WHENEVERYDAY LIFRES
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH. SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 1947.
RUSSIAN INSTALMENT FOUR
Housing and clothes in
E
present-day
VERYBODY in
21
волю
Shuria
Russia
for
Russia
Like most people, the Russians are It requires only more economle;
inconservative in their notions of what for them to. vio seems to be able to get elbow-room
think enough warm clothes to elegance with our own, young ladles, is suitable attire, and they
of our clolites Very strange. After all, good taste in clothes in For instance, a women wearing slacks wear in winter.
and in the town creates almost a pubile time mainly question of I have known in wartime of money. The Russian gich are kern disturbance, people who came perilously near to learn, and, if their taste lu unsure,
are unknown except to being left without a warm funt is mainly from lack of practice children, The sight of British troops in the desert up to the rank of the cont or winter footwear, but
There are private dressmakers in then General Montgomery wearing somehow the problem always toscow and various State dress-shorts on the flims always brought seemed to be solved before the ranking establishments. But isolation the house down. cold weather wet in.
from the West has probably had a The cheapest form of winter wear worse effect on this branch of cul- for men and women alike lo a dark-ture than on any other.
of! coloured, short overcont inade wadded cation wool. This is warm and light, but ugly.
It gets wet easily, but this does not matter much, because as room as winter sets in properly there is a perpetual hard frost and no rain.
Poorer Russlans wear the tradi tional felt boots, which are very warm and comfortable once you get accustomed to them, but do not keep out the wet when the thaw sets in.
They do not wear sorks with these, but wrap their feet round with rags, which they dispose very cleverly.
The pourer women wear showls on their heads and the men wadded cupa, with Raps to come down over the car.
But anyone who can afford it Ilkes to have a sheepskin or fur cont and a fur hat. These often get grubby, and they take up a great deal of Dut extra space in crowded trains.
when there is enough good fur to go round, the streets of Muscow In winter will present a gay spectacle.
Once workers in the towns do not wear felt boot, but ardinary shoes with goloshes. These keep one warto and make it easier not to slip on the
KNOW,
IN
Overcrowding
is neute overcrowding.
There are manicure shops in all the cities of Soviet Russia there centres, and the "parlkmacher," or hairdresser, plays as great a part in feminine life in Russia as hero. But the standard of taste is deplorable. I never could take with equanimity the uncared-for appearance of the Russian girls' hair, but on returning to my own country I find that the coiffures of 1930 have become sadly unkempt in 1940.
Conditions, of course, differ great- ly from place to place. The extreme case was in some of the Ural towns, where at times during the war people had to sleep as tight as they could be packed. This was part of the price paid by the Soviet people fur the successful evacuation of factories,
POCKET CARTOON
"Where's
the bedmat Menty promised nie?i
Like all people just emerging from poverty, the Russians love solidly, built furniture and elaborate solid" objects, such as bruss Inkstands.
Their chairs'arg about as comfor- table as our 17th-century chairs. There has been good furniture in Russia. and une atill rees in em- Unsales and hotels furniture made of Karelim birch wood in the Empire GZNEJ ZVRATNEI VOUQUETZBAVIJE style, but much of the good old furniture has found its way into
henting stoves.
Most of the beautifully embroi- dered towels and cloths which used to be common in well-to-do houses
have been sold in order to buy extra food. The beautiful curtains have been cut up for clothes.
Cooking was a major wartime pro- A great deal blem, and still is. of cooking is done on electric hot- During the pintes called "plikas." war it was literal to use electricity for cooking or heating, and there their was supposed to be a strict r
rationing of electricity. But I never heard of anyone who was for long pre- Moscow has always attracted po-vented from using his plitka for I am told the trouble is that, for pulation because it is the capital. necessary cooking, though whole are blocks of flats were sometimes cut all their visits to the hair and housing conditions there dresser.
It is dificult for off for weeks if they used too much the Russian Cirts never very congested. brush their hair. They believe that new arrivals to get any accommoda- electricity.
tion at all. If they did it would fall out.
JOHN LAWRENCE-
Former Press Attache of the British Embassy in Moscow, lived in Russia throughout the war years. These articles showing life in Russia to-day are selec- tions from his forthcoming book. The fifth and final in- stalment-on art, music, theatre and sport in the Soviet Union-will appear in the Telegraph next Saturday.
Russian "perms" are said to be drastic. There are no regular yearly fashions in hair styles any more than clothes. I had not there are In The babies are always tightly realised how much sur aesthetic life swaddled-necessary in a climate owed to the small group who keep where kicking off coverings mightyearly fashions in line.
Rugian girls make up and use It is amusing to see babies carried lipstick. They are particular about around in the streets. They are put shades, but it is fur from kissproof. on a small elderd wh, one corner Kay Oakman told me: being folded up over their feet, the other lying behind the head.
result in fatal chills.
