1949-10-08 — Page 19

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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPHI, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 8, 1949,

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Abstractism Carried Into Fashion

Ing

to

PARIS,

ALTHOUGH it is the modern theme-a spirit that pro- jects itself right into 1030-that characterises the Paris couture showings, just finished, accord-

enbled

reports and summaries from Paris, there is also a defiulle recollection of the silhouettes and fashion points of the 1920s apparent at many houses. And since all phases of "modern" art had significant development in the '20s, Its re- flection in the general influences of 1950 secms. logical.

In the current conception of modern as applied to the new fashions in Paris, clothes and bats are related not only to abstract painting but to con- temporary furniture, as well.

Abstract Influence

CORINNE "A"'repent_short-hair convert-

DINAUL Favours the-forclock.

** CLAUDETTE

Eins worst this style for FOARE. -

FOR

Controversy of the 'Cut"...

for

ARE women resisting the fashionable another 10

J

short, "urchin" hair months. Long hair over high [cut? Mr H. Steiner, a hair collars will look ridiculous."

styllst, said

no but today. The second blow came from the "pro-urching" say why Mr Sidney Adier, on holiday they claim long hair is out from California, where of fashion.

The abstract painters who are mentioned as having left their mark on the

The first blow came from Mr. new callcetjons are specifically Picasso, Matine Sydney Riche, 40-year-old and Gaugin "Everything Mayfair stylist, asyinmetric on irregume plane, le said: "Leading fashion and angles".

"...."composition of designers are producing high not plants-sharp angler ns in collars and close hals,

These by painter's abatrnet pictures”— will be copled by the wholesale Indicate how modern painting fashion houses. technique has been carried inta Paris fashions.

Modern (80 modern that it is called Mid-Century, meaning (050) is the must significant force In the new fashion trends; the 1920s and their silhouettes another, brought up to date: and very much more minor in is repres.ntation is the Far East, and this is referred to as "modernised Chinese."

Trend-Setting

These three trends appear to be the ones that will wield the greatest trend-setting power on

This being 10. it seems jobvious that short hair will be

The manager of one chain of hairdressing shops in Britain has sold women in Britain would not adopt the new styles because alm stars had not done 50.1

The third blow came from depart-

Paris, from M. mannges hairdressing

Pierre. Reny, has who ments of 12 stores. He said:

styled "The short hair

Is the Margaret's hair. style

New best thing since the

Ho cald: "Short hair is the Look, and a great deal more

natural development ok the attractive.

French and English fashions, with their Cavalier collars and trim dresses that require short

"Hollywood stors following the new fashion include Claud- ette Colbert, Corinne Calvet, and Dinah Shore."

hair."

Princess

-(London Express Service)

Beauty points

by CHERRY MARSHALL

The secret of a smooth face

Y

OU can control the contours of your face by akilful massage. Practised, according to some authorities, by the women of Ancient Egypt, it is still an effective treat- for improving the blood circulation and re fining flabby and relaxed muscles.

ment

15 minutes

With tigers placed ffel over your mouth, stroke upwards and outwards towards the cars, working the skin on your checks gently with the palms,

Don't put the skin, par ticularly on the checkbone, but underneath. concentrate vicemouing the flesh Done a dozen times, this will prevent work ing and stimulate sagging muscles.

For unsightly "porches," put the Angertips flat on your face under your eyes,...and good 15-inthute routine A

massage lightly towards the begins, after covering the hair to temples, then from the outer prevent it getting greasy, with acorners of the eyes towards the generous coating of cold cream hairline. on hands and face. Then:

*

Cup your chin in the palms of your hund

and stroke firmly towards the ears repent- Ing 12 times.

With the palms reversed and thumbs placed on the chin, massage towords the end of the Jawbones, also 12 times.

These are an effective treat- ment for a double chin.

London Autumn Collections

LONDON. DARIS has let us down badly. Fashion writera.

P

in England saw the British couture collections, and rushed across the Channel jon masse to see the French

Rival Paris'

current fashions-la-the-making offerings. Many of them noonday sun,

Even modern furniture has contributed inspiration to new Paria fastions in Ita asymmetric coupling of pinnes, angles and spheres,

Displacing. The Choker

E dat Egyptian collar is the

THE

newest Jewellery for even-

ut wear, having quite dis- placed the choker. Pearls and

mixed. And

It are often cafty claturate collar may be o wide, that it fills in much of he decolletage. Sometimes mitation pearls, with rubies or meralds, are used in the same ornament, with occasionally arrings to match.

