1948-04-03 — Page 6

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&

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TWO

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by

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EVERY SATURDAY

GRATH, SATURDAY, APRIL 8, 1948.

Dress spies beat Paris

AMERICA

DICTATES

TO THE FASHION

DICTATORS

D

WOMANSENSE

'security'

BY ANNE EDWARDS

new

dress-

RESS styles now showing special translation of Gres's in Parla under a pledge of spring cloak-price 135 dollars.

How is it that the elaborately Aecrecy were being sold

Huarded designs of the Faris weeks ago to women in makers are common property in New America. FOR EXAMPLE: York before they have been seen in

The hooded cloak in the photo- Parlat graph below was one of the "secret"

above, In the example models shown in Paris for the first business arrangements were made, time by Gres, February 7. But on but in other cases "leakages" of January 20-nineteen days earlier information are encouraged and paid the New York Times printed an for advertisement including this photo- graph, It was described as: A

IT'S SECRET-onуs Porle 135 DOLLARS-ɛɛya America

special

FULL-PAGE FEATURE

HEADLINES

Paris Puts On Her Spring Hat

Dolly Vardens

And Boaters

Are Back Again

T

PARIS.

THE. PARIS millinera have made up their minds about your spring hat and they are not

cagey about The spreading dressmakers are more secretive.

the

nows.

They forbid publication of what we will soon sco until six weeks after the dress shows. оп

This is one result of the long- range dictatorship that the American fashion industry In exercising Paris.

ORGANISATION

"Midinettes" who work in the best Paris houses smaggle out the paper patterns from which the dresses are eut, to sell to the highest bidder,

Thirty well-known black market of and hundreds copying firms smaller firms in Paris work with police them. In a recent rald the found 50 sketches. In one firm's Bles of secret models designed by famous houses ilke Dlor, the New Look man.

While we are waiting, the leading Paris hat designers are displaying their collections (30 to 40 models cach-price £15 apiece at the new rate) to the international squad of fashion buyers and reporters now in Paris.

One hat wan embroidered in real diamonds. At first sight it is dificult for the British contingent to see what place this and similar fantastic and frivolous creations have in the world today.

But it is apparently clear to the Parls milliners themselves. Their Though the private, firms are well-hats, they believe, have a much more solemn purpose than earning dollars known, and the penalties for proven

and pounds. copying range from 50,000 francs lo 3,000,000-francs, the fashion-black- marketeers have a get-out. They escape the penalty if they can prove that they have altered one detall.

A mass produced pattern of A model stolen from one of the best houses fetches many hundreds francs. Most of them go to America be- cause the black marketeers prefer dollars.

INCENTIVE

on

I believe many Paris fashion de- signers now concentrate solely creating what they think the women of America want to wear next. That is why Parle leadership means everything to the Americans prae- tically nothing to the British,_and even less to the French.

There is another more subtle re- sult of the power_of_dollars to lo fluence fashion.

AC-

American firms anxious to promote some special fabric or fashion cessory send their representatives to collections. Paris, long before the

"We They promise the designera: will Buy every model in which our; product. appears."

So the American fashion Industry thrives complete with a Parls label which looks just like the real thing.

DOLLY VARDEN | BONNET in palo NAPOLEON hat bat, turned up at pink Angora wool, in gror folt back, down In has halt a cavern-one cheek front, In Leghorn crown' and a brim completely. Trim- viraw with bunets in front only, Ties | ning s along with velvet cords. of cherries..

ostrich feather.