The
The mojorly of families live in There are some good one room.
not nearly modern buildings, but enough yet.
Although many people live in very Is remarkable sordid conditions, it how clean and self-respecting most of them emerge.
Very often one finds a block of ftats constructed on the basis of three or four rooms with bathroom and kitchen to a family.
wood
Gos was always an uncertain starier during the war, and was very expensive the open market, so that it would sometimes have been impossible to cook at all if people, had not had their plitkas in the corner of the room.
Sometimes the gas pressure was jonly suflelent for cooking in the small hours of the morning, and the women would stay up to cook a hot ment in the middle of the night
A
Servants
LL well-to-do Russians have some
domestic help, and It is much easier to find a servant in Moscow than it is in London. The ware is not high, but the employer has to ferd his servants and clothe them--or, at
help uny rate, clothing.
have
them
with out
A Pressing Hongkong
Problem
-by **Candidus”
THE
E unrestricted entry into the Colony of minsses of people who have no guarantee of either work or housing and, in thousands of cases, without the means to provide housing for themselves, presents a problem of major importance.
It is not a new problem, because shortly before World War II, Govern- ment gave its attention to the matter, and sent a PWD officer to London to study town planning. An interesting discovery was made at that time, when it was established that Hong- kong possessed the most densely populated district in the British Em- pire. This was a square mile or so nt Hunghom, and the #gures show- tag, the number of persons per square mile were calculated on the last census available at that time.
A
census to-day would provide staggering figures.
Publle health is menaced, and the
when
The ordinary type of servant is people responsible for the Colony's maid of-all-work in the literal water supply must experience quite sense of the ward. She cooks, shops, n few sleepless nights. It is not celeans, darns and does your laundry, difficult to visualise what would hap- Well-to-do people with children pen in the event of a drought such
a "nyanya"the t was experienced in 1929. generally word requires no translation. Lite water had to be brought to the a cook, it is easier to find a nyanya Colony in ships. Privacy is thus out of the ques- in Moscow than in London, but you tion, but it does not seem to behave to feed and clothe her just
Most people get on well like any other servant. missed. enough together on a give-and-take in basis, although there always scoms to be one black sheep who leaves the kitchen dirty and stores puta
Cosmetics are in very short supply rest of the ciderdown is then rolled jand of very poor quality, Face
In present circumstances, how tightly round the baby and secured powder s pale. thick and cheap. by a string wound round this cocoon Lipsticks are rarely obtainable and ever, a separate family get shoved that neveral most unsatisfactory in quality. The Inte each room, and finishing round the neck.
well families have to share the kitchen theatrical
people
quite Gre
the und bathroom. supplied with cosinetics, but urdinary Russian girl is not.
Hence the passion for nail varnish, which, for some reason, was Rusalon teactiers easily available.
ask for payment ometimes cosmetics instead of money.
Sometimes a ribbon is tied round the neck and the wh le outfit finished off with a large bow tied under the baby's chin. But the result is to make the baby completely Immobile. Only its eyes can nove, and these roll wildly round as the child lies in its mother's arms,
in
Foreigners who have babies Moscow and secure n Russian nurse have
Fashion Show
lo defer to this custorn ol swaddling a child. One Australian TN 1945 the first fashion show since member of the foreign colony who the beginning of the war was had gone visiting with his wife and held in Moscow. This is how Kay child was seen to be carrying the Onkman described it: baby upside down. He was carry. ing the roll which contained his off-
The show was to be an exhibition
spring-conveniently under his arm of models designed for subsequent
toes in the bath.
In one instance a family insisted on keeping a cock and her in the kitchen to the great annoyance of the other inhabitants of that flat.
Living In Style
VIERE_is_no_uniform standard of
are
The question of sanitation creates a feeling of uneasiness when it is Russians remembered that publie latrines for The relations, between
servants and their
generally the masses are few and far between. more friendly and informal than in (Incidentally, I have it on good au- pre-war Britain, but you do meet people who adopt a tone of social thority that public latrines are to be superiority in public-though I doubt provided for the few people who like
a stroll or plenie on the Peak!) whether they would dare to do so with their own servants.
Russians ke to keep their houses very warm in winter, but during the war fuel was short.
I have never seeni gas used for heating Electricity, too, is inalily“
and did not notice which way up it mass-proluction. Ench-republic! housing. At the top of the scale used for light and cooking.
was.
the Soviet Union had been invited
to submit garments for competition. of living there are people like the The most popular models were then late Alexis Tolstoy, the most famous to be displayed by mannequins at a author of his day. He drew royalties further showing.
from his books and plays, and had a very handsome income.
Ten Years Younger KNOWING their climate, Russians The garments submitted varied,
spring is well advanced. Then one
boots to no hats, bright cotton dresses and no stockings.
