THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28, 1948.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Robb AND Anne Edwards SORT OUT THE PARIS CONFLICT
ALL-IN... anything goes-short or
long, wide or narrow, padded or round
ARIS has not made up its mind whether the New Look will last. The result is a confilet between the New Look and the Tube Look, giving a variety of styles which put hardly anything out of date. These are the first detailed' sketches permitted since the Paris collections were exhibited. They show short jackets, long jackets, wide skirts, narrow skirts, padded shoulders, round shoulders-all are fashionable. So this is to be an ALL-IN year for dress.
Curved to fit your lips
Exciting new idea,
Once over, gives you a sharp, clean lip outline every time. There is no
colours. other like it. Special new formula-smooth as satin-longer wearing. Metal case. Six original
SOLITAIR
NAN
Union Bldg.
fashion point
LIPSTICK
Obtainable at Leading Stores
Sole Agents:
KANG COMPANY
Tals: 22118-24944
GOLF SHOES
Made by Lotus" styled and worn by the leading golfers. Leather soles with angle spikes
or with red rubber grooved soles.
MACKINTOSH'S JTD
Alexandra Building
SHAMPO
Wilton's
Hiddlest
Des Voeux Road.
AIR CONDITIONED STONE
for your comfort
ALL STAR
Beginning with coats....
*ONE: Square box. Jacket, deep- cuffed and double- breasted, in lime wool, over the new black tube skiri.
TWO: Multi-. coloured travelling ruz tweed cont Very high velvet collar. wide gath- ered cuff, double- breasted with mix high buttons.
* THREE: After- noon dress with black velvet top. double cured sleeva, wide balt, over double-tiered
pleated skirt.
Afternoon. dressos...
★ FOUR: This year's interpreta- tion of last year's look. The skirt -wider and atifTer-double-pointed turn-back cuff on light sleeve. panther muff.
* FIVE: Draped stim line evening frock of midnight Blue crepe, under billowing cape in cyclamen-pink satin.
They Went Foot-loose
And
#
Fancy-free
LONDON,
of bowildering serles technical terms, music from running two planos, and a commentary, six charming designs in models exhibited new Hong Kong.
footwear at Grosvenor House, Park Lane London's West End show place for fashion.
Shoes undergone some rovn-
have lutionary changes during the last Lew years, and this exhibit showed the general public for the first time, the full extent of these changes.
drene
АНТИЯ
SHAMPOO
MAKE & KEEP YOUR HAIR LOVELY WITH DRENE BHAMPOO,
THE FILM STARS USE IT WHY DON'T YOU?
Obtainable at the leading
Chemists and Stores..
Sale Agents:.
HUMPHREYS, BOYLE & CO., LTD.
Dina Houso
Tel. 22810
by JOAN ERSKINE
a very
new
We shall probably sec them strapped, buttoned, and zipped.
interesting and it will be
to sec enthusiasm with what degree of they are received.
Very
ery gratifying to those suffering the British climate were the designs for winter wear. The famous Glas- tonbury has donned look. One pair of boots in sunny yellow ruff-glove in hard wearing form of suede) had thick soles, fur lining, and zipped to just They were made below the knee. to it over almost any size shoe, and of the flying were reminiscent boots we saw worn here to during the war. over-
Exhibitions have been held a nually, but the tendency in previous years has been towards caution. The blame was not entirely the de- algners'. Bupplies of leather were dlincult, and deliveries from acas were somewhat erratic.
Casual sandal in belke flax canvas
Now leathers. and suede have be come more plentiful, and more top- grade calf is on the market. With the return of good materials, de- signers have been able to
experi- ment,
For no good reason I had always supposed white shoes a popular buy overseas. However, one of the re- presentatives of a leading shoo manufacturing firm who exporta lo parts of the world, rapidly dis- illusioned me. He picked up an Incredibly dainty evening shoe In
all
fine black suede with gold thread
cropo
webby lines. Next, various sections are dipped Into brilliant dyes and when these. also are dry, all the cotton is washed by very hot water, which removes the wax. The result startling is a veined design of beauty).
