1949-09-24 — Page 6

*

LIGHT WEIGHT.

FUR

FELT

HATS

from

HILHOUSE

THE "LITTLE OLD HAT SHOP" IN NEW BOND STREET STILL CARRIES THE SAME AIR, STILL PRODUCES THE SAME HICH GRADE HATS THAT HAVE MADE IT. FAMOUS

FOR A CENTURY AND A HALF.

On show in the window at

MACKINTOSH'S

Alexandra Building

'Des Voeux Rond.

Get a complete

JOCKEY UNDERWARDROBE

JOCKEY SHORT

for active sport

JOCKEY DELLIN

JOCKEY LONG

be celd days, EJ-

Sher wow.

Com avpport Lo dress-up

JOCKEY OVER-KNEE

protas lander skin,

Travoor pesos.

Jockey Midway

Big praedios for everyday wone,

NO BINDING... no chafing ..... -ņo squirming..........when you'rò wearing Jockey Underwear. Because every stylo fits snug

as your skin, every garment has

the famous Y-Front for

masculino suppork Come in→→→→ get a supply of the styles you prefer then get real comfort. And don't forget Jockey, Contoured Shirts to match!

Originated and manufactured enly by Coepura.

HONGKONG'S BETTER STORES HAVE THEM

Exclusively a

Arriving by air shortly

HATS

by

Aage Thabrup

Of Brook Buzet,

London W.1.

Paquerette

GOWNS

SHOES

Ltd

& ACCESSORIES Gloucester Bldg. 16 Das Voeux Rd.,

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH SATURDAY SEPTE

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

A preview of the clothes to be worn by 34 fashion ambassadors

FUR OVERSKIRT FOR COLD DAYS

London.

THIRTY-FOUR lucky

girls, with 18 pairs of 15-denfer Anent- gauge nylons in four shades tuck- ed into each of their suit- cases, will fly to New York,

They are the four bat lerinas and 80 girls of the Sadler's Wells Corps de Ballet.

Primarily the girls are going to dance on their American- Canadian tour, but they wal also act as ambassadors for British fashions.

Each girl will take two out- nita, one for travel and one for cockinils, complete with huts, gloves and shoes, donated by different fashion Houses,

visited

flat the secret where these Cinderella trous- seaux are assembled.

Beautiful gift luggage-white rev-robe and shoc-hat box for Moira Shearer, two sulleases, hat-shoe box and fited beauty case in brown hidr all in win tartan and initialled for rails ballerina Margol Fonteyn-waits in the hallway.

Hats, shoes, gloves Inside, dozens of pairs of shoes stand ready-plain court stylts in calf for travel, more elaborate models in satin and surde for cocktail ensembles.

Gloves are hand-made and many have been specially dyed to match the dresses,

Each ballerina will take clx fine linen handkerchiefs initial- led and edged with deep lace, The others will have six fine

ther linen ones with

initials embroidered in on: corner.

by

Eileen Ascroft

Hats are mostly small styles, contributed by London milliners, of the same Many are made material as the clothes,

Sweaters, blouses in linen and sharkskin, smart umbrellas in gay colours with crook leather

and handbags complelo. handles, and the trousseaux.

Reds, greens and dull Koids predominate among the rows of cocktail dresses, Textile manu- facturers have given beautiful tweeds and sultings for the travel cutats, all of

which include an overcont.

London Designers The four ballerigas are being dressed by members of the In- corporated Society of London Fashion Designers and some aro completed, I have already teen Beryl Grey's Norman Hartnell cockta dress in gun-metal tafeln, with ruched skirt and sleeves.

Margot Fonteyn's Michael Sherard travel outfit is perhaps 'the most original. A white face cloth box jacket, lined with black sealskin coney, with an upstanding collar goes over a A plin black face cloth suit. fur overskirt of black concy can be buttoned on to the skirt for chilly days.

Fairy godmother behind this grand British fashion promotien Idea is the export textile paper will give Ambassador, which the girls a big reception in New York and make sure they meet the right people.

right The

pre, of people

In this case

Whims Of

course, American store

buyers

akirt, which; should bo aimple with olthor

drape br spacci fan pleals.

If you have ti "ittle dress- maker" and you're a lucky woman If you have! you'l be fascinated with n new material shop which specia

'and fashion writers.

1-Stotes in bright plaids, which combine hood and cape give now. zest to plain belled clasale coats.