Every woman looks ten years younger, and the children plek the Arst Bowers and weave them into garlands in their hair.
place of
If the unrestricted entry of all and sundry, destitutes and out of works, is not soon controlled, an insuperable problem-if It is not already so—will face the authorities...
war when coal was cut of Was THE controversial question of a
The main source of heating in the
wood, with was not antisfactory for use in most of the central heating systems.
harbour Lunnel has again been raised, although why it should be keep their warm wraps on till often strikingly, according to their The taxation such a person pays
opposed in certain quarters is some- what surprising. There can be no Wood supplies were supposed to origin. The inost up-to- is much lower than our surtax, and { day, just as the trees come out, there dute, to our eyes, came from the to the Russian it does not seem odd be secured through the "labour denying that a tunnel would provide is a wonderful change from fur hats Baltic
50. sent that this should
It is felt front." This was a system of con- republics. Leningrad
a public service which no other and shawls, wedded coals and felt some very smart styles, but as they that he has corned his money by scription by which the girls wern
means of communication can. Once ornate and public service, and most people see sent off during the summer for woric built, even the layman may assume were usually rather heavily embroidered-recalling the no reason why the State should take in timber camp,
that maintenance would not be great. splendour of St. Petersburg-they it away from him in taxation.
The conditions were unsuitable for *moss pro-
hard, but while it would be a boon to the thou- Alexis Tolstoy had a town house on the whole healthy, and the pres-sands who dully cross the harbour to were duction.
and a country house, with good fur-pective victims reacted
to it very niture and pictures, and could enter- much the way British girls reacted and from their work. it would carry to the prospect of being directed in- | vehicles, curgo, people, telephone tain throughout the war.
to munition factories,
Unes, water maine, gos, electricity; allow rapid transportation of such services as police and Are brigade, und prove of incalculable value in times of strikes or other emergencies.. Everything Is in favour of the pro- posal. I believe a plan exists, but if it has been mislald during the war, another should be prepared.
their trousers,
lost.
Shoes are of poor quality and hard materials and very voluminous.
even 50W one or two yushmaks
it wears out.
among them.
the
Children's clothes bad been much
He always had the best food and
have
Providing the villages with
ser-
As needed as your telephone
AND JUST AS HANDY
Rock-a-File
PATENTS APPLIED SOM
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open-justwithalickofafinger.
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It is unlike any other file you can get, ia that the compárt-
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CENTENARY OF HAKLUYT
SOCIETY
It was easy to see when particular In the summer many men wear designers had managed to see recent a colinrless cotton shirt, dark trou-coples of such magazines sa Vogue and Harper's. Extravagant fashions sers and canvas shoes without socks, just reported from Paris had been drink. Ife had a car with a chout-
In The Country Often they,om the shirt and wear copied, but rather timidly, so that feur, and at his country house, or just a sleeveles cotton vest with their dashing smartness had been dacha, he had a large garden and a
gardener.
THE
THE housing situation in the Better-off men, if they are not in
Before his death he was planning people in the Soviet Union still live country-and, remember, most uniform, went white linen sults. Designs submitted by the Eastero The traditional Russian embroidered republics showed a dresa sanse sulted to extend bis garden down a steep on the land-fe much easier than in
Ils shirt is rare in Moscow, but fairly to a distinctive climate and different bank to an attractive brook.
the towns. customs. common in the provinces.
two-storeyed They were mostly of thin country house was a
Iwooden building with several bed-
rooms, ample reception rooms and vices and amenities is an acute pra- to get. Under the Lurth Five-Year
ni conveniences.
It is natural that companies who Plan it la intended to produce by
blem, but the people know how to oporate ferries and other cross-har- 1950 "rather more than", one pair The most successful, to my mind, well in
Other well-known writers lived make their own houses.
bour services should object, but vented of footwear every year and three were the dresses designed on tradi
quieter way throughout the
In the Ukraine, and generally interests should not be considered. pairs of stockings
or socks a year for tional Russiau lines, but modified wac. A typical leading writer would south of the forest belt, there in Objections should be consider. each member of the population.
a three-roomed flat in Moscow according to modern ideas. Tho Russian women are as intercated pinafore frock, a short version of the furniture and a "dacha," or country
a shortage of timber, and the houses with rather heavy, old-fashioned
ed in the light of their origins. The are built of whitewashed mud. in their
*ch are - necessary only opinions Western dress worn by Russian women for appearance DS wemen, but the material means have centuries, looked very pretty with age, at Feredelkino, where the In the norit and centre timber are those from.gineers qualifted to been lacking. Indeed, there is no simple, tay embroidery
Union of Soviet Writers has a resi-is as common as water, and Russian outline such a scheme. The cost is definite standard of fashion, anti straps..
dential estate on which writers skill with the axe is the key to can have their country cottages.