CHINA has a 'hand in fashion, too. Evening coats are definitely get- ting their inspiration from the Chinese Moixiarin, and many well-known society women are wearing genuine Mandarin coats brought back from China. Or they are being translated into their modern setting by using satins heavily embroidered rich much
with jewels, and keeping closely to the traditional Bine, us illustrated below.
A Little Less Bulk BOOTEE type shoes, for the woman who prefers a little less bulk, were shown in a variety of styles. Some 'were very low cut at the sides and high pixie-polnted at the back. A wedge heel casual in suede; for town and calf for country wear, showed the new open-closed toe with the How
Very
pixic popular
ap-
the
pearance.
But turning from winter to warm weather styles, the greatest approval was reserved for the pay casual walking and play shoes, Calf walking shoes, of excellent quality, were often welted, had novel ring and cord fastenings, and featured saddle-stitching. Some of the most of сал-
attractive play-shoes were with soft
vas and leather, lined natural suede.
The use of gold, kid for the strups and wedge heels guve one black casual suede shoe an almost bizarre appearance, but added considerably to its attraction. There is possibly an American influence here. For quite some time Americans huve been coupling casual clothes with shoes in complete gold kid. After the initial shock has worn off, the effect is very pleasant. ·
In
Hidden Snags BUT there were hidden snags Jacing right from toe to ankle.
many of the designs, Double, treble "Black" shoes are in great do- and quadruple straps, each with mand," he told me. "We and well- separate buckle, look almost out of mado black shoes are one of our this world. But how many women best exports.
buckles particularly to Aus- have time to adjust four tralia." He showed me another each time they put on a pair of. black suede shoe with a symmetri- shoes? cal throat, decorated with bands of fine leather. "White shoes we do, of course, export," he continued, "but generally speaking, the price is too high, and they remain a Juxury shoe."
Summing up the whole show would say the new points these
pro
1. Sophistication for playtime, 2, Extremely low vamps, almost show- ing the toes. 3. A very high line wear with the longer skirt. 4. Strap- the back of the heel, ping at
Roman apparently Inspired by the sundul. 6. And strapping all the way up to the ankle, inspired it would seem by the sane old Scottish gillie.
New Look In Shoes W WITH the upheaval in fashion that has gone on during the past year or so, it was inevitable that sooner or later shoes would follow sult. So it would be as well to ignore one or two of the more fantastic models exhibited. As time goes on, the freshing. New Look In shoes will form happy compromise between the ex- traordinary and the commonplace,
a
All very contradictory, but re-
hear a famous French coulourler
is gaining inspiration from the native costumes of Indo-China, and is using vivid batiks for his sum- nier collection. (BATIKS: Procces very involved. Design is formed by dipping lengths of cotton into
Women are not really going to like some of the now high-fronted nhoes. They may wear them, but that is beside the point. And I doubt if many will even wear an astonishing pair of evening bootcen wax and hanging it up to dry, so
in black lace, niting enugly round the ankle. How sweet! With logs like a gazelle it might be possible to get away with this, but the focal point of interest. In a feminine leg is usually the ankle, and this fascinat- ing little number will do nothing
to flatter a normal ankle or enhance the slender grace of a beautiful one. In its favour it can certainly bo Baid that it draws attention, to the foot.
I hear wo are.to expect variations of the bdolbe to suit all occasions, from cock- toils in thð, ́ morning. to dinner at night,
Now open-closed toe, wedzo hoof CAMUR! Kumfces:
hot
that a film is formed. Then it is crushed in the hands until the wax breaks into thousands of Uny cob
★ SEX: Empirą ling evening dress, draped pink chiffon top over cinnamon wool skirt. Batin striped scarf in contrasting colours.
✰★ BEVEN: High-but-- toned Empire line cost in stone wool; trimmed Limitation Persian lamb.
★ EIGHT: Black satin instop - length
evening dress. Salin brassiero top and draped fantail In tartan. Long cloves nad bolero.