+

følt

Ba

BLACK STRAW | SILK CIHFFON|RED TIE SILKŢE MERALD plaited to look || printed with large with small white GREEN, The Ince. Trim- roses. Trimming spots

This bonter, glog. li two in three roses cui version is trimmed anomones in Mercury wingu fù aut from the with white gooue front, black Yell

black velvet. 1 material.

feathers. round the face, "What," ask: the publicity blurb strate the four frenda: we predict af, one of them, "can be more will be worn this spring by English heartening to a world in crisis than women. a face vell all tumbing over with Already models of these four have rosca?" I repeat: What?

been heavily bought by British Forgetting the extreme fashions buyers for mass production at home. though, there are, as always, trends Remember the styles: (1) boaters;

world-wide (2) Dolly Vardens; (3) "half hot fashions, Robb has crown" bonnets: here which will have a effect on

demon- drawn seven hats which

berels,

(4). Napoleon

... And London Unveils Some-

Straws, Stripes

And Sophistication

At Clarkdges recently more than 1.000 women made up one of the biggest-ever audiences at a West End hat show.

Here are two that made talk- ̄ingTM"points, both by Erik,‚ ̄ ̄ ̄ ̄ of* Brook-street. Right: white straw with shoulder-witte -double-fold bows of deep purple; below: a burnt siraw beehive bonnet. "trimmed with 'black velvet.

ܕ܂

1000 WOMEN

LOOKED, TALKED

THESE HATS EARN DOLLARS

LANCÔME

PARIS

PERFUMES COSME

COSMETICS

LOTIONS and COLOGNES

THE SINCERE CO., LTD. EXTEND INVITATION TO

SCHOOL HANDICRAFT EXHIBITION

APRIL SECOND

TO

APRIL SIXTH

10, A.M.—6 P.M.

ON THEIR SECOND FLOOR

ADMISSION FREE

The answer's a bustle

✪ - PATRICIA LENNARD lifts a curtain

on the risks and rivalries behind

the scenes of the big dress shows.

7

the cou. Near

tron

from

turier shows which have few days in Paris or returns just been held in London and an autumn trip to the United States or Canada, to sniff a breath of allen. Paris there lies a tale of hard, competitive. air. fast and highly competitive work in which showmanship For along the line, during the six-

fashion cycle, from monthly

iny and dress-making skill are join- wholesaler to big International cau- ed to bring in the cash cus- turier, runs the same set of guess- tomers.

work questions: "What will women wear next season? Will my clothes Mr. X is one of our London cou- establish a new fashion? Or will turiers, with a house somewhere in they at least be in line with popular the area bounded by Grosvenor fashion? Can I be truly, creativo street, Park-lane, Plecadilly and and still earn my bread and butter?" Bond-street. He must show his col-

Icction before the Paris shows begin

Immediately after Christmas, the

so that foreign buyers and clients couturier must decide what is to bo en roule to Paris may inc

his the general line for the season: is it, clothes ready.

for example, to be ultra-feminine or will there be a revulsion against it? show For this season he decides on the January hour-glass silhouette, bustles, flowing skirts and draped Jersey dresses. Ho fixes on a collection of 30 models.

So he plans to have his during the last week in

STILLMAN'S

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FOR CLEAR' SKIN Stillman's Freckle Cream containi conalo ingredients which act as a temporary "black-out" against the formation of pigment. Next it fivors the retention of fat globe. ules in the skin, which helps to amooth out lines and creepiness. It's exay to use just smooth on

at night before retiring and let it work while you sleep. After using just one regular sized jar you will find your complexionso improved that you will need no urging to continue using Stilliman's. Freckle Cresi

After choosing materials ho makes up the "tolica." These are facsimiles of the clothes made in a cheap, flimsy material that can be fitted ogain and again on models until he is satisfied with the design.

BIG STAFF

He has 30 employees: talloring staff includes one cutter filter, five tailoring hands and two apprentices.

Dressmaking staff comprises one culter Atter, called the "premiere,"

10 dressmaking hands, and. 11 ap- prentices. He also employs three mannequins, two secretary- vendeuse-a receptionists, and a saleswoman. (Some cauturlers have much larger staff, according to the size of their clientele),

Over the four to five weeka

taken to prepare a collection he pays out £1,000 in, wages. Materials account |for £480 and overheads like rent, etc., £250; that is, £1,700 in all Model girls need about five. Attings per dress, and each gets a £12 for her part in the show,

The collection is shown first of all to

the

Press. The show. lasts about an hour, models being allowed two and a half minutes for each change, Then come two weeks of daily show- Inge to the buyers and, privato ellents the cash customers.

