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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, MARCH 12, 1949.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Cotton with Gilt
By PRUNELLA WOOD
Joan Norton Irwia
PRETTY frock for the tropical evening setting, none
too formal to put on before the brief twilight, all set for the lovely evening, is here a fine cotton model, the snowy fabric striped with a 'non-tarnishable gilt thread,
THAT UNIQUE 1949 LITTLE FRENCH
By Joan Erskine
H
LONDON. ATS-with a sideways- alant, overy colour and every kind. Hats-in pique, satin, grossgrnin, în wicker. straw and ribbon.
Now, that the voluminous skirts and exaggerated waist- lines have disappeared, and with them all the publicity and ballyhoo that went with .the "New Look," attention ርድ again is focussed on the head.
schri, as Abstitute for-a bat.
oat. And fashion- conscious women will be glud
to hear that some of the most delightful hints on show in Paris have been chosen by British manufacturers to be m058+ produced at reasonable
prices. There is no longer any excuse for going balless. Hats have been designed for us to wear on every conceivable occasion. From dawn till dusk, at a tea dance or a cocktail party, in the garden or on the beach, hats have been thought up, for
118,
Sketched for you are some of the intest ileas from Paris. Schiaparelli shows a huge rough straw beach hat, with armholes through the brim. An off-the- face hat in wicker, with a micle drape of Paisley material, comes from the Rose Valola collection. Gilbert Orcel has designed the softly folded side-dipplug hat.
Gilbert
Rose Valois
Oncel
velvet used lavishly for party occasions,
In his second group, the ac- cent was on youth. Back with tus is the sailor, trimmed In many new ways, with cloche or rolled off-face brims. He his third
group "Little Gentle- man
and shows a man's shape made in a variety of straus, pique, or linen. The design of various models, says Legroux, has been inspired by
INSPIRATION
TNSPIRATION was derived in many cases from past periods of history, and from old master- pieces. Legroux, a milliner of Kreat -distinction. introduced hats In groups. One, the Dutch group, was inspired by the cur rent exhibition of paintings in the Munich muscum. and com- bined both Flemish and Dutch masters. The pessant burgher coifs will be familiar to inany, and the simplicity of the style is admirably enrried out in pleated linen, organdie, pique, and rough straw, with black pearance.
nad
and
the di Terent fabrics.
Caroline
Schiaparell
HAT
iner, is chalk-white. Light rust, pink, blue, and green are used, with black on formal occasions. Shades of yellow, from the palest lemon to ochre rose, aro almost as popularis wicker.
as white. Most outstanding which Rose Valols uscs .ns basis of her collection. She com Lines it with straw, natural
the
or
lacquered, In braided or
or basket- woven brims, crowns, or part of the hat. Turbans and caps are minde of
and evening straw.
of Lightweight felts, crepes, and muslins are used for draped hats. Linen, organdle, pique, and cotton come for. coolness. Black satin, striped ribbon, and *shirred chiñon Bre used with great effect. One delightful frilled enriwheel is made entire- of shirred chiffon, in a burnt
with sugar shade, worn matching stole edged with the same frill.
headdresses Brain;
будут
GENERAL LINE · THERE is a trend towards the assymetrical. Brime mostly dip towards the right side of the face, sometimes completely covering it. Large hats are of the cartwheel variety, and can be worn in town as well as at race meetings or garden parties. All hats are moulded closely to berets, head, Viola.
clock whether
or boaters. Brims have great dent of de-
pageantry of the Renaissance, trimming any
le-.
tall-wavy, scalloped, pointed, Rchoux gains her and clashes. Some havt double inspiration Bratly from
the and even treble brims, with
between. Catherine de Medict, and the
of the hats French court of that period, and shown were suitable for wear- Edwardian days of the square-
from the easy-going ing with long hair. In Paris,
many le crowned boater of the 1900's, their hair swathed to simulate women were wearing She uses rough chip straw In the short cut: others had gone light and dark shades, with
to the length of acquiring the elaborate use of velling. Some very intest cut, the "Napoleon." of her hals are cut triangularly, For this style the hair is eut Franco is world-famous for short as a man's, and the sides Its ribbons, and the French Rib brought forward
to the bon Syndiente shows a great checks. variety. A wide range colours introduced this xenson's new shades-copper, vermilion red, ultramarine and emerald,
Tropicl countries will wel- come the cotton plque hata, stitched and fallored, and near- ly always trimmed with a fluted, pleated frill. This frill is re- peated on matching gloves, add- inst to the cool clean пр-
and with a Greek key design decorating the asymmetricPerfume Gives You Glamour
neckline also made of non-tarnishing gilt braid.
Really pretty, really flattering, definitely on the glamour side of fashion, the dress is nevertheless a wash- tub proposition, and of such sensible and simple con- struction that the home irgner can press it perfectly. Every palm tree land wardrobe rates a cotton dinner dress, and this one is a happy choice.