os' the people wear what they have unt
housemaking-and to much besides. of secondary importance
money" required could easily be rala- These dochas are well bullt. Colour and fanetfulness are the influenced by American styles, and
The right to acquire private pro-led by a public loan. It is indeed. comfortable,perty in one's own house is safc- qualities most sought after by young we found that several leading per-roomy, and tolerably women. They tend to make frills sonalities in this world of Russian although many improvements in the guarded by the Sunlin Constitution. surprising that such an essential link
Recently at the Royal Geo-) was International and he cultivated Our way of central heating and plumbing In the country many people do, in should be missing.
the acquaintance of persons eminent compensate for indifferent cutting, fashion had been to America.
fact, own their houses.
graphical Society, London, a herself an American still remain to be installed.
for their geography and maritime and wear coloured ankle socks with guide
meeting was held to: com-history and maintained a correspon their asurt shoeя, Flat-heeled, Jewess of Russian origin.
Humbler professional workers live In the towns flat dwellers can- In one room, which may be quite not own the building in which they AND so the British Government memorate the centenary of the dence with celebrated Continental cosy, but is nearly always dingy, live, but the rights of occuplers ara
proposes to send out a trades Hakluyt Society, formed 100 geographers like Oriellus and Mer- In the absence of paint and protected by the law.
union expert to explore the question years ago to honour the great
In compiling his works lie was Kay Oakman, who was a member MEN'S clothes were the most out-materials it is impossible for most
The five-year plan for the years of, trade unionism in the Colony: Elizabethan, Richard Hakluyt, of my slaff in Moscow, says they are of-date in style. Almost all the of them to have any definite rcheme
he, was always able to count on help with a jacket of colour or furnishing.
1040-1950 provides for the sale of Imaging he will receive a shock if at who was one of the greatest assisted by Sir Walter Raleigh, and of his individual "at the stage of fashion evolution suits were
dwelling houses
from, the; great navigators" to approaches associated
the question from the geographers of his age. with the square Juce fathered across the back at waist!
Many rooms are so small that the workers on the basin of long-term
Ume. But it was for others to berthe collar and clock stockings." level. Materials were poor, and we
He gave the first lecture on geo- Hati are rare, and there are few found that an effort had been made bed, invariably spotlessly clean, do- credit from the State in order to angle of Chinese employers.
minates the room. Pillows are often organise permanent endres for in-
Generally speaking, on eight-hour graphy over to be heard in England, women in Moscow who can carry off to produce garments which could be decorated with satin bows in the dustry" or,
at Oxford in 1577. Inspired In other words, 10 daytime. The Russians, like most diminish labour turnover.
day is practically unknown other youth by that vorce in the Pealms a smart hat, The penalty for failure made in surplus uniform material.
Evening dress a now compulsory peasant peoples, love lace pillow
than with foreign employers. Shop which speaks of "those who go down for assistants work from dawn to the The plan further provides
to the rea in ships, and encouraged at the big official receptions, and all lips. the highly placed women had new |·
using the "savings of workers and hours of darkness, although it is nd-by tales of strange lands, he decided intellectuals for the construction of mitted that thousands of them are thot geography should be his mission evening dresses made towards
their own houses,"
million provided with food and bed space. in life.. square yards of prefabricated dwel- The difference between the scale of JUE "gocioły lady" oxisis in Soviet
wages between the employees of The Now World and its possibil tholing houses are to be constructed.
foreign : flrma and Chinese firma la ties never ceased fascinate him,The newly-formed Covent Garden Russia only in an embryo form, disappointed when Mrs Churchill, on Russians keep their clothes, their
But housing has not received first also believed to be considerable, and in 1880 ho-published "The Frin opera opened on January 14 with but there are young woment who her visit to the Soviet Union, wore houses, and their bodies with so contrive to do extraordinarily little nothing but Red Cross uniform so 11tile soap and hot water, although priority in the new five-year plan, lowever, it is to be presumed that cipal Navigations, Voyages and Dis- Bizet's. "Carmen.".
when the investigator does arrive, he coveries of the English Nation", The Australian tenor, Kenneth work and to spend most of their ro- that there was no occasion for a dis-the excellent public baths certainly and the crowded conditions will re-
will be told where to start. sources on 'having a good time,
main for many years.
While an ardent patriot, his outlook Neate, sang the part of Don Jord.. help. play of evening dress.
"senalble" shors are most unpopular
with the girls; they like shoes with
high heels and as brightly coloured
as possible,
is to be followed round by Jeering children.
THE
"Society Lady"
was
Men's Clothes
mado
end of the war.
tho
Cleanliness
I have been told that they were is astonishing bow clean
r
Four
cator.
by sailing the seast was bla mis- engage in the industry of navigation sion to encourage the art of naviga→ tion by writing about if
Australian Tenor
Page 5Page 6
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