Ribbon-edged two-way ful materials cardigan, with detachable collar, at reasonable brightens wool frocks on chilly prices. days,

Ilses in beauti

D U uc

b €550 two-sided antins, Inmes and sille jer- seys for oven- ing gown, pure silk crepe

for

→British women

Raliproof and windproof hats Smart stormy days, in tailored styles, made in stitched wool, felt or velvet,

Strapless Top 3-Glamorous ceart of tulle, with a rose pinned casually at one akle, dresses up a strapless top for winter ovenlogs.

de chino and satin for lingerio match your

own tresses and 4-Swashbueling bag, beret ottoman milk, the silk toota

worn as a braid for evening on and

triangle bearf rot,

velvet moiifs for cock- short styles, with with

dresses and design, rejuvenates a tall

bartiens, plaid

gaberdine and hopsack for day Ured-looking suit.

A trio of useful shops heads frocks....

...these are some of the my discovery. First makes even materials, but my choice was a ing handbags in a

variety of pastel English brocade with a styles out of the odd halt-yard charming daffodil pattern. of material to match your new

NEW

hair IDEAS-Nylon evening dress,

switches, which can be brushed, Second Is shop for the Intger combed, washed, and dyed to weman who likes elegant clothes attractive exclusive houseconis and pure silke undies and nighties. (tip sizes 44in 62. In stock, and can be made up to 64ła.)

Models I particularly liked wers grey wool Jersey house- coats, one In binck gros gran for dining at home, pastel spun silk bed Jackets (very dimeull to And in large sizes) and an evening tunic and skirt in black with jet bugle silk, trimmed beads.

Skirt and tunic can be worn reparately with other skirts and tunic tops,

Note--Basic fashion rules for

nre figures

square outsize

from long line shoulders, a

More shoulder to hip, and emphasis on the bodice than the

Autumn

BARREL JACKETS & TIGHT SKIRTS

LONDON

NEW method of show-

Aing a collection camo

18

(18

By Joan Erskine

very tight, the jacket double buttoned, and the blouse was trimmed with block Falin, visitors from all parts of the sequins, for a dinner dale,

For country into being during Couture

wear, the sult world. I found myself with Week recently, when Lady Martin, whose husband is took on a very different look. were the high-heeled many as four and five collec- the Agent-General for Victoria, Gone tions were shown daily. Australia, a woman offlelal from shoes, the fur hat, and the fur accessories. Instead, flat walk- Designers with foresight the American Embay, and a

writer from

Toronto. ing shoes, and pale blue woollen A cap of accessorka. were worn. worked out that, rushed and

were all in favour

witle scarf, with pompoms, fashion writers English tailor-mades,

and all busy

a cable-stitched

sweater were, they still had to eat, said they preferred the cut of and

our suits to any in the world,

made the difference, and would probably wel-

But

they thought we should come an Invitation to u

hesitate before venturing into Fork Luncheon. This worked other fields of design. I per- rank wronk very well. Between the tonally feel, this is a

view

Many to lake,

of our rush of morning and after-

dresses, for in noon shows, the lunch-timo evening collections fitted in admir-stance, are not so exaggerated or extreme as the Paris models, ably.

but most of them are far more "wearable."

Two very succissful Luncheon dress shows, which to our gratification, worked to schedule and finished ou time, were held in Couture Week.

One was Kiven by Helena Goffers,

cou- an independent turier who aroused great in terest in London bat year when she opened her Spanish House in Mayfair. She has achieved another success by establishing herself as resident designer at ane of London's largest stores, She told us how, when visiting America, she hat been im pressed by the number of stores which maintained their own

Her salon designer.

one.

Slim Line

The line of Helena Geffers' collection was a slim, straight Bre really Most skirts light, with a suggestion of the thirties, rather than the twen- Hats are mostly small, lies.

side-dipped. Black and all and brown, cinnamon and rust shades predominated.

As is now usual she showed many double-purpose clothes. "B "Bride's red-brick

CHON 40 called a

suit and hat, with a lame shirt. Rich nutra trimmed the collar and pockets, Later the called

model returned wear- minus tho "The Regency Room-and it ing the same suit,

nutria her future collections show the

accessories, and worn with woollen sweater, cap and promise

Arst autumn this of

SUFFER WILL aillance

of Heart" accessories, "Change one, it will be a happy

named: (Aija

of Interest,

for the store and hersel. This this was a when the fur designer, incidentally, took her point oved, the suit is immedi

the British own collection to Exhibition ni Copenhagen,

ritish ately

is removed,

taken out of the highly where she was very successful. taxed luxury class).