Anne Edwards
PARIS.
ONE legend I'm out to
lay is that only million
aire black marketeers cat
well in Paris. My nostalgic descriptions of meals Inte there last week are always interrupted with: "Ah, but the poor can't afford to cat like that they don't get any mcat."
It by "e poor" is meant people who cannot afford more than as. for a restaurant meal, then this is what they can get: An enormous bowl of delicious onion or vegetable soup for 3d. A large thick pork chop, grilled steak, thick silees of beef or pork or shoulder of lamb in buttery brown gravy, for Jus1, over 25. Or ham, mushroom, or cheese omelette made with two fresh eggs for 2s.
Or they can. buy a nine-inclu roll of crisp white bread flap- ping with ham for is. A quarter bottle of red wine (enough for
they are treated
jess reverent-
much more interestingly. recipes for serving an egg
Here are five favourile French
COOK 1
spinach and diced mushrooms in a at dish. Make hollow, break egg into the hollow, dust with grated cheese. put in oven for five minutes.
LINE a flat dish. with purce potatoes hollowed in centro Brown under grill. Drop poached egg in hollow, cover with mushroom sauce.
BOIL egg five minutes, shell, and serve on fried bread with gravy.
CHOP and fry one rasher of incon. Spread in fire-proof dish, break in egg. Bake in oven,
POACHED-exg served on round of flaky pastry. Slice. of foic-pras on top. Cover with brown sauce.
SAY 'YES'
"YES"...
Covitety Faburgi
To renew your perfume during the day, there's a leak-proof applicator you can carry right in your handbag.
By HELEN FOLLETT
VERY woman loves perfume SWAYS to make you ser and wears it with a delight- two) costs Dd.
"It's far better ful reclus wat she is making The best comment on the for two to be happy than for herself glamorous. And so she' plentiful supplies of good. fresh three to be miserable."... is, because those who came in ment in Paris is in the window "'d like to buy you something
contact with her can't help be- of a snob "Engiali Grocery" in
really nice."
fog interested and realise thin she is a faxildious person. That of course, if she uses a soent that appeals to the emotions, as do all the deliente floretted odours.
"Drink the smartest part of the town. In up there's another bottle in the centre of the windoy the car." ..."Ah! But you're
Special." marked "Very
und different."
"Have you priced at Os. per pound, is n seen Parks in the spring?" slab of corned beef!
I just want to sit and and look at you."
PLEASE DON'T
1
WISHI SHE WOULDN'T ·
(a man tells me),
SAY she's a Communist-and
is,
If she is smart she will stick MY CHOICE
to the same bouquet. To leap FROM EACH of my four
from rose to gardenis to carnn- favourite dress designers I tion is to have a confusion of not know the names of even pick their star-the dress I'd most | aromas. Do you
know
that three people in the Politburo. like to see copied in a cheaper perfumes fight? Yes, they do. ARRIVE for, a date saying. edition. From Lafaurie-the Put different ones on the items "Gosh! What a party. I had last dragonfly raincoats made of of your wardrobe and you will night."
nylon chiffon shot with alx have a nondescript result that PUT through trunk calls from different colours,
like n
Пy's may not appent. As for com- -my flat.
wing. From Dior-cocktail | pounding one's own, that is not BE late on prinelple.
frocks of plain tie slik in deep { lo be considered, Perfume Jowel colours and black. Front making is a due ort. Fath-full, wool or linen coats
SAY "Ring me at home" and never be there.
SAY "I won't have a drink- 1'11, just have a sip out of yours."
RUMBA while I two-step.
ECC-VARIETY
or
..
with Aloped pyramid colinrs. Perfume should always be From Balmein-linen sults in sprayed, so gol yourself an white, champagne, pink, atomiser if you don't happen to black.
have
SAVES onc. It not only P.S. Will manufacturern copy- the precious liquid but restrains ndas have to long been scarce Ing these, please capy
the you from using it with too invinh Lin Britain
hand. Don't forget that necklines, too? It's time they them added a few more to the present little goes a long way. Spray
In limited choice of V-necks or
shoulders and arms your neck, France eggs are so plentiful that Foter Pan collars.
directly after your bath. The
that
Ühere are more
most people
even
now
10
boll them.
a
warm (lesh will cause the alcoholic content to evaporate, and only the dower essences will
remain..
contrasted
with
neutral and
pastel shades. Plaids, checks, and woven stripes, taffeta, grosgrain, and moire, nil played their parts in. trimming or even baby rebons which hung demurely in clusters, to widest double-faced satin which completely covered hung in deep folds crown and at the back, it was ribbon the way in Paris.
