls it "Wen Chu"-- which points to a Chinese in- fluence. The sult, with its winged cape descending to a paint at the centre back, is one of the most elegant wo have for seen yet, and is suitable cocktails or afternoon wear,

A large draped shawl collar softens another saverely cut suit Single or double copped slcoves jut out on other models, above the normal long sleeve.

Most skirts are very plainly. cut, with a lap scam at the centre front or e wrap, at-the side. Side pleats, when in-

troduced, are always hidden.

Spring Doubles

The most interesting suit news to from BRENNER SPORTS who produced "Spring Doubles for the new season. This is an idea which will be greeted with enthusiasm by all women-for

it provides two entirely different

talla, dimmer. or evening "wear, choose a plain dark suit in grosgrain, faille or velveteen

with strapless top and Atting jacket Nowadays these treble- duty outfits are so well made that they can bo worn in the afternoon with no hint of the jewelled bodies beneath the jacket.

WORT,

Equal Success For town and country choose a "Spring "Double" whether

in plaid от

Jaty checks. Whatever thenate, these outfits are good value. The iden could be carried out in silk or satin, sharkskin or shantung with equal success.

But if you have already economised, and would like to greet the now- season with an extravagant flourish. Blanch Mosca shows an ideal coat and dress. The coat is in black slik matiasse, with voluminous back fullness falling from a yoke. The front is Otted, and thero is unusual pleating on the collar and clbows.

Don't

MARY MALCOLM

In the bolts green velvei jacket worn in 1898 · by her grand- mother, Lily Langley, Wila ber in her daughter. Lüop. Bartleti,

for their sharo bf debunking in this fascinating book.

Mrs. Langley Moore points out that the Victorian woman, through vanity, wore pitifully Ught shoes and suffered agonies from corns and other foot troubles. Those pretty, pointed little boots and slippers of the seventies and eighties conceal ed much unsightliness.

JOYCE REDMAN As a balding belle of 1901.

hundred could exposo her naked feet to an aesiholle eye without provoking repugnanco,

and so unshapely

Blemished

As to the tweniles, when pointed toes and high Louts had they become." heels were in vogue, she writes: "Not one woman in a

-(London Expreza Serales)

Hair Up

EXPERS

Ulip-on feathered halo gives Sylvia Sidney the most an- Bauzi-looking hair-do seen in Hollywood Qifs winter. The shawl collar of her gown is fed with a saltor's knot,

touch these fur coats-they bite

The Eton cap.

Price of pelts in the market to sell varies between £3 and £5

and "feeding materials are not expensive. Fish offal from the

EPORTS. of New York crush fabric, with a one-sided not take many years to breed

spring collections reveni scarf edged with mink tails, and yourself a fine mink coat! abelled Jucket of white fleece a strong Eastern influence. with large pockets and small

Jay Thorpo's bride room collar of leopard. has Punjab trousers for the boudoir, in muted pink taf- YOUTHFUL hat, is the Eton fetas shot with gold. Java I cap, in grey flannel, the nese gold head-dresses, and exact copy of a little boy's cap harem hip drapery On Romantic versions of the restau...” sheath-like" white taffetas rent hat include pillbox shapes, bejewelled and befeathered, and wedding gown.

brief cloches in taffetas or sheer Stripod Indian eliks in beau- tulle. tiful colours are used for shirt-

Breeding a coat walst styles by Janet Taylor, EVEN different

coloured

skirts with each facket. One is richly beaded Oriental brocades minks, varying from palo

knife-pleated all round-the other is straight. A particularly attractive "double" was in for get-me-not birdseye tweed with detachable pockets on the jac kot The Idea is carried BHU further in a tartan theran. “

Another welcome idea is the fartan blouing suit. The suit again takes on two different personalities-tho unlined Jacket. Top Left is a sult with an, top can either be worn as such, Interesting capo.

Edaptation or buttoned and tucked Anto Que' half is buttoned at the the pleated sldrt to serve as 2 back," "and the other at the shirt-waist dress. Apart from front.

Right-Mate the usefulness of having these

elegant

dual-purpose sults, there is the black cocktall' auit in Wen Chu added advantage of having an

siso, with wing effect maps extra odd skirt to wear. with Bottom-Back feview of i Line Ep your new spring ward Mattil suit showing, cape are robe can be very, simply and rangement.

economically planned. For cock-

Top

>

figure in the Travis Banton collection, and Hattle Carnegie coffee to almost black, were un- shows rich brocaded evening usual exhibits at the National gowns with looped-up hems and Poultry Show.

First characteristics one bare shoulder.

were

Glamour fur

∙noted

local shmangur and a he mink's staple diet, and a good amount of macat offal, are the water supply is essential. In London we see

Skirts with stitched plents which clean or wash,

Black lace, out in one with oyster pink satin, so that it looks like one material. crinkle nylon-a packing dream.

Uncrushable, featherweight

Printed, heavy-weight tussöre, creaseless and washable.

green and one of old rose,

The Footnote

Fancy elastic braces printed the unpleasant rather with hunting scenes and a

"goddess"" bathing, skunk-like smell and the big

Evening gloves of contrasting THER fashion highlights notice saying, "Do not touch- colours, such as one

"of Ilma include polka-dot kailted they bite." cardigans from Nettle Rose11- These seven little luxuries,

"" stein, fantastically coloured furs. valued at nearly £200, will have such as scarlet moleskin for a Interested many people with OOT fadition of the week mandarin coat, caramel Persian spare land. Mink tarraing is delicate Japanese sandals lamb for a windbreaker, and becoming more popular in this made of polished bamboo with pine green for a shaved fox country and three-quarters of an red embroidered velvet straps "shorila," and "pullover dresses nere will accommodate about held between the first and too. ¿vana of the the Capri collection

second 1000 mimink trio (a male fascinating exhibits of a bambin

of a Those have loose, cap sleeved Jacket-tops, belted above slim and two females) is about 250, collection from Japan, dhows in Minks have their "kit" In the London by the Council of skirts.

Glamour fur styles show an spring, usually a family of three Industrial Design

evening cape of white ermine or four. At this rate if would London press "derblow