During the preliminaries. A very elegant town sult in when Miss Geffers welcomed deep blue bouels was trimmed her guests, and the guests eyed with black persian lamb, and a side-dipping beret was of Der- each other's clothes, we had a chance of talking to writers and stan lamb also.. The skirt was

Teen-Age

Fashions With

Sophistication

A Note Of THERE

is definitely a sophis- ticoted, air about the toen collection of formal, date, casual and school colfond shown ja New York salon.

at

New designer Allen Graham adds many high fashion details but keeps a nent, wearable and easy skirt movement,

Loose panel overskirt shown with a slim lined underskirt in navy blue taffeta is accented with block, velveteen collar and tuffs and could well be included among the three top styles at this house.

Effective Combination This designer does many well- To set the teen world on fire, styled wool dresses In high cotton plaid dress with matching shades; unusual fabric combina- culolies are the big surprize in tions and tweedy types. · Elfec- the showing. The dress has a tive is a cotton and corduroy two-piece simple gathered skirt, black combination in velvetcon collar and buttons belted tunle dress down

the front,

Talking Points

The mannequin butlons the dress only to the waist so that plaid culottes are fully evident, Stiff buster, brown collars with plaid bow are the talking points

The Barrel

Nasturtium leaves added to green salads give just that extra "kick."

-{London Express Service)

CUCUMBER “FASTAL " Vally fizes the "salad"-

IZA VALLY -USES CUCUMBER,TOMATO

Salad facial

By EVELYN IRONS.

PARIS.

THE latest Paris beauty

Other notable points about her suits were the very tight skirts, slightly longer juckets,

treatment is sto put a and jersey linings for warmth. One very original Jacket was salad on a woman's face.

-11- "barrel" because Iza Vally, ex-ballet dancer, called a

at the waist, but filled well in had no arms-just his and one of the few men in a tight black an almost all-women trade, was worn over woollen street dress

trimmed started it.. with velvet bands.

"THE BARED BOSOM TO

STAY...

"

Satin, net and taffeta combina in one of the most attractivo ankle-length formals. Black

THIS IS DESIGNER taffeta bodice tops a black not

Meredith Peterson, bouffant skirt with white katin

"Button, #Button"jobdross underskirt Medium wide rod

which is evidence of her satin belt adds a bright finishing

bellef that the barod bosom, 18 here to stay WThe touch. Natural shoulderga and full soft skirts predominatedrais, displayed in Severly Hu, California, maybe. buttoned up or unbuttoned at the wearer's discretion,

ปส

on a black velveteen dress within crisp taffetas Velveteen black patent leather contour banda, bows and belts are a

favourite touch.

Vally cliooses ripe, Juley Denches and

tomatoes, peara, lemons, a nice big cucumber or two. several pounds of carrots, turnips, new potatoes, a few let luces, a bunch of bananas.

FREPARATION...... Cucumber, knife, board. -

the

Al his Ingredients had been thoroughly washed first, and he aliced them with their skins on Slices of lemon on the nose and chin ("That's astringent

parts of for the greasy face"). Carrot on the upper Up ("It's nourishing for wrinkles around thero"). Said Vally today: "Nearly

slice of potato on each eyelid every vegetable and trust is good("To whiten them"). for the skin. I just leave out onions....and garlic. **

No onions

Vally, a slim, dusky, 46-year- old Italian who has lived 25 years in France, worked out his salad "facial" at Nice during tho German occupation when there were-no' faco creams.

Vally arranges nine or ten different kinds on the face at once,

Leman on the noso

I watched him make this beauty salad on a client's face. There were the usual pre- liminaries of creaming and

cleansing. Then Vally got out his chopping board,

Say

reject the urchin cut

—AND TINS 18 IT The srobin cui

BRITISH Women are reslating the short "urchin style" haircut which is sweeping America and rapidly spreading in Paris and Rome-despite its obylous advantages financially.

The "urchin style" requires no setting at a hairdresser's salon, and it is possible to cut it at home (many Parisian

with women do it themselves razor binden), but women here prefer their longer and more expensive hair styles.