Tracery necklaces are another nnovation; these

TAW

Dr

nte

short elaborately worked earl or jewet motifs strung lo the front of a narrow chain, or a series of pearl links with ong lussel ends These are in- ended to be wom with the "portrait"

neckline which very much like an Elizabethan ullar or ruff. A glance at a contemporary portrait will show

hat

in womet

the mic- Ixteenth century or carlier wore ecklaces of very much the same type,

Pins, Scatterpins

But extremely modern in their fre the scatterping, hatelaines and Inpel 'pina. which, in Britain, promise to be

much very

this vogue utumn. The idea is 10 wear severni tiny pins of different designs on the lapel of Jacket Tiny Insects are popular at 'pre- ient.

in

have since regretted they did not enthuse

For

that us with their more fumes in the

By JOAN ERSKINE

13

and sprayed The truth of the matter

Intest per that the London designers beat cool of the Paris to it this time. Perhaps

here

over the London fashions. evening; the models drifted it will never happen again-but

Paria gave us leed, like blown flowers along the collections seen over drinks in the heat of the floodlight aisles at mid- this autumn anticipated almost every one of the French trends. and interpreted them, moreover, with far more grace and elegance than Paris.

息

THE "DISTURBED HEMLINE" is this, Ronald Peter- son's young formal short dress with laced neckline and capped sleeves. It Is seen all over London in a varley of ways. Here it swoops up daringly at each side, for change, showing the knees. It is made of gleaming bronze taffeta with black polka dots all over, and is fresh

and orighat.

night, and the designers, looking so very much a part of the fabulous scene that is at once Fashion, and French, blew kisses to their audiences, and handed out dainty monogrammed fans for their comfort.

Woman to woman

Leopard time

again

right. Their

only

But where was the new line recourse is to pay a quinca for we had come to see? alterations.

IT is smart to wear they are

leopardskin again. From LONDON Wo get leopardskin double-breasted box jackets with three- quarter length cuffed sleeves, and fastoned with huge amber buttons..... camel coats with leopard- skin linings.

From PARIS. A atting Icopardiskin. carpet on the floor

of a man's bedroom.

From AMERICA-One quare leopardskeln pocket on a plaja black dress or skirt; or a leopardskin, belt and hang from it a man's gold watch and gold Albert.

Why is life so difficult for the womah. (and there are many) who is not blessed with a model Oguret

Many "small" and "large" women tell me of the difficulty they have, in Anding smart clothes "off the peg."

A foot-wearying search of London shops convinces nở thật

A floral idea

When arranging your flowers, at home It is new to use fruit and flowers together.

A

while

With a kick

china black

These were the autumn col- lections, important ones, and buyers and press representa- lives from all parts of the world were congregated in this gayest

te faced.

There is no new line.

|"

There Is one point worth noticing. This year Parla has come out in open challenge to the British tweed and worsted export market by booslog her woollen industry. Before the war France did not seriously compete in the heavier material ranges she concentrated on

silks claborate

and salins, broentles and taffetas. And this

they went to extreme-the hobble-skirts were so tight that at one house evea the man- nequins hadi trouble with them and asked for the car- pets to be litted so that they could glide along the parquet

↓

Twelve repeats

To smooth a lined forehead, massage formly from the tips of the rose along the bridge to the centre of the forehead, and fan out to, the temples. Repeat 12 times.

By this time you will find that the cream h been absorbed by the pores. Replenish generously, and begin move- ments again from No-1

When the massage is com- płoted, sponge the residue of the face with cold water..

Our skins, unless naturally olly, tend to сортбел In excessive sunshine.

Remomeful addiets, dismayed by a summer-tan that hasn't quile gone out or is turning sallow, should try a face-pack of fuller's carth and a few drops of, lemon.

It should be left on for 15 minutes and then washed off with warm water. Dry skin

with

with good

Use salt

floor! As one male observer was heard to comment unhappily. [must be treated "Either their skirts are too tight blenching cream. to let them alt down, or they are buttoned up to the eyebrows and we can't see their faces!"

Paris, It's Late!

In brief, flowing top conts are still

there, gults are tight- akited

and loose Jacketed, collars are high and wide, and skirts are slightly shorter. In the London spring collections af this had been seen.

Helena Gelters showed Д "barrel Jacket" suit-in Paris a week Irter, Marcel Rochas showed the cell-same line, And it happened again and again,

DORVILLE'S ten green dress in fine wool with white ruffle

at neck, liko ple-crust proves attractive, and original.