making hats. From
રી
10
TRIMMINGS RIGINAL and charming were
trimmings. G
Artificial flowers were in a minority. Rib- on topped the list, fruit came second. A saller hat was trim- ined with strawberries and their
blossoms. Another straw hat
sprouted corn on the cob, com- plete with its leaves. - Long chiffon scarves, draped jersey and estrich feathers were used. Evening headdresses, rapidly coming
into favour both de- in London and Paris, are corated with Jewelled motits, chiffon, and sweeping piumes.
back
To match the tartan coltons, rapidly becoming popular, Legroux has used plaid in off- the-face sailor hais. Rose The French hats were a joy for to sec. French milliners have
Valuis uses plaid wool
radiso
sports. Tarian ribbon decorates lust tone of thele artistry and
natural skill.
a side-dipping hat in straw.
A
hats Most popular colour for and
Bccessories, to carry you right through the spring and sum-
A
Given a plece of straw,
a wisp of veiling, and a bunch of ribbons, they produce
with an indefinable creation air-attle French hat!
A Designer With A Grievance
DESIGNER
lis
11
exaggerations
and ab.
with grievance is
exist, Arthur surdities, has ceased to
and has given way to a simpler Banks, one of London's in- and more studied line." dependent couturiers. He feels, with
some justice, that British fashion writers could do a great deal more
Victor Stiebel maintains that "fashion develops.in a steady Bowing line; there is never a moment of pause, and variations to boost a new British line. on an established theme will
He speaks with
eventually develop Into a thority, for as early as February, them 1948, he showed
Digby number
1
some au-
now
Morton stressed that of Empire line and Tube Look the discerning woman
realises dresses, which were commented
the extremes of fashion and on by comparatively few British eye-catching effects are quickly an fashion writers. And yet this mass-produced, and rapidly was a line new to British eyes.
dale, and told us "My collection Parls writers would have is, for these reasons, a restrain- seized upon this new line with ed one consisting mostly of day joy, and showed it to the world clothes, and because with pride. But, ns said in fashion that never bores is the tailored suit in its many varia- some quarters, British
writers are far too Paris-conscious. tions, there are a larger num- They feel Paris can do
ber of them than anything no wrong-nnd when one of their else." own
ure
the one
designers shows them CRYING FOR SANITY something new, they are appre- Peter Russell, famed for his hensive, usually a little sur-
superb Initoring, declared with prised, and seldom enthusiastic.
great gusto: "The world is cry- One Loudon writer in the dally
ing out for sanity, and I hope Don't pul perfume on a gor- press had sumelent foresight.
clothes
convey
that my ment that is not cleaned wh
Banks produced medium. when Arthur
When concentrating frequently. Put it on your skin his Empire Linc dresses, to rather than on your hair. Un- less the scalp is entirely free from the exudations of sweat and zeboccous glands, the effects may be unpleasant.
If you wear an
.
artineinl flower, put a drop of perfume on it. When you are going to tho dance, put a tiny bit, on hem of your skirti
A dainty Jittle woman should never use an oriental scent, but.
and belt to match the
speak of "A new London Line," on perfect detail, such as gloves,
handbag, but few others followed her
dress make it so foolproof that the verlest Sally Ann can't when the creating of a collec- possibly go a
a cracker, that is tion worthy of our great British tradition of good breeding takes overy tiny part of one's brain and there's no room for what call damned idiotic ambitious- ‚ness, like one seos in the aggres. sive and hideous collection of
example.
Magazines are accused of be- ing oply interested in a pretty rucktail dress, or a charming
p evening gown, to make up an article.
It this
state
of affairs 19 true and it would certainly appear so how can London ever expect to rival Paris, whose, now lines are publiclsed, encouraged, and vigorously defended against attack?
Blanca Mosca anys.of.hor col-
a.
villas!"
og overtrimmed suburban..
Hardy Amies stated with dis concerting frankness that "women's clothes should be Boxy,"
Perhaps
keep to illy of the valley, mimosa or violet. The distin- guished appearing woman,
POST-SHOW COMMENTS whose type borders on the
Post-Spring. show comments exotic, can get away with some
from designers: of the heavier products.
Don't overlock sachets. They section: "The distinction of are good buys, and every year house should be measured by the have greater lasting qualities. continuity and gradual evolution Tuck them in handkerchief, of iis designa, and not by abrupt
changes of line and detail," gloves and scarf boxes.
And for carrying
Matul, whose collection was completely pertums with you during the day, a leak- thought by many to be the best, evolution, of
sorved its thing gradual, not a series said: "Now, having proof applicator that fits in your purse is just the thing.
purpose, the New Look, with violent upheavals.
those remarks, straight from the designers themselves, will help to sellle In some feminine minds why the New Look was not entirely banished, or the Tube Look
accepted,
fashion is somo-
The
of
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