Even

the smart Mayfair women who insist on being in fashion are now regretting that they gaily had their hair loppett

Already ellents are coming to me with requests to have Во false pleces of hair made that they can be fixed to the short ends," said Mr H. Steiner, Mayfair haledresser.

Two reasons

will

In the suburbs women not be persuaded to try the new style.

Mr George Cantell, who is manager of three hairdressers' allops in Subiton, Kingston and Wimbledon, said:

"One of the main reasons is that their husbands do not, on the whole, like short hair. They preter women to look femfalne. "The other reason is that few film stars have gone in for the fashion."

1

Hairdressers profor it

From his shop In Chiswick, Me Eugene Benson said:

"Although it definitely makes women look younger, they do not take kindly to having their hair off.

no

"Most of them have had a little off so that it longer drags over their shoulders, but beyond that they will not go.

"I do not think the ordinary business girl and housewife will take to it. As hairdresser I must say wo prefer shorter hair. It is easier to work with."

-London Express Service}

Heart On

Your Heels-

LJEARTS and diamonds HE

of sterling silver, spades and clubs of 24k gold highlight one stocking in an allover pattern. Thin some motif, starting with a joker, is en in black and red nylon velvet forming an outside clock. Still another idea in clocks is a gingham-with- velvet closed umbrella.

Novelty heel reinforcements, Aall-over patterns and clocks in nylon velvat, 24k gold, and sterling silver, and a range of 14 State Fair colours, off

offer a Cucumber ("Nourishing") laid series of themes In the autumn carefully. round the checks. collection of a hosiery firm Hollywo Tomato ("Astringent, and rich designer Willys of

Heel reinforcementa In vitamins") on the forehead. A

tho fleur-de-lis heel which few slices of peach and pear features fused velvel in seven here and there.

Easy at home

a

It was all tied on with white cotton mask, and the

includa

colours, and the modernistle heel-6 inches long and re- བ V-snipped grosgrain tembling ribbon in texture and shape. Double heel hose have 24k gold, sterling silver, and velveteen

woman was left to absorb the for the cutline pattern, juices for 20 minutes or so.

Sold Vally: "It is easy to do nt home, With, the mask you can

got on with the housework while the juices act."

-{London Express Service),

For brides there is a seed pearl dolled medallion set at the instep, as in the stockings made for this designer

Arst

Rith Inyworth's wedding "en-: semble which have been added by, buyer request.

It With Flowers

PARISIAN women are wearing

flowers, American manufac turers returning from Paris are '. enthused about the way that city's women are literally in bloom with floral accessories. To this they add the report that are fedturing dress showings more flower trimmings. than has...) been frun ́in many years,

Here are some of the newest ways to make use of the flower fashion:

SMALL BUD clusters pinned to the wrist of a glove is sadd to be the newest fad.

* WOUND AROUND the wrist bracelet-wise this is true of a single long-stemmed flower as: SHOUTONNAIRES over the belt buckle on tailored styles or garlands fastened to trad from the kit waist.on edektall, and formal gowNE.

ATTACHED to simple neck laces or bracelets.

IN DEEP, autumnal colours at the collar of coats and salts.

FLAT flowers,, life-like roses and trailing stemmed fullps are the three top French flower fashions. Heavy volvela and velvetoons and stiff sliks are the fabrics. Colours are eliber full blooded such ns heavy wine, dark mossy green, heena brown and warm gold or misty like: dove gray tinted by blue lilac, green or belge and pale greige and foam green.

petals flower with

folded to one aldo as if it had been pressed as a souvenir. Equally 'able to withstand the pressura of a coat is a tone-on-tono ovál bouquet of twisted Blik surrounded by wrinkled valveteen,, leaves.

ROSES for the lapel "are generally 4 inches actoss, with many, velvet and silk petals and leaves, exact even to the arti ficial worm holes. Most effective singles or doubler, they take turn for the formal in a spray of small tea rose and plak blossoms entwined, with tralling maldenfern leaves.

in

FLAT FLOWERS, ideal for un-

PALE GOLD, mint and an der heavy coats, are fully shaped, but worked with opened instead occasional black TULIP bound, of cupped petals, They make together in a long trailer to be no pretence at reality, but play planed at the waist are also up fabric as in monotone taffeta dressy. These and velveleen model with lace insets in the dahlias with conical self stems. leaves and large wolt velvet look new for autumn.) pa

از امید