Briteln

slands n reasonable chance of coming out on top, not only through imagination and skill

in handling tweeds and worsted, but also through minny of practice,

years

DIÓR has used the thickest

I have seen white carnations of capitals. The sad truth must in one field in which arranged. In basket together with grapes and trailing ivy..

To arrange this you need to place a shallois dish of water- inside the bowl for the lvy and

Paris played with vast collars, flowers.

muffled us to tho Doses with Have roses, and a few loose chiffon ruffles, and M. Dior rose petals, on a centre dish of throw in several dresses that possible "door-mat" tweeds for peaches for the dinner table.

might have been lifted from the his winter coats. He borrowed, word* pages of any fashion magazine an idea from the cloaks.

the French shepherds of the by of the twenties-with skirts Pyrenees-to

aro loose they the almost circular, and compote. short enough for us to do

can be penches, Charleston in, if we felt inclined wrapped round in double thick- stewed prunes, spricots (frozen), that way. (He slyly introduced ness in cold weather. In some and, if you are lucky enough to one of these low-waisted, short sleeve is so low

“other models tho have them, golden raisins.

dolman that It ap~ Serve it ice-cold or heated, skirted efforts in his previous penca like a shoulder cape. and add three or four table collection-just to give us spoons of sherry befor: serving, foretaste of things to come. Wo

haped at the time it was a pas Suean DeacON -{London Express Bervice)

RECIPE.-A fruft

Itick--use д

with

A

The main Paris theme seemed to incline towards very tight hobble-skirts" relioved by

panels, or side drapery.

But

ing whim, but than, hope sheath-liko overskirts, floating always springs eternal, etc.).

The

line no-one

A teaspoon of salt mixed a teaspoon of skin food' la excellent for removing dry flakes of skin which peels off its tan instead of fading.

An unusual and stimulating face-maste A mentholated ointment of the kind weed for relieving colds,

It should be smoothed thinly over the face, keeping it away from the eyes.

Lave it on until the tingling pensation becomes uncomfort-

able, then sponge with a hot

towul Remove the ren'due with tissues, and finish off by bathing the face in cold water. This is also good for large porés. a condition aggravated by heavy make-up which is not tcrupulously removed ut night. A face-pack la no subsillufo for caroful cleansing.

Avoid grease

Women who have skin trouble and find foundɔtlons harmful should ask their chemists. to tint a bottle of calamine lotion. Blemishes luxuriate in grease, and

olly commettes

must be avolded.

wash Always

with medicated soup, and use boracic lint instead of a face flannel.

Soine women have optimistic belief in ice as a skin stimulant. Unfortunately, tends to break the tiny veins. under the surface of the stin and can give the face a mottled look.

It.

Ice should never be used un- less it is first wrapped in o

Ane handkerchief.

A safer method of toning and stimulating the skin is gentle friction with a small rubber.

suction brush.

In the event of a late season heat-wave, remember you will look cooler if

Your lipstick. mall-and the- colouring aren't bright pillar box Ted,

You favour amalt, rather than a shiny, make-up.

Your hair is not over-piled. Wear it short. or tie it off the neck with a pretty ribbon,

Autumn tints

Brighter lips

After the bronzed gaiety of summer malte-up, colours will agnia emphasise creamy skins and femininity. Brady for autumn. subtle-tinted pinks, soft-toned

and delicate thought corts

are the

appropriate, lip- would last longer than a year, stick shades if you are fair. oddly enough, is more popular Brunettes should choose clear- than ever. That is the ballettone reda rather tian bold langth evening dress, tight-crimsons, and except for red- bodiced and

to very fulf-skirted. heads, it is wise. cvold Why? Because it is flattering, geranium or blue-red. ・・ dainty, and very pretty. Women something they like, even when are not too willing to give up all the laws

of fashion are against them.

Hats are, in the main, stili small.

This is principally be pop cause the short hair-style BitT popular, and large

hats lookinstick rather odd without

sufficient hair to balance them. But even here there is variety. You may wear a tiny tting cloche that shows your forehead (or your widow's pook, if you have one), or it can show a short straight fringe, or a longer curled one.

Too large mouths need pastel Hosticks, Before filling in, out- ine them carefully with a p stick brush, keeping just within the edges.

Small mouths can carry the slightly beyond the outer edacs. First drawn with a' lip pencil, this will look

perfectly notum).

Us: brighter, moro adven turous colour tones of bright rose and fams rod,

-(London Express Service)....