There is a 50 percent purchase tax on pure silk garments and additional 33.1/3

jon, wool and other materials, From the couturier I am describing the starting price of a dress is from ||£45,; coats - from £60-suits from £51 and evening dresses from £73 -plus tax.

SMARTEST FASHION

London-made hats are on sale New York's Fifth-avenue next month at prices between £10 and £14 15s. Hera aro two of the 1,500 models Ollo Lucas has sent.

which

"NEW SHOE” IS SIMPLE AND BRIGHTLY COLOURED

BY VIRGINIA STAFFORD (United Press Staff Correspondent)

NEW YORK.

con be seen in numerous store win- woman WHILE shoes muy appear to dows, they have yet to be adopted by

the average style-conscious bo an almost invariable in New York. Shades of hose, fol- factor in Milady's wardrobe, lowing the trend set last spring, tend there is a movement afoot to the dark brown and black, and the among designers to re-style only unusual colour which seems in existing models into fitting any way popular is navy nylons, worn usually for evening wear with companions for the springtime shoes of the same shade.

The French Heel. that version of. silhouette.

Vincent de Liso, American shoe the spike heel which features a con-- designer working with Bonwit cave along the outer edge, has been displayed consistently in Fifth Teller,

д Fifth

atore, Avenue

Avenue stores but has not been produced the type of shoe

go with the adopted by Gotham women on the maintains wil longer and fuller sisirt. His theory Whole. I..Miller, metropolitan shoc designer, has produced a black satin In that since today's mode reveals BG opera pump with the french heel for

hod

Bo

little of the leg. foot-wear must

made as simply as possible, yet with formal wear. This has been Imagination to keep the foot bouyant also in navy blue satin. and youthful. His recent showing

featured in particular platform

soles, pumps with short vamps,

and

Tone Variation

a variety of applications of the ankle who describes strap.

Platform Sola

mado

Andrew Gelier, New York stylist The his shoes s Tulk of Parls translated by Geller". has produced a new long variation which will be watched with In- "high pitch De Lise's styling of the platform terest. Calling it the

ho sole turned out a shoe which was patent with soft spoken suede," streamlined in spite of its apparent has combined shiny block patent bulk, and is heralded as Atting leather toes with subdued grey suede companion to the flaring skirt. insteps and heels, in both pumps and

Following what la belloved to have sandal style. been a precedent set by Parisian Flat-heeled shoes which have made designers, for some time, shoes, have their debut within the past five years appeared in the United States in and are designed both for comfort brighter hues, not only the traditional and the Tal Gal who has difficulty brown, black and navy blue. And keeping her shoulders on par with the list of potential colours seems her

her best beau, retain their popula rapidly expanding, for current ad- rity for the coming spring, it spite vertisements rend similar to the of rumours to

contrary,

daytime flower seed catalogues; available in ballet slipper adapted for blue, green, red, fuschia and chama- wear by introduction of the hard sole and suggestion of a heel, is well.

coming season. Coloured nylon hose has been pro- primed for Eldo

duced in revolutionary shades, de- Variations on the theme are evident algned to molt in with the wearer's with the use of the ankle strap colour ensemble. While these stock- which lends a not indelicato air to ings of pink, yellow and powder bluo'a flat shoe.

#10

It was faken in London early this month--the smartest fashion picture this sensori. It is a good example of how makers striving to give maximum valuo to overcome resistance to celllng price outils.

Seven new fashion features are Included: 1. Boater.

trimmings. 3. Neck bow. 4. Fluted contrast. Striped jacket back. 0. Pencil skirt. 7. Ontalze buttons.

man.

the

the

Tho