How To Transform The
'Little Black Dress'
Towadays a
10 be well dressed
woman has to rely more than ever
*
on
by SUSAN
DEACON
"
could be worn alter- natively
as 黢 flared
waist peplum.
This is an
Iden
which
could easily be copied.
buy
to
Catra material sahen having a dress made, renovation is made caster. It. can be draped over a straight
her ingenuity rather than her if it is possible purse... Advice on how to remodel pre-New Look clothes was at first upt 10 be given on the Mrs Beeton es of "Take a strip of flat fur-pro- ferably mink......
But
sadly we learn, after trying in voin to lengthen an almost non- existent hem, that such attempts ore seldom satisfactory, and, as a result, most women these
doys have bought al least one New Look dress. They are now, more than ever, seek- ing new ways of making the "Little Black Dress" suitable for
any different occasions.
There are wonderful opportunities for the imaginative_with finir for twisting a scarf, adding 器
skirt into a hip swathe, finishing at the back in a small bustle or, fall tunte skirt can oven newer,
be made.
worn 18ins, shorter than the skirt of the dress, it could hang and STIFF
faster from the waist.
an
WHITE LACE POCKETS, Auted to emphasise the hip line of the black dress, are also easy and practical alteration. A tangerine silk cuff bordering
low square neckline is also attrac- liven sudden sharp spinat of colour on black is fresh and gay.
a
Jacket, placing a brooch, or choos- FULL TRIMMINGS are smart this
ing a hat,
DEVIVAL
#
of the SHOULDER immense possibi-
lilies. One leading fashion house recently showed how a detachable capelet
LONG-HAIRED FELTS
Hugh Beresford, whose "Town and-Country" hela
RTO MASS- produced but hand-fintslied, has brought out a new long-haired millinery Talk mado from mara- bou and goose down which ha elis "Meläcino."
Top left? double-brimmed clochie with creamy brown fea ther, mount, thia vell, accentua ting the pointed line of the brim. Centre: another cloche showing the sideways line, with brim
the brow, #wept down across softly gathered in becoming folds and · «. lavender plume Contrasting with blue felt, Dot- toon left: deep blue smonik felt, also,le one side, with speckled: phenrunt: feather trim,
sensor.
Although few women have the odd "strip of mink" ly- · ing around, narrow fur, such as moleskin, sable, or benver concy can be bought inexpensively. Bordering the pocket of a pinin dress, edging a peplum or trim- ming the edge of n three-quarter length sleeve, fur adds to touch of luxury to the most ordinary dress.
✩
THERE are ideas, too, which do
not even need sowing. Tuck three or four gally coloured
JIANDKERCHIEFS
the
from
pocket of a black dress. Faston u the lace-edged handkerchief to lapel of n shirt-waisted dress with a pair of peart hat-pins. But you get the elegance-the "well- dresscd look-In the way the adaptation is carried out-and the confidence
will which
clothes are worn.
Obviously, alterations must
your
be
studied to suit each type and shupe, and also the occasion.
#
A HUG-ME-TIGHT Jacket, or a
brief bolero, on an ample figure is pure fancy dress. One of the NEW BOX JACKETS
would be kinder; their profective- lines are not their only asset. |Again; If your midriff is persistent- ly bulgy, do not renovate your dress with a wide belt obviously made to emphasise a small waist- line.
The
tho
The emphasis will certainly be there
but so will the bulge. Tall women can get away with
mast things. For them swathed hip or waistline, or Bared peplum, is perfect. They should avoid, at all costs, belt- less styles which give them à rod- We appearance.
You VOUR PLAIN DRESS develops a party mood with a pretty belt. [At a recent collection a classic black wool dress was telted with a wide to Tela band gathered into a large sliver buckle; a six-inch fringe hung from the ends of the. belt...
can
Swathed tulle or ring velvet can
also be used as effectively. Long gloves. In a vivid colour, are
dramatic and smartand
But alliér accessories should remain black, unless of course, you are fortunate in possessing nylona to